Whats the best way to insulate your your engine bay?

[LuckyWinner]

Been looking at heat shields that I could put on the firewall and on footbox where the headers are. Cant really find anything that would work and look good. Just thought it would be nice to try to stop the heat before it got to the aluminum. Then still use a insulation under the carpet. Any thoughts? I was thinking about stand-off plate out of stainless (a good thermal insulator compared to steel and aluminum), maybe 3/8" off the foot box.

[skullandbones]

Hey Luckywinner,

Here is a build site that shows heat sheilds like you are describing but out of alum. I'm sure you could fab them from SS. I think "dallas" has templates for them. It's a real nice build with a flip front end. I think you were on that thread about body work.

FFR 7123 tilt front, Levy 5link/wilwoods/LCA's.
Build blog: www.myersfamilyffrbuild.blogspot.com

I will be doing pics pretty soon to show what I am doing on the other side of the alum. See you later, WEK.

[jlfernan]

All I have is just the insulation under the carpet and there is no appreciable heat coming through.

[efnfast]

I have no insulation anywhere (aluminum or under carpet) and I don't have any noticeable problems w/ heat.

[Someday I Suppose]

Insulated on the driver side as well here. The biggest issue I had with heat was what came around the foot boxes before I got some copper pipe insulation and stuck it up between the body and the sides of the footbox. :-)

[Jeff Kleiner]

I have no insulation anywhere (aluminum or under carpet) and I don't have any noticeable problems w/ heat.

Well yeah, but you live up there at the north pole where penguins in the road are a bigger problem than heat in the cockpit

Jeff

[cobrajj]

I covered the engine bay and footbox aluminum panels with Thermo Tec reflecting insulation then mounted 6" x 12"SS sheets w/ 3/8" spacers to provide an air gap. Positioned the panels next to where the headers run near the footboxes. Used 3/16" EZ Cool insulation under the carpeting. Easier to do before the engine goes in.

[Bob Cowan]

I painted on Lizard Skin under the carpeting. I also have an air vent in the upper portion of the elephant ears. Between those two simple things, heat in the foot box is just not an issue. And it can get pretty darned hot around here; road surface temps of 145* are not uncommon.

[PhoneGUy]

Has anyone used the koolmat product? I have read their marketing material and it looks like this is one of the best solutions for heat and noise. It also appears to be fairly dense in thickness so I don't think it will take up any much needed foot room in the foot box's.

[Sailor]

What about fabricating fiberglass or kevlar panels the shape of the aluminum? I saw a 2011 Hemi Challenger that used kevlar tubing in the intake system to prevent heat transfer to the intake air. The same principle could be used here. I've seen a few dashes and tranny tunnels etc covered in it. Same idea, pretty cool look on the inside too. A spacer and rivets would hold it in place. A REALLY crafty person could probably fab up an insert that slips in in one or a few pieces for a nice clean look. Very little heat transfer. They're light weight and could be painted to match, contrast or accentuate the engine bay or painted a chrome, polished aluminum or copper colour.

Daniel

[Snakely]

Is Kevlar similar to sheets of Carbon Fiber? (in its heat distribution properties that is)

[AC Bill]

I bought a piece of aluminum, measured, cut and bent it to use at the front of the footbox. Using screws and nuts and aluminum tubing for spacers, I mounted it so that it not only added a heat deflector for my feet, but my rear brake line as well. The panel also runs under the front part of the foot box floor, back to the cross frame, as added protection from road debris. Inexpensive, and a very simple mod to do.

[Sailor]

Snakely, I don't know. I do know they used it in the Challenger so the engine bay heat wouldn't be transmitted to the intake air as it passed through a metal hose. If it doesn't transmit heat and isn't ruined by intense heat, I see no reason why it couldn't be used. Fiberglass sheets, kevlar or carbon fiber sheets could be used I would imagine. Unless there's an issue with the heat. The body, hood etc is already fiberglass though so it couldn't be that big of an issue. Just make up some fiberglass panels using fiberglass cloth, epoxy, hardener and a sheet of glass for a smooth surface.

[skullandbones]

I know from experience that Kevlar (sail material) has always been expensive as well as carbon fiber. I believe the dense rubber alum backed materials for heat/sound dampening are far more economical and easy to apply. Stick it and forget it! The stuff I used sticks to every thing including skin.

I really like the SS panels AC Bill and using for a dual purpose was clever. Thanks for the ideas. WEK.

[Sailor]

True they are expensive but fiberglass isn't all that expensive in the grand scheme of things. There are, as I mentioned a number of roadsters with Carbon fiber dash etc so it's doeable I think. If that's what you're after. Not sure what I'd do to keep heat down, plumb your AC to the engine compartment!

[BigLeo69]

got plenty of pics in my garage and in my profile album on ffcars, i would post them here but i seem to always have difficulty doing it, so i give up.
i used the kevlar on the outer footbox and sandwiched aluminum 1/8" on the outer shell, i also cut my drivers up and modified it.

[Cameron Autosports]

All you need is Dynamat Extreme inside all the foot boxes, behind the firewall, and on the tunnel. That will keep all the heat out. I do all of the passenger compartment including the rear bulkhead which keeps down all the noise and heat. It will cost about $450.00 to do all this, but I wouldn't build a car without it.

[dallas_]

I have no insulation anywhere (aluminum or under carpet) and I don't have any noticeable problems w/ heat.

Yeah, Alex, but you have those super duper ceramic headers that don't heat up, so you don't count.

[timp2]

I used the Koolmat roadster kit from Breeze # 35322, inside under the carpet and #35314, also from breeze in areas in close proximity to the headers on the outside of the footboxes. Below is a copy of the ad in Breeze's online catalog

If you have already installed your carpeting but have found you need to reduce the temperature of your foot boxes or transmission tunnel, this is the product for you. This product is made of 3 layers. Facing the heat source is a diamond embossed 10ml thick aluminum. This is designed to reflect radiant heat. A bonded 3/16" thick layer of high density fiberglass insulation comes next to protect against conductive heat. The third layer is pressure sensitive adhesive for easy installation. This is a 42" by 48" rectangle (14 square feet) of material that is shipped rolled up. You make your own patterns to cover the area desired and cut with scissors or a sharp blade.

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