Check your control arm lengths. I seem to recall having similar contact at first, so I had to adjust the links (I think it was the upper trailing link). The knuckle moves around quite a bit with small changes in control arm length.
The upper trailing link adjustment is what sets rear castor. As discussed here previously by Sgt Gator and others, that adjustment is critical to corner stability and erratic oversteer.
Basically the lateral link outer pivots must be pitch-matched to the inner (chassis) pivots.
I do not know how that will affect your interference issue.
jim
Thank you Santiago and Jim! This is the first time I have had a 4 link suspension and full adjustability so kind of a brain fart for not realizing this. A quick adjustment to the top link provides the clearance needed . I will have to make sure they match as previously mentioned especially when I get to aligning it.
I am using the upper shock mounts for the R ride height, but I did read some noted this may not be the best place to achieve a ride height of 3.5-4.0". So I will have to see how it works once I get it on some wheels and then if needed I can use the lower S holes if I need more adjustability. For now the rear suspension is complete and torqued down. Aligning this is going to be quite a project with how many different links can be adjusted! IMG_0103[1].jpgIMG_0105[1].jpg
Next up is to finish mounting my seat and possibly compressing the steering column a couple inches. The Holley hydramat I ordered is on back order until the end of Feb so that is a bummer. My fuel tank has an extra 1.3125" hole in it and FFR mentioned this is for a roll over / fuel vent. However, there is no mention of this in the manual nor 818R supplemental instructions, but FFR said they are going to send me the valve. Guess I will see what it looks like when I get it. I had a hard time finding something that large of a diameter on my own.
Did you ever get an answer on the dead pedals? I have a question going with FFR, but not resolved yet.
They supplied the S version, shown below in color. It's not the same as the R, as shown in b&w. Dead pedal S.jpg Lt R foot rest.jpg
Yes I contacted them and told FFR they needed to provided both (L/R) dead pedals. I was not going to adapt the S ones to fit especially since I ordered the R kit. I received them a couple months back and have them installed now. I am not installing any of the S interior aluminum either but the R dead pedals help with this. IMG_0155.jpg
It feels like slow progress, but I actually got a lot done in the last few weeks. I was able to the driver's seat mounted and the steering column installed. I have to shorten the column by 0.25-0.5" to get the bolt relief to align with the steering coupler. It was a lot easier to compress the column than I had thought and actually had to pull some back out. The NRG short hub and steering wheel look pretty good too.
For the seat I went with an NRG FRP-302 Plasma fixed back seat. In order to get the seat to sit on the frame I decided to flip the brackets out. However, on the inner side this hit the anchor for the harness so I had to notch that side. To keep the seat in place I found some McMaster weld on nut plates that worked out quite well. I also got flanged bolts to come up through the bottom to secure the seat to the nut plates. I will have to add clearance holes in the aluminum floor panel. Drilling straight holes using a hand drill, laying on the ground, and on my side from underneath proved much harder than I thought . Not to mention then to get all 4 holes to line up with the holes on the seat...took some minor adjustments. I dropped the VCP shifter onto the tunnel at the 24.5" the manual calls out and this actually felt like a good spot for me.
One issue I had been ignoring since I got my kit was the terrible popping noises from both driver and passenger's side due to oil canning. I did not want to ruin the white powdercoat, but something needed to be done. I tried the propane torch method but that just burned a bunch of holes and kind of warped the panel. I then switch and ran beads in the affected area which seemed to work. It is not perfect, but there is no more popping even with my full weight on it. The process made a mess, but with some paint it all seems to cover up decently well. I have some orange peeling on the panels so I need to address that or I could cover it with traction stripes or something.
Creating the brake and clutch lines was a bit more tedious than I had expected. It took some practice to get the hang of the harbor freight tube bender and laying out where I wanted all of the lines to run. A couple things are different since I am using Cadillac calipers at all 4 corners and the Wilwood pedal box. This is a track focused built, but I also want it to be streetable so this required some form of a parking brake. Since I am not using rear WRX calipers I am not using the emergency brake cables either. Instead I implemented a rear brake line lock after doing some research. I saw this topic in this forum but I never got a response from anyone if they got it to work legally. So I will take the plunge and see how it will pan out. I also looked into electric parking brakes or even an additional hydraulic caliper to act as the emergency/parking brake.
The lines I created are decent but probably not the most elegant. I had to buy an additional 25 feet of tubing for the special lines I created and to replace the several lines I messed up .
For the front lines I have them connecting to the first MC. From reading the 818 assembly tips and tricks I had previously installed the front rear inner splash guards and I am sure glad I did. I cut a hole to read each SS line through and mounted the tab on the inside of front bay. This would have been a bigger pain if I did not have these installed already.
The rear line connects to the middle (or 2nd) MC and then runs down through the center console and exits behind the driver and the fuel tank. At the end of the center console supports is where I found the Line Lock felt best given my seating position. The line routing here is not the prettiest because I realized after I mounted the line lock I had the inlet facing aft and the outlet facing forward. So I had to route the tube around the line lick instead of directly to it. I then routed the line down around the fuel tank and out the left rear corner. Once it exited and was behind the rear firewall this is where I inserted the T to split the 2 rear calipers. I ran the right line at the bottom of my rear firewall and then down the frame. I mounted both brake line tabs pretty high because I wanted to make sure at full compression the suspension will not touch the SS brake lines. You can see this in the lower pictures.
The clutch line connects to the 3rd outer MC and runs down the left side of the car on the outside of the intrusion panel. I took a style page from Hobby Racer and used carbon fiber wrap on the inside of these panels. I will wrap the rest of the interior aluminum panels so more to see later on this. I deviated from the manual and ran the clutch line up the side of the motor and connected it to a SS brake line which then connects to the clutch slave cylinder.
Lastly, I decided to use a Tilton 3-way remote reservoir instead of the 2 Wilwood reservoir provided in the pedal kit. Since I also got the wiper kit I saw a post in the forum the Tilton reservoir needs to be offset to account for this. I need to look at the install instructions again to see what I need to do for the hose from the reservoir to the MCs. I assume these lines should be as straight at possible and not have any loops or large dips. Is this true?
I am starting to figure how I need to modify the fuel pump hanger to use the Holley Hydramat. The fuel sub level sensor float sits under the fuel pump hanger and then the hydramat where I positioned it sits right under the fuel pump level sender. I am going to cut off the bottom of the fuel pump hanger and move it up to clear the fuel sub level sensor float. I will then mount the fuel pump off to the side and then bend the fuel pump float to clear the hydramat.
Again am taking notes from Hobby Racer here and then adding fuel foam blocks to help with sloshing. I will try this out first and decide if a surge tank is really needed down the road.
Question: Does the fuel temp sensor need to be as low as possible? Or can I move it up higher? Bottom black sensor on the back of the hanger.
I cut off a couple inches of the fuel hanger to see how I can clear both floats and fit the hydramat in the FFR gen 2 tank nicely. In the first picture you can see where the floats rest initially and how close they are. The FFR tank is shorter than an OEM WRX tank so the floats are both raised a bit when they are installed. I am not sure how this will affect the fuel gauge readings. I am trying to figure out how to make it all fit. I started to bend the fuel pump float arm to the left in the picture to try and give some space. I suppose I can do the same to the sub fuel level float on the right since this one is right under the fuel pump hanger. Any recommendations would be appreciated!
I apologize the first two pictures are upside down. I could only get a picture through the small vent hole at the top of the tank.
Can the fuel pump float (right one) rest on top of the hydramat?
The float rheostat has a full and empty position that is communicated to the gauge.
The task is to make it agree with your actual fuel levels.
The original float travel is greater than your 818 tank, so to reduce travel to match the new tank the float rod must have a shorter swing. (shorter radius)
With the rheostat at full down, bend the float rod so the float is on the bottom of the tank.
With the rheostat at full up, bend the float rod so that the float is at the top of the tank.
A compromise may be required.
jim
Can the fuel pump float (right one) rest on top of the hydramat?
Yes, mine does and it does not effect anything.
Originally Posted by J R Jones
With the rheostat at full down, bend the float rod so the float is on the bottom of the tank.
With the rheostat at full up, bend the float rod so that the float is at the top of the tank.
A compromise may be required.
jim
One more thing, if the float is on a pivot, the pivot shaft segment should be laterally perpendicular to the swing arm(rod). Like the letter "T" sweeping on it's base.
jim
Is this the best location for the coolant overflow tank or is there a better spot? I was planning to put my ethanol sensor in this same position but I could move it to my rear firewall if necessary. Coolant Overflow Location.PNG
I can't remember what the stock body panel looks like anymore (I cut mine up long ago) but it might be hard to fill right there. I moved mine up to the angled bar in front of it.
Mounted mine where yours is and the battery behind the firewall. I have a front mounted fuel tank, so moved some things around. Fabricated a simple bracket to support the bottom.
Is this the best location for the coolant overflow tank or is there a better spot? I was planning to put my ethanol sensor in this same position but I could move it to my rear firewall if necessary. Coolant Overflow Location.PNG
I left mine in the OEM location on the radiator. Means some long lines to the front of the car, but less clutter in the engine compartment, and has appeared to work fine.
I left mine in the OEM location on the radiator. Means some long lines to the front of the car, but less clutter in the engine compartment, and has appeared to work fine.
I think getting the air out would be much harder with the overflow tank up front, because it won't be the high point anymore.
I too left my OEM overflow up front in the stock location. We basically have two major high points in the car, assuming your front to rear transfer tubes run toward the bottom of the frame. The top of the radiator is a good two feet above my transfer tubes and the top of the engine is again a good 2 plus feet. I opted for a 16lb cap on the radiator and a 20lc cap on the pressurized reservoir on top of the engine. I get good circulation and any major air bubble up front vent first to the overflow. In theory, the pressurized reservoir cap should never unseat and vent. After filling and purging the system I just check the level in the overflow and adjust as necessary (it raises and lowers as one would expect with thermal expansion) and the rear cap I top off as air makes it up there and the level drops. I don't have the most mileage on the setup, but do have an entire day at VIR's track on it without any cooling issues.
On a side note, I ditched every bit of that corrugated flexible metal tube FFR provides. Getting the air out of that stuff is essentially impossible. Every corrugation holds a large bubble times a billion corrugations. Overtime it will come out I suppose, but I do not have the patience for that. They are hard to seal as well. I found some long rubber tubes for like $9 bucks at Rock Auto and cutting sections out of them with the proper bends and lengths was surprisingly easy. Different portions of one part number basically handled all four corners, think I only have 1 or maybe two couplers up front for the long intersing journey from the foot wells to the and bottom of the radiator.. Could dig up the part number if anyone is interested.
On a side note, I ditched every bit of that corrugated flexible metal tube FFR provides. Getting the air out of that stuff is essentially impossible. Every corrugation holds a large bubble times a billion corrugations. Overtime it will come out I suppose, but I do not have the patience for that. They are hard to seal as well. I found some long rubber tubes for like $9 bucks at Rock Auto and cutting sections out of them with the proper bends and lengths was surprisingly easy. Different portions of one part number basically handled all four corners, think I only have 1 or maybe two couplers up front for the long intersing journey from the foot wells to the and bottom of the radiator.. Could dig up the part number if anyone is interested.
Can you share the part number(s)? I just installed the corrugated tubes on the water pump and the coolant cross over pipe. I am not sure I have the budget for the Boig tubes but longer rubber hoses I could swing. I was thinking the corrugated tubes may cause some issue, but then others use them.
Not sure what I am going to do at the end with all of the left over unused FFR parts stacking up
Can you share the part number(s)? I just installed the corrugated tubes on the water pump and the coolant cross over pipe. I am not sure I have the budget for the Boig tubes but longer rubber hoses I could swing. I was thinking the corrugated tubes may cause some issue, but then others use them.
Not sure what I am going to do at the end with all of the left over unused FFR parts stacking up
Sure.
I will start off by saying that I don't mean to hi-jack a thread, just want to help fellow builders. Also, that I apparently lied about the cost. I think it really works if you keep telling yourself that you aren't spending that much What I can say is that I started out by selecting off the wall of hoses at autoparts stores and they charge a fortune. I looked them up at Rockauto and they were like 1/4 the cost.
I was able to get a single hose section to come from the side tube on the car to come around the corner, up and over the filler gas tube, and onto the water pump with all the right bends and kinks. I was also able to find the right section to do the same on the discharge at the top of the engine to the other side pipe. Up front on the passenger side that goes to the top of the radiator (basically the stock Subi radiator geometry) I came off the side of the car and shorterted through the corner as FFR suggest and pocket out into the 'battery compartment area' at the correct angle. I used the straight aluminum connector here and the other (I think the part number I order 4 of) went all the way tot he top of the radiator. On the driver's side I came from the side, short cut the corner again and came out at the correct angle again. This one needed a very tight bend to get up and over the frame and then back down to the radiator. I included a couple picks below that show the front. End result was nice smooth plumbing for the entire loop and it was WAY cheaper than those prefab tubes. I believe I talked with them and they wanted a LOT of money and were not interested in any negotiation.
Hope it helps someone. For what it is worth, I do not currently have the Wayne cooling mod (tap in the crossover tube) installed. Incidentally, I do have a body installed now. I am surprised at the difficulty in getting air out of the engine and I am sure the mod makes that easier, but with a bit of patience I was fine. I actually let a lot of air out of the hose to crossover connection where that mod goes so it makes sense. I was just nervous about tapping that tube, I know of bunch of you guys are running it successfully.
Well after a 2 week set back I am now back to moving forward. I realized I had installed the rear Cadillac brake caliper brackets on the wrong side even though they are marked left and right . I thought they did not look right initially and then learned the hard way when I went to install the caliper and rotor to find everything ran into each other.
So I had to pull out the hubs, repack the bearings, flip the brackets, and press everything back together. Thankfully I was able to salvage the bearings or at least I think I did. They spin freely and I do not hear any grinding. However, when I went to install the calipers they contacted the rotor, but in different places left vs right. The bearings were seated as far as they would go and I even tried pulling them back out slightly to get the clearance needed. The left side the caliper contacted the inner rotor and the right side caliper contacted the outer rotor. So to me this seemed like an assembly tolerance stack up issue with the bearings, hubs, and brackets I have. So I took each caliper and removed 1mm of material from the contacting surface. Now I have at least 1mm of clearance to the inside of the rotor on both sides. The outer side of the rotor has more and this matches what I have on the front. The final test will be to install the pads and bleed the system to make sure there are no issues. I forgot to take a picture of the inside of the calipers with the material removed. Now I am able to install the calipers and rotors on the rear.
Next up is to run the fuel lines and complete the cooling system. I ordered the radiator hoses Justin mentioned so thank you! I will use those instead of the corrugated hose.
Well after a 2 week set back I am now back to moving forward. I realized I had installed the rear Cadillac brake caliper brackets on the wrong side even though they are marked left and right . I thought they did not look right initially and then learned the hard way when I went to install the caliper and rotor to find everything ran into each other.
If you get the right size stock (socket, old bearing race, etc) and make sure to press on the right areas they come apart without issue. I have had mine apart 2-3 times after the initial press together. Just need to be carful with the seals.
So I had to pull out the hubs, repack the bearings, flip the brackets, and press everything back together. Thankfully I was able to salvage the bearings or at least I think I did. They spin freely and I do not hear any grinding. However, when I went to install the calipers they contacted the rotor, but in different places left vs right. The bearings were seated as far as they would go and I even tried pulling them back out slightly to get the clearance needed. The left side the caliper contacted the inner rotor and the right side caliper contacted the outer rotor. So to me this seemed like an assembly tolerance stack up issue with the bearings, hubs, and brackets I have. So I took each caliper and removed 1mm of material from the contacting surface. Now I have at least 1mm of clearance to the inside of the rotor on both sides. The outer side of the rotor has more and this matches what I have on the front. The final test will be to install the pads and bleed the system to make sure there are no issues. I forgot to take a picture of the inside of the calipers with the material removed. Now I am able to install the calipers and rotors on the rear.
This is a bit aggravating I would say. So as you know I went the STI route and had to make my own brackets and they came out pretty decent. I do run a wheel spacer on the outside rear to clearance the wheel/tire and the lower trailing arm. Up front however, I have that Cadillac kit that is commercially available. I was very displeased to find that there were alignment issues as you described in the rear. Ultimately I am running a very narrow spacer (would have to measure it again to get the size) inside the rotor and then another small spacer outside the rotor to clearance the wheel and caliper. For a guy who generally HATES wheel spacers it is a bit troubling to have 6 on my car. I see no issues other than being a pain as I too have the loner ARP studs. I just have to be careful with the wheels up front as the centering function on the hub is compromised with the stack of spacers and rotor. It still centers, but doesn't 'hop' into position as it would otherwise.
Not sure what you mean with your "pulling the bearing back out slightly" comment. You are going to need to make sure all bearings are FULLY seated into the knuckles and on the hubs. The axle nuts preload those bears for proper operation. If they are not seated when you start out, they will be soon at the expense of your nut torque and preload. The next thing to happen will be bearing failure.
Next up is to run the fuel lines and complete the cooling system. I ordered the radiator hoses Justin mentioned so thank you! I will use those instead of the corrugated hose.
Cool (no pun intended ) Let me know if you need any more detailed pics. I used the band clamps with the T nuts in them. They are very nice and don't mar the hoses, got those from Speedway as well. They aren't cheap unfortunately. You'll end up with a nice little grocery bag of cut offs. PVC tubing cutter work really well on the hoses. I think you can get those at Harbor Freight for probably $5 if you don't have a cutting solution.
I know I am going to have to run wheel spacers on the front and rear to be able to fit 18x8 +35-38 up front and 18x9.5 +35-38 in the rear. The one advantage you have of the STI hubs is the 5x114 bolt pattern which opens up so many more wheel options than the 5x100 pattern of the WRX. I purchased the kit from CTSV Brake Swap for the fronts which did come with a little spacer between the rotor and the hub, but then there will be another one as you mention to space out the wheel.
I left out some of the steps out on the rear because it was kind of a long story. The first time I ever pressed in the rear bearings in I felt like it I over did it because it did not spin very freely. So this go around I did not press them in all the way and figured I would use the 160 ft-lb torque on the axle nut to get them to the correct spot. In doing so I got the left rear to go in a lot and the right rear not so much. So this is when I pulled the left rear bearing back out about half way, but I did then compress it again with the wheel bearing press kit. So the bearing was seated before I put everything back together. When I pulled the bearing out I did notice it started to flop around which concerned me so I pressed it back in until it was fully seated. I pulled the inner seals and checked both sides to make sure the hub shaft was just shy of being flush with the inner most surface of the inner bearing on each side. I thought I had the wrong rotors or something since I was having alignment issues and the odd this was it was a different contact problem left rear vs right rear. I did think about needing a spacer but I needed one to push one side outward but then the other side I needed a negative spacer. So this is why I thought the easiest approach was to shave down the caliper by 1mm in the offending areas. I will see if I can get a picture of one of the pads I shaved for reference.
I might take you up on your picture offer for the radiator hose routing after I did into it. I used a hack saw the first time to cut the hoses which was not too difficult but I frequent HF so I will look there too. My tooling budget has exploded on this build
Not sure why the reply with quote option didn't work...
What 18" performance/competition tire are you planning to fit up front? I've spent a huge amount of time looking at tires and there's no 18" competition tire that I'm aware of that will fit. The main issue is finding any tires that are less than 24" in diameter. You can go from 24" to 24.4" diameters but they all rub and limit how far you can turn the steering wheel.
I have been planning to start with Falken Azenis RT660 tires. I have read the front is rather tight so I could drop down to a 17x8 wheel in the front. I was looking at the RT660 and the difference in diameter between the R17 and R18 was small so I thought it would not nice to keep both front and rears the same at 18". I am glad to hear your input before I make any purchases. I do not have any experience running on slicks so that would have to be some to look into down the road.
Front: The RT660 215/40/17 fits the front. The 235/40/17 will probably rub.
Rear: I have the RT660 275/35/18 that works with the right wheels (18 x 9.5 +38).
Toyo Proxes R1R: I have them in 17" on the same size wheels for Front and Rear.
Front: 245/35/17
Rear: 255/40/17
Both Front & Rear on Konig Dekagram 17” x 9” +40
I have fender flares now front & rear so YMMV!
"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
Owner: Colonel Red Racing
eBAy Store: http://stores.ebay.com/colonelredracing
818R ICSCC SPM
2005 Subaru STI Race Car ICSCC ST and SPM
Palatov DP4 - ICSCC Sports Racer
I have the Toyo Proxy R1R in a 255 35 18 on the rear.
Not sure if it's the new first time on a track R1R tires or the first time on Thunderhill West because I did both for the first time together. My rear fender splash guards got damaged running over curbs like never before. I suspect the Dorito Corner which wasn't even a violent hit. First the left side running CCW then the right side running CW the next day. Look close a the picture and you can see it. I'm in the process of making the splash guards 1.5" taller. Another item on the list of things needed to turn a 818S into a track car. thill 3-20-22.jpg
I did my research on tires before settling on the R1R. They seemed wonderful on the track including one session in the rain. They feel great on the street. Then, just the other day, Grassroots Motorsports did a 200tw tire review and the R1R came in a resounding last place. At least now I have an excuse...
I run the R1Rs as my rain tire. And Test & Tune as well. A lot cheaper than burning up A7s.
"Good Judgement comes from Experience. Experience comes from Bad Judgement"
Owner: Colonel Red Racing
eBAy Store: http://stores.ebay.com/colonelredracing
818R ICSCC SPM
2005 Subaru STI Race Car ICSCC ST and SPM
Palatov DP4 - ICSCC Sports Racer
I just dropped the radiator in and noticed I will need to raise it which is not a new issue. I have seen custom parts from Rori or Chad Plavan used a FFR shifter bushing to raise the radiator. Does anyone know what bushing Chad added on top of the lower radiator bushings? This seems like a simple fix rather than machining up some spacers. What have others done to raise their radiators?
Seems like 0.8" is about the right offset needed which is just above the lower radiator bushing. I have been looking at rubber bushing on McMaster to try and come up with a solution.
I used 3 flat washers. I actually just threw a little JB Weld on them on the last assembly so they behave as a single unit and I don’t have to restack them. This was just enough to get the lower radiator hose off the steering rack bellows. I will further note that if you have a stock radiator at least from an 04 STI vintage you will likely have an issue with the hood hitting the radiator cap, especially if you go higher than I just suggested. The hood was touching my cap. I inadvertently destroyed my radiator attempting to slim it down when I was ducting it in. The result was finding the Megan Racing all aluminum direct drop in. It was surprisingly cheap and the radiator cap was significantly lower and clears the hood by 3/4” of an inch. Still using the 3 washers to clear the steering rack. I guess I should also note that I mounted the radiator as FFR suggested, but the OEM brackets did not quite work anymore so I fabbed some new aluminum ones.
I now own Chad’s car. Let me know if you need me to measure something.
Yes I did know that sorry I should have directed the question to you. Do you know what bushing or combination of bushings you have for your lower radiator mounts?
Originally Posted by jforand
I used 3 flat washers. I actually just threw a little JB Weld on them on the last assembly so they behave as a single unit and I don’t have to restack them. This was just enough to get the lower radiator hose off the steering rack bellows. I will further note that if you have a stock radiator at least from an 04 STI vintage you will likely have an issue with the hood hitting the radiator cap, especially if you go higher than I just suggested. The hood was touching my cap. I inadvertently destroyed my radiator attempting to slim it down when I was ducting it in. The result was finding the Megan Racing all aluminum direct drop in. It was surprisingly cheap and the radiator cap was significantly lower and clears the hood by 3/4” of an inch. Still using the 3 washers to clear the steering rack. I guess I should also note that I mounted the radiator as FFR suggested, but the OEM brackets did not quite work anymore so I fabbed some new aluminum ones.
Interesting. Do you have any rubber isolation on the bottom with the washer stack? How much did you raise yours. I have a CSF radiator and am looking to raise it 1”. I have been looking on McMaster at rubber threaded-stud mounts to make my own bushings.
Interesting. Do you have any rubber isolation on the bottom with the washer stack? How much did you raise yours. I have a CSF radiator and am looking to raise it 1”. I have been looking on McMaster at rubber threaded-stud mounts to make my own bushings.
Yes, I pretty much went the direction FFR recommended here so I have the OEM rubber bushings popped into the FFR provided mounts. One pic is looking down into the radiator compartment and the send in looking into the radiator compartment through the front grill opening. Those are the two hood vent up top. Both pics are obviously missing the actual radiator. The radiator has aluminum posts that stick down into the rubber grommets. They were plenty long enough to deal with the ~1/4" of stacked washers.
This is the situation at the top. I again tried to do the FFR method and had originally used the OEM brackets and had a rivnut in the front side of the bar. In the present world the radiator was a bit taller and the OEM brackets were quite working. I first made the one in my hand that used the same rivenut to mount. They were horribly inadequate and too flexible. The final iteration is the one on the car in the second pic (and background of the first). Very solid and utilizes two new rivnuts on the top of the bar. They both reutilized the OEM rubber bushing for the post mount. Conveniently, I now use the previous rivnut to hold a screen to protect the radiator.
Thanks: 
Likes: 
Originally Posted by Santiago
Reply With Quote
. I will have to make sure they match as previously mentioned especially when I get to aligning it.
. Not to mention then to get all 4 holes to line up with the holes on the seat...took some minor adjustments. I dropped the VCP shifter onto the tunnel at the 24.5" the manual calls out and this actually felt like a good spot for me.
