Brandon's 818R Build

[J R Jones]

My low hood profile requires a laid-back-top radiator. I integrated the FFR lower brackets and Subaru isolators into the front body mounts and fabricated "dog bone" upper mounts, again using the Subaru isolators. The clamp ends are adjustable which makes installation easier.
jim

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rad support.JPG

[blomb11]

Okay cool and I like the brackets! I will try and mod the OEM brackets to try and make them work before making new ones after I figure out the lower mounts.

The radiator ducting looks like quite the challenge…should be fun down the road.

[blomb11]

@JR I am curious to see your custom body since it seems like you have completely redone it.

[J R Jones]

@JR I am curious to see your custom body since it seems like you have completely redone it.

blomb, redone or redo is not my agenda. This project started as a VW powered replica of a Ferrari Dino made by a Karma in CA. They were sued by Ferrari and production was limited.
I pulled the body off and sold the VW rolling chassis. I gutted the body to go on a Toyota MR2 chassis and then found the FFR 818.
I bought an unfinished 2014 kit, I am the third owner. I sold the body and trim. I will sell the engine too, I prefer the Acura V6 normally asperated at ~300hp; it is similar or less weight than the H4.
Since the VW pan had limited structure the Dino body is very stout. It is a hand laid cloth unitized body, one piece with doors and hoods.
To drop the body on the 818 chassis, external stuff like the roll bar, door mounts, front and rear mounts had to go.
The Karma design strayed from Dino authenticity, and I have corrected that.
I predict that the Dino will be somewhat heavier than an 818 but the body adds to the structure, The aerodynamics will be better with no turbo plumbing or intake issues.
Styling is subjective; I have always liked the Dino and I do not care for the 818 styling.
jim

[blomb11]

I am getting ready to begin installing the AWIC I got from ZeroDB and I have some questions about the plumbing. I plan to run distilled water and not coolant. I have been planning to run my lines according to what Bob did below and add the two 1/4" hose barbs in the side of the intercooler. Dumb question, but I want to verify I do need to have an expansion tank, the bleeder line, and the fill line as Bob has it correct? I want to confirm this before I drill into the side of the intercooler. And then I just cap the bleeder port on the heat exchanger in the front since this is not the highest point in the system? This makes sense but a confirmation would be even better.

My AWIC System in NON-Pressurized. I will start at my bosch pump, located at the bottom of the firewall, in front of the right rear wheel. It is down low in the system to make it self priming.
Out of the pump, I ran a 3/4" hose to bottom port on a sirocco radiator in the front of the car. Keeping the hose even with the bottom of the car the best I could.
I went into the bottom port of the radiator so the pump would push any air out the top radiator hose. That 3/4" radiator hose runs back (right side) to the AWIC cooler on the engine.
The output of the AWIC cooler runs down to the input of the bosch pump.

To get any air out of the system, I have 2 small 1/4" hoses connect to the AWIC cooler. One at the high point and on at the lowest point. Then I have a 1-quart reservoir tank mounted a little higher than the AWIC Cooler.
Top of cooler goes to top of the tank to take any air out of the system. The bottom of the tank goes to the bottom of AWIC cooler to replenish fluid. I run standard antifreeze solution to prevent freezing and corrosion.

Do not connect awic system to the engine coolant system. The engine system is around 200 degrees. The awic is below 100 degrees.

Attachment 126736 Attachment 126737 Attachment 126738 Attachment 126739

[fletch]

I modeled my install after Bob's as well. Follow his guidance and you won't go wrong. Yes, you'll need a non-pressurized fill tank with two lines to the AWIC core - one from the bottom of the fill tank to the lower section of the AWIC core, one from the top of the AWIC core to the top of the fill tank. Because the system is non-pressurized, the fluid in the AWIC core and in the tank will find the same level. Yes, cap the top of the front heat exchanger. Sounds like you've got this all understood but post back if you've still got questions.

[idf]

I used a different approach to get the AWC tank fill higher than the tank using some aluminum pipe fittings, AWIC.jpg
I think the tank is full based on coolant visible at the fill cap which is higher than the tank and after circulating with the pump. I guess it is possible though that there is a bubble in there. Thoughts?

[Dave 53]

You need to install a petcock valve as high as possible on the intercooler to bleed the air out. Be careful drilling the hole. Go too deep and you'll damage the core.

The psi gauge on my fill tank is just for fun. It barely moves, maybe .3 psi.

I'd suggest adding Water Wetter to the distilled water.awic.jpg

[idf]

You need to install a petcock valve as high as possible on the intercooler to bleed the air out. Be careful drilling the hole. Go too deep and you'll damage the core.

The psi gauge on my fill tank is just for fun. It barely moves, maybe .3 psi.

I'd suggest adding Water Wetter to the distilled water.awic.jpg

I was concerned both about drilling into something I didn't want to and whether the IC is thick enough to tap for a petcock.
Agree about water wetter if climate warm enough not to need antifreeze.

[jforand]

Could you not just do a single tap at the highest point in the IC to the bottom of an elevated atmospheric reservoir? This would be a single penetration/tap if that operation is making you nervous. Air would bubble up and liquid would drain down to replace it. Further, thermal expansion would raise the reservoir level and it would return as it cooled. This is really the same principal as the atmospheric overflow on the radiator. The only difference is they generally have dip tubes just so they can fill/suck from the top (easier access, could easily be a barb off the bottom) and then the radiator cap has a pressure seal, but that is controlling pressure in the cooing system and does not affect the overflow in the least.

The dual porting would certainly support better 'flow' as liquid and air do not need to travel opposing directions in the same tube, but this is only the case on fill and purge. Under normal operation there really should be no flow in these line(s) expect for minimal thermal expansion/contraction.

[Dave 53]

Probably a dozen ways to skin the cat. One issue is having high places in the engine compartment. That small little tank (with the useless fun gauge - I was jealous of you guys with fuel pressure gauges) is the absolute highest object in my engine compartment. It just fits under the engine cover hump. And it's less than an inch above the intercooler bleed petcock. If I open the petcock with the pump running, water flows out, so a tank as you theorize would have to be high enough to overcome that small amount of pressure. It would have to be mounted up under the forward highest part of the engine cover hump. I suspect that would be high enough to overcome this small amount of pressure. I don't think thermal expansion is an issue. The real advantage of your idea is being able to see the water level in the system.

Note added later: After more thought, such a tank plumbed to the high point of the intercooler probably wouldn't indicate the water level in the system. But, a tank plumbed to the radiator cap barb with a cap that had no pressure seal would work if it was possible (and I don't think it is) to mount the tank above the radiator cap. I believe the only way to check water level is...

If you take the tank cap off with the pump running, water boils out. If you take the cap off with the pump off, the tank will have water in it, but that is not a representation of the system being full of water. The way to check water level is to open the radiator cap with the pump running. Admitadly, I haven't done that in a while, like maybe even almost a year / 5,000 miles (my bad). I just did and discovered my pump fuse was blown and I was down about 1.5 quarts!

I use the be able to hear the AWIC pump run before turning over the motor, but since adding a fuel serge tank, the fuel pump is louder and drowns out the AWIC pump. So, I have no idea how long the fuse has been blown, but it's since I added the fuel serge tank a couple of months ago. I have no idea what the root cause of the fuse blowing could be.

I need to start checking the water level (pump on - radiator water level) more often. I don't see any leaks.

[jforand]

The reservoir would definitely need to be the highest point to work best. Conversely, the atmospheric overflow tank on the engine's radiator (not the IC radiator) is not the highest point and has that dip tube which goes to the bottom to be under the fluid level. The magic to that working is the thermal expansion. There is enough expansion to push liquid and air out and down that tube and under the liquid level to truly vent. Then when it does cool back down there is enough volume change to pull liquid up the tube, out the top of the tank, and into the radiator fill neck. Without a significant expansion in the IC cooling circuit you would need to rely on gravity to pull the liquid down and the air be forced back up.

[blomb11]

You need to install a petcock valve as high as possible on the intercooler to bleed the air out. Be careful drilling the hole. Go too deep and you'll damage the core.

The psi gauge on my fill tank is just for fun. It barely moves, maybe .3 psi.

I'd suggest adding Water Wetter to the distilled water.awic.jpg

I didn’t realize the frozen boost kit came with the remote radiator in-line fill like you have in your picture. Where do you connect the barb that is not shown in your picture and which is right under the cap?

I see you have an NPT fitting at the top of the IC as well. Is this what you are referring to as the petcock valve? I would think this is also to bleed off air. Where does this fitting connect to?

I have never dealt with radiator systems before so I am learning and appreciate all of your input.

[idf]

I didn’t realize the frozen boost kit came with the remote radiator in-line fill like you have in your picture. Where do you connect the barb that is not shown in your picture and which is right under the cap?

I see you have an NPT fitting at the top of the IC as well. Is this what you are referring to as the petcock valve? I would think this is also to bleed off air. Where does this fitting connect to?

I have never dealt with radiator systems before so I am learning and appreciate all of your input.

I realize your questions are to Dave, but I'll chime in with my thoughts as to answers. I don't think the barb under the remote fill cap (or the one on the heat exchanger) needs to be connected to anything. For liquid to come out of either pressure would need to exceed that of the radiator cap and I doubt it ever will. If you wanted, you could connect to a catch can.

The petcock is as you say is to bleed off air. It doesn't need to be connected to anything, other than while bleeding to catch any coolant that may come out. My system is similar to Dave's (sans pressure gauge) except that I plan to add the petcock tomorrow.

[idf]

I realize your questions are to Dave, but I'll chime in with my thoughts as to answers. I don't think the barb under the remote fill cap (or the one on the heat exchanger) needs to be connected to anything. For liquid to come out of either pressure would need to exceed that of the radiator cap and I doubt it ever will. If you wanted, you could connect to a catch can.

The petcock is as you say is to bleed off air. It doesn't need to be connected to anything, other than while bleeding to catch any coolant that may come out. My system is similar to Dave's (sans pressure gauge) except that I plan to add the petcock tomorrow.

Petcock installed. I used my big yellow funnel to create a few more inches of water pressure and the bleeder appeared to work well. Awic Bleeder.jpg

[Dave 53]

Yep, what idf said.

I don't have any catch cans. I'm just using distilled water with a bit of Water Wetter, so I'm not worried if any water get's out, which is just a little when I open the intercooler bleed petcock.

When drilling the hole for the bleed petcock valve, I strongly suggest using a drill stop collar or some other method to make sure the drill doesn't get away from you and damage the intercooler core.

If you have a bleed petcock valve on the intercooler, I don't think the little high point tank in necessary because based on my experience, the way to fill / check water level is via the radiator cap at the front of the car with the pump running. I have no reason to open the high point tank cap next to the intercooler.

[blomb11]

Okay so what I thought was just a hose barb in your picture on the corner of the intercooler is the petcock valve. So when filling the system you crack that open to bleed out the air and you fill it at the front radiator. I could run a hose from the barb on the remote tank next to the intercooler to a catch can or something. I think I am getting it. The pictures I was searching at first looked quite different but I see a 1/8 NPT petcock valve that looks similar and would think would do the trick.

Guess I don’t need the expansion tank or other fittings I bought.

[Dave 53]

With the pump running, you can open the radiator cap and water won't pour out.
1. Initially / first time, with pump off, add as much water to the radiator as you can. If you have a tank with a cap near the intercooler, you can fill that until it's full too, then cap it.
2. Start the pump. Water level in the radiator will drop. Add water as it drops until it stays full.
3. Pump still running, open intercooler bleed valve until a solid steam of water is flowing out.
4. Pump still running, top off radiator.

I just let the water pour out of the bleed valve onto the engine because it's just water with a bit of Water Wetter.

This assumes the pump mounted low in the front of the car. Lower than the bottom of the radiator. awic pump.jpg

[blomb11]

I picked up a rivnut tool off Amazon and man does this make this process to much easier than using the FFR method in the manual.
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I followed similar steps to what Hobby did for installing the Hydramat in the fuel tank. I had to cutoff the bottom of the hanger to allow for clearance in the tank and then to be able to clear the float. I then welded on a spring clip to adjust the angle and hold the AEM fuel pump. The hydramat sits flush on the bottom of the tank. I bent the floats to clear the hydramat and pump, but I also had to bend it since the FFR tank is shorter so this makes sense it will read full and empty correctly. I also added fuel cell foam on the driver's side of the tank to help limit the sloshing as well. I could not get a picture of the hydramat installed so this is an earlier picture but is how it sits in the tank.

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I am reusing the Cobb fuel rails, fuel lines, and 1050X injectors I had on my STI which fit on the EJ207 pretty nicely with some adjustments. I ran the 6AN lines down the tank to the side and through the rear firewall. The feed line goes through the firewall up to my ethanol sensor and then into the Cobb fuel rails. On the return it leaves the fuel rails and goes into the FPR then back down through the firewall and back to the tank. I connected the vent line on the fuel sender to the roll over vent on the tank and ran it through the firewall and up to another roll over vent (not shown) which mounts right next to the ethanol sensor. Hopefully these two 5/16" vent lines will help with the slow filling issue I read about and of course will allow the tank to breath.

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[blomb11]

I started using the corrugated tubing provided in the kit, but then switched from the recommendation from Justin. I ordered the radiator hoses and tube joiners he mentioned previously in this thread. I went with a CSF radiator which I raised by 0.25" to clear the steering rack. On the top side I was able to modify the OEM mounts as noted in the manual and then used aluminum spacers cut to 0.7".

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I was able to cut the radiator hoses to be able to route the through both sides of the frame in front of the cockpit. On the passenger side I have the hose connecting to a straight aluminum joiner and then on the driver side I used the 135 degree aluminum joiner. I need to drop in a battery before I secure the hose on the radiator outlet so that I can get the hose in a good spot before clamping it down. On both sides where the hoses exit the frame to go down the sides and aft the hoses make a very tight turn and the hoses are squeezed making them more elliptical that round, but hopefully this will not be a big impact. On the hose coming out of the engine from the coolant crossover pipe I used the 2nd straight aluminum joiner to make the hose go around the trailing link. I had to cut down the lengths of the aluminum coolant tubes provided in the kit to work with the rubber radiator hoses. I found a Youtube video showing how to modify Harbor Freight wire crimpers to make a simple tube beading tool. It is not as good as using a real tool, but it gets the job done. I had to heat up the aluminum pipe to be able to form the material. I will use this same method on the AWIC install.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLMqU7Yh89w

I made a bracket out of aluminum angle iron to mount the coolant expansion (degas?) tank. I then mounted the overflow tank on the rear firewall behind the driver. I capped the 2 overflow barbs on the radiator and then connected the expansion tank to the Wayne cooling mod on the coolant crossover pipe.

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Up next: Shifter, AWIC, and wiring harness

[blomb11]

What is the max height of the AWIC to be able to fit under the engine panel? I am at ~9.5" because I had to make an adapter bracket to install the ZeroDB AWIC bracket to my 6spd. If needed I could redo this bracket to bring it down ~1".

IMG_0388.jpg

[idf]

What is the max height of the AWIC to be able to fit under the engine panel? I am at ~9.5" because I had to make an adapter bracket to install the ZeroDB AWIC bracket to my 6spd. If needed I could redo this bracket to bring it down ~1".

IMG_0388.jpg

That measurement on my car is just over 6 inches. The engine cover clears it by about 1 in. It looks as if you are going to need to angle the IC down further to clear.

[jforand]

Can't answer the AWIC height question, but speaking of max heights... I was looking at your plumbing pics and see your Tilton brake reservoir. I am wondering if that is going to clear the hood? I mounted mine on the little fiberglass ledge formed in the black fiberglass arch that secures the front of the dash down to the frame. So, I am significantly further back and only clear the hood by maybe 3/4" inch or so.

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Ok, it was bugging me so I just went out to the garage and did some rough measurements. It appears I have mine mounted about 1.5" higher than yours (assuming you bolted through the middle of the bar. I used a level to come forward horizontally to your rough location and took the vertical measurement. It appears the hood drops about 1.5" in that distance and location. You might end up with the same ~3/4" clearance I have.

[blomb11]

That measurement on my car is just over 6 inches. The engine cover clears it by about 1 in. It looks as if you are going to need to angle the IC down further to clear.

Good thing I asked now! Looks like I will need to reduce my mount by 3" so back to the drawing board.

Can't answer the AWIC height question, but speaking of max heights... I was looking at your plumbing pics and see your Tilton brake reservoir. I am wondering if that is going to clear the hood? I mounted mine on the little fiberglass ledge formed in the black fiberglass arch that secures the front of the dash down to the frame. So, I am significantly further back and only clear the hood by maybe 3/4" inch or so.

F822E7E8-3A2A-4930-BBD9-3593250C9667.jpg 4477F11A-26C2-4D54-A04E-F9D9B313F5F1.jpg

Ok, it was bugging me so I just went out to the garage and did some rough measurements. It appears I have mine mounted about 1.5" higher than yours (assuming you bolted through the middle of the bar. I used a level to come forward horizontally to your rough location and took the vertical measurement. It appears the hood drops about 1.5" in that distance and location. You might end up with the same ~3/4" clearance I have.

I used this thread to help decide where to mount the Tilton reservoir. I am also saving space to add a wiper in that are since I am going to register this thing (hopefully). I need to do that quick in CA before they ban everything!

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...ighlight=wiper

[blomb11]

Been working on a few things in parallel. I am waiting for my last set of ZeroDB brackets to finish the AWIC. I got the VCP K tuned shifter installed. The kit I bought off of Wallace came with two 96” cables to go around the A/C I guess. I deleted the A/C so I ended up ordering an 84” cable. I will need to make a reverse lockout bracket and run the cable up to the shifter. I am waiting until I get the harness in and figure what to do about the center console.

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The first set of cable holes I cut on the rear firewall were too high and I noticed once I was mocking up the interior firewall. I installed rivenuts along the top and then added PEM nuts on the bottom to try and make it easy to take out and put back in. The only issue I am seeing is the small piece that rivets to the larger firewall sheet. I riveted these together but now I am not sure I will be able to install or get it out easily with the harness and shifter cables. I was thinking about using some more PEM nuts since rivnuts are too long. Has anyone else made theirs removable?

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Up next is to finish the AWIC and install the wiring harness.

[fletch]

Not an R builder and still in progress. Been gokarting for 18 months or so. I have never had to remove the cables once installed. I did make my rear firewall removable but haven’t had to pull it out (yet). Hope that’s useful info.

[blomb11]

Maybe I just riveted them together too soon. I can drill them out so that I can insert the wiring harness and the cables in the cutout and then rivet the panels back together.

My concern is if I ever need to get at the fuel pump down the road because that part of the firewall would not be removable because of the rivets, wiring harness, and shifter cables keeping it in place. For the first start I want to leave those panels off to make sure there are no leaks or other fuel issues.

[carnutdave]

blomb11, this is what I ended up doing with my firewall. I had similar concerns about being able to remove it later on. The small middle panel is riveted to the drivers side firewall and connected to the passenger side with rivnuts. The way they overlap is different than what the manual says. When I did the carpeting, I carpeted the drivers side and passenger side firewalls separately so I can remove them one at at time (I have the coupe). I've taken them out once since the car has been "together" and it's difficult but it does work. Takes a bit of maneuvering.
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[NISMO_RB25]

blomb11, this is what I ended up doing with my firewall. I had similar concerns about being able to remove it later on. The small middle panel is riveted to the drivers side firewall and connected to the passenger side with rivnuts. The way they overlap is different than what the manual says. When I did the carpeting, I carpeted the drivers side and passenger side firewalls separately so I can remove them one at at time (I have the coupe). I've taken them out once since the car has been "together" and it's difficult but it does work. Takes a bit of maneuvering.
20200705_093757_resized.jpg

Good idea. I got to that point yesterday and realized I was going to be drilling out my rivets.

[jforand]

I have the original firewall, but I can tell you that even from the go kart stage, I have had to take the firewall out a bazillion times. I used rivet nuts everywhere. There is just too much stuff behind it to think you will never go there again. If we weren't,t car people maybe, but I think we are all afflicted as we are all building one....

[blomb11]

Still working on wrangling the octopus of a wiring harness and trying to see how to get it to fit nicely. I have both fuse boxes up front and then the ECU and the relays (fuel and light) will be mounted on one of the interior firewall panels behind the seats. The battery cable FFR provided does not fit the 26R positive battery post so that is annoying. I will have to cut it off and crimp on one that does fit. There is a large section of the hardness that could be removed to shorten everything post the fuel pump to the rear headlights. I just have this coiled up on top of the fuel tank for now. I want to start it before I cut anything else out.

I noticed I really don't like hearing my own voice and sound very mono-toned haha so I apologize for that. However, she powers on and I even got the fuel pump to turn on so that is a good thing!

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/F1VP7wWlUNE

I am waiting for my ZeroDB brackets to show up so I can finish the AWIC. I then need to wrap my header, buy and wrap a DP, get a wideband sensor, a fuel pressure sensor, and fill it with fluids and I am ready to start it for the first time!

[blomb11]

I have done a few other things while I was waiting for parts to arrive and prep for the first start. I wrapped my header and up pipe with DEI titanium wrap and applied their silicone heat spray. I installed the brake pads, bled the clutch, and bled brake lines. I learned the right rear bracket needed to be moved outward by 0.03" so I made some stainless spacers and then of course the left rear needed to go inward 0.03" so I had to grind the bracket down. I tired to use a hole saw to get the correct OD of the spacer and drilled out the center for the M14 bolt. Not the prettiest again but it worked. I took my time to grind down the left rear to try and get it as flat as possible, but I made extra spacers in case I need to bring it back OB. I learned the hard way I did not tighten a couple of the brake line couplers and spilled about half a bottle of fluid on the garage floor oops.

I installed an iWire VSS Pro to the front right wheel to measure the wheel speed and feed into the vehicle speed sensor since the 6spd I have does not have a speed sensor. We will see how this works since it is not on a power wheel on the rear.

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Last weekend I completed the vacuum lines and connecting to the Perrin EBCS. I had to make a small bracket from AL sheetmetal to mount it to the intake manifold. The transmission and the engine both now have oil in them so next is to fill both coolant systems. I am working on wiring up a fuel pressure senor, oil pressure/temperature, and wide band sensor before I attempt to start it. I am going to prime the engine a few times to try and get oil pressure first since the engine has been sitting for over a year at this point. I bought a VF37 downpipe bell mouth so I am looking at what my exhaust set up will be. I will need to get a 60* bend SS304 tube and then I think I will connect it to a Vibrant TPV muffler to try and quiet it down some. My brother in law got a welder capable of stainless steel so I think I will try welding it myself. Then I will give it the same DEI wrap treatment.

Lots in work and my first start is looming very soon!

[blomb11]

The AWIC is installed minus the water pump wiring. This took a lit longer to get everything installed and waiting on brackets to be made. I had to make a lot of modification in order to make it work with my set up. I order the kit through Zero Decibel to get Craig's brackets and the Frozen Boost AWIC kit. First I chose to retain the the stock BPV which required drilling new holes and cutting the flanges to fit the Greddy style BOV gasket and mount. I also extended the BPV valve tubing in order to reach the BPV from the turbo inlet. Next I had to modify and remove about 3" from the ZeroDB rear AWIC mount since I raised my engine 1.5" and have a 6spd. You can see in one of the last pictures it took several attempts to make my sheetmetal bracket. It was a bit challenging to bend the aluminum using a vice so I learned it required planning out the features ahead of certain bends to make it work. Next I had to modify the front bracket for the AWIC again due to having a 6spd, raised engine, and AOS in that same area. It is definitely not pretty since I do not have an AL welder but it will work. I ran the outlet of the AWIC down the driver side, the inlet down the passenger side, and located the water pump up front behind the battery. I switch the inlet/outlet of the heat exchanger to be similar to what Bob_n_Cincy did. I connected the inlet to the bottom of the heat exchanger to allow for the air to bubble up to the top.

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[blomb11]

I have run into a snag trying to get my first start. I am able to turn the engine over, build oil pressure, and build fuel pressure, but no spark. I pulled a couple plugs, grounded them, and noticed I was not getting any spark. So I started digging into my harness dieting and I think I might have found one thing I might have missed. I removed the keyless entry but left the body integrated unit. Well some of the body integrated unit that was left after I removed other systems.

I removed pin 12 from the keyless entry control module but this connect la to the starter cut relay. I think this needs to be connected to something else, but I am not exactly sure what. I was thinking maybe it needs to be connected to F-15 fuse number 18 since I removed that as well. FFR mentioned in his diet he removed both modules and was able to start his car. So I just need to figure out what to connect it to or bypass it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

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[FFRWRX]

I sent you a PM, but since it may help others, I'll reply here too. I had my engine crank and crank but not fire. Turned out it was the immobilizer antenna that I didn't have plugged in. A 2 wire connector that goes to the ring around the key switch.

I hope that is it for you too as it is an easy fix.

Rick

[blomb11]

I have the immobilizer antenna and module plugged in. I should have mentioned this part, but I did remove a couple wires from the immobilizer module during my diet. It seems to be isolated to the starting circuit since the engine cranks but does not fire. This is why I thought it might be due to the cutting the RB wire between the starter cut relay and the keyless entry module as shown in the picture of the schematic (post #154). It seems like this needs to be connected to complete the starter cut relay circuit. I am not sure what to connect it to...

[FFRWRX]

Not sure I can help any more since it was 2 years ago I did the wire diet. If it isn't in my build thread then it really isn't anywhere. When I did something that got the car running I usually just moved on from there without making any notes on what I did.

But if you can't sort it out and want to help me jog my memory, you can send me a shot of the "starter cut relay" (so I can remember which one that is and where it is) and maybe I can see where I ran that wire.

Rick

[blomb11]

I will check the ECU pin out again. The picture of the starter cut relay is 4 posts up.

[FFRWRX]

I meant a picture of the actual really itself, not the schematic. I deleted a lot of relays so I probably won't know by looking at mine which one it is unless I see a picture of it.

[blomb11]

Here is a picture of the relay and it is the 3rd one from the left with the yellow/blue and red/white wire. I confirmed I get more than 10V on both red/white wires when I turn the key to start and push the clutch in. However, I get 0V on the yellow/blue wire which connects to the ECU.

E5A76E3F-B91E-4AD1-8252-B1655B59E4CD.jpg