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I noticed you mounted your main electrical shutoff close to those. Keep in mind that the splash guards that get mounted to the hood are also in that general location. Hope they don't interfere with each other.
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Thanks Namrups,
I'm hoping I'll be OK with the cut-off switch. It is aft if the splash panel by a few inches. It should be just above the exhaust. Thanks for the idea on the brake reservoir mount!
Shakey
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Just viewed your first start and go kart videos, awesome and congrats on the achievements!
My coupe arrives in August, can't wait to get started. I love the bronze wheels, doing something similar on mine, just a different wheel pattern.
MK4 base kit, 2004 Mach 1 donor, 4.6L DOHC, TR-3650 5-speed, narrowed stock axle with 3.55 gears and TruTrac, PS, PB, ABS, 17" Halibrand replica wheels, started 12/2011, registered 9/2014, sold 3/1/2018.
1970 Mustang Fastback Coyote powered Boss 302 tribute. Started 10/14/16.
Gen 3 Coupe Base Kit non-donor build. Ordered 4/5/2024 to be received August 2024.
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Hey Alan, sounds like a fun build. I basically went for the Forgestar wheels because I could get the offset right and not run wheel spacers. More custom wheels are out there but are much more expensive. My wife is from Prescott Valley AZ. If we are gonna be in that area I'm might shoot you a PM and we can compare notes.
Last edited by Shakey; 04-30-2024 at 08:26 PM.
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Originally Posted by
Shakey
Hey Alan, sounds like a fun build. I basically went for the Forgestar wheels because I could get the offset right and not run wheel spacers. More custom wheels are out there but are much more expensive. My wife is from Prescott Valley AZ. If we are gonna be in that area I'm might shoot you a PM and we can compare notes.
If you don't mind, please share your exact offsets or backspacing on your wheels. You indicate that your wheels are just about ideal as they don't require spacers. It would help greatly when I go to order in July as maybe I can get APEX to match your backspacing.
MK4 base kit, 2004 Mach 1 donor, 4.6L DOHC, TR-3650 5-speed, narrowed stock axle with 3.55 gears and TruTrac, PS, PB, ABS, 17" Halibrand replica wheels, started 12/2011, registered 9/2014, sold 3/1/2018.
1970 Mustang Fastback Coyote powered Boss 302 tribute. Started 10/14/16.
Gen 3 Coupe Base Kit non-donor build. Ordered 4/5/2024 to be received August 2024.
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Senior Member
Keep in mind this is not critisism merely a suggestion if its even possible.
With the reservoirs could you mount the first one on the bar thats supporting the front foot well aluminum and then have the other two on the bar that you have all three of them currently? If so the bar thickness may also afford you to lower the resrvoirs to line up at the top. If this is possible it would look cleaner in the engine bay without the angle iron and nuts sticking up.
HTH
John
PS wheels look killer!
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John,
That's a good idea. I played around with that a little bit but I would have to use through bolts instead of rivnuts and I am not sure if I can drill the holes straight enough to get them to line up perfectly. I had a lot of trouble getting my through bolts to line up when I mounted my battery cut-off switch. I also already drill and mounted the rivnuts for the angle iron. In the future if I feel the need to clean up the engine bay I might go with this route.
Shakey
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Here are the specs for the 18 inch Halibrand wheels that Factory Five sells.
Front Wheel Size (Diameter x width): 18″x 9″
Rear Wheel Size (Diameter x width): 18″x 11″
Front Wheel Backspace: 6.00″ (24mm Offset)
Rear Wheel Backspace: 6.46″ (12mm Offset)
Wheel Lug Pattern: Ford style 5 lug x 4.5″ bolt circle
So with this as a baseline as the FFR wheels are said to work on the coupe, I have made a quick table in Excel.
Source Front Width Offset Rear Width Offset
FFR 18x9 +24mm 18x11 +12mm
Shakey 18x10 +12mm 19x12 -25mm
AC 19x11 0mm 19x12 0mm
The offset at the front for all three configurations make sense as for each 1 inch of wheel width the offset is changed by 1/2 inch. So why did you push your rear wheel face out another inch? Just curious and trying to put a reason behind the number the rear wheel offset numbers.
Last edited by Alan_C; 05-10-2024 at 03:25 PM.
MK4 base kit, 2004 Mach 1 donor, 4.6L DOHC, TR-3650 5-speed, narrowed stock axle with 3.55 gears and TruTrac, PS, PB, ABS, 17" Halibrand replica wheels, started 12/2011, registered 9/2014, sold 3/1/2018.
1970 Mustang Fastback Coyote powered Boss 302 tribute. Started 10/14/16.
Gen 3 Coupe Base Kit non-donor build. Ordered 4/5/2024 to be received August 2024.
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Senior Member
That's one beautiful engine!
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Senior Member
Could’ve told us to put on sun glasses before we got to the pulley pics
Did they dyno it for you?
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Thanks guys. I got a pretty good chuckle from that last comment.
No dyno numbers. I plan to go to the chassis dyno when I have the car together. I am guessing about 530hp based on internet research. Ford claims 500hp out of theirs and I have a bit more compression, slightly bigger cam and heads.
Shakey
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Senior Member
I'm late the the party, but the build is looking great!
The engine is really going to pop against the firewall and I'm a fan of the wheel color choice too
Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe builder
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Hey thanks q4stix,
I have not made a post to this thread in a while and I am way overdue for an update. There is more info on the build on this other thread. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-a-Gen-3-coupe. I am getting really close to the first start so, I have been spending every free moment working on the car and have neglected my build thread.
The overall look for the car is inspired by the 1966 lemans winning GT40 which is why I chose the bronze wheels.
V/R
Shakey
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Senior Member
Shakey, How do the A4 seats fit relative to the seatbelt tabs? I assume they sit in front of the tabs but how far back can you recline the seat? Will it go to the back of the roll cage? I have a set of the Corbeau Evolution X fixed back and I need the seat back farther back to have a comfortable distance to the steering wheel (I.e. not directly in my lap). I can wedge my seats back on an angle and they are OK, but a recliner if it fits might work great.
Engine looks , and your work on getting the transmission mounted was very thoughtful and will be of help to me.
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Hank,
It's tight with the A4 seats in there. I have not mounted them yet. I needed to cut off part of the metal bracket on the seat to get them to slide between the seatbelt mounts. I have bolted the belts in and with the bolt head in there the seat no longer fits between the mounts. I will be using the low profile seat slider which will raise the seat a bit and I am hoping that will allow the seat to slide all the way back. Right now the part if the seat that prevents it from going back further is where the seat back contacts the frame near where the door striker is. That's one reason I am using the sliders is so that I can play around with the seat recline and find the most comfortable position. When I get them fully installed, I'll post more details.
Shakey
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First Start!
After I got the drivetrain fully installed, I started pushing hard to get all the odds and ends cleaned up prior to the first start. The majority of the work was wiring. I got all the gauges wired up as well as the fuel system, Fan, Coil, ignition box, T56 reverse lockout, distributor, and the last bit of wiring cleanup from the terminator X. Looking back now it was quite a bit of wiring but pretty straight forward. I had to make a couple calls to Holley tech support, but they were super helpful.
I got the distributor installed and made my first set of spark plug wires from scratch. I basically bought bulk hyperspark wires in black and the terminals and went at it. It was fairly simple. I also phased the distributor per the instructions for the Holley dual sync distributor.
Before the first start, I had to get the power steering plumbed. The instructions said to not run the pump dry so this was a must. I got the universal hose kit (77900) from billet specialties as well as their remote power steering reservoir (77910). Not cheap parts but they were nice and came with almost everything I needed. With the tru-trac system and a Ford Power steering rack you also need to run the Billet Specialties flow control valve (RP1300). This basically reduces pump flow to 2gpm for the Ford rack. I am glad I called Billet Specialties tech support because I had no idea that I needed to run a flow control valve. I will mention here that I initially installed power steering lines incorrectly. I had the high pressure line going to the 5/8in port per Unisteers website and this was incorrect. In my case the high pressure line went to the 9/16in port towards the front of the car. Here is a pic of the power steering reservoir location and connection to the pump.
Getting the radiator hoses plumbed was also pretty straight forward. I did have one pop off after the first start. It was the lower one that connects to the water pump inlet. I basically had to use a rigid coupler to get the connection solid because connecting the FFR provided coupler to the FFR provided lower flexible hose did not hold up well. The FFR provided coupler needed something to grab on to. I also got the overflow tank mounted next to the power steering reservoir and routed the overflow hose down below the car.
I also got the Forte mechanical throttle linkage installed. It needs a little adjustment to get it right, but I set it up to be as progressive as I could. Here is a pic of it installed.
Here are some pics of the engine bay in its mostly complete state. I still need to do the A/C system.
Ford Strokers starting procedure is pretty simple. He basically says to run a conventional oil and prime the engine really well and then go for it. Per his procedure, I primed the oil pump in the motor and turned the crank 90 degrees and primed again then did another 90 degrees. Basically do this until you are all the way around. I then turned on the terminator X and did all the initial setup. The fuel pump and all the gauges were working 4.0. I then did a static timing check with the fuel pump fuse removed and timing looked good and I was getting oil pressure at the gauge by turning the motor with the starter. I put the fuel pump fuse back in and went for the start. After some cranking I gave it some gas and it wanted to start but I let off of the starter and on the second attempt it started right up. It took some gas to get the motor started and to keep it running. The EFI definitely needs to do some learning. It sounds great and it is LOUD!!! It has a nice choppy idle and I love the old school V8 sound. Here are some videos of the first start.
https://youtube.com/shorts/Ffyl-pfn7U8
https://youtube.com/shorts/X18l4i_xsw8
Next post will be the first Go-kart drive.
Shakey
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Awesome! Congrats! What a great sound. I’m realizing I need to look at the forum more - our builds are quite similar. I really like everything you are doing. I have a fire suppression system that has had me somewhat flummoxed for the last couple of weeks and your photos help. I very much lime the way you have done your dash. I’m working on mine right now and realized, after seeing your photos, I had forgotten about the wipers. Love your wheel color - I have halibrands but intend to paint them gold/gunmetal. Your videos are motivating to me!!
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Glad I read your comment about the BS Flow control valve. My 363 and TKX are supposed to arrive tomorrow. Mine also has a TruTrac front dress. Still waiting on my wheels, they should arrive in the next month or so. Hopefully sooner than later.
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First Go-Kart!
Got the first go-kart completed! The car was basically ready to go after the first start but was delayed a bit due to having to swap the power steering lines and tuning the Terminator X EFI. I spent a little extra time doing static timing checks to get the timing right. I basically left it 3 degrees retarded from what Holly has programmed in the ECU. 36 degrees total timing seemed like a bit much to me. I will eventually take the car to the dyno and have a professional tune it up much better than I could. I also spent some time messing with the Idle settings in the handheld and the screw on the throttle body. It seems to be happiest set at about 900 RPM idle.
The couple drives I went on were awesome. The car drives great and is very tight and smooth. The clutch is not heavy but firm and very smooth. Having an engine like that in such a lightweight car you basically don’t need any gas to get it moving just ease off the clutch and it gets going. I did notice the suspension sag about a half inch in the couple drives I went on.
Below are a couple videos of the drives and some walk arounds/engine sounds from the driver’s seat.
https://youtube.com/shorts/ZbeVgi5ztgk
https://youtube.com/shorts/FntL1ALsOjw
https://youtu.be/60s3aYEYH4A
https://youtu.be/PvhlSkQPAnU
https://youtu.be/UgUdCH6X0tA
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Looking great, sounds awesome!
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I love how great that engine sounds!
the chop is phenomenal.
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Senior Member
Sounds amazing!
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I've been looking at those seats. Any thoughts on them thus far? Comfortable?
I'm 6'2" - do you think they'd be good for someone my height?
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Originally Posted by
JimStone
I've been looking at those seats. Any thoughts on them thus far? Comfortable?
I'm 6'2" - do you think they'd be good for someone my height?
Yes, I find them comfortable. The seat bolstering is prominent and they definitely hold you in place. I am 6ft 4in about 210lbs and I fit just fine. It does feel a bit like you are wearing the car not sitting in it. For big and tall folks you definitely would get more room if you used aluminum race seats bolted directly to the floor. I really like the look of them and so far they are pretty comfortable.
Shakey
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Great job Shakey. Big step.Two items: 1) I noticed how you routed your heater hoses in one of your pictures. I had mine the same way and could not get heat. The manual shows the heater hose that is coming from the top footbox connection should be attached to the heater valve outlet closest to the firewall. Once I changed mine I had heat. 2) I followed the manual as far as positioning my body but when it came time to mount the door hinges they would not swing fully and I had to reposition the body for clearance. I would suggest cutting your hinge openings and mocking up the hinges for clearance before securing the body down.
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Originally Posted by
Namrups
Great job Shakey. Big step.Two items: 1) I noticed how you routed your heater hoses in one of your pictures. I had mine the same way and could not get heat. The manual shows the heater hose that is coming from the top footbox connection should be attached to the heater valve outlet closest to the firewall. Once I changed mine I had heat. 2) I followed the manual as far as positioning my body but when it came time to mount the door hinges they would not swing fully and I had to reposition the body for clearance. I would suggest cutting your hinge openings and mocking up the hinges for clearance before securing the body down.
Great observations! I have not run the heater yet. The vents and ducts still need to be plumbed. I will definitely keep this in mind and it will be the first thing I do if the heat isn't working. I already bolted the body on but there is still some adjustment in the rear brackets. If needed I suppose I can re-drill the screw holes near the doors. Thanks for the comments. I will do the doors next for sure before I get any further into the body work.
V/R
Shakey
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