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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
mrglaeser
Ready for step 1 - started to look at the F-panels and the drivers side doesn't line up so well. This lead to some measuring and it looks like the bar that runs the length of the engine compartment was welded in 1/4-1/2 inch further to the rear of the car than the passenger side. This means the radiator support and dash hoop are both at a very slight angle. Not sure if I should worry about this or not.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-not-lining-up
Hey Matt, saw your associated thread and responses. Good to post, and good feedback received. It's a typical hump to get over with the first panel or two. A recurring theme through the build is questions like these ... is it 'typical', or is there something off with what FFR sent me? You'll get dialed in pretty quickly. If something needs minor tweaking (and this one was fairly minor, actually), I'd typically have at it. But if anything was off in a major way, in retrospect ... it was me that was off, not any of the parts.
As for raised welds keeping aluminum from sitting flush: I would hit the aluminum over the weld with a rubber hammer, and with one or two blows have a panel which fit around the weld perfectly. Could always grind down the weld and recoat it for protection from rust, but the way I used was quick, easy, and turned in a perfectly acceptable result (which wouldn't been seen in the end anyway).
MK4 #7838: IRS 3.55 TrueTrac T5z Dart 347
The drawing is from ~7th grade, mid-1970s
Meandering, leisurely build thread is
here
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Originally Posted by
John Ibele
Hey Matt, saw your associated thread and responses. Good to post, and good feedback received. It's a typical hump to get over with the first panel or two. A recurring theme through the build is questions like these ... is it 'typical', or is there something off with what FFR sent me? You'll get dialed in pretty quickly. If something needs minor tweaking (and this one was fairly minor, actually), I'd typically have at it. But if anything was off in a major way, in retrospect ... it was me that was off, not any of the parts.
As for raised welds keeping aluminum from sitting flush: I would hit the aluminum over the weld with a rubber hammer, and with one or two blows have a panel which fit around the weld perfectly. Could always grind down the weld and recoat it for protection from rust, but the way I used was quick, easy, and turned in a perfectly acceptable result (which wouldn't been seen in the end anyway).
Hey John thanks for the reply. Wish I had seen this earlier this week. Yeah I did a little trimming and I'm decently happy with the fitting.
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Senior Member
Your post #43 ... I can't remember if this was it, but I know I found some of these to be handy at some point during the suspension installation.
Coilovers ... I'm pretty sure most folks don't ever tighten the set screw. From what I've read for the most part they don't move. My challenge was getting them to move enough ... little space to work in, and the friction was hard for me to overcome. I picked up some of this stuff, which I had read about in setup recommendations on another site (didn't find much on Koni's site). The stuff is sold in bike stores, and is supposed to work well in lubricating without picking up debris when on the road. I wanted something to reduce friction, and sure couldn't picture gooping up my shocks with anti-seize.
Looks like you're having fun out there in the car palace!
MK4 #7838: IRS 3.55 TrueTrac T5z Dart 347
The drawing is from ~7th grade, mid-1970s
Meandering, leisurely build thread is
here
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Originally Posted by
mrglaeser
Then on to the front coil overs.
I didn't see any instructions on the set screw so I just put them in loose so I don't lose them. I'm assuming there will be adjustments to make in the future and then tighten them. No real issue getting them onto the car. Not sure it would have been much fun if I didn't have some help. All those spacers, nuts, bolts, and arms to old in addition to the coil over.
Before you get too deep into the front-end build, did you verify the rebound setting on the Koni reds? Several builders have noted that the settings aren't consistent from the factory. Setting it while installed is unpleasant if not impossible.
Frank (i.e.427) has a great video on this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JOCEEYdNYOI&t=18m58s
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Originally Posted by
Windsor
Before you get too deep into the front-end build, did you verify the rebound setting on the Koni reds? Several builders have noted that the settings aren't consistent from the factory. Setting it while installed is unpleasant if not impossible.
Frank (i.e.427) has a great video on this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JOCEEYdNYOI&t=18m58s
Hi Rob - Thank for the note. I actually watched that video mid-week and when I worked the car today I pulled out the Coilovers off and checked them before moving on. Wish that little note was in the manual. They did tell us about this in build school but I didn't write it down. So when I saw video it was a head slapper!
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Senior Member
Just caught your thread...
A belated "Welcome to the Asylum!"
I'm also in MN (Mound). If you're on FB, we have a group, MN-WI Cobra Builders. I also know Mr. Ibele - he helped me unload #9365 a few years ago.
John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs
1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
2018 Mk4 Roadster w/ Coyote - #9365 - Build Thread Delivery 7/3/18, 1st Start 1/4/19, 1st Road Mile 5/5/19, Legal 6/18/19, In Paint 2/25/21, Done (?) 4/2021
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Originally Posted by
Fixit
Just caught your thread...
A belated "Welcome to the Asylum!"
I'm also in MN (Mound). If you're on FB, we have a group, MN-WI Cobra Builders. I also know Mr. Ibele - he helped me unload #9365 a few years ago.
Hey John! I'm out in Maple Grove. I am on the FB Group. Watch the FB group in a couple of weeks - I was hoping to invite everyone to a Grill Out end of April or Early May. Scott up in North Oaks and I talked about last fall. My shop space is in Corcoran and there are some pretty nice twisty roads out there for people to drive if they are willing to come out.
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Nice progress!
Craig C
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Hi Matt,
I've heard others use the Breeze centering kit...what's in the kit? Simply offset sleeves?
And at the risk of getting flamed ('cause I'm sure this has been asked many times before), why does the rack need to be centered?
Thanks in advance
Craig C
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Originally Posted by
cc2Arider
Hi Matt,
I've heard others use the Breeze centering kit...what's in the kit? Simply offset sleeves?
And at the risk of getting flamed ('cause I'm sure this has been asked many times before), why does the rack need to be centered?
Thanks in advance
Craig C
The main benefit of the kit is to reduce bump steer. This mostly needed for donor parts. The foxbody or sn95 spindles. I don't think it as much of an issue with the FFR spindles. The second benefit is that the rack as is slightly off center and mounted a little low. This kit changes that too. Finally there some rigdity added froming to solid bushings.
https://breezeautomotive.com/shop/of...ter-and-coupe/
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Additionally I installed the fuel pressure regulator and used some string to measure the lines. I'm going to use braided nylon -6AN lines. hope I did leave too much or too little slack in the string.
Next will be fitting the brake power booster. So it might be a while until I get that figured out.
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Whelp.... Sometimes $hI7 happens. The dolly under my roadster gave out in one corner and collapsed the back half of the rig. I was luckily not under it and the total damages are some scratches to the gas tank over and the tube frame (mostly from jacking the car up when the front was quite high and the back was on the floor).
Everything is on jack stands now. I think the fix is to make the dolly a little longer to change where the weight is centered, center the 2 x 6s the wheels are mounted on the 4x4s, pre-drill the screws to keep the wood from cracking.
Meh. Time for fireworks tomorrow. Worry about the dolly next weekend.
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
mrglaeser
Then I started running the lines. It was the first time I worked with nickel - copper lines. It was pretty nice compared to bending the steel lines. Plus I didn't have to use any of the junctions so a few less places to cause links. I also tried this new flaring tool which worked great. I broke the 3/16 die on my 30 year old Napa kit on like the 3rd flare.
I find it funny how crazy lines look off the car.
Additionally I'm tapping holes and using 1/4" screws for the retainers just in case I need to pull things apart again. Did the same with the fuel lines.
Anyway I pretty happy with the end results.
Your lines look fabulous. Your right wheel in the last picture is creeping me out.
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Originally Posted by
danmas
Your lines look fabulous. Your right wheel in the last picture is creeping me out.
Thanks danmas - if you go up a couple posts there is a picture of a broken dolly! It gave out today. No real damage to the car or people. The 2x6 the wheel was mounted to cracked right down the middle. I saw the wheel when I did the line to the rear and was planning my next move. But I guess I took a day to long. I was actually testing the stability of the setup today and it gave way. Took me an hour and half to get the frame on jack stands. What a PIA.
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Senior Member
Love the white board! I just use a note book...Which is pretty boring
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