Mockup fitment of fuel tank and remote spin-on filter
Hey Y'all,
I started to worry about the brake lines and fuel lines occupying the same space in the rear of the chassis, so I decided to perform a pre-fitment of the fuel tank and my remote spin-on fuel filter.
I gotta think ahead to trunk panels being installed and accessibility only from below, and I observed that other builders that I admire locate their remote spin-on fuel filter on the passenger side near the tank. I just couldn't remember if they mounted the fuel filter to the 2x3 frame tube or to the thick steel flange underneath it.
For those builders who have similar filter arrangements (Aeroquip, Trick Flow, or Summit brand), where did you ultimately decide to locate your bracket?
I spent some time this weekend getting my fuel tank prepped. I chose a hanger assembly based on the good reviews of Paul for his builds, with benefits of 3/8" smooth bent tubing with AN compatible male fittings already included. It also has the return tube opening deeper in the sump to prevent frothing. Based on this return tube design, I needed to file some clearance to the pump access hole. Here's a picture: fuel tank modification to fit better pump hanger assy.jpg
I spun on some teflon tape for the vent, screwed it into the adapter, lubed the grommet with vaseline and installed it next. Then, I installed the fuel level sending unit with the FFR-supplied o-ring and installed that. Here's a picture fuel tank prepped for installation.jpg
Lastly, I purchased a genuine Ford fuel filler tube grommet after hearing about leaks with the non-name-brand part. Here's a picture with numbers in case anyone is interested fuel filler tube grommet1.jpg
Checking my planned rear brake line for fitment issues
Hey Y'all,
My rear brake hardlines will be mounted in a location that had me doubt that the flex lines would fit the wheels/tires without rubbing, so I checked it out! No worries after checking...plenty of room. For those who had similar doubts/concerns, here's a picture of the wheel backside (with the Wilwood brakes on IRS knuckles) rear wheel test fitment3.jpg
I stopped worrying and started marveling at the BEEF of those wide wheels -- Look how far they stick out from the chassis sides! Definitely a lot wider than the original Ace roadsters -- looks like an additional wheel on the outside of the original Ace track width rear wheel test fitment2.jpg
Those are some pretty cool-looking wheels -- got me motivated to keep going on the more mundane tasks! rear wheel test fitment4.jpg
Now that my driver's side footbox panels are fitted, prepped, and off to the powder coater, I got to work on my brake hardline brackets
As I showed in an earlier post, I decided to bend the FFR-supplied brackets to 90 deg and mount them in the "usual" location in the front, but on the top side of the 3/4" square tube, instead of sandwiching the F-panels.
I thought I did all my homework, but my plan was foiled when I learned that I don't have the grip strength to fully seat 3/16" stainless steel rivets -- I measured the clearance for the manual rivet tool, but there just wasn't the clearance with my Milwaukie powered rivet tool
I placed a spare piece of Al panel against my finished F-panels to prevent scratches or dents caused by the rivet tool, and it all worked out, and those stainless rivets really secured those brackets down tight!
Here's some pictures: Passenger-front front passenger brake line bracket.jpg Driver-front front driver brake line bracket.jpg As you can see, I used stainless -3AN bulkhead fittings. I liked the look and shamelessly copied from Mike Bray's setup (but adapted the FFR-supplied brackets by sandwiching properly sized washers to locate the smaller diameter AN fittings). I like how they turned out
I next attempted to design, cut, and bend my annealed stainless brake hardlines for the front brakes (where they join together from the T-fitting)...
I used a Ridgid hardline bender, and while it has great instructions, my bends were not the typical 45deg or 90deg. Nonetheless, the measurements and results worked out just like I wanted!
I tried a simple design (in case I messed up) that only had 3 bends. It fit properly without drama, and of course I'll need to trim the ends for length, install the hardware and then flare for final fitment.
They don't look all that stylish, though I may try some additional bends to make them fit more aesthetically next....anyway, here's a picture from the driver's side looking towards the passenger side through the F-panel gaps front brake line cross-over1.jpg Parallel !!
My next plan is to source some stand-off brackets from Eastwood, since these will be somewhat protected from the elements and will be held horizontally. I'll probably get some aluminum clamshell-type brackets for the underside of the car, since they'll need to be more robust against the elements.
I ended up getting those, but from Eastwood. They kept pestering me with coupons, so I ordered without cross-checking Summit. Oh well...lesson learned
Craig C
PS: Did you feel comfortable using them on your build? Did you change your design when the clamp has to be mounted upside-down, or at least less than horizontal (like on the underside of the chassis)?
It's been a while since I updated my build progress...I decided to get back to fitting panels while waiting for some hardline mounting parts.
I'll re-iterate what other builders have recommended about making sure the panels are not riding on top of frame weld beads (where possible). I needed to file reliefs in the cockpit floor panels on both front and back outside edges, as well as at the rear where it sits on top of the 4"main frame tube. After positioning my floor panels in the horizontal plane for best overall fitment front-to-back and side-to-side, I drilled and cleco'ed at the front frame cross member, then did the same for the outside vertical panels that fit under the door opening, then repeated for the bottom edges of the outside panels. This set the floor panels in x-y space, so I moved on to the rear cockpit panels...
I started with the outside corner pieces since those fit reasonably well against the back corner frame tubes, but I was still aware that other builders had issues getting the top rear edge to all line up properly. Drilled and cleco'ed those, then that set the location for the large rear middle panel. The large middle panel had the bends at the proper marks, but needed to be bent more to fit the frame properly. I clamped some 4' long angle iron to opposite sides of the bend lines and sharpened those bends by hand. Then the middle back panel was drilled and cleco'ed into place. This left only the rear inside corner panels to do, and let me share some pictures...
Sure enough after locking the tunnel sides into place with the "A" panel, I noticed that the carefully measured, drilled, and cleco'ed passenger inside rear corner cockpit panel shifted somehow in all my activity, so I had to slot the holes had to slot the rear passenger inside corner cockpit panel holes.jpg Bummer!
You might've noticed that I didn't start with the small rear piece that covers the driveline u-joint. I want to make this removeable, and since I want the tabs to sit on top, it has to be installed last
While I had plenty of time this past week to work on my Roadster, things just weren't going as hoped..
I was all motivated to bend and flare my brake hardlines and while the overall effort was good, there were setbacks. I'll start with the picture so far first real attempt at rear brake hardlines.jpg
The "good" news: I can straighten out the coiled hardline pretty well with a specialized hand-tool for this purpose. I got it at Eastwood. (Got a similar one for 3/8" fuel lines at another tool supply)... I'm also able to bend and cut to measurements
The "bad" news: it really is challenging to properly flare the SS seamless, annealed lines I got. I guess my 1st test flare was lucky. It's pretty amazing though: The other builders have already gone thru these challenges and have wisdom to impart. It's sometimes a challenge to really hear what they have to share -- like you have to use "feel" to know how far to push that die in before it wants to split. I practiced on about a half-dozen pieces before I got confident to try it "for real".
Now here's the "ugly" part: I flared a beauty, then realized I forgot to put the fastening hardware on. No worries...I'll just cut that one off as close as possible to the end and try again. This time, it split. Arrghhh!
Here's some wisdon I'll impart for those who want to try this with 37 deg single flare on a 3/16" line. The outside diameter of the flare is supposed to be right at 1/4" (plus or minus a few thou)
So, as you're practicing and the flare looks too small...relax and measure it. Chances are that it is correct
This weekend I ended up making a patch panel for my hand-brake panel cut-out, but I'll discuss that more in an upcoming post
Instead, I can update the progress on my brake hardlines. Second time's the charm...the rear brake "cross-over" section is cut, bent, flared, and mounted into chassis clamps
Here's a picture second attempt at rear brake hardlines.jpg notice that I finally attached the flex-lines to the calipers, too. I chose straight adapters so that I wouldn't have to worry about "clocking" them. Still plenty of room around the coil-overs and suspension arms...
Feeling pretty "chuffed", I decided to try the fitment of the front hardline "cross-over" next. My strategy was to allow room to install or replace, be aesthetically-pleasing, and not get in the way of the other things (that I could think of so far...). It turned out just like I wanted, then I needed to design the short section from the pedal bulkhead. This was a little more challenging because I locked myself into the design and had to accommodate for flex and misalignment. I'm pretty happy with the results so far. Here's some pictures front brake hardlines1.jpgfront brake hardlines2.jpgfront brake hardlines3.jpgfront brake hardlines4.jpg [ATTACH=CONFIG]192868
Notice the "wiggle" in the short section along the driver's side 3/4" tube to account for frame flex, installation, and mis-alignment.
Next post: I try to make the rear brake line from the pedal bulkhead
It's been a while since my last post...I've been working on a special project...
In the meantime, I managed to "mostly" finish the panel fitment of the rear cockpit panel. First, I had to make some shims to fit the short 3/4" vertical tubes. Here's some pictures:
passenger-side passenger rear cockpit shim.jpg and driver-side driver rear cockpit shim.jpg
Those set the gaps pretty well and I could finally fit the rear cockpit upper section to the vertical & long horizontal 3/4" tubes. Here's the result rear cockpit upper.jpg
I still need to fit the rear tunnel panel...and then that means fitting the tunnel panel ... I think I'll get an FFR Metal one to tailor-cut the top opening. I'll report back in an upcoming post...
So for you builders out there who have already installed your drop-trunk ...did you "favor" one side or another, or leave it equidistant to the available space, or locate to "center" it to the cut-out access to the tank sending unit, or choose to locate it to get the best drilling and riveting access or ?
I'd like to hear your considerations/trials/tribulations. Feedback welcomed!
Lower trunk panel cut for drop trunk and cleco'ed into place
Hey Y'all,
It's been a while since I posted, so I hope Y'all had a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year!
I decided to locate my drop trunk where it would restore some of the strength that I'd be losing by cutting a perfectly good lower trunk panel, and cut so that the drop trunk flange would have "just enough" clearance to the 3/4" left and rear horizontal trunk tubes. This located the front flange with enough margin so that I could get a drill and (eventual) rivet gun in place. I also considered maximizing the access hole location and aligning to the fuel tank sending unit. Lots of measuring and cutting and notch filing later, I'm happy with the result. Here's a picture: lower trunk panel cut out and clecoed drop trunk.jpg
These parts just got sent to the powder coaters...and I'll have some more to send this week
Not much progress lately...I've been trying to get my tires mounted and my desire to fit the widest tire onto the FFR 18" rims might have bitten me. The 1st tire shop was reluctant to mount them because the stiff sidewalls had to be pinched down to install onto the rims...so off to another tire shop to see if they can do it...in the meantime, I got some trunk panels back from the Powder Coater. Here's a picture: trunk panels powder coated.jpg
I am getting closer to the final decisions on how I want to fasten the cockpit panels to the trans tunnel top panel. I've known for a long time that I want a clean look, yet still be able to remove the trans tunnel top panel for servicing. I had vacillated about fastening the cockpit panels into the trans top panel flange, but decided against it since the trans tubes appear to be somewhat plumb vertically, yet the cockpit panels are not, and there is space to account for carpet thickness in the top panel flanges.
So I decided to drill, cleco and (ultimately rivet) the cockpit panels by themselves to the tunnel tubes only, and leave the top panel to be fastened another way. Here's some pictures:
I've also decided to consider a hinge for the trans tunnel rear panel mounting. Here's a picture of me just getting an idea of what I want to try trans tunnel rear panel idea.jpg That's a section of small stainless piano hinge that I'm considering...
Continuing my OCD...or how I spent the Winter shimming Angelina
Sharp-eyes watchers of my build thread might've noticed a special OCD design element in my last post. Let me explain before zooming in on the detail...
I never liked the pinching of the inside vertical cockpit side panels with the seat belt tabs in the build manual. Originally, I was thinking of an access hole covered by a rubber grommet so that I could securely mount my seatbelts, yet not pinch them with the cockpit panels. However, I like that the standard recommendation is to provide this fastening, so I went with another way to address both the needs of fastening without deforming the panels. So I found wedge-shaped shims at McMaster-Carr and gave them a try. Here's some close-up pictures:
Note the angle is nearly perfect I matched these shims that you see with reversed shims on the backside so that the seat belt bolts will torque down co-axially straight with the nuts(when that time comes). Further, since I'd like to maintain the mocked-up geometry during final installation, I "keyed" the shims with a 1/8" pilot hole to align them to each other and the panel during final assembly torqueing.
My hangup is that I want the panels to be stressed in the x-y plane only (as much as possible). It could be that my panels were bent different than the other builder's kits. Too much gap on those diagonal tubes for me, so I decided against riveting to those tubes...I gotta be me
I got my tires mounted by a local tire retailer/installer who happened to have some installation tips for the next time I need tires mounted. Apparently with the local cold temperatures and the choice of tire with stiff sidewalls, the tires needed some heat to be pliable enough to be mounted -- totally makes sense to me, and I didn't consider it to be a challenge beforehand. Now I know!
It was a risk to choose a such wide front tire, and sure enough, it looks like it will rub the F-panel at full lock new tires rub F-panel at full lock.jpg
After agonizing at my prideful choice that will cause me hassle, I decided on a two-pronged solution: 1) get "fat tire" F-panels from FFMetal, 2) add steering rack travel limiters. I'll have to remove my already-installed F-panels and go thru the process of aligning rivet holes, powder-coating, etc. Oh well...others have had to re-do certain parts of their builds -- I'm no different
The steering rack travel limiters seem to be straightforward to install, although I've never done it. It seems like the toughest challenge will be to re-clamp the boots properly...
Anyway, it sure looks good on the ground, supporting its own weight! it's a roller.jpg
Got my Passenger side Roll Bar & question about cross member H/W
Chris from FFR came thru for me yesterday by shipping me the Passenger-side Roll Bar. I just had to try it out...passenger side rollbar.jpg
Fits well and I think this was the last item that was back-ordered for my build...although on a somewhat related observation, I'm a little confused by the assembly hardware located in the transmission-cross-member box. All the items were accounted for, but the hardware is a little different than the build manual ...
Did anyone else get 3/8" socket head "shoulder" bolts for the cross member?
All this activity to get my tires mounted was leading up to this: I needed to trial fit my drivetrain and having the chassis be a "roller" meant my options for installing the drivetrain by myself opened up a bit. Just like for the IRS installation, I used a combination of tools. This time I used jacks, hoists, ramps, and straps
Some observations: I knew that I needed to protect the radiator support and the firewall, but what surprised me was how tight the fit was for the rectangular tubes that angle up from the main frame to the firewall area. Next time I'll protect those tubes from the get-go! Also, I didn't anticipate that the transmission tail housing might bump into/scratch the main frame tube cross member, so I'll protect that tube from scratches, etc next time...
Here's my choice: Falken Azenis 315/30-18 rear and 275/35-18 front
It was a risk to choose a such wide front tire, and sure enough, it looks like it will rub the F-panel at full lock
After agonizing at my prideful choice that will cause me hassle, I decided on a two-pronged solution: 1) get "fat tire" F-panels from FFMetal, 2) add steering rack travel limiters. I'll have to remove my already-installed F-panels and go thru the process of aligning rivet holes, powder-coating, etc. Oh well...others have had to re-do certain parts of their builds -- I'm no different
The steering rack travel limiters seem to be straightforward to install, although I've never done it. It seems like the toughest challenge will be to re-clamp the boots properly...
Craig C
Hi Craig. I'm running 275/40/R17 on the front and my tires just kiss the F-panels, but only at full lock. I added travel restrictor, but only to even out the lock-to-lock turns on the steering wheel. After 1,300 miles, I decided I'm okay with an occasional slight rub. Just food for thought.
I was careful when loosening the clamp over the boots, so that I was able to clamp it back in place when done.
Congrats on dropping in your drivetrain. Such an enjoyable milestone that really makes the build feel and look like an actual car. Right on!
Chris Coupe complete kit delivered: 4/22/24. Build Thread. Coyote. T-56. IRS w/3.55. Wilwoods. PS. HVAC. Side windows. MK4 Complete kit. Build Thread Index. Delivered: 10/15/2020. Legal: 7/25/23. Coyote Gen3. TKO600 (0.64 OD). IRS w/3.55. PS. Wilwoods. Sway bars. This build is dedicated to my son, Benjamin. Build Thread.
My build plan deviation from the norm can be encapsulated in this post -- I've been thinking and designing an alternative to the standard hand brake location and design. Apologies to builders who may have already designed it like I did -- I really thought this out on my own
My cable bracket mocked into place at the usual location. Note the "horizontal" cable pairing versus the standard "vertical" pairing handbrake cable bracket mockup.jpg
I put the chassis on jack-stands, and sat in the cockpit for a trial effort. 3-clicks up and there was definite brake engagement. 4-clicks and it seemed pretty solid. Actuation and release effort seemed reasonable in the ergonomic arrangement that I had for now. I'd say it is worth pursuing and refining.
Next steps: I need to make another lever bracket to fit with the shifter in the rearward option position. Right now it is in the forward shifter position. There is about a 3" difference between the two. Then, I'll need to drill for nut-serts, and finalize the cable bracket layout -- I don't like the downward trajectory of the cables to the union block. Right now I am taking advantage of the strength and location of the standard cable retainer bracket. I think I can shape it and still take advantage of it for a force retainer of my add-on bracket. Once that is finalized, I'll drill for nut-serts or I might decide to drill all the way thru to use nuts and bolts on the tunnel rear cross tube.
This has been challenging and rewarding, and It's good to see it thru -- I wanted to do this since the build school and chatting with my classmates. Shout-out to Vaughan if you're still reading my posts! Also, FFR please contact me if you're interested in the details. I tried to think how you might do this with the parts and tools you already use
Part 2 of this endeavor focuses on what I did to the standard FFR cable bracket. I needed to cut and file the standard piece to fit my adapter bracket. Here's a few pictures of my new bracket cleco'ed into position new cable bracket fitment.jpgnew cable bracket fitment(2).jpgnew cable bracket fitment(3).jpg Fits well after lots of filing -- it was difficult to get tools in there...
Next, the OEM cable ends did not fit all the way thru the part of the bracket that I retained for strength because the approach angle was now shallower -- it doesn't have to dive down under the main frame cross-member anymore. Here's how it fits when I finished filing out the remaining hole new cable bracket with cables mocked up.jpgnew cable bracket with cables mocked up(2).jpg
Next update, I'll need to create another handbrake bracket since I chose to orient the TKX shifter in the rearward position, then off to media blast and powder coat...
I've been working on getting the driveline angles acceptable for my IRS chassis, and since I chose an Edelbrock Pro-Flo4-4 system, with a Victor Jr single-plane intake manifold, I decided to lower the engine in the chassis by installing a solid engine mount (like FMan did in his build)...I got the mounts from Gordon Levy.
I then temporarily installed the driveshaft (after hoisting the driveline back out a little) and started checking the driveline angles as recommended by the helpful Forum Members (Spicer's driveline calculator). Here's some gratuitous pictures ('cause it looks so cool ) installed driveshaft to set driveline angles.jpg and one to confirm the air filter seems like it will have clearance (once I mock up the body fitment) eyeballing the overall drivetrain height.jpg
I settled on a stack of washers under the trans mount that were about 3/4" tall (conveniently the dimension of spacer plates that Mike Forte sells ). This gave me acceptable height of the rubber shift boot to my "bespoke" Craig Brake mounting plate, and the driveline angles turned out to be: 0.3deg ~ 0.4deg down transmission, 0.7deg up driveshaft, 1.3deg ~ 1.4deg up IRS. This calculated the working angles of the u-joints to be 1.0 ~ 1.1 front and 0.6 ~ 0.7 back, respectively. This was the best compromise and is within acceptable values.
What I found interesting was that if I added or subtracted a single washer in the stack, the number got worse on either side of the adjustment, so I'm calling this done!
In the last post, I mentioned about using solid engine mounts. They are simply made and fit the purpose. I did have to grind a notch in the Driver's side mount since my Dart Windsor block has a boss of some kind that protrudes into the mount area. The mounting holes to the block were spot-on, but the holes for the chassis were a little off. I could get them to fit as-is, but this introduced a sideways twist at the tailshaft housing (towards the passenger side as viewed from above). If you've read my previous posts, I don't like to install things pre-stressed, so I set about to make these fit my chassis as best as possible. The overall adjustment wasn't that much...about 1/8" each side, and when I was finished notching the chassis engine mount holes, it fit well...
Then I decided that I didn't like the potential for getting out-of-alignment since I "hogged out" the mounting holes, so here's what I did. I made "insert keys" to provide a little more secure and positive location of the mounting bolts.
Not so fast! Lessons learned from going back to unfinished brakeline project
Hey Y'All,
I got a little too clever for my own good when I thought I had my brake line architecture all figured out. Since I'm waiting for a bracket to be bent, I went back to resume work on my brake hardlines. It's a good thing I did! I found out that I made my choices without thinking five steps ahead -- silly me
Mistake 1) not realizing that my "grid-pattern" rivet locations on the Driver's side front panel did not jive with the brake pedal bracket. This picture shows the red "x" rivet locations that will have to be changed to button-head screws. No biggie, but a setback driver's side front panel rivet hole issue.jpg
Mistake 2) not realizing that the existing bulkhead holes, while VERY tempting to repurpose as brake hardline bulkhead fitting locations, will necessitate me filing out the pedal bracket to allow fitment/access for the front brake hardline inside the footbox area. Area to file out shown in red marker driver's side front panel bulkhead fitting issue.jpg
I'm pretty sure my remedies will work out, but it is frustrating to not be able to think ahead as far as needed...
Since I resumed my work on the brake hardline project, I needed to fit the pedal assembly again, and while I "was in there", I mocked-up the RT-tribute Accel Pedal (Thanks TJ!), and what I'll call the "Jim Clutch Pedal Stop". Here's a picture pedal mockup w-Jim clutch stop and RT-style Accel pedal.jpg
My interpretation is a little different than Jim Frahm's, but the essence is the same: clamp design and the use of a threaded rod. I used cut down, filed, and drilled angle iron and all-thread. I cushioned the threaded part with heat-shrink tubing. Here's another angle Craig's interpretation of the Jim clutch stop.jpg
This is all-the-way forward. In This position, there's about 3/16" gap to that angled 3/4" engine compartment mid frame tube. I still don't know how much travel I'll need for the Forte' slave cylinder, so I'm hoping I don't have to re-make this piece...but I know how if I have to. What makes this work for me was I filed a groove in one piece and a beveled edge on the other so the two pieces would align themselves together as the bolt was tightened
Happy Building!
Craig C
Last edited by cc2Arider; 03-04-2024 at 06:33 AM.
Reason: name correction; tube correction
I've been kinda dreading working on my brake hardlines since it seems so difficult to get a good flare on my SS lines. It's frustrating to measure and bend the lines in 3-d space to fit well...only to have the last part of the effort go south because I introduced a small crack in the flare. Today went no different, but I'll consider it a success anyway because I got the line fitting like I want going from the driver's side floor panel all the way to the back where I had already locked-in the location of the flex line junctions. I accommodated for the use of Aluminum brackets, but these were just taped into place temporarily. The big success for me today was fishing the bent contraption into position -- it actually wasn't too bad. I just had to remove the rear wheel (which needed to be done anyway) Here's some pictures fitment of the rear brake hardline1.jpgfitment of the rear brake hardline2.jpgfitment of the rear brake hardline3.jpg
Next challenge: since I already decided that I was going to use a bulkhead fitting for the floor panel, and the location was chosen to be right in front of the round bent driver's side floor panel tube, I realized that there might not be enough room to get a wrench into there! I measured what I could before drilling, and I don't think a flare wrench can get in there and "swing" wide enough. If this is to work, I'll need to get a ratcheting box-end-wrench on that fitting instead. This means that I'll need to tighten the fitting down and then slide out the wrench on the unassembled top part of the line -- this means that whatever line I choose, the other side must allow the wrench to come out. This rules out 90deg fittings at the top -- Darn! hole location needed for rear brake bulkhead fitting.jpg
It's funny how easy it is to get into trouble when you deviate from the script!
My last posts identified some problems that I created for myself that would have to be solved: 1) a few of the Driver's side front panel rivet holes were right in front of the pedal bracket assembly, 2) I needed to figure out how to finish the rear brake line as it exited out the bottom of the Driver's side floor panel.
Solution 2): drill into the inner front corner (as designed), leaving enough room for wrenches, yet still well out of the way of pedals and feet. Ensure that it can be maintained (fittings tightened, or lines replaced) after the car is finished. Make an offset flare nut wrench from a cheapy HoBo box-end wrench. Here's some pictures:
Homemade offset flare nut wrench (using an offset box-end wrench as the starting point) homemade offset flarenut wrench.jpg, mocked-up rear brake line bulkhead fitting (with test of new wrench) rear brake bulkhead mocked up onto driver's footbox.jpg, and the view from ground level rear brake bulkhead mocked up onto driver's footbox2.jpg
Next problem to solve: relieving an area on top of the brake pedal bracket for the front brake bulkhead fitting...
A few posts back I identified a mistake in using an existing footbox bulkhead hole as a pass-thru for one of my brakelines. The hole was too close to the pedal assembly bracket to be used for that purpose...
Some quality time with a die grinder and files after work resulted in this solution:
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Here's a picture 
Definitely a lot wider than the original Ace roadsters -- looks like an additional wheel on the outside of the original Ace track width 
I may try some additional bends to make them fit more aesthetically next....anyway, here's a picture from the driver's side looking towards the passenger side through the F-panel gaps 
Well-made and simple...just the ticket!
Originally Posted by cc2Arider
