More progress made on the body : )

[VD2021]

Mike,
Nice work.

Its hard to tell from the pictures, but it looks like the motor is positioned just right to allow clearance of the interior door handle?

[sk7500]

That's some really great work Mike. I thought about doing something like that but then I looked at all the other things I needed to do and decided that was going to "later" list

[mikespms]

Mike,
Nice work.

Its hard to tell from the pictures, but it looks like the motor is positioned just right to allow clearance of the interior door handle?

Hi Mike,

Did you connect the rods from the door latch to the door handle with the door panel on? I tried that spot on my doors and the rods from the door latch to the door handle got in the way but I used the corvette striker instead of the one from factory five.

[The Stig]

Hi Mike,

Did you connect the rods from the door latch to the door handle with the door panel on? I tried that spot on my doors and the rods from the door latch to the door handle got in the way but I used the corvette striker instead of the one from factory five.

Hi Mike. I'm not planning to use the same layout for the door handles as the original door panels. We'll see how it ends up...

[sk7500]

Rework is never as much fun as the initial building but a lot more fun than pushing a broken supercar.
I've done what you're doing and it works great. I didn't find a good way to route the hoses at the catch tank with the supplied fittings. One more thing on the list of things to do.

[crash]

sk7500- Good info to know. If you would please, post some pics of what you ultimately end up with so I can consider modifications to the items I include in the kits.

Thanks.

[VD2021]

Rework is never as much fun as the initial building but a lot more fun than pushing a broken supercar.
I've done what you're doing and it works great. I didn't find a good way to route the hoses at the catch tank with the supplied fittings. One more thing on the list of things to do.

Yeah,

I found those hose runs to be a challenge also. I have different fittings for the bottom of the tank and I actually ended up going through the side of the aluminum panel. Maybe these pics will help someone.

[The Stig]

Yeah,

I found those hose runs to be a challenge also. I have different fittings for the bottom of the tank and I actually ended up going through the side of the aluminum panel. Maybe these pics will help someone.

The 5/8" hose from the water pump to the by-pass valve:
I ran that hose in a loop back under the engine and a/c Compressor and into the tunnel, in an attempt to keep it as horizontal as I can. Hopefully by doing it will help to prevent air pockets.

For the 5/8" hose coming back from the by-pass valve to the over flow tank:
I started to cut through the aluminum panel as well, but I ran it back along the engine cover frame on the driver's side and then made a loop back to the T-Fitting. I'll use hose connectors as you did, to keep the hose next to the frame and away from the serpentine belt.

The 3/4" heater line from the water pump:
This line runs accross the engine (between the intake manifold and the accessory brackets), and straight into the 3/4" barb on the T-Fitting. I have my steam vent routed exactly as you did yours.

I plan to run a 3/8" hose from the Canton overflow tank (neck):
to the top right (overflow) of the radiator.

There is also a 1/2" connection (top right of the radiator) that I can add the draincock to, in order to release any trapped air from the radiator.

OR... I could add the original Corvette Overflow tank, to use as a purge tank. Is anyone else doing that?

One thing that I was concerned about, was flow direction through the heater core. I couldn't find any place that mentioned which line should be connected to which heater core connection. So I called Vintage Air. I was a little surprised to find out that there is no particular flow direction (in/out). So it doesn't matter how they're connected to the heater core connections.

So all I need to do now, is make the correct wiring connections for the Vacuum Solenoid, and figure out where the vacuum line runs from that solenoid to the intake manifold...

Thanks Vidal.

[sk7500]

Don't worry Mike you're closer to the FFR open house than I'll ever be. 😣

[The Stig]

Rework is never as much fun as the initial building but a lot more fun than pushing a broken supercar.
I've done what you're doing and it works great. I didn't find a good way to route the hoses at the catch tank with the supplied fittings. One more thing on the list of things to do.

Hi Steve,

That's pretty much the same train of thought that I try to hang onto. Better to find it and fix it in the garage that on the side of the highway with all the picture takers laughing at the broken down Super Car.

As far as the fittings, I have to agree. I didn't buy the brass fittings kit to go along with the Header Tank kit. I used what was already there. My issue is that Like most of us, I have the post pump fuel filter mounted on the deck just below the overflow tank. I also have the Cold Air intake tube running through the same space. So I'm trying to work inside of those pieces. It's not so bad as long as you have the cockpit wall out of the car.

I guess the thing that got my attention more than anything else, is the fact that the upper heater core connection was only finger tight. No coolant is about the easiest way that i know of to cook a brand new engine.

But... I found it, and now it's fixed. $200.00 vs. $8,000.00.

Life is good.

[The Stig]

Hi Mike,

Did you connect the rods from the door latch to the door handle with the door panel on? I tried that spot on my doors and the rods from the door latch to the door handle got in the way but I used the corvette striker instead of the one from factory five.

Hi Mike,

The interior door handle (passenger side) has just enough room to work. We made a bracket that we could use to mount/screw the handle into. I didn't like the idea of using only the fiberglass of the door panel to secure the handle. Once the correct spot was located to mount the handle, another bracket was made that would hold an aluminum slide. The connector rod would slide through this piece, keeping it from vibrating or rattling while driving down the road. Everything fits inside the plane of the door panel. Then the rod was bent into the correct shape to clear the bars and window. The donor "rod-clips" were used to secure the ends into the handle and the bearclaw latch.









As I mentioned previously, I'm planning to have new door panels made, so I just mounted the door handles to the new brackets until then. But, the panels do fit the door with these pieces in place, if I should decide to use them afterall.

One thing that I didn't realize, because it never occured to me, was when I pull the handle inside the car, the exterior door handle also opens. And visa/versa. It looks kind of goofy to me. but I guess that's what you get with these latches. (That and the inability to lock the door).

I don't have a picture, but we also made brace that runs the length of the upper door section. It's 1/8" x 1.0" flat steel. The rear end is bent to a 90 degree angle and mounts at the rear of the door, as well as the connector points for the window tracks. This made the upper piece of fiberglass very much more stable (solid), and holds the edge away from the glass. There is a fairly consitent gap at the rear, for an adheasive backed seal.

The glass is now positioned so that it seals all the way around the upper seal perfectly. Now, I'm in the process of trying to find a good "overlap" seal for the front edge of the window, as well as a good seal for the rear edge.

So, the passenger door is back together, and is aligned and closing perfectly. It has a Very solid thump when it closes.


Hope this helps. It's what we needed to do get everything working as it should.