GTM roll cage modifications and race car build log

[Kempo]

Impresive work John. I really like the quality of your welds. You have talent.

[Radkat]

Does anyone have information on installing an electronic LS3 Gas Pedal to the GTM?
Is there a bracket or information available or is it just "Do the best you can to fit it on the pedal box?
Thanks for any feedback.

Radkat

[Kempo]

Does anyone have information on installing an electronic LS3 Gas Pedal to the GTM?
Is there a bracket or information available or is it just "Do the best you can to fit it on the pedal box?
Thanks for any feedback.

Radkat

I'm using the LS3 on mine. You need to install two riv-nuts in the fire wall and use the provided template. Here is a link to what I had to do.

redirecting to that link in order to not hijack John's cage thread.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ll=1#post30822

[Radkat]

Thanks Kempo for the information.
It looks like the mounting bracket and gas pedal for the LS3 Erod is different.
I appreciate the quick response and information.
Radkat

I'm using the LS3 on mine. You need to install two riv-nuts in the fire wall and use the provided template. Here is a link to what I had to do.

redirecting to that link in order to not hijack John's cage thread.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ll=1#post30822

[crash]

Definitely looks better than the S bar.

I would consider leaving the passanger side upper bar out entirely. You have tons of crush space between you and the passanger door, and including the lower frame rail in the equation, you already have two side bars there. If they say anything, just run a couple of stringers from upper to lower and you are good.

Still not sure if the main hoop flies, but if the scrutoneer says it's good...then it's good!

[kabacj]

Mike, Jacob, Hugo, and Hank thanks for the support.

Hank I will surely get video of the first start.

I cant belive its almost ready.

John

[kabacj]

Yesterday was snow blowing and shoveling all day long to remove the 20 inches of snow. Even my truck without a plow got into the act.


Today it was time to get some work done on the GTM. A few months ago I had installed a piece of lexan just to close up the window. But the fact that the window opening was not perfectly oval bothered me.

So out came the bulkhead. I pulled out the lexan and started reshaping the opening. A while back, I had attached a strip of aluminum to the stock opening in order to fit the roof bars.



So I needed to weld up a patch in each corner before I moved the semi circle that makes each end of the window about a half inch downward.



Next was trim a half inch off the bottom half of the window. I welded up all of the holes I will not use and installed the window.



So with that sorted I decided I needed a activated carbon canister to prevent the vent on the gas tank from releasing fumes.

I machined up some parts and used a length of tubing I had left over from making my cooling system pipes. A little welding and i had this. I glued some open cell foam to the bottom of the canister to prevent any of the carbon bits from falling into the tank.



I was able to use the hole in the rear hatch mount to attach the canister. A small length of Tygon fuel resistant tubing forms a flexible joint between the canister and the tank.



I purchased some crankcase vent filters and one to the hole in the top of the canister and here it is.



John

[kabacj]

After lots of thinking, I realized that the S bend top bar would be less strong then a straight tube. (see post 45 for a picture) Of course the S would bend over instead of pulling the verticals in.
I spoke with "Hank" from the forum here who has much more experience at this than I. He pointed out that the top of the S would be near my helmet and its better to hit your head on a net then a bar.

So change of plans. I decided to go back to basics. I built a cage in tape to see how it would relate to other parts.



That looked pretty good so i made the top bar out of steel. I decided to go up to .120 wall tubing for the door bars. A few extra lbs here are worth the extra stiffness in my book.




The front tips down so I can still exit in a dignified manner when driving on the street.

I was thinking of making the passenger bar even lower. I will not have passengers on the track and for street use this bar is easy to get over. The last thing I want to hear is my wife complaining that its hard to get in and out of the car.

note the front of the passenger bar nearly intersects with the lower door bar.



I am not sure if this is NASA or SCCA legal. If anybody knows I wold be glad to hear it.

I will run both sides by my local scrutineer to make sure he is happy with it before I weld it in.

John

[kabacj]

Impresive work John. I really like the quality of your welds.

Thanks Hugo.

One thing i did learn about the stock frame. The stock factory five welds are SOOOO much thicker and stronger then necessary. Thats a good thing.

When I cut off the 1 inch square tubing I had a whole lotta grinding to do in order to remove the stout welds that factory five puts on each and every attachment point.

We surely dont need to worry about cold welds or poor penetration on the stock frame. Each Factory five weld had a 1/4 inch thick bead with perfect penetration every time.

The factory five weld quality is one thing you can only see when you cut the car apart. It sure made this job harder, however it made me feel good about the quality of the welds I did not cut apart.

John