Lucky's 33 Hot Rod build #524

[myjones]

Dale, thanks, do you know how far the hood aligning pins or holes are from the edge of the firewall? I haven't seen any posted measurements on this; it might bite me, i will just have to figure a way around it then. Nevin

Really rough number from looking at my hood since I haven't drilled the firewall yet
3.5" in and 3" down is a ballpark number, hopefully someone will tighten that up for you.
Dale

[H R Lucky]

I searched out the hardware for the hood and mocked it up with duct tape, as far as I can see the pin hole is 3 1/4 in from the edge of the cowl/firewall & I have 4 1/4 in. to the edge of my reservoirs so I should be good, at least I am telling myself that. Thanks for the heads up Dale.

Nevin

[myjones]

I searched out the hardware for the hood and mocked it up with duct tape, as far as I can see the pin hole is 3 1/4 in from the edge of the cowl/firewall & I have 4 1/4 in. to the edge of my reservoirs so I should be good, at least I am telling myself that. Thanks for the heads up Dale.
Nevin

It's a real challenge to get them just right when they mount out there because of the frame tube inside limiting how far inboard they can be mounted and trying to keep them as high as possible to help get air out of the system. You have the further challenge of a third reservoir adding to that. The Kugels I used have a different cap that is now at the machine shop getting a bigger chamfer cut on the lids so it won't rub the paint off the bottom of the hood rib. It's that close to the hood and frame both.

This may be one of the changes I suggest to Jim S. for the Gen 2 33 chassis. We have already talked about that area becoming a bent tube VS welded sections we have now.

I'm very much against cutting the big hole in the cowl and mounting them inside because of all the issues with water getting in under the dash. There have been a couple cars that had the fusebox get soaked because of that access plate design.
Dale
Better mouse traps please

[H R Lucky]

Trying to get most of the wiring out of the way, I had headlights,(hi-lo beam) tailights, brake lights, park lights, running lights, but no turn signals or hazzard lights; also the horn didn't work either. After trouble shooting & scratching my head for about a week, I was thinking there was something wrong in the I-didit column, I called FFR and Dan suggested that I put in the original flashers instesd of the LED flashers, while I was removing them I read some fine print on the flasher; it said 'input line X should be connected to a fused circuit' right then I had a brain awakening as I knew from trouble shooting that the other wire to the flasher was coming from the fuse box, so I switched the wires in the connector & lo & behold the turn signals started working! It was the same problem with the Hazzards, switched the wires and the 4 ways worked now also! The last problem was the horn which I found out from one of the forum members (erlihemi) that it was missing the little black plastic barrel connector with the spring loaded ground wire for the horn. I was able to get one from a vendor at a car show this weekend & that fixed the horn. Getting these problems out of the way is a load off my plate, So, next will be to install & connect the gauges.

[H R Lucky]

Finally got my gauges hooked up & functioning, still need to tidy up the wiring.

[H R Lucky]

Build Update: Life keeps throwing curves at you whether you are ready or not, I was off the build for a couple months for my wife's surgery, she's doing better now.
Installed the speed dial modification from Ford Tech, I didn't have to buy the speed dial black box as my transmission (MT-82) has the OSS signal coming from the output shaft.
It was very tedius to get those pins crimped and set into the PCM connector.
Installed the E-brake cable, had to add some length to the E-brake leverage bars as the brake cable clevis assy. was hitting the frame bracket that holds the E-brake assy.

pictures attached:

[MickHope]

Hi Nevin. Superb build, pictures and thread mate, you have helped me a great deal. Thank you. Im doing the same build as you only using IRS instead of a solid rear. Just wondering how you mated the clutch line to the MT82. Mine has this weird platic pipe connection. And then how do you bleed it? I ended up buying an MGW Short conversion shifter, a late birthday present. I was going to modify the original as well but my local Ford guy said throw it in the bin, its more trouble than it's worth. Interesting what you did with drive shaft. I want to try and leave as much stock Mustang parts on there as I can. So I am leaving the yokes unchanged and modifying the stock drive shaft. I was thinking about the drive shaft protection too, how to protect myself from an angry broken drive shaft at 7000rpm. I'm going to use your idea if that ok.

Thanks in advance.

[H R Lucky]

Thanks for the good comments.
Are you asking about the clutch master cyl. to the hydraulic throw out bearing connection?
I bought a McLeod flex line with a connector on the end to fit a 2011 Mustang plus an AN4 inverted flair adapter.
To bleed the clutch line, get your left leg in shape, set in the drivers position and push & release the clutch a bunch of times, approx 75 to 100, this will bleed the line.

Nevin