Lucky's 33 Hot Rod build #524

[esff32]

Got it, I had a feeling it something to do with your specific application...carry on!

[rcotner]

Great info Nevin. I like the dynaliner. I sprayed the outside of my firewall with lizardskin. I think, after looking at your pictures, that I will put fatmat vibration insulation on the inside and put dynaliner on top of that. I read on the dynamat web site that dynaliner can be used under the carpet as a carpet pad. Seems like that might be a good solution to the floor heat from the exhaust problem. Any thoughts?

[H R Lucky]

Great info Nevin. I like the dynaliner. I sprayed the outside of my firewall with lizardskin. I think, after looking at your pictures, that I will put fatmat vibration insulation on the inside and put dynaliner on top of that. I read on the dynamat web site that dynaliner can be used under the carpet as a carpet pad. Seems like that might be a good solution to the floor heat from the exhaust problem. Any thoughts?

Yes, I plan on using the Dynaliner on the floor under the carpet, it will be awhile until I get to that point though.

[donshapansky]

Hi Nevin:
I'm using a Coyote and have installed the A/C compressor like yours have you sourced connectors for your compressor? or maybe you are not going with A/C?

Don (Texas)

[H R Lucky]

No, I haven't sourced the A/C connectors yet, but I believe Mike Everson has on a customer Hot Rod build he is doing, maybe send him a PM or go to his build page entitled "Started a new Hot Rod build today".

[48prerunner]

sorry pic came out so big but only ones I've found so far are from Sean Hyland Motorsport, they are $149 which I thought was a little high. Have you guys found any other place? I'm still wondering if the f150 compressor has the older style fittings.

[H R Lucky]

Well it's been 9 months since I have updated this build thread; one of my daughters had some serious legal problems that I had to take care of and I had to put the build on hold for 8 months; I am glad that 2014 is over and hope 2015 is much more enjoyable.
Back in November I did get a couple of days working on the Hot Rod and installed some adjustable upper and lower control arms I purchased from Dr. Ruth.

a few pictures are attached:

[H R Lucky]

In January I started on the wiring, I decided to put my fuse box above the pedal box as my reservoirs are on the out side firewall; this way I can change fuses without having to crawl under the dash. Also installed the condenser for the AC, currently trying to figure out how and where I am going to install the overflow tank.

pictures:

[wallace18]

Coming along very nice. Great job!

[H R Lucky]

We have had a rough winter, all the way through the end of March we were in the single digits temperature so needless to say not much work was done on the Hot Rod during that time frame. Since April I have been getting time to work on it & did manage to get some of the wiring done while working toward first start. Got the PCM connected, installed the battery, cut off switch, fuel lines, radiator hoses, filled with oil & coolant, etc.

pictures attached:

[mjazzka]

I like how neat the build is, keep it up! Also, I like the shifter knob, very unique

[wallace18]

Glad to see you back on it! Looking Good!

[BASmith]

Nevin,

Great looking build! Happy to hear the weather is moderating out there and you're able to resume work on the car! As you are getting close to "first start", where did you mount the oil filter? The remote filter mount sent with the kit will not let the filter "can" fit in the space F5 suggests.

Thanks !

Bruce

[H R Lucky]

Thanks guys,
Bruce - I put the filter right on the block where it normally goes, I picked up a filter for a Cadillac CTS-V and it fits right on the block, it's a short one.
Yes, I actually did my first start a little over a week ago but I am having trouble getting my shaky video posted, will probably get it posted tonight.

thanks,
Nevin

[H R Lucky]

About 2 weeks ago I thought I had everything done to complete the first start, I went through my check list - PCM mounted & connected, power distribution box wired & mounted, battery installed, ignition switch wired, enough of the wiring harness completed to accomplish the start, I even mounted the stock mustang airbox & MAF sensor (even though it stuck out way past the side of the engine bay) So, I turn on the key, I see the PCM green light come on, I here the fuel pump running, check the pressure - it was at 60 so i adj. back to 55 psi. turn the key to start, it starts turning the engine over which means the PCM likes what he sees after checking the sensors, etc. but it was to no avail, no-start, it just kept cranking & cranking. The next day I called Ford Racing tech support, they had me run a separate ground wire from the PCM all the way to the negative side of the battery, had me check the voltage on the fuel injectors, it checked 12 v like it should, then they had me get some NOID lights and connect them to the injectors (basically they check that the injectors are getting a ground to the other side), this test failed; they suggested I get a new crank trigger sensor which I did, replaced it and still no start! Ford Racing sent me a wiring diagram-pin out of the engine harness (the problem was that the injectors were not getting a ground from the PCM - each injector is grounded at the correct time in the intake stroke so the plug can fire the fuel charge but none of my injectors were getting the ground from the PCM, this sequence is supposed to be kicked off by the crank sensor detecting the engine is turning over. So I started removing connectors & wiring sheaths to ohm out the individual wires. To save you the boredom of the details, I found 7 broken wires in the harness from the engine to the PCM, I soldered them back together and heat shrinked them & wrapped them back into the bundle. After that I reconnected the PCM, etc. and the next time I hit the start, It FIRED RIGHT UP! What a relief. (This is a used engine/transmission & apparently whoever deinstalled it used a crow bar to disconnect the PCM) Note: this whole process took about a week to complete, so this has to be the longest first start in history!

Pictures attached & link below to shaky video:
https://youtu.be/sGlFn5f8sJo

[Andy33tt]

The thing sounds great, nice job

[H R Lucky]

Thanks Andy, Jay, & Tom,
Yesterday I received the parts from Summit & got the air intake & filter installed, it fits pretty good, runs good; picture attached.

When I go carted the chassis, I noticed the steering had a bind in it at a certain point of a turn; even after connecting all of the wiring for the power steering, it still has a bind, I think it's in one of the U-joints but I took it all apart & checked for metal to metal contact, found none. I disconnected all of the U-joints and it's not in the first 2 starting at the steering wheel, also the electra-steering unit itself is not biding, it seem to start when I connect the 3rd & 4th U-joints (starting at the steering wheel) but I cannot see anything touching when turning the wheel, I am at a loss for the cause. Did any of you who put the Coyote in the Hot Rod have a similar problem? (because the steering setup for the Coyote has one extra U-joint to get around the headers)

pics:

[amasciarelli21]

1 also have the coyote set up, no binding on my go carting adventure but from your pictures your angle on those joints may be a little steep.

Ang

[erlihemi]

Those joints look very tight. Couple things to check. 1 would be to make absolutely sure the DD shaft doesn't extend into the body of the joint and make contact at some point in the turn. 2 I would try sliding the split collars down the tube a little to get less angle. this may require adjustment to the short DD next to the firewall. I used your dynaliner photo for reference and that joint next to the PS unit looks the tightest.

[H R Lucky]

Ok I dissembled the U-joints and moved the pillow block with the split collars down the frame tube about 2 inches & had to cut the short D shaft going to the U-joint at the firewall. The hardest part was trying to drill the holes for the locking bolts that go through the clamps because I originally drilled these holes before I installed the engine but now I couldn't even get a short drill between the tube and the headers so I marked the frame tube on both sides and drilled straight through from the outside of the frame all the while I was hoping I would come through the inside tube at the correct spot & everything worked out ok. So it doesn't bind up anymore. Thanks for the help guys.

Before & after pictures attached:

[chazwall]

Looks great. Can't wait to start my build. Still saving my pennys

[erlihemi]

Nevin, i'm glad that worked for you!

[3dGuy]

I just installed the ujoints in my coyote build. I think I ended up placing mine about the same location as yours. How far down from the top of the shaft to the pillow block? How well does it clear your headers? I won't be getting my coyote for a few months so I have been guessing up until now.

[H R Lucky]

After moving mine to correct spot, it is 4 & 3/4 in. from upper left clamp to upper left weld joint; and from lower right clamp to lower right weld joing = 9 & 3/4 in. this gives about 1/2 inch clearance to FFR BBK header. which seems to be plenty of clearance to me.

[H R Lucky]

Well it's been quite a while since I have posted on my build, over a year & a half; I actually have done some work on the hot rod over that time but for the most part, I have not been able to work on it. My wife & I have both had medical problems, she was actually in ICU for a week & in the hospital for 2 months with lots of recovery time so you have to change your priorities in life. Things are getting back to normal now, she is still recovering but getting better. So over the past couple of months I have been able to get about half of the wiring done & I made a hinged panel to mount the PDM under the dash, then be able to lower it down so I can see the LEDs after the body is on. I also moved the Electra Steer control module onto my hinged panel.
I will have more upgrades in the next couple of weeks.

pictures:

[erlihemi]

Nevin, good to hear from you. I like that hinged panel. Keep at it!!

[wallace18]

Glad both of you are doing better! Keep up the posts. Godspeed.

[WIS89]

Nevin-

So sorry to hear about the medical challenges. Very pleased that they are behind you; I hope they stay that way!

Glad to hear you are back at your build. Your car is way too cool not to finish her up!

Thanks for keeping us updates, and posting your progress.

Regards,

Steve

[H R Lucky]

build update - I had to replace the clutch master cyl. couldn't get enough travel out of the .75 in. cyl., I replaced with a 1.125 in. it works fine now. also, I decided to replace the original mufflers after hearing all the stories about fiberglass chicken feathers blowing out the pipes; I went with the Flow Master HP2's because of the cool temp technology as they will be right under my seat. (thanks to Glenn Somers for the idea)
I also trimmed my FBW original Ford gas pedal, I did not modify it like the manual says to, instead I just mounted it against the firewall in it's original shape & it works fine except it was a little long so I trimmed the bottom for more room against the floor.

Pictures:

[myjones]

Nevin
I wonder what Glenn's up to. I always enjoyed his posts.
Let us know how the sound is from those mufflers, they should be the new FF mufflers to replace the cotton candy machines.
Dale

[H R Lucky]

Since I will be sitting in the car with my leg & thigh about 3 in. from the drive shaft with not too much protection between it and my leg; I decided to install a drive shaft protection loop. I bought the chrome moly tubing from Aircraft Spruce, 1 in. for the loop & 1.25 in for the side supports, had a local guy bend it for me then I welded it together & had it powder coated, then welded it to the frame, I think it is pretty sturdy & gives me peace of mind. I also added some 12 gauge steel floor panels for seat mounting.

pictures:

[myjones]

Nevin
Nice job; I like the way you made the drop out section for ease of repairs just don't know if it will pass scrutiny with NHRA.

I built a hoop for mine too but I put it within 6" of the front U-joint like the sanctioning bodies require. Mine's not quite legal either
because it's 2 overlapping hoops of 270* circles instead of the style the NHRA demands. I still feel a lot better having something
between my hip and that meat hammer if it ever comes apart. I cut the top off of my FF hoop just like you did but mines not for
a nifty shifter mount like yours it's just for ease of service and to minimize the tunnel height for a future console.
Loving the pictures
DB

[wallace18]

Very nice! I like that shifter knob! I guess it is getting a little warmer up there in PA. I was there in Feb. Too cold for me, LOL.

[H R Lucky]

Very nice! I like that shifter knob! I guess it is getting a little warmer up there in PA. I was there in Feb. Too cold for me, LOL.

Thanks Tom, that knob is a Speed Dawg shifter knob, it has a Bull Dog likeness on top.
The guy who owns the company is local to me, about 5 miles away but it is a world wide company & has lots of different knobs. (speeddawg dot c0m)
yes, we had some cold days but also some very warm days in Feb. last week I think it was Wed. it was 74 degrees! then on Sunday morning it was 12deg.
You never know from one day to the next what kind of weather you will be getting.

Nevin

[H R Lucky]

update, trying to get the body in shape & aligned for mounting. The body does not conform to the firewall at the corners, filled in with body filler with long strand fiberglass, about 90% done with that procedure, also did the 1/4 inch cut to the notch at the bottom of the passenger side of the body at the firewall which helped so I didn't have to file the firewall, also there is a bulge just above the corner of the pass side firewall so I am flattening that out so it looks right.(credit goes to Dr. Ruth for these changes). I had a rough time getting the frame & body level & square all at the same time; I think I have it now but haven't bolted everything down yet. also 1st attempt at positioning gauges, I will have 7 including clock.

Question for those who have squared & aligned their body before mounting; where did you put the mounting bolts, other than the firewall & rear corners which I know about? What size & type of bolts, & how many?

a few pics:

[H R Lucky]

Thanks for the comments,
I'm not too worried weather it passes NHRA or others, I won't be racing, just have it for piece of mind.

Nevin

[erlihemi]

Nevin n DB,

My drive shaft is shorter and the u joint is next to my thigh so I made 3 aluminum plates to fit inside the tunnel braces. I should have cut 3/4" off the top of the front brace and pushed it to the passenger side, but that occurred to me too late.
This would have given me room to stuff the remnants of my previous tranny grenade blanket between the Kirkey seat and the tunnel. Or at least let my hand get down the side of the seat to fetch dropped French fries. I didn't do the hoop because I wasn't willing to give up the room next to the seat. With the hoop slightly offset to the passenger side I could not get the seat and belt on that side to fit...easily. I guess I wasn't motivated enough that day.

[NAZ]

Y'all that have planned ahead and made driveshaft loops or other protection in case of a u-joint failure are smart. I've had two driveshafts explode on me and it's amazing how much damage they can do. Having one let go right next to your legs would be terrifying. The original FFR design is not nearly sturdy enough to contain a driveshaft failure at speed. I have an NHRA compliant loop at the front as required for my Super Pro build and one at mid span for my own piece of mind. Then I am fabricating an 1/8" tunnel section over the drive shaft as a ballistic shield. And finally, I'm using an aluminum shaft that is lighter (less kinetic energy if it explodes) and softer (less chance of penetrating the ballistic cover). Having experienced a couple of driveshaft failures I'm a bit more cautious now.

[wallace18]

I added some large washers in the rear to have more surface area to grab. I also drilled some holes in them and epoxy them to the inside of the body for support. In the front I used rivnuts where I could not get to nuts inside of top access panels. I had my front ones spaced about 3-4 inches apart
see post 82 in my build thread.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...33-build/page3

[myjones]

Nevin
Those reservoirs look like they will be in the way of the hood aligning pin where it hits the firewall ?
I like the dash layout that's close to what I have in mind as well with the big 2 there and the rest off to the side.

Looking back through your struggle with the Coyote vs steering shafts it looks like you should have mounted the unisteer
on the firewall where the bearing mount is. The trick there is to have a 15* wedge behind it to unbind the first joint. That
pushes the shaft forward enough that it jogs around the Coyote much like it had to jog around my Hemi. It's really where
the unisteer belongs and seems to work with any engine and not conflict with any oil pan either.

Dale
Hemi33