Carl's Mk 4 Roadster Build

[carlewms]

My new assistant started today in the garage providing support for the build. He kept whispering ideas that I quite frankly had not given the level of thought I should have.
å
Here is telling me that I should have thought about picking those parts while I was in town ... and that I should get him some more grain to incentivize him to work harder as my assistant.



I am sure the gang on this forum will come up with more choice advice for the goat to give me.

Carl

[carlewms]

In the spirit of two steps forward; one step back...

I had previously set up my brake and clutch reservoirs using braided hose connecting them to the master cylinders. After further research, I decided to go back to a more original rubber hose connection...not to mention my less than reliable skill at putting these connections together.

Luckily, I can use some of the parts from the FFR base kit (banjo fitting with a 3/8" barb fitting) on the master cylinder end. These will be connected to the reservoirs via 3/8" ID rubber hose.



I ordered 3/8" NPT 90 deg elbows with a 3/8" barb end from Summit to fit on the bottom of the reservoir cans.



Another mod on the drivers side foot box started. Last week when I was testing the seat options, I noticed that I could benefit from a dead pedal and a little more room to left of my clutch pedal. On the Mk 4, there is not very much room between the foot box and the side of the body.

Again, the value of the forums helped me out. Others have found enough space to expand the outside panel by 3/4" at the bottom and 1.5" at the top.

After laying out the area to expand, I used the same technique that I used on the inside panel of the foot box, cutting three sides, and bending out the the fourth side for the expansion. Here are the results so far:



My 3 in 1 Combination Brake, Shear and Roller comes in tomorrow which will permit me to get the rest of the sheet metal bits bent and ready to rivet in place.



Carl

[DaleG]

Love the goat! Priceless.

[CraigS]

Wow, I wish Nokesville were closer to Annapolis so you could become my new best friend. That combination machine looks fantastic.

[carlewms]

I received my shipment from Cobra Restorers and Finish Line... Both provided excellent service. Cobra Restorers is definitely more expensive but they were the only source I could find for more (well at least ones with a polished bezel instead of plastic) period correct LED instrument panel indicator lights. Finish Line has all the switches with the domed top and the polished bezel.

First the lights...

The LED versions of the warning lights came from Cobra Restorers. They are clearly of a very high quality and much sturdier looking than the ones that came with the kit. They also have a retaining nut and lock washer so the can be tightened up from behind the dash. The ground comes with an eyelet installed and the positive (red) is tinned ready to be soldered. This photo shows the obvious physical differences:





Here are some photos with the lights on...the photos do not quite do the LEDs justice; in real life they are not as washed out as they appear in the photos. The LEDs are on the left.





Switch Comparison...

Buttons for Start or Horn: The FFR version has a black plastic bezel whereas the Finish Line version is polished metal.





The momentary switches are a little confusing...

The SPB 204 is a five amp switch which, according to various on line sources, is being replaced by NEW 65SA toggle switch spring return switch. The Lucas box has both part numbers on it.

Switch, Head Lamp Dip (Product Code: SH) is on the right below. The Washer Switch SPB 204 (Product Code: Washer Switch) on the left. Both look identical except for the bezel which is a hex head on dip switch.



Carl

[edwardb]

Carl -- Those exact indicator lights are also available from DelCity.net. I used them as well. I agree they are way brighter than the supplied incandescent bulbs, and look better too.

I have to say, though, you're a brave man for installing that many Lucas switches. (Insert Lucas prince of darkness jokes here)

[carlewms]

Dumb is probably closer to the right word for my use of the Lucas switches ... and that is after owning 3 British cars.

I may regret wanting to have that look of the original switches but we shall see...

Carl

[carlewms]

I am up at 4:30 in the morning on Saturday the assembling my reservoirs for the brakes and hydraulic clutch. I guess I should say RE-assembling my reservoirs For the brakes and hydraulic clutch, since this is a second go around after my failure with the braided steel lines.

Brake Reservoirs First

This time I used an Earl's Performance Plumbing 90 deg Elbow black 3/8th inch NPT to Barb connector #AT984206ERL from Summit and the washers from Ace Hardware normally used in lamp post assemblies ... a little hokey but it worked. I added a little Permatex High Temperature Thread Sealant to make sure everything was sealed up tight.



After finishing up the reservoir end, the path through the front DS foot box had to be redesigned to accommodate the 5/8 in OD rubber hoses connecting the the reservoirs to the master cylinders. The cover plate on the left was the one made when the steel braided lines were going to be used. The new one is on the right.



One technique to cut a perfectly round piece of sheet metal is to use a hole saw as long as you recognize and factor in the center hole that the guide bit makes when you cut the circle out.



Setting up my adjustable hole saw to match the radius of the aluminum cover I needed to produce, I then clamped the aluminum on the drill press and cut out a perfectly round plate.



While the guide bit will go through the soft aluminum fairly quickly, the outer bit is moving faster and if you feed the bit down too hard, you can bog down the press or worse yet, cause the it to grab the aluminum. The bit cuts a nice, BUT SHARP chamfer on the edge of the new disk. I took a sand paper sponge and took the sharp out of the piece.

Since I have a hydraulic clutch, there needs to be room for 3 hoses through the cover plate, each about 7/8 in in diameter to account for the 5/8 in OD hose and the 5/8 in ID rubber grommets. After checking the cover plate fit on the frame, I realized I could not line up the three holes but had to lay them out so as not to interfere with the frame:



After installing the grommets here is the final version. Note that the guide bit hole is pretty much covered by the rubber grommets. After finding some more 3/8 in ID fuel rated hose I measured out and cut the two for the brake reservoirs. Using a little spray cleaner made slipping the hoses grommets easier.



Although it may be overkill I also wanted to make sure that each of these hoses was secured inside the foot box on the pedal box. Because of the larger diameter of these rubber hoses I had to route one of the hose to the PS master cylinder on the side toward the engine compartment instead of both down between the two brake master cylinders. Using a 1/8 inch thick 1 inch wide aluminum plate I created a bracket to hold the PS master cylinder hose clamp.



This flat bracket is bolted on two of the bosses on the Wilwood Pedal box assembly and extends out to the passenger side where the hose clamp is mounted upside down to provide a more direct path for the hose to the barb.

The next step... Fill and Bleed the brakes and then test the hydraulic clutch after I lower the car down to the jack stands.

Carl

[carlewms]

Here are the photos of the finished system. From the PS:



From the DS:



From the top of above the DS foot box:



Ready for fluid and bleeding when I get the car down on the jack stands ...

Carl

[Gumball]

Carl - that reservoir set-up is outstanding!!! Great job at replication - your build is really turning out great.

[carlewms]

After wrestling the new 3 in 1 Combination Brake, Shear and Roller from Bailiegh's this weekend, getting all the cosmoline cleaned of the raw components and making some adjustments to the machine, I got down to expanding the outer panel of the DS foot box to accommodate some room between the clutch pedal and the side of the box.

The machine weighs in at over 430 pounds so some disassembly and reassembly was required to get it out of the back of the SUV and on to the bench.... I'm just glad OSHA was not around during the process.



On the FFR Mk 4, there is not a whole lot of room on the outside of the DS foot box for expansion room. After researching all the possibilities, it looked like I could gain about 1.5 inches at the top of the expansion and .75 inches at the bottom.

Here is the layout and dimensions I used ...



Mockup views ... from the inside of the foot box and then from the outside:



After cutting three sides of the expansion panel, I bent the third side (at the rear of the panel) and then used the brake to fabricate the walls (or I guess you would say sides) of the expansion box.



Here is the finished installation ... Outside



Inside



In final execution, mainly because the brake operator (me in other words) did not take proper care to make sure to take into effect the bend allowance, the panel sits out about an 1/8th of an inch more than it should. After I mount the body I may find the need to re-fabricate the walls if the expansion "pushes" out the body.

This panel will probably be one of the last panels permanently installed before the final installation of the body so that I will keep good access to the pedal box and foot box.

Carl

[Raceral]

Great build thread... think twice if you really need a dead pedal.
Its nice to stick that left leg out... but I am 6'2...

[carlewms]

After completing the trunk expansion box yesterday I proceeded to try to clean it up a bit. It is not my best work and demonstrates the difficulties in making a box this large the first time on a machine I've never used before.

For a while I thought I was going to have to scratch the whole box and restart again but I managed to find a way to make it work and the multiple errors on the box are essentially hidden by other sheet metal and ultimately the carpet they were going to trunk.

Here are some photos of the work in progress:



One of the challenges was operating the brake at the limits ... at .04 in thick and 26 in long; it takes a lot of umph to get the metal bent.



Since the original trunk cover had an access point to get to the tank level sensor, I needed to do the same on this new box. Using a hole saw and my drill I cut the two and so the opening and then using shears opened up the sides.





After completing the riveting and fabrication of the box I then decided to tackle and fabricate better fittings to cover all openings in the aluminum. When I first started the mockup and installation of the aluminum in the trunk I had made some covers to go in the corners to close out the exposed and I've some of the filing tubes. I had used Home Depot style .025 aluminum panels and these looked kind of flimsy now that I had the other panels installed. Here is a photo comparing the two with the new prove ring made from .04 in T6-6061 on the right.



Having a brake made it much easier to use the smaller gauge material and provided for a much cleaner bend lines than I had previously. Here are photos of the covers mocked up onto the frame:



I had to trim the side panels slightly to accommodate for these covers ...



Before final install I will paint the outside with undercoating and prepare the inside for Lizardskin.

Since one of the uses of this expanded trunk is to locate the aft ISIS POWERCELL, I next need to figure out the best location for the cell and the routing of the wires to and from the cell.

Carl

[carlewms]

While most of the work was done before the trip to the Texas Cobra Club meeting last weekend, the ride confirmed that the modification will make the PS foot box much more comfortable for the passenger. Using a set of templates produced by others that have done the mod, i created the following panels:

Bottom Panel:



Front Panel (or the back panel of the foot box):



Top Panel:



While I cut a side panel for the inside of the foot box, I miss read the template and cut the panel too short ... so this panel and the outer panel of the foot box had to wait until new sheet metal arrived from online metals.

Carl

[carlewms]

Another pre Texas update...

I then finally tackled the modification to the RT gas pedal to make it look a little more original looking.

Taking 1/8th inch thick plate, I cut a 1 1/2 inch wide plate that I hand formed into the curved pedal. By sticking to the width it allowed me to use all the other RT provided hardware to mount it to the pedal arm.







After annealing the piece, I hammered into the curved shape... Just enough to work on the pedal arm provided by RT. Utilizing the same geometry as Russ' design, the mounting holes were bored and countersunk to make sure the screws are flush with the surface.





The pedal as installed prior to painting:



I will paint the parts in semi gloss black and cover the surface of the pedal with a non-skid pad.

[carlewms]

I am jumping around a bit ... somewhat because of jobs of opportunity but also because I have parts coming in at different times ...

The ISIS system uses two POWERCELLs which are essentially smart local fuse panels located at each end of the car.

The front POWERCELL is located on a panel alongside the Mega Fuse Box in the engine compartment (above the x member) above the battery. The rear POWERCELL is located in the box I fabricated to add storage to the trunk.

The front installation. I prepared a 1/8 in thick aluminum plate to mount the two components and drilled it out to install on the x member.



One note on POR-15 ... I like it for components like the transmission, differential or driveshaft but I find it difficult to work with on panels or mounting plates. It just requires too much work to be efficient on a flat panel or plate. I would have been better off getting these components powder coated or just primed and painted.

Here is the mounting plate with the components installed and wired.



Each POWERCELL is powered from the Mega Fuse Panel with two power feeds (the two red wires connected at the top).



The larger wire at the bottom right hand side connects to the battery.



After research on the net, I ordered and installed transparent heat shrink so that the condition of the connections could be checked in case of electrical problems.

Carl

[VdubJoe]

Great looking build. Great job on the brake line hose routing. I'm sure it is but your lines are brake fluid compatible ? Regular fuel or rubber can have an issue. Looking forward to more.

Joe

[WIS89]

Carl-

Enjoying your build! I am looking forward to watching your ISIS install. I am almost certain I am going to use it on my build, so I hope to learn a lot from your build! Also, I like the transparent heat shrink. I had no idea there was such a product. It makes sense in your application, and it looks great.

Keep up the great work!

Regards,

Steve

[skullandbones]

Hi Carl,

I like your throttle pedal mod. I'll have to copy that one.

Thanks,

WEK.

[carlewms]

Great looking build. Great job on the brake line hose routing. I'm sure it is but your lines are brake fluid compatible ? Regular fuel or rubber can have an issue. Looking forward to more.

Joe

Yes, I used the lines that came with the Wilwood clutch master cylinder and the FFR upgrade Wilwood brakes.

Carl

[carlewms]

While out on travel, my new sheet metal arrived to finish the outside and inside panels for the PS foot box expansion. This time I read the templates, measured and marked times 3 to make sure I did not screw it up ... and it sort of worked.

Lessons Learned: There is clearly variations between the FFR Marks but there are also some variations between individual frames (which could occur for a variety of reasons). These include weld beads, some undocumented changes in the frame, tolerances at extremes and last but not least some changes in geometry due to the welding process.

I was using templates applicable to the Mk IV but they clearly were not exactly applicable to my Mk IV.

Here are the results in progress:



The custom changes made ... in part to save ordering and waiting for another sheet of aluminum T6 6061.Instead of outside panel as called for in the templates, I modified it to have a top. After fabricating the panel per the template the mating with the top of the foot box just was not working.

I also overlapped the panels from the top down to reeducate the chances of leakage from the top of the foot box specially in the area between the body and the outside panel.

I also decided to clean up the edges of the overlapped panels so that they are smoother transitions ...



I personally like the look ...

Carl

[carlewms]

I went back to the installation of the inside PS foot box panel. In order to properly fit it up I need to permanently install the "horseshoe" panel that goes over the front of the tunnel under the firewall. This became the 4th panel installed permanently on the build.



After going back and studying the photos I took prior to disassembly of the aluminum (there is a hint here...take lots of photos before removing any panels paying close attention to the overlaps). The panel was mocked up and will require some adjustment on the front and bottom to match up with the top and back panels; this all after I return from another business trip these first few days of the coming week.

Getting some of the little stuff done, I finished drilling out, installing the grommets on and preparing the AC foot pedal pads. They fit right up on the Wilwood pedal arms. Here is the final result:



All that is left to do is paint the gas pedal and install the non skid on the pedal surface. I will either order or fabricate a dead pedal to go in the expansion on the outside panel.

[2bking]

Carl, I have the same brake but it has a Northern Tool label on it. It works very well if you plan the bend sequences. I found the .040 thk 6061-T6 cracks on the bend lines without using a .016 thick pad between the aluminum and the Vee. With the pad it makes a .04 bend radius, the minimum for .040 thk 6061-T6.

I'm planning on using the ISIS wiring also. Where did you locate the master cell and did you get any of the optional wiring products they offer?

[carlewms]

King,

Thanks for the tip on the brake; I have had a few spots on bends with cracks. I have also found that I do not have the problem if I do not take the brake through its full "cycle" (I am not sure how to explain it but if I completely rotate the handle a full 360 degrees it tends to happen more).

I found that doing so actually bent the piece beyond 90 degrees. According to the manual, you can adjust this out but I have frond it a little difficult to find the sweet spot. I also have found that doing bends on sheets greater than about 18 inches takes a lot of "butt" to get it bent; meaning that it is really close to the limits if the brake.

With respect to ISIS I plan on mounting the MASTERCELL vertically above the the transmission tunnel behind an access panel. This spot allows easy access to the dash, makes it easy to check the status on the monitor and is a good spot for routing of the CAN cable (front forward the "horseshoe" and rear through the transmission tunnel).

The first photo shows the location ...



The second photo is of the panel I fabricated to cover the ISIS MASTERCELL and mount some other switches (heated seats, potentially AC) as well as the clock). Not true to the original but not everything will be anyway.



After finishing the expanded PS foot box yesterday, it looks like there would be plenty of room to mount it on a flip done mount under the top of the panel.

Carl

[carlewms]

The dogs ... who are pretty good at tracking down mice ... went crazy over the box containing the side pipes. They literally tore up the box trying to find the rodents.

Apparently the field mice set up house in my side pipes ...



Carl

[carlewms]

After a whole lot of trimming and "futzing" around, I finally got the modification completed and on the car.

While the templates available on the forums were helpful with the initial layout, the differences in the frames made for a lot of "customization" of the panels from the templates. The sequence of installation and drilling the panels is important because of the access to them once installed to get a rivet gun in place.

After preparing the panels with professional grade undercoating and SharkHide depending on the panel, the first panel to get installed was the bottom panel.



The panel installs easily and it was the only one that did not require extensive trim up from the templates.



Next up was the back panel (front of the foot box). The outside was treated with SharkHide after the usual sanding and scotch padding (new phrase) and I sprayed the inside with the undercoating as I did on the DS.



Installed ... I installed this first since the panel for the inside of the foot box mounts to the outside of the vertical tab of this panel.



The last panel permanently installed was the inside panel ... which also required the most trimming, etc.



For the connection to the foot box back panel, I decided to rivet from inside the engine compartment for a smoother look inside the compartment. For the connection to the horseshoe, I did the opposite.



The rest of the panels (top, angle top and the outside panel) will be permanently installed later to make it easy to access the foot box.

As I did on the DS, I fabricated a piece to make the transition from the cockpit floor to the foot box bottom a little smoother (which should make carpeting a little easier).





Carl

[Gumball]

Carl,

Looking great, man. I really enjoyed the aluminum fitting and making new panels... you've done an outstanding job so far and I can tell you're having fun, too! Gotta love getting lots of use out of a new tool.

[WIS89]

Carl-

Everything is looking great! I like the piece you created between the dash and trans tunnel. I think it will be very functional, and will look pleasant. I am considering doing something similar. Did I understand you correctly that you will be putting the ISIS parts behind this piece?

I am enjoying your build.

Regards,

Steve

[DaleG]

Carl, where did you get the courtesy lamp for the under-dash panel, passenger side?

[carlewms]

Carl, where did you get the courtesy lamp for the under-dash panel, passenger side?

Dale,

These are actually LED lights from SuperBrightLEDs.com. The link to the specific light is https://www.superbrightleds.com/more...ight/404/2186/

Part Number: LPC-B-WW2 | UPC: 847781021868

I picked the "yellow" color not the white. You can also get it in chrome.

Carl

[carlewms]

Carl-

Everything is looking great! I like the piece you created between the dash and trans tunnel. I think it will be very functional, and will look pleasant. I am considering doing something similar. Did I understand you correctly that you will be putting the ISIS parts behind this piece?

I am enjoying your build.

Regards,

Steve

Steve,

I will be putting the MASTERCELL behind this piece. The rear POWERCELL is going in a box under the trunk and the front POWERCELL is going on a panel I am making to go on the x-member in the engine compartment. The MEGA FUSE BLOCK is going to be mounted next to it and all of this will be above the battery.

Front POWERCELL and Mega Fuse Block:



The rear POWERCELL goes in the expansion box fabricated to take advantage of the open space above the fuel tank.



Carl

[WIS89]

Thanks Carl! I am still trying to make a decision regarding ISIS.

I look forward to watching your experience with it.

Regards,

Steve

[carlewms]

Yesterday ... time to finish off the box going underneath the bifold hatch in the trunk.

I really did not like how I had executed the first version of the box ... too many mistakes on the side of the first one as it was my first experience using the new brake.

Here is the upgraded version...



The compartment on in the upper righthand corner of the box is a compartment for the rear ISIS POWERCELL ...



While the ISIS components are pretty sturdy I still wanted to segregate the POWERCELL from the rest of the box to make sure I could keep that area cleaner. I will dress out the top of edges of the smaller box with some u shaped trim.





The learning curve on the sheet metal work has been steep at times and there is "dead" metal around the Old Goat Garage to prove it ... but is sure is fun.

I also mocked up the and drilled out the box to install below the trunk. My decision to keep the 3/4 in square tubing intact made this task a little more difficult than I anticipated (tool access reasons). If I were to do this again, I would go a head and modify the framing to make for full access to the area, ease of box fabrication and installation and clearly a much cleaner look.

The outside or underside was painted with undercoating...



Carl

[carlewms]

After working the sheet metal stuff for most of the weekend, I closed out work in the garage getting the front ISIS POWERCELL and Mega Fuse Panel cleaned up and installed.

To fully take advantage of the ISIS system the location of the POWERCELL needs to be as close to its loads as possible and the Mega Fuse Panel needs to be as close to the battery as feasible.

The solution for the roadster was to install a panel mounted above the battery (I used the excellent Breeze kit to mount the battery low on the crossmember). The front POWERCELL mounted on the DS and the Mega Fuse Panel mounted on the PS of the panel.



Electrically speaking, the battery is connected to the Mega Fuse Panel via the large cable shown at the bottom of the photo. The lower connections on the Mega Fuse Panel are all bussed together. The upper connections then feed the POWERCELLs through two 60A cables (the red ones in the upper left quarter of the photo). This is the "hot" side of the circuit to the POWERCELL.

How is this different from a conventional wiring harness? The biggest difference (from an installation perspective) is avoiding running power from the battery to the fuse panel in the DS foot box that is then routed via longer multiple "hot" wires back to the loads in the front of the car. It also avoids having a wiring "mess" in the foot box and dash where space is at a premium. Additionally, the power run to the POWERCELL is protected with the mega fuses which is not the case in a conventional wiring harness where there is no protection between the battery and the fuse panel (at least in the RF harness provided by FFR).

[carlewms]

The last two days was spent mostly planning the routing for the wiring system ...

With the POWERCELLs and MASTERCELL locations set, getting the routing of the CAN cable between the MASTERCELL and the POWERCELLs was laid out to avoid heat sources and moving or rotating objects.

Simple tools for this one ... some automotive wire to use as a template and some blue painter's tape.

MASTERCELL to Front POWERCELL

The path from the MASTERCELL to the front POWERCELL is across the 2x2 frame member to DS and forward left of the Wilwood master cylinders through the hole normally used for the clutch cable in the front panel of the DS foot box. Here are some photos showing this routing ...

The MASTERCELL will be centerline under a panel above the trunk so the CAN cable will route over to the DS from this location.



then forward to the left of the Wilwood pedal box ...



Exiting the foot box through the clutch cable opening ... note that when I have all the wires that will be using this path, I will bundle them and use a rubber grommet wherever wiring penetrates sheet metal.



I decided to use the upper 3/4 in square tube to get the wiring as far away as possible from the headers and to make access easier when the body is on the car.



I will not be using the FFR hood hinges so these mounting points are available as a "turning point" for the wiring.

Please provide any feedback or suggestions ...

Next post will show the route to the rear POWERCELL.

Carl

[carlewms]

I previously posted the route from the MASTERCELL to the front POWERCELL in the ISIS installation ...

Here is the route from the MASTERCELL to the rear POWERCELL.

(For illustrative purposes the wire is shown on the top of the transmission tunnel but will be on the bottom of the upper 3/4 square tube in the installation).

The MASTERCELL will be below the dash on top of the transmission tunnel inside a removable panel.

.

The CAN cable from the MASTERCELL and the two power cables from the battery will go down the transmission tunnel DS.



Then up an over the differential ... through holes cut in the support frame for the upper trunk.



Grommets are mounted in all holes to prevent any chaffing in the case of the frame above or to make a watertight connection through the to the new box fabricated to hold the rear POWERCELL below.



Carl

[carlewms]

In the ISIS system, power is delivered via the two POWERCELLs to the loads. With the POWERCELLs located closer to the loads, the number the length of the circuit wiring is reduced. The diagram below illustrates the system setup:



Think of the POWERCELL as a smart fuse and power distribution box

Here is a typical sequence...utilizing the headlights as an example.

1. Pull the Headlight Switch to turn on the headlights;
2. This CLOSES the circuit to the MASTERCELL;
3. The MASTERCELL sends a data signal to the front POWERCELL. The data package tells the POWERCELL:
- What load to energize
- How to apply power to the load

In ISIS talk it is called "personality" and in this particular case power is slowly applied in a soft start to increase the life of an incandescent type headlight; and,

4. The POWERCELL then closes the power circuit to energize the headlights. This individual circuit is also fused to give the circuit and load(s) additional protection.

Carl

[carlewms]

Here are some photos of the rear POWERCELL ...

The first illustrates the connections coming and going from the POWERCELL:



Each POWERCELL has two sides (A and B) with 5 circuits which can carry up to 25 amps per circuit

Bank B - Circuits 1-5 (at the bottom of the photo)
Bank A - Circuits 5-10 (at the top of the photo)



The photo below shows how the loads are run off the POWERCELL.

.

In this case, the B side of the cell carries:

Circuit 1 - Left Hand Rear Turn Signal
Circuit 2 - Right Hand Rear Turn Signal
Circuit 3 - Open (not currently used)
Circuit 4 - Light for the Upper Trunk Breeze Storage Compartment
Circuit 5 - Power Outlets (charge phones, etc.)

Carl

[carlewms]

The folks at ISIS provide an ISIS Systems Assignment matrix to show how the systems gets connected functionally equivalent to a wiring diagram.



Based on their matrix, I created one specific to my application and organized so that I could easily track the MASTERCELL inputs and associated wire colors/input numbers and the outputs of the POWERCELL(s) and the wire colors/output numbers.

This is a planning tool and will change as I learn more but it is the starting point for right now.

As soon as I can get it down in size to load as a pdf I will post it.

Carl

[WIS89]

Carl-

Thanks for all the details on the ISIS system. I am curious if you feel that the system is saving you any time on the electrical installation, or if it is making it any easier, relative to what would need to be done without the system. It does appear fairly straightforward once you map-out the various circuits.

Great progress, and thanks for sharing!

Regards,

Steve