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Thread: Troubles With the Supplied Wiring Harness

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  1. #1
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    Troubles With the Supplied Wiring Harness

    The supplied wiring harness is made for the Roadster and thus, has problems when applied to the Hot Rod.

    Nowhere in the manual does it tell you that you have to cut off connectors from the dash harness then crimp on the special connectors supplied by Ididit (they supply the column) and then insert these into the female connector body which is then plugged into the male column conncetor. I had to call FFR to get this info. You'd think it would be stated in the manual to perform this task. It took a lot of study and a few phone calls to FFr to get this info.

    Another one: My manual is dated November 2010. The photo on page 140 is just plain wrong according to FFR. I went around and around on this one before they agreed. You do not put two flasher feed wires into the column as shown in the photo. The gray flasher feed wire on the Dash Harness goes singularly into the column connector. The other wire referenced in the photo is on the Chassis Harness and goes directly to the fuse block.

    There should be a wiring harness specfically made for the '33.

    Has anyone else out there had these issuse with the wiring harness?


    From a frustrated builder, Jim

  2. #2

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    Dont even get me going on this subject. This is why all my builds use a Painless harness or something similar. I like to decide where things should go. Very hard to make the Ron Francis harness look neat.
    Mike

  3. #3
    Senior Member ehansen007's Avatar
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    Yeah, I hacked a bunch of it out. Really, you could wire this without the harness but the Ron Francis makes it plug and play.






  4. #4
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    Personally, I am a big fan of the American AutoWire Highway series harness.

    Olli

  5. #5
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    I agree with Oli on the American Auto wire have used it like 5 times and there tech line and service is great.

    Kenny

  6. #6

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    Ollie I have used that harness a few times as well. Great harness for the price. The only difference I have seen with that one over the Painless, is the wire covering thickness. The painless wire is more compact. I makes no difference in these cars though. I will use the Aw harness from now on.
    Mike

  7. #7
    Senior Member CHOTIS BILL's Avatar
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    Which one would be best to wire a type 65 coupe the Highway 15 Wiring Kit or the Highway 22 Wiring Kit?

    Bill Lomenick
    Chotis Bill

  8. #8
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    Bill,

    It really depends on what your electrical needs are. I have used both the 15 and the 22. The car that I used the 15 on had EFI, heated seats, and just the basic electrical needs. For my '33 I used the 22. The '33 has EFI, HVAC, electric power steering, wipers. I have some spare circuits left. What I like about the HWY Series is that you only hook up wires to the fuse box for the circuits that you are using. You don't have any extra wires to cut out or coil up for future use.

    Olli

    Olli

  9. #9
    Senior Member CHOTIS BILL's Avatar
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    Thanks,

    Bill Lomenick
    Chotis Bill

  10. #10
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    Question on tail light wiring.
    The supplied harness has 4 wires for the running, brake, turn signal lights but the lights themselves only have three wires, running and brake (ground is assumed in all cases) I was planning on "Y"ing the turn and brake light wires from the lights themselves but I am not sure if this is correct. The manual seems to say to just connect either the turn or brake ligth the the harness to the "brake" wire on the light itself. This would imply that somewhere in the control board there is some logic that controls those light wires>
    Thanks for any help.
    Mike

  11. #11

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    15 should be more than enough,

  12. #12
    Senior Member ehansen007's Avatar
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    The extra wire is for the license plate lights. Follow the manual for the other three. You should have running light, turn, and ground for each.

  13. #13
    Senior Member Jay Mann's Avatar
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    If you are using an old manual, order the newest versin online for 10 bucks. I know that there is a new wiring diagram for the Hot Rod, for example and I am sure there is other updated info. The manual I got with my kit in sept 2011 was two versions behind the online version at that time.
    www.33coyote.com
    Built with the help of my dad and sons
    coyote/TKO 600, Wilwood Brakes,Boyds tank, QA1 shocks
    Speedhut Gages, rag top, bike fenders, power steering

    "Never let physics or common sense get in the way of a good idea"

  14. #14
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    Hi
    I have been holding my frustration in for a few days but the loom that is supplied really got to me today while wiring the dashboard.

    There are very few wires that I have not either had to lengthen,shorten,or re-route in order get the wiring to be respectable and neat.I have had to almost totally take it apart and re-construct it.

    The part that is most irritating to me is the amount of waste of expense and time that has been incurred to get the situation sorted out.I feel it us unfair not to have had a specific loom prepared for the Hotrod or at least to offer a credit for leaving the loom that is clearly prepared for a Cobra for a out of the kit.

    Adding a little cost to the kit up front,in order to supply a more appropriate loom is no different to having to spend the time and money to adjust the cobra loom-much like trying to fit a square peg into a round hole

    Couple this with the fuel tank that needs to be replaced and the pile of waste gets more all the time.
    Last edited by Hotrodbob; 06-10-2013 at 06:20 PM. Reason: finnish

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