Where do you order preformed gas and brake lines?
Thanks, Mike
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Where do you order preformed gas and brake lines?
Thanks, Mike
I'm not aware of any source for preformed lines that will fit our cars.
Provided you don't go nuts trying to precisely bend in three dimensions, the $8 lines from Advance Auto Parts are easy enough to bend to the shapes you'll need with a tubing bender. And if you go with Nickel-Copper, I'm pretty sure you can bend even the 3/8" lines by hand.
John
MK IV Roadster #8631
Ford 302, Holley Terminator EFI, T5z, 3.55 Rear End, IRS, 17” Halibrand Replicas (9” front, 10.5” rear), Nitto 555 G2’s (275/40ZR17 front, 315/35ZR17 rear), Fast Freddie’s Power Steering, F5 Wilwood Brakes, FFMetal’s Firewall Forward, Forte’s Hydraulic Clutch & Throttle Linkage
https://www.ffcars.com/threads/phile.../#post-4776313
I bent all of my lines, but couldn't do a decent flare with my flare tool so I bought the Eastwood Flaring Tool and pitched the old one.
The lines bend easily with an average bending tool and getting replacements lines are easy to get at any auto parts store.
Just remember to put your fitting on BEFORE you do the flare.
The attached is a nice review of the Eastwood Tool:
https://youtu.be/UxeA1lhSCsk
Good Luck & Welcome Aboard!
Last edited by GoDadGo; 03-10-2017 at 08:19 PM.
Breeze Automotive has pre-formed brake lines. I've not seen anyone offer pre-formed fuel lines. Wouldn't be easy. Lots of different sizes, whether you need a return or not, plus variations in where the fuel line best enters the engine compartment depending on the engine and fuel pump setup.
I'm actually a little amazed at the lengths people are going to avoid having to do flares. I know it's not cheap, but the Eastwood tool makes perfect flares every single time. Harder in stainless like I've done. But with standard steel line you can get perfect flares the very first time. Just couldn't be easier. I know at $200 it's not a cheap tool. But it will keep on giving long after the build. Or sell it on the forum. They come up every once in a while and immediately get snapped up.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
I was thinking on doing stainless but when my kit comes I want to be prepared. I think I'll spend the money for the Eastwood flaring tool.
Thanks
Mike
Really that much better? Last time I flared brake lines I used something like this and it worked well enough - didn't leak!
Ridgid 23332 Flaring Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X4K9KO/
For $200+ It would have to make a great espresso too
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
I did all my flaring with one of the cheaper tools. It took a couple of trials to get the technique down pat but worked well. I used a combination of the FFR supplied steel lines and some copper-nickel lines. If you must buy the cheaper flaring tools due to budget constraints and can't master flaring steel lines, buy copper- nickel lines. They are pretty much idiot-proof in terms of bending and flaring and won't corrode long term.
Roadracer. It really is that much better. I cannot stand those type of flaring tools. I have not tried the Rigid one though. The only thing they are good for is if you need to flare a line on the car. or its too close to a bend.
Mike
A word of caution on brake line flares. Flares should be a double flare. The Ridgid tool shown above is a single flare tool. Just because the union doesn't leak doesn't mean it will be strong enough to hold up to a panic stop.
This is the type of tool that should be used along with the proper double flare fittings. The fittings in the harware sections at home improvement stores are not the correct ones. Go to an auto parts store. Just want to make sure everyone is safe.
https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6502-Mast...rake+line+tool
Yes, as others have said, it really is that good. I too have tried multiple brands like the one you pictured. Most eventually get the job done (did my Mk3 with that type) but after slipping multiple times, flares being off center, and just generally being a pain to use, went with the Eastwood tool. That plus I did two builds with rigid stainless. Then a tool like the Eastwood is pretty much the minimum. There are way more expensive ones than that. I don't think they make expresso either.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Yeah sorry I just did a quick search to find one that looked similar. Obviously I did the double flare; mine had a little button to do that. But thanks for confirming the usefulness of this Eastwood tool. Good tools do make a huge difference.
[just watched godadgo's referenced video - I used to have that exact red box made in china one! yeah, ok I'm convinced]
Last edited by RoadRacer; 03-11-2017 at 09:46 AM.
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
As John says go to a parts store and get NiCopp lines like Advance sells. Super easy to bend and available in many lengths. Never rusts.
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...hedFrom=header
3/16 is for brakes and either 5/16 or 3/8 for gas.
FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.
Thanks everyone! Ordered from Eastwood and will go to advance auto to buy some pipe to practice,
You can buy a coil of NiCopp lines on Amazon very reasonably. Still have to straighten them. Eastwood has a tool for that but not cheap and only good for one size line.
JRL16
Mk4 delivered 4/28/16. First start 10/15/16. First gocart 11/10/16. Engine Factory 427W. 750 carb. Tremec TKO600. 2015 IRS. Power steering. Whitby power brakes. Wilwood brakes. 18" wheels. Falken tires. Sway bars front and rear. Forte hydraulic clutch and mechanical throttle linkage. Scott's Hot Rods triple reservoir. Ceramic coated headers. Gas’n sidepipes. Heated seats. Herb Fraser walnut door panels. Wipers. Console.
I've never tried this, but I read an article a while back on an inexpensive way to straighten line using a piece of 2x4. Mount the piece of 2x4 in a vice and drill a hole one size up from the brake line diameter through the wood in the 3-1/2" direction. Then push the brake line through the hole to straighten it. Might be worth a shot before buying a tool.
James
FFR33 #997 (Gen1 chassis, Gen2 body), license plate DRIVE IT says it all! build thread
My build: 350SBC, TKO600, hardtop, no fenders/hood, 32 grill, 3 link, sway bars, 355/30r19
Previous cars: GTD40, Cobra, tubeframe 55 Chevy, 66 Nova, 56 F100
A couple of things I do when flaring, the flaring surfaces on the tool have slight amount of lube on them. I use anti seize if it close by. When tightening the new flares, I tighten, then loosen and re tighten. The first time pairs the shapes and the second time seats them, IMO.
20th Anniversary Mk IV, A50XS Coyote, TKO 600, Trunk Drop Box, Trunk Battery Box, Cubby Hole, Seat Heaters, Radiator hanger and shroud.
For what it's worth, Eastwood also makes what it calls the "on car brake flaring tool" for 3/16" double-flare lines. It is a great alternative to the $200 turret-style tool. I bought it because I didn't want to spend $200, and because the first time I used the Harbor Freight flaring tool the wing nut broke and bounced off of my glasses. The "on-car" tool is around $40 and if you just need to do 3/16" double flare lines it is a great option. If you buy it, read the reviews on Eastwood's site because there is a little trick to how far you insert the line into the tool, something like 1mm less than all the way.
For gas lines, aren't the pre-flared (and cheap) versions from O'Reilly sufficient? I just bought two lengths that combined made the length I'm after, and plan to use the kit-provided union. Not talking about vs. SS - that's a style choice, just talking function.
I went with the 3/8 stainless lines from Inline Tube for the fuel lines. They will do the flairing for you for a small fee then all you have to do is the bending. I asked them to only flair one end of each line as I was using fittings to adapt to AN hoses. Got those fittings from Breeze and they don't need anything on the end of the tube except a nice clean cut. They are the ones you snug then turn 1 1/4 turn more. Excellent fittings and no leaks. Inline Tube charged me for one flair on each tube but flared both ends. I didn't see how I would be able to get the fuel there with one single line so got 2 and a bought union from them too. Take your time making your bends and you'll do fine. I made a line with bends from the tubing FFR sent with the kit to practice. No leaks.
JRL16
Mk4 delivered 4/28/16. First start 10/15/16. First gocart 11/10/16. Engine Factory 427W. 750 carb. Tremec TKO600. 2015 IRS. Power steering. Whitby power brakes. Wilwood brakes. 18" wheels. Falken tires. Sway bars front and rear. Forte hydraulic clutch and mechanical throttle linkage. Scott's Hot Rods triple reservoir. Ceramic coated headers. Gas’n sidepipes. Heated seats. Herb Fraser walnut door panels. Wipers. Console.