Quote Originally Posted by Harley818 View Post
Thanks for the update Dan.
I've been doing multiple adjustments as you say for a couple weeks now, a bit at a time, then completely starting over in frustration.
However, its getting better.
I'm a mechanical engineer and I want it to look good, balanced, clean lines, and neat details - so I'm willing to spend a bit more time.

What do you think about cutting the front center of the bumper and re-fiberglassing it 1/4 to 3/8 wider? You won't even notice it when its done, and it will have the right gaps at the front. I haven't decided yet, but its an option at this point.
Aloha818 is a ref for cutting the nose... I'm trying to do no paint, makes everything trickier! I don't think I need to do it but the space there will appear tighter. Our backgrounds dictate that we are willing to work at it longer than most.

I installed my two locking pins at the back of the hood today and I'm working on the front hinges. I have to "tweak" the aluminum angles that I'm bonding to the underside of the hood. I got about 4-5 of those Ace paint sticks and I've cut them into dozens of short pieces, they are stuck all over the car to attempt to hold the gaps while a myriad of devices hold panels in place... I'm still using clecos, duct tape, gallon jugs, screws... you name it. I've found a way to hold something in place with it.

I can't believe how many people have engine covers that actually fit over the roll bar and sit flat on the sides. My cover is so tight on the roll bar and the ears of the engine cover twist severely... That's my next area to resolve. I'm going to mount my 2 inch AL angle under the flat portion of the side panels behind the door and come in from the sides to hold the engine cover down. Aloha818 did the same from the front (door edge) ages ago. I was actually there about the same time, before I swapped body panels, cost me quite a bit of time but these panels should look OK as no paint. It was worth the delay.