Looking good bro, bet you can't wait to build it
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Looking good bro, bet you can't wait to build it
how did you get that hub so clean? is it new?
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
Happy for you guns, I was supposed to get mine sat, but they moved it up to weds
Whew.. That's pretty! Can't wait for mine. Hope it comes sooner than November.
congrats! sorry about the blemishes, any pictures of them?
Looks awesome. Can't wait to help you. Better make sure the fridge is stocked.
Weekends/track days
1997 Camaro SS 380 rwhp/380 rwtq
LT1 Stroked to 396. C5 brakes, suspension work, racing seats, roll bar
Daily driver
1999 Ford F250 Powerstroke 300 rwhp/600 rwtq
Custom intake, 4" exhaust, 80 hp DP Tuner PCM tuning 20 MPG highway!
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Same here... at 1900 its gonna be spotless or there gonna be buffing it out....
Looks good, fits nice on that quick lift. wife will be happy all the parts are coming back out of the bedrooms.
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
Are you not planning on painting it? I had the intention of blocking my down, add som fill primer, block again and paint.
The body looks amazing, but in the few fiberglass parts i have dealt eith , they all required a little work to get them perfect.
Sorry, I don't really mean anything by saying this (more of an amusing observation), but I have to admit I chuckled to myself a bit when I read one thread that folks say "Backorders are OK" and another that says "No shipping damage!".
Looking forward to seeing the build. Is the windshield simply taped in place or is it already bonded?
Please let us know when you talked to Colin at Stewart. He needs to know that customers may not be painting these which means that he needs to treat it like a real car when loading and transporting. No scuffs, scratches, etc are tolerated. Especially at the prices we're paying. Thanks!
I don't want to say the blemishes are 'understandable', but probably not unexpected for one of (the first?) 818 deliveries by Stewart. Their history/expectation is that bodies will be prepped/painted.
I would think some vinyl protective wrap might be a good idea (with additional attention to paid in shipping).
I plan on putting a little time into the gelcoat (polish, etc...) but a scratch that requires filler or touch-up would upset me, as we are expecting 'no-paint' body panels.
Thanks for sorting this out for the rest of us!
R/s
Vidal
CURRENT STATUS: Interior Rework and Bodywork.
GenII GTM #331. Delivered (23/9/10)
BUILD LOG AND WEBSITE:
http://gtmbuild.weebly.com/ .
Hey guys, I spoke with Stewart today and they have been very professional. My 818 was the first one that they shipped and of course there will be some lessons learned. These lessons will be applied to the rest of you so that you don't have any issues. They sound committed to ensuring they nail down this process as it is different from the other kits. They are working with FFR to come up with a solution. If you are having your car shipped via Stewart I wouldn't worry about it. I'm sure they will figure out a better process ASAP.
Mine may ship as early as tomorrow so we'll see how they do in round 2.
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I hope there sending yours out soon
You spoke too soon. I pretty much swapped out blue parts for white parts
I at least cleared up the guest bedroom and consolidated everything into the "office." However, all of the boxes are taking up her side of the garage and she is not happy. Have I mentioned I have an extremely patient wife?
Got the inventory completed and everything looks to be high quality. I'm impressed with everything that comes with this kit for the price. I can't wait to get started, but the only item on backorder that I need is the manual! Luckily Wayne Presley has been nice enough to give me an initial vector so I can get started.
BTW, I love this lift:
Hey Guns, what lift is that exactly? Looks better than the one I've been eyeing.
Post #26 in this thread:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ll=1#post85656
Hey guys, I finally got some time to work on the 818 a bit. So far I pre fit the front firewall and cabin aluminum and drilled all the holes. I'm going to remove them and have them powder coated later this week.
For those of you that have never done anything like this (like me), here are some tips that I think are useful:
-Cleco pins are great for holding the panels in place before you permanently attached them. I bought about 50 pins and the tool on amazon.
-To measure the holes, I used a combo of a ruler and this little measuring device I made. I drilled most of my holes at 2" spacing, but in some areas I did 2.5".
-I mainly used a standard electric drill with a 1/8 bit, but The right angle dremel attachment works wonders for the hard to reach areas (there are a lot!).
That's about it. It's a bit tedious, but not too bad. I wasn't happy with all of FFR's pre-drilled holes, so I will have a couple of random holes in the aluminum, but it shouldn't be a big deal.
There will be a ton of metal shavings when you are done, so have a shop vac handy to clean up the mess
Last edited by GUNS; 07-28-2013 at 06:55 PM.
Lookin good Guns. X2 on the Cleco tool. I don't think you can build a Factory Five without one. And once you have it, you will find a million uses for them.
Steve
MK 3.1 #6422, Complete Kit, 340hp Ford Racing Crate Engine, WC T-5 Trans, 3.55 Rear, Barcelona Red Mica Metallic, Silver Stripes
X3! Love the Cleco's (or whatever the plural is). They make the build a whole lot easier/quicker! Their are a lot of holes to drill and I need to get that right angle attachment! Some of those holes are impossible to get to without breaking a bit!
FFR '33 #325 built with hazelwwp & FFR 818-S #11 Delivered on July 21, 2013
Facebook 818-S/R Build Page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/Facto...78385198877613
Forum 818-S/R Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...-Build-Thread!
FFR Project 818 Owner's Registry on Google Map
Nice work. I've got a 25 pack of 1/8 drill bits ready to go.
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
When I built my Cobra, I took the elastic off an old pair of jockey shorts. Laid it out on the workbench and without stretching it I used a black sharpie and put lines on it about 1" apart. Very easy to stretch it so you get evenly spaced rivits. Drill and cleco each end then stretch the elastic between them. When you get the right spacing, the clecos will not only hold the aluminum to the steel tubing but will also keep the elastic stretched.
I found it to be very easy and gives a great look. You won't end up with 2 rivets near an end spaced closer than the others.
FFR4958. IRS, 408W, Loud and fast!
Speaking of drill bits, does anyone have a good source for the #11 and #30 bits recommended in the build books for the other FFR cars? My local roadster guys said it made the whole riveting process easier as they are few thou bigger than 1/8 (.191 vs .187) and 3/16. I see this one - http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/pr...UGE-DRILL-BIT/ , but no experience with them.
" That which is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce
SN 46 In the building 10/4/13.
Go Cart 10/20/16
Coupe Conversion
EJ205 Wagon donor
someone say cleco?Skins going on LH fuselage.JPG
I order weekly from Mcmaster Carr for work, they offer decent discounts when you're buying in bulk. http://www.mcmaster.com/
Mike everson of replicaparts is a ffr vendor. He can sell you the drills and clecos.
I like that idea. What a great solution!
One question that comes to mind is how important the particular spacing is. For example, when building a house the stud spacing is important because many things are built specifically around that standard spacing. This doesn't seem like the spacing would matter that much, but I've never done it before, so what do I know!
There really isn't anything about the spacing that is important. You want them close enough so you don't have big gaps between the rivets where the silicone sealant will cause a slight warp in the panel.
I did thousands of rivets on helicopters in the Marine Corps. There, the rivets were structural and spacing was important. Here with these it isn't. It is more for appearance than anything. Having them all in a nice straight line and with even spacing really makes it look a lot more professional.
FFR4958. IRS, 408W, Loud and fast!
Rather than tear up my undies causing them to potentially get in a bunch I'll probably buy some elastic banding at the store. I do like that idea though!
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Around here the Home Depot and Lowe's carry number drills.