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I lined the underside of the tank with 1/16 flat roofing rubber and siliconed it down, also I placed insulation tape on the back firewall frame sections that meet the tank. I did this for sound deadening
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How far away are the headers from the gas tank? My headers are still off being coated.
Zero Decibel Motorsports
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I will measure exactly later but I would say 6-8 inches as a guess
Just wondering if a behind the gas tank firewall with a reflective coated would be beneficial or not.
Zero Decibel Motorsports
Check out my new website!
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I am thinking a piece of alumium riveted to the frame in front of the engine to the frame with reflective material on it would work well, I got a couple ideas.
The best (or almost) material to reflect heat is gold, do like the inner panels of the 92-98 McLaren F1. lolll
http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Fi..._F1_engine.jpg
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
They have that stick on reflective material that's cheap and very effective, which I will be using in various locations.
http://m.ebay.com/search?kw=Gold+hea...Gold+heat+wrap
Last edited by metalmaker12; 08-15-2013 at 12:09 PM.
So I have had some issues during my beta build, but my friends at FFR have helped me out and made the proper revisions along the way, I am going to develop a punch list of the problems and solutions in my next few post. Questions comments welcome.
That's a very good idea. A place in the WIKI section of the forum would be extremely helpful to future builders (meaning me) for those problems that make you just sit and stare at for hours with a glazed look scratching your head
Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos
FFR has been great working with me, Wayne, Erik, Craig, Dan, Nick and others on sorting out problems and coming up with fast solutions. All the future 818's will be that much better due to all our hard work. Here are some issues and revisions, anyone else can jump in and add a few.
Problem: The lower control arm bushing needed to be mounted under the outside frame point and on top of the inside frame point. There is a little bit of gusset in the way and you have to trim to fit along with enlarging the mount holes a couple sizes.
Revision: All FFR 818 frames going forward will not have this issue
Problem: The filler neck tube is the wrong bend for the top fill provision on the body. Is the old location like the 818 R photo-113.JPG
Revision: A new filler tube has been created by FFR, it just did not get updated in time for the first few kits, but all the beta kits forward will be corrected, will post pics when I receive the new setup
Problem: The wrong axles were sent out to a good chunk of us betas, due to a miscue.
Revision: The correct axles have been ordered by FFR and we will get all new sets
Problem : The left engine mount may be to close to certain headers, and we have to trim the mount by 1/4 inch on its forward facing side.
Revision: The FFR 818 frames going forward will no longer have this issue.
Problem: The kit comes with two right upper control arms
Revision: you have to trim down the welded side on one arm by 1.100' to make it a usable left arm.
Heres some pics of my brake line work
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Question for you metal. Are all the brake lines supplied and bent by builder or do we use any portion of the stock lines. Trying to figure out if I meed to keep pieces or not from the donor...
Supplied and we must bend all lines and flare 3-4 ends
You have to bend your lines, you do not have to flare them. I'm sure MM flared his to have the lines an exact length instead of a loop in the line.
Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos
True, you could loop them if you want, but I found it easier to cut cut and fit certain ones. Plus they sent me a lack of shorter line sizes so I had to get resourceful, since I set out to install lines. I also may replace the lines with nickel copper or stainless ones down the road, but I have a solid pedal and they are working nicely now, so there staying as is for some time.
Last edited by metalmaker12; 08-17-2013 at 09:15 AM.
Axles are next for me...
How do we tell if we got the wrong axles?
Any idea if Factory Five is being proactive, or do we have to figure it out and call for new axles?
Thx,
B
do they have the same spline size on both ends? if so you have the right axles.
Wayne Presley www.verycoolparts.com
Xterminator 705 RWHP supercharged 4.6 DOHC with twin turbos
If you have aftermarket cv's it changes what your asking. Oem and aftermarket inner cv's fronts have a different female spline design. Oem is fine and aftermarket is coarse. So if you have oem axles you want fine/fine spline axles and if you have aftermarket you want fine/ coarse splines to your axles. FFR will send you the correct ones if you have the wrong axles, just let them know. I am thinking at some point they will be sending only oem style axle shafts, but maybe they will offer both, I will ask about this .
Last edited by metalmaker12; 08-19-2013 at 05:04 PM.
Thanks Metalmaker, Wayne, Erik, Mechie & Timmy318 for blazing a path for us.
My build is getting close! I am scheduled to pick up my 818 less than a month from now. Hopefully most of your catches will be fixed by then (thanks to your efforts).
Cheers!
Last edited by FFR-ADV; 08-20-2013 at 05:04 AM.
image.jpg
Looks coarse/fine
From time to time you might get a part that is bent wrong or wrong in some way. FFR will send you a new one, or you can be resourceful. This tranny bracket had a tab bent the wrong way, I cut and welded it in the correct position.
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I decided to cut my axle ends down, came out better than I thought with a crude angle iron saw.
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Also, everone, I am working with Nick (stickshift84) On some different seat mounting and the steel arm spindle to shock clearance, we will post results.
Last edited by metalmaker12; 08-22-2013 at 06:58 PM.
Good job man, wish I had your welding skills.
I have an extra one
FFR 1879, Blown DSS 306,REDLINE management, VeryCoolParts Tuned 460RWHP
FFR 818S, The Flash, Chassis #5, 2.0L, LSD, Electromotive TEC-S, VCP Tuned, 278RWHP 265 RWTQ
FFR 6651, Green Lantern, 408W Crate, Hellion 66mm Turbo, JGS Waste gate / Blowoff valve, Tec-GT management, VCP Tuned, 575 RWHP, 690 RWTQ
FFR 8335, Black Mamba, 289 FIA CSX 2001 tribute car, 347, 48 IDA webers, VCP Tuned, 311 RWHP 386 RWTQ, 3-link, Trigo's
FFR 0004, Gen 3 , Hawk Coupe, Coyote twin turbo, 683 RWHP 559 RWTQ, IRS, VCP Tuned. "not too shabby"
US ARMY Maintenance Test Pilot (CW4 Retired)
Nice looking welds!
I expect I might run into the spline issue with a probably typical twist. I replaced my donors CV on the passenger side when I first purchased it last September with a aftermarket one from NAPA. What is not clear to me is how an aftermarket shaft with a different spline pitch could work at all?
The only other fix on my donor was to replace the O2 sensor (got a Bosch one).
Cheers!
FFR did not know they had aftermarket axles/cv's and went forward to create axles for the kit from after market splins.
That weld was with a short arc mig, nothing crazy, thank you though, I was really just showing that it was a minor fix .Soon you will see some nice looking tig welds from some fabricated brackets.
Chris, PM me I'm interested in a modified Factory Five 818 exhaust adaptor... I want to bell mouth the adaptor... Any interest in some side work?
Dan
818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14
pm sent Dan, I have some ideas also to chat about, send my your number again, lost in old pm's, call you lata
Here is some progress on pedals, shifter/cables and e brake etc. I got my brake lines ran and I have a clutch and brake pedal right at the top and ready to drive. I also have my 02 gas pedal in a great location with some modification. I am finishing up my harness re-working and I am about to start installing
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I look forward to seeing your custom exhaust mounted up in your 818.
Nice work!
I am going to start a re- worked version and see how it looks with the rear section mounted possibly this weekend
A little carbon wrap goes a long way, I am very happy with the results of the wrap I purchased.I also put some skate board gripper on the dead pedals.
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Nice wrap!
Is that the one from the guy here on the forum? Damn I lost the website and the guy's name... I'll find the thread.
Got it. Kalstar and http://www.ultimatepremiumplus.com/
Last edited by Frank818; 08-31-2013 at 08:51 AM.
Frank
818 chassis #181 powered by a '93 VW VR6 Turbo GT3582R
Go-karted Aug 5, 2016 - Then May 19+21, 2017
Tracked May 27/July 26, 2017
Build time before being driveable on Sep 27, 2019: over 6000h
Build Completed Winter 2021
I like it. looks really good. I may just cover my raw aluminum with that.
I would love to see the modifications to your gas pedal. Looks way better closer like that, and more functional for Heel/toe.
Last edited by C.Plavan; 08-31-2013 at 10:34 AM.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)
All I did was cut the pedal shaft down one 1" and re- welded it together. Remember to remove plastic pedal!!!! I also added some small rivets in the top of the oem- FFR mount to make more ridged. The wrap came out good, it it an art form though and takes practice. My mod for pedal is only for the 02-05 dbc
Looking really good. Quality of the wrap looks great and the pedals look perfect with that minor modification.
Last edited by C.Plavan; 08-31-2013 at 02:39 PM.
Thanks- Chad
818R-SOLD!!!- Go Karted 7/20/14/ Officially raced NASA ST2- 2/28/15
2016 Elan NP01 Prototype Racecar Chassis #20
1969 Porsche 911ST Vintage Race Car
1972 Porsche 911T (#'s matching undergoing nut & bolt resto in my garage)