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Thread: Odometer reset

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    Odometer reset

    Any suggestions/recommendations on who can reset my WRX odometer to 0? I'd rather not have my brand new 818 start its life with 112,000 miles on the clock. Is the re-calibration done in the cluster, or the ECU?

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    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmoretta View Post
    Any suggestions/recommendations on who can reset my WRX odometer to 0? I'd rather not have my brand new 818 start its life with 112,000 miles on the clock. Is the re-calibration done in the cluster, or the ECU?
    It is done in the cluster by counting pulses from vehicle speed sensor. There is no signal for the odometer coming from the ECU.

    Just a note. Running the wheels backwards will NOT lower the odometer ( Ferris Bueller's Day Off) on a 1961 Ferrari GT California or on an 02-07 Subaru.

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    Senior Member DodgyTim's Avatar
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    For mine (a 2006) I sent the cluster away, not the Ecu
    Interestingly the guy who reset it couldn't take it back to zero, the lowest he could do was 0000095 Kms
    Cost was $100 plus shipping, I had mine done in Australia, so i'm no help to you there

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    Here is a place that sounds pretty promising.

    http://www.whitegauges.net/products/...t-Service.html

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    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    It is done in the cluster by counting pulses from vehicle speed sensor. There is no signal for the odometer coming from the ECU.

    Just a note. Running the wheels backwards will NOT lower the odometer ( Ferris Bueller's Day Off) on a 1961 Ferrari GT California or on an 02-07 Subaru.
    That was really an 80's Ford Mudstang... with a sexy body. It would have had a mechanical ODO that could run backwards. I've always thought it was a very sexy car and building one would be great!
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

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    I checked out whitegauges.net, and it turns out they only work on traditional mechanical gauges, not electronic. They were, however, able to recommend Kevin Leonard in Napoleon Ohio (419 769 1845) who can do the reset.

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    I was afraid of that. I also just sent them an email and they didn't respond yet. Are you going to have Kevin do yours?

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    I looked at hooking a pulse generator up to it running it up to 1,000,000 miles ie back to zero. At 140 MPH and running up another 900,000 miles it would only take 6,428 hours, or 268 days, or 10 months. Oh well I may run mine up to 100K to call it good! It would be a great post if someone found a better way.

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    Senior Member Xusia's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RM1SepEx View Post
    That was really an 80's Ford Mudstang... with a sexy body. It would have had a mechanical ODO that could run backwards. I've always thought it was a very sexy car and building one would be great!
    I believe it was actually a kit car. It may have used Mustang running gear, but I'm pretty sure it was an original frame/body. I recall because I looked into that kit car back when it was still around.

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    " a modified MG with a fiberglass body "

    http://wheels.blogs.nytimes.com/2010...rari-for-sale/

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    Yes. I'll just send him the cluster, and he will return it with the bill.

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    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry J W View Post
    I looked at hooking a pulse generator up to it running it up to 1,000,000 miles ie back to zero. At 140 MPH and running up another 900,000 miles it would only take 6,428 hours, or 268 days, or 10 months. Oh well I may run mine up to 100K to call it good! It would be a great post if someone found a better way.
    I was thinking the same thing but I figured I would run the pulses as fast as possible. I cant imagine there is a speed limit. The counter is on this IC - TMPH8820CKF manufactured by NS Japan the only other identification #'s are 1048 and 048KA. If I could find the data sheet on it then I could figure out how to reset it by the pinout. No luck so far.

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    I hear that these people http://www.tacomaspeedometer.com/index/index.php can change it.

    Another option is to buy a new one from the dealer. I would opt out for a STI cluster tho.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kyle@AJW View Post
    I hear that these people http://www.tacomaspeedometer.com/index/index.php can change it.

    Another option is to buy a new one from the dealer. I would opt out for a STI cluster tho.
    I drive by this shop daily on the way to work! Ill have to look into this.

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    http://www.sayospeedometers.com/contact.html

    They say they do it all of the time!

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    Once you car is running you could always take it to the closest Subaru dealer and they can reset it.

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    Are you sure the dealer will do that kind of work? Any idea on cost?

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    iWire's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmoretta View Post
    Are you sure the dealer will do that kind of work? Any idea on cost?
    Depends on the dealer, but yes they usually do. They'll probably charge you for an hour, so depending on the labor I would say around $100.

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    Senior Member DodgyTim's Avatar
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    I'm not sure about the US but in Australia the dealer reset is only possible for very low miles, so the dealer can remove delivery miles and present the car as new.
    Once a certain mileage threshold is passed, the dealer reset won't work, but as I said, it may be different for other countries.

  20. #20
    iWire's Avatar
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    If the dealer won't do you could try one of these as well. Some guys on RS25 have used them for their Subaru cluster odometer reset.

    http://www.paspeedo.com/

    http://www.aaellc.com/

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    Quote Originally Posted by Quiny View Post
    I was thinking the same thing but I figured I would run the pulses as fast as possible. I cant imagine there is a speed limit. The counter is on this IC - TMPH8820CKF manufactured by NS Japan the only other identification #'s are 1048 and 048KA. If I could find the data sheet on it then I could figure out how to reset it by the pinout. No luck so far.
    I just tried it. Above about 705 MPH (about 800 Hz) it won't process the signal. I need to go 892000 miles which would take about 53 days.

    Kind of fun to watch the odometer click off a mile in about 5.1 seconds.

    Larry

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    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K3LAG View Post
    I just tried it. Above about 705 MPH (about 800 Hz) it won't process the signal. I need to go 892000 miles which would take about 53 days.

    Kind of fun to watch the odometer click off a mile in about 5.1 seconds.

    Larry
    That is cool, you could set it up to count until first test drive.
    Bob

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    Senior Member Kalstar's Avatar
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    This is who I called.

    http://www.mileagecorrectionservices...tion-services/

    They need the vin # and a letter as to why you are requesting the changing of miles. I told them what I was doing and they were fine with making the change.

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    Quote Originally Posted by K3LAG View Post
    I just tried it. Above about 705 MPH (about 800 Hz) it won't process the signal. I need to go 892000 miles which would take about 53 days.

    Kind of fun to watch the odometer click off a mile in about 5.1 seconds.

    Larry
    I tweaked the signal a little more.

    Now 914 Hz, 802 MPH, 46.34 days. It's really on the hairy edge. I don't think I can get any more out of it.

    IMG_0063.jpg

    Larry
    Last edited by K3LAG; 01-20-2014 at 11:13 PM. Reason: added image

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    Senior Member EODTech87's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kalstar View Post
    This is who I called.

    http://www.mileagecorrectionservices...tion-services/

    They need the vin # and a letter as to why you are requesting the changing of miles. I told them what I was doing and they were fine with making the change.
    how much did they want?

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    Senior Member wleehendrick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K3LAG View Post
    I tweaked the signal a little more.

    Now 914 Hz, 802 MPH, 46.34 days. It's really on the hairy edge. I don't think I can get any more out of it.

    IMG_0063.jpg

    Larry
    Spoken like a true engineer...



    f69a88d77826b242c26e337490d75e114399790b8362407b82e8132ef8d0b597.jpg

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    East Coast Speed Machines Erik W. Treves's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kalstar View Post
    This is who I called.

    http://www.mileagecorrectionservices...tion-services/

    They need the vin # and a letter as to why you are requesting the changing of miles. I told them what I was doing and they were fine with making the change.
    and how much did they quote you?
    FFR 1879, Blown DSS 306,REDLINE management, VeryCoolParts Tuned 460RWHP

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    Quote Originally Posted by K3LAG View Post
    Now 914 Hz, 802 MPH, 46.34 days.
    IMG_0063.jpg

    Larry
    I'll be back in March
    A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.

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    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K3LAG View Post
    I tweaked the signal a little more.

    Now 914 Hz, 802 MPH, 46.34 days. It's really on the hairy edge. I don't think I can get any more out of it.

    IMG_0063.jpg

    Larry
    very cool, is that a 5v pulse?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Quiny View Post
    very cool, is that a 5v pulse?
    Approximately. The higher I push the frequency the more I have to tweak the voltage. At normal speeds, the pulse can be pretty big, but as I increased the frequency I had to reduce the pulse size and add a little positive offset. The bottom is a little under 2 volts and the top is almost 6.

    I had to reduce the frequency back down somewhat last night. At 914 Hz it was so touchy that it would stop after about 20 minutes. It's down in the mid 800's now and has been running for over 12 hours with no problems.

    It's fun to have an excuse to get the oscilloscope out. I'm still trying to justify upgrading to a digital scope one of these days. The old Tek 2465A is getting a little flaky at times. It's pushing 30 years old, so that shouldn't surprise me. It's just that a new 350 MHz scope is expensive. Especially one with 4 channels.

    Larry

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    Senior Member Quiny's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K3LAG View Post
    Approximately. The higher I push the frequency the more I have to tweak the voltage. At normal speeds, the pulse can be pretty big, but as I increased the frequency I had to reduce the pulse size and add a little positive offset. The bottom is a little under 2 volts and the top is almost 6.

    I had to reduce the frequency back down somewhat last night. At 914 Hz it was so touchy that it would stop after about 20 minutes. It's down in the mid 800's now and has been running for over 12 hours with no problems.

    It's fun to have an excuse to get the oscilloscope out. I'm still trying to justify upgrading to a digital scope one of these days. The old Tek 2465A is getting a little flaky at times. It's pushing 30 years old, so that shouldn't surprise me. It's just that a new 350 MHz scope is expensive. Especially one with 4 channels.

    Larry
    I have an older Fluke digital scope and all I can say is that I miss my really old Hitachi. So is the dash in the car or did you just power it up on the bench? I just got my kit, maybe I will do the same thing and use it as inspiration to finish the car before the odometer rollsover. I will just have to set it to 100Hz (gonna take me awhile)

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    Senior Member Kalstar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Erik W. Treves View Post
    and how much did they quote you?
    It was around $75.00 US dollar plus shipping.

  33. #33
    K3LAG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quiny View Post
    I have an older Fluke digital scope and all I can say is that I miss my really old Hitachi. So is the dash in the car or did you just power it up on the bench? I just got my kit, maybe I will do the same thing and use it as inspiration to finish the car before the odometer rollsover. I will just have to set it to 100Hz (gonna take me awhile)
    On bench. Won't go into car for a while yet. Only have to connect four pins. Pins 7 and 10 get power, Pin 6 gets ground, and Pin 2 gets speed sensor signal. All on connector C. I don't know if the pins are the same on all years. Mine is a 2005.
    Last edited by K3LAG; 01-21-2014 at 02:31 PM.

  34. #34
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Great work K3LAG
    I have lots of test equipment, oscopes, 32 channel data reecorders, canbus analizers and such.
    I don't have a signal generator, can we all send over our clusters for a parallel race to zero miles. JK.

    Have you thought about just replacing the 8 pin eeprom on the cluster circuit board?
    Bob

  35. #35
    Senior Member Oppenheimer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K3LAG View Post
    On bench. Won't go into car for a while yet. Only have to connect four pins. Pins 7 and 10 get power, Pin 6 gets ground, and Pin 2 gets speed sensor signal. All on connector C. I don't know if the pins are the same on all years. Mine is a 2005.
    Are you guys certain that the digital odometer will actually roll over back to 0 once you go past all 9's like old school mechanical units do? Would be a rude surprise to find out it gets to all 9's and just stays there.

  36. #36
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oppenheimer View Post
    Are you guys certain that the digital odometer will actually roll over back to 0 once you go past all 9's like old school mechanical units do? Would be a rude surprise to find out it gets to all 9's and just stays there.
    it may just hang at 999,999. Only one way to find out.
    K3LAG, Let us know when you get there.
    Bob

  37. #37
    K3LAG's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    Great work K3LAG
    I have lots of test equipment, oscopes, 32 channel data reecorders, canbus analizers and such.
    I don't have a signal generator, can we all send over our clusters for a parallel race to zero miles. JK.

    Have you thought about just replacing the 8 pin eeprom on the cluster circuit board?
    Bob
    I haven't even taken the back off the cluster to see what is there. Might be worth looking at, but I don't know enough about how the cluster works to know if that might screw up something else.

    My signal generator is a cheap one. It's a Vectronics VEC-4001K. You build it from a $99 kit . It does sine, square and triangle waves from 1 Hz to 1 MHz. Adjustable amplitude from 0-12 volts and offset from -6 to +6 volts. Building hobby stuff is one of the rare times I get to use a soldering iron any more.

    Larry
    Last edited by K3LAG; 01-22-2014 at 11:53 AM.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob_n_Cincy View Post
    it may just hang at 999,999. Only one way to find out.
    K3LAG, Let us know when you get there.
    Bob
    I hope it doesn't hang. I wouldn't think it would. While I expect it's extremely rare (if ever) for a WRX to exceed 1 million miles, you would still need to count the mileage once you did. I wouldn't think it would be acceptable to just stop counting.

    At the current rate, it should roll over on March 10 at 8:45 PM. It's currently running at an equivalent of 760 MPH.

    While the engineer in me enjoys doing it this way. It's only worth it since I have all the stuff (and time) to do it. Paying someone $100 or less to reset it is probably a smarter way to do it.

    Larry

  39. #39
    Senior Member Bob_n_Cincy's Avatar
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    Changing cluster memory chip or backlight color

    here is a video on reprogramming the cluster memory chip


    Her is a video on changing the color of the back lighting on the cluster.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ym4keiOblGo

  40. #40
    Senior Member Xusia's Avatar
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    For what it's worth, I called a bunch of speedo repair places (most listed previously in this thread) and learned the following:
    Sayo Speedometers: $150 + shipping
    Tacoma Speedometer: They claimed resetting the odometer to zero is against the law, and wanted no part in it. This was after I explained the original car is being dismantled and that the cluster would go into a new car.
    Palo Alto Speedometer: $175 + shipping
    Advanced Auto Electronics: $140 + shipping
    Subaru Mileage Correction Services: They are in the UK, so I didn't bother.

    I plan to go with Advanced Auto Electronics, not because they are the cheapest, but because I liked what they had to say. They actually disassemble the cluster, reprogram the chip(s) directly, and then calibrate every single guage. Awesome! And they were friendly too...

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