Master cylinder mounting flange

[michael everson]

Here is a couple of pics of a new mounting flange I am working on. This will resolve the interference with the pedal box. Let me know what you think. the actual part will be made from 3/16 Steel and powder coated black.
Thanks Mike

[gwarden]

Will this allow for booster and or the FFR supplied push rod?

[michael everson]

I don't think it will work with the booster. It should be ok with the FFR supplied pushrod.
Mike

[Goldwing]

I believe there was enough adjustment in the FFR pushrod (Man! You gotta be careful how you word that! Lol), but it might be worth advising to drill the hole in the brake pedal arm more towards the back of the pedal (towards the front of the car) to ensure enough reach without having to source a new pushrod. I don't have a lot of thread left to adjust, and I copied the book which leans towards drilling on the front of the pedal (car rear).

[K3LAG]

I believe there was enough adjustment in the FFR pushrod (Man! You gotta be careful how you word that! Lol), but it might be worth advising to drill the hole in the brake pedal arm more towards the back of the pedal (towards the front of the car) to ensure enough reach without having to source a new pushrod. I don't have a lot of thread left to adjust, and I copied the book which leans towards drilling on the front of the pedal (car rear).

I don't have much extra pushrod on mine either.

Mike, where was this a month ago when I needed it? Now that I have it all done the FFR way, I probably wouldn't change it unless I needed to go back in there for some reason.

Larry

[AZPete]

Nice work, Mike, but I also wish you had offered it months ago when I needed it. Now, please work on a hinge & latch system for the front hood and rear engine cover. IMHO, the pins look too kit-car-ish.

[K3LAG]

Now, please work on a hinge & latch system for the front hood and rear engine cover. IMHO, the pins look too kit-car-ish.

yeah, what AZPete said! ;-)

[michael everson]

Pete and K3Lag Its on my list if FFR doesnt beat me too it. (I hope they do)

[bompus]

There's also AeroCatch ( which can lock ) - I'd love to see either a hinge/latch system or somebody who decides to give the AeroCatch fasteners a try. But now we are off the original topic and I'm not going to hijack this thread any longer

[Bill Waters]

Guys - please help inform me - what is the issue for which Mike is creating the above flange?

Thanks,

Bill

[K3LAG]

Difficulty installing the master cylinder bolts due to clearance issues and the fact that when installed using predrilled holes the master cylinder is a little crooked. It works the way it is, but isn't very elegant. Mike's solution should be easier to install and more aesthetically pleasing.

Larry

[michael everson]

Also, if you ever need to remove the master cylinder you can do it from one side instead of needing 2 people to do it.
Mike

[metros]

Sign me up for one that's powdercoated black.

I would also be very interested in a hinge set up for front and rear. I worry about removing either at the track and them getting damaged while off the car.

[michael everson]

Ok Metros. I hope to have soem ready by the end of the week.
Mike

[Bill Waters]

Thanks, K3LAG and Mike.

Mike, I'll take one, too. Do I PM you?

Thanks,

Bill

[wleehendrick]

All of Mike's parts are good stuff. If I had not already mounted my MC by dremeling off half the head of a hex bolt I'd be all over this!

[michael everson]

Let me get some made up and fix a price.
Thanks mike

[Westview]

Mike,

Add me to the list of interested parties.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Mike
I don't see how that will work. the holes in the fire wall are square pattern and the mc is side by side.
Also, FFR has you move the connection point up the pedal shaft. So the MC is not centered on the hole like your bracket.
Please post a picture of it installed.
Bob

mc mount.jpg mc mount2.jpg

[michael everson]

Bob. My part is basically rotates the mounting holes so that you can mount it level, remove it from just one side of the firewall and clear all the parts of the pedal box. Unfortunately the first design was a total failure. Like you pointed out the master cylinder is offset in the hole. This gave me no mounting point on the lower hole. Design 2 will be extended so that I can pick up the plate that the pedal box is mounted to. Live and learn. Should have taken a closer look at my firewall. My aluminum is all installed so I missed this. 20 beautiful parts in the scrap pile. BTW this is only for the brake master.
Mike

[Xusia]

I don't fully understand. How is the MC offset? Do you mean it's higher up in the large hold of the pedal box? Is there a reason the MC couldn't be located in the center of the large hole in the pedal box?

[michael everson]

Yes. It's offset up. I suppose if you centered it, the pushrod would be at a angle.
Mike

[Xusia]

Couldn't you just drill the hole on the brake pedal lower then?

[Goldwing]

Probably, yes. But I think the 1/2" move up was to increase leverage to help reduce required pedal pressures after losing the booster. I think it was a fine tuning move. Dropping the booster was needed because it was too touchy to modulate. But the result was a little too much required pressure, so they moved the hole up the brake pedal to bring it to a better pedal feel. If I explained that well.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Mike,
Is your new design going to have 4 studs to go into the pedal box and 2 the other way for the master cylinder?
Bob

[michael everson]

no 2 and 2. but that might be better. Let me look into it.
My current design does allow you to use the forth pedal box hole though.
Mike

[michael everson]

Ok here is revision 2. This should work much better. I will post pics of the install tomorrow.
Mike

[michael everson]

Here is the flange mounted to the car.



With master cylinder remounted. This bracket will allow you to level the master cylinder. Also it will be much easier to remove later if needed. just 2 nuts from the outside. it is now possible to use the 4th bolt in the pedal box too, if you level the bracket.

Price will be $27.00 including all hardware and new longer pushrod.

[taco20]

Hey can you get it without the powder coat? If so sign me up for one.

[michael everson]

Yes. Of course. What finish are you planning?
mike

[306rangerfordguy]

Looks like a nice quality piece.

[gwarden]

I'm in where do I order it?

[07FIREBLADE]

How many brackets do you have in stock?

[michael everson]

12 in stock
Mike

[65 Cobra Dude]

Mike,

I'll take one - please send to my MA address.

Thx,

Henry

[Westview]

I'm in. How do I get one?

[Bill Waters]

Me, too; I've PM'ed you.

Bill

[DMC7492]

Hi guys is the feel of the pedal going to be different on every kit based on which brakes we are running? The four piston brakes compared to the two piston wrx calipers would certainly make a difference.
So do we move the position of the rod? Don

[Xusia]

Hi guys is the feel of the pedal going to be different on every kit based on which brakes we are running? The four piston brakes compared to the two piston wrx calipers would certainly make a difference.

I would think the feel would be different, because they are different brakes.

So do we move the position of the rod? Don

FFR has you mount the brake master cylinder as high as possible, which results in the pushrod being mounted 1/2" higher on the pedal. This gives you the most leverage (which reduces effort), and allows the most pedal travel (which increases control). So in effect, you are getting the best experience whatever brakes you are using can deliver.

So, if you are asking if the rod is positioned differently from Subaru OEM, the answer is yes. If you are asking whether or not you should position the rod differently based on the specific brakes you have, the answer is no.

EDIT: I think I might have misunderstood the question. I modified my original response for clarity.

[Goldwing]

Yes, it gets moved. I bet there will be some difference in feel, especially in travel as you have to move more fluid with the 4-pot/2-pot setup. The build book doesn't differentiate between brake setups and has you move the pushrod 1/2" up the brake pedal for leverage. (Assuming no brake boost as recommended). They were very touchy and difficult to modulate with the brake booster on place. I guess without the booster, the brake pedal effort was viewed as too high, thus the pushrod adjustment upward.