when adding lenght to wires do you use same color wires?

[indiana818]

i was thinking about where i need to add length on the oem harness and was wondering
what everyone did when needing to add lenght. need advice

[Mechie3]

I mostly found dieted wire that matched. If it didn't match exactly I made it close (maybe skipped matching stripes).

[EODTech87]

It's just your personal preference. I'm just going to use plain ol' black wire. It will all be wireloomed anyways.

[RM1SepEx]

Bad Timing, Ditto to Craig, I tried to get close. I left enough of the wire at the connector to ID the connection.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I spent the first 5 year of my career troubleshooting complex machines.
Never change a color in the middle of a run. (red on one end and black on the other end)
Adding an extension in the middle is fine. ( red on both ends and black in the middle.
Bob

[VD2021]

I usually use the the same color. Primary is usually priced the best for red or black and that's primarily what I buy.

[indiana818]

i agree
thanks bob

[Hazelwwp]

I just used black to extend the length, but THE ORIGINAL COLOR IS AT EACH END.

[metalmaker12]

Try to get them close, you might get side tracked and forget where you are etc.

[68GT500MAN]

I use the technique of cutting the wire needing aditional length somewhere in the middle, splice in a wire of the same gauge in any color, then wrap in either tape or wire loom.
Doug

[apexanimal]

what gauge are most of the wires?

[Tom Mauldin]

Make sure that you note in your wiring diagram that you made a splice, even if it is the same color. It will help troubleshooting later if needed.

[mrprgrmr]

My vote is match colors if possible. I've done some other projects with all the same color wire. It becomes really hard to troubleshoot after a while.

[Cobradavid]

Make sure that you note in your wiring diagram that you made a splice, even if it is the same color. It will help troubleshooting later if needed.

X2! It's always good to document what you did for later reference.

David

[Scargo]

I've gathered some resources for automotive grade wire, connectors and so-on if anyone wants me to post them.

I was told recently that a barrel crimp connection is now used by the military in splicing applications where vibration and movement is a problem. Wires seem to break first at the end of the solder joint. While I have always soldered I am reconsidering where I do splices. If they are not going to move then I will solder them. I am going to do everything I can not to have a splice in an unsupported flexing wire, like those going to the engine. However, bundling multiple wires together will help reduce flexing.

[metalmaker12]

On the main circuits ( fuel, spark, mass airflow, crank, cam, iac, dbw if applied, ign, cluster, ecu, etc etc make sure you use the correct gauge wire for close to proper resistance to these systems. The fuse ratings were gauged on the line length and load for proper resistance for the oem harness. When we alter them, we are changing these fields and we may alter the safe operating range. There are equations for this, but I am not the guy for this. I just try it and over test it in all extremes. If it holds up and nothing major happens I usually go with it within reason.

[frankeeski]

I've been doing electrical for many, many years and gauge of the wire is much more important than the color. When possible use the same color or as close to it as you can but you don't need to go broke trying to get the car wired. Another important item is the manner in which you splice, I always solder and then shrink tube. You are going to get conflicting advise, so ultimately you have to decide.

[maczter]

Try to match as much as possible...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/230843493552...84.m1423.l2649

[Scargo]

Not that there is anything particularly wrong with Chinese wire or it's insulation jacket properties, but this is loose wire with no credentials. Have you used it? I'd worry about using it around the engine. It's probably no better than TWP or just thin-wall PVC insulation which is only good to 176° F.
Buy here and other places by the foot.

Try to match as much as possible...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/230843493552...84.m1423.l2649

[svanlare]

Like frankeeski I'm of the school of thought that the manner in which you splice is very important. Support the joint to prevent flexing. Whether you go solder or crimp, sealing the connection with heat shrink provides some environment protection and strain relief. Google heat shrink connector and you'll find a vast array of good options to buy bulk.

[temperacerguy]

I've gathered some resources for automotive grade wire, connectors and so-on if anyone wants me to post them.

I was told recently that a barrel crimp connection is now used by the military in splicing applications where vibration and movement is a problem. Wires seem to break first at the end of the solder joint. While I have always soldered I am reconsidering where I do splices. If they are not going to move then I will solder them. I am going to do everything I can not to have a splice in an unsupported flexing wire, like those going to the engine. However, bundling multiple wires together will help reduce flexing.

I would love your resources.... When making new custom harnesses, I typically use Tefzel wire in various colors, but I have been looking for a good source of OEM quality wire in different colors (with different color stripes) in various gauges.. I would love to start to build a collection 100' at a time with all the various projects I do.

The military and aerospace have been using barrel crimps for many, MANY years, as solder joints can easily crack with vibration(as the heat not only makes the solder hard and brittle, but the wire being soldered a few mm from the solder. Also the heat will damage the insulation. HOWEVER: They are not the barrel crimps that most of you know. They are 2 pieces.

11-04427m.jpg

You slide the insulator over one of the wires, then strip only enough insulation off of your wires so that the tip of the wire touches the center divider, and the insulation makes contact with the butt connector. Then you crimp with a ratcheting crimping tool. You then do the same for the other side of the wire, then slide the insulator over the butt connection, and using a heat shrink, start at one end, and heat to the other. (there is a wax ring on the side you start shrinking, and the wax flows through the splice joint eliminating any chance of corrosion.

They cost about $1 each, and every time I was at the base, I would fill a small DOTTS candy box with them. (statute of limitations is over)

[rtz]

Possible source for wire: http://www.waytekwire.com/products/1...oss-Link-Wire/

[Scargo]

Resources I think look promising. Caveat: I have not used any of these yet and am not endorsing them. Just looks like they have some quality products for wiring a car.

http://www.skygeek.com/mil-w-22759-1...raft-wire.html Mil-spec wire and more.
http://www.waytekwire.com/products/1453/Wire-Cable/ Wire and cable
http://www.prowireusa.com/default.aspx wire, connectors breakers and more
http://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/ind...tk9l7lbf5vnvo5 Lots of connectors, wire and more
http://www.awcwire.com/productspec.aspx?id=type-txl Lots of wiring stuff
http://www.kayjayco.com/catPConnectors.htm Has most everything as above links
http://www.delcity.net/store/Heat-Sh...4.h_801795.t_1 heat-shrink butt connectors and most everything else
http://www.whiteproducts.com/splices.shtml adhesive lined heat-shrink butt connectors, Weatherpack connectors and more
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html Does high-end race car wiring and has some neat specialized products as well.
http://www.cabletiesandmore.com/WrapAroundSleeving.php sleeving, ties and wire management stuff.