Oregon 818S build maybe the first?

[waruaki]

In the continuing effort to get the racing seats back as far back as possible we (like a majority of builders) have scrapped the FFR tank. If you are 5', 8" or taller IMHO you will not be comfortable and will find your knees bent up into your elbows. The Boyd tank is an expensive option but an option none the less but we wanted even more leg room available to us so we decided to fabricate our own aluminum tank.
We started with 1/10th 5052 aluminum measuring 36"X48" and went to work on the sheet metal brake. The tank is designed to match the angle of the rear of our racing seats. We also bent the lower lip of the cockpit wall to match the seat angle (see picture). After making our bends on the tank we started on the baffle to ensure the sock on the bottom of the pump pickup stays wet with plenty of fuel. We used the WRX OEM pump and fuel level sender and the only modification was to shorten its length 2." and then tig welded it back together on the Miller Syncrowave to compensate for our decreased tank heidth. A ¼” thick aluminum locking ring was then fabricated on the lathe and 8 holes drilled and tapped to 8-32 and then the ring was welded onto the tank. We then used a 1/8” sheet of Buna-N nitrile rubber for our gasket and punched 8 holes for our allen cap machine screws.
After cutting holes for the vent and the filler we needed a section of 2 inch OD aluminum pipe to weld on for our filler hose to connect too. As things go sometimes we had several sizes available in the shop but of course no 2 inch. Dad took a scrap section of the 1/10th aluminum sheet, cut it down on the band saw and hand formed it into the correct shape and size. It was then tig welded up the seam and the welds ground down to create the correct pipe section we needed for the filler. We will pressurize the tank with air and check for leaks and address them if we find any. The tank dimensions are 46"X 6" at the bottom and 4.5"at the top and 11" tall and will hold about 9 gallons.

[RM1SepEx]

very nice!

[Canadian818]

Nice work. Any pics of the locking ring?

[waruaki]

Nice work. Any pics of the locking ring?

Probably not the best vernacular on my part as it's not really a locking ring. Its a circular flange that was welded onto the tank with 8 holes drilled and tapped through it to compress the OEM fuel assembly against the nitrile rubber gasket when you tighten the eight machine screws. You can see it under the gasket in picture #3 before it was welded onto the tank.

[jimgood]

With a flat bottom tank like that, how does it keep the pick-up submerged in fuel when the fuel level gets low and you're in a long sweeping turn? I see the baffles but are they enough to prevent fuel starvation? I would have thought you'd want a bowl that traps a couple cups of fuel that is below the bottom of the rest of the tank. I don't know squat so I'm just asking.

[waruaki]

The baffles will keep the fuel centered on the sock in sweeping turns when the fuel is low like you mentioned. Not much different than the FFR or Boyd tank design in that regard.

[waruaki]

[longislandwrx]

congrats, that's running nice and smooth.

[Frank818]

Wow no updates in 4 months, but what a great one now. Was worth the wait!

[Kurk818]

Congrats on the major accomplishment. Looks like you used the factory wiring. Can you post more photos (particularly the fuse box locations/mountings) and what aspects of the donor were removed?

[waruaki]

Thanks for the comments.
It’s been a long time getting to this point in the build. After the first of the year I had to cut back to two days a week on the kit because of other responsibilities and then we lost several weeks diagnosing and chasing a wiring short that was ultimately caused by the front end accident that totaled our donor.
See post
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...2002-WRX-build

I have a few smaller pictures of the two fuse boxes and where we mounted them. Our build is a little different as our ECM is going to be mounted in the passenger compartment rather than behind the passenger seat.
Yes, I did use the OEM harness and there are several great post’s on the forum on how and what to “diet”.

From memory we removed:

ABS
Air Bags
AC/Heater and Defrost
Security System
Radio
Rear O2 Sensor
Exhaust Temp Sensor
TGVs
Cruise Control
All the gas tank sensors with the exception of the primary fuel level sensor
Side marker and fog lights
Door switches and power windows

We did retain and wired in the power mirrors though.

[waruaki]

I need to nail down my wheel selection for my 818 and I'm hoping someone who has already gone down this path can clarify a few things for me. I'm using the stock trailing arms and wheel studs from my 2002 donor and would like to know if I use 17" and 18" wheels with a 45mm offset and (5MM spacers)? will I be able to use the stock wheel studs and have enough threads to mount the wheels safely? The wheels I'm looking at are the EKM3 by Enkei http://www.enkei.com/ekm3.shtml# and the size chart http://www.enkei.com/size_chart/EKM3.pdf Regarding tires is what FFR is recommending correct 215/40/17 and 245/35/18 with the above wheels?

Thanks in advance.


enkei_ekm3_silver_large.jpg

[Frank818]

Thought FFR recommends 255/35/18 rears.

[waruaki]

They do and they don't. Per the manual "Rear maximum tire width: 255 (some brands are wider and may only fit a 245)"

[Frank818]

It's true all that is somewhat debatable as there are no true standards when using this way of identifying tire sizes.

[waruaki]

It's true all that is somewhat debatable as there are no true standards when using this way of identifying tire sizes.

Agreed. That's why I listed the conservative number to be on the safe side as they mentioned both sizes. I would prefer to only buy one set of tires.

[Kurk818]

Im going to be running 295's in the rear and 255's in front with obvious flare modification btw.

http://i.imgur.com/rlSS3Yfl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/JD8vk1zl.jpg

How did you go about actually mounting the fuse boxes? I cant seem to find a sturdy way of securing them in place. The FFR supplied mounting brackets dont make any sense to me.

[waruaki]

Big tires. I'm assuming you have changed to longer wheel studs and an aftermarket trailing arm to accommodate the larger wheels?
I'm using an aluminum rear fire wall and fabricated brackets to mount the main fuse box to it. Its just cut down aluminum channel stock with holes drilled in it to allow machine screws to secure it. Nothing to fancy, similar setup in the front to hold the fuse/relay box in place. I didn't use any of the supplied hardware from FFR for this application.

[Kurk818]

There is no need for longer studs unless i end up putting wheel spacers on the front (which i will do in the future). I do have aftermarket trailing arms and lateral links. Your wiring definitely looks cleaner than mine.

http://i.imgur.com/t6aQiQbl.jpg

[waruaki]

What is the offset of the wheels you are running?

Thanks.

As for the wiring depending on how far along with the diet you are I suggest taking 2 4x8 pieces of plywood joining them together and screwing them down onto 2 2x4s and placing the new table on a couple of saw horses. Then lay out your harness so it matches as closely as possible its orientation as it will be in the 818. Then go to town removing sub systems you don't need. I didn't put mine in our 818 until the diet was done. Then all I had to do was add a few extensions when it was in the kit and mount the fuse boxes.

[Kurk818]

18x10.5 [+20mm] Rear
18x8.5 [+35mm] Front.

I will be adding a 15mm spacer to the front to clear my rotors

[metalmaker12]

Kurk, do you have your kit yet, that huge widths, flares I would guess.

[Kurk818]

Yes, i received my kit on 1/28. I have an 06 STI as a donor. Transmission is in and converted to 2wd. Shifter brackets have been made. Engine has been fired and running good. Brakes, clutch and axles all done. Looking to mount seats and go kart it in the next week or so. Excited to see it rolling!

My math estimates that ill need approx 2" of flare on the back and approx 1.25" on the front. Ive been looking at jdmflares. com for the carbon fiber flares and will see exactly what i need when i have the body on.

Kurk, do you have your kit yet, that huge widths, flares I would guess.

[waruaki]

Kurk,

Here are a few pictures (not the best) of the mounting brackets for the fuse boxes on our car.





photo 2.JPG photo 1.JPG photo 3.JPG photo 4.JPG

[Kurk818]

Awesome. Are the black side tabs on the rear fuse box your addition or are they part of the fuse box? My 06 doesnt have anything of the sort.

[waruaki]

They were part of the fuse box but were removed and cut down and re drilled to work with the brackets on the firewall.

[waruaki]

Just received our wheels back from powder coat. We went with XXR 530 but wanted silver. Can't believe XXR doesn't offer them in that color. Tires will be here next week. Went with the FEDERAL 595 RS-R RACING 83W. 215/40/17s and 255/35/18s

Muffler and pipe are now welded onto the bell mouth, finalizing muffler hanger. Went with a mini flow master knock off.
•Outlet: 3" Center
•Overall Length: 13"
•Body Length: 6.5"
•Body Type: 4" x 9" Oval

Actually pretty well made but a little noisy.

[Frank818]

I laughed so much when I saw that muffler!!! It looks funny. What a knock off!! Not a rip off, a knock off, not the same thing. As long as it works and stays in place, then great! Looks like you made it yourself or something?

[waruaki]

Okay, I guess you haven't seen or owned a Flowmaster muffler before. Let the lesson begin.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Flowmaster/389...C8TlSl0dPD_BwE

flowmaster_super_10_series_mufflers.jpg

[Frank818]

I guess the color difference tricked me off. Can't wait to hear the sound and compare with the others.

[wleehendrick]

Hi Waruaki, I'm interested in replicating a similar exhaust for my 818 (if I don't buy an AJW and modify it for different exit point). Do you mind sharing where you got your bellmouth; did you hack an aftermarket d/p?

Also, for $70, the real Flowmaster is tempting, not many mufflers are short enough to fit in a straight shot like that, and most are loud. Can you elaborate on "a little noisy"? Flowmaster says "Loudest Most Aggressive Sound, Recommended For Off Highway Use"; I don't mind a loud exhaust, but don't want something too obnoxious.

Thanks,

Lee

[waruaki]

Hi Lee. I have fresh video of the car driving in the neighborhood I took today that I will post shortly. The muffler I purchased off EBay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200991790320...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT If you buy one watch out you don't get laughed at (see post #148)

$33.00 shipped and I would comfortable recommend it to anyone. The bell mouth off the turbo I purchased by it's self from Kinugawa turbo

http://shopping.kinugawaturbo.com/tu...td04ltd05.aspx

See post#24 of my build for more information on the bellmouth. Then Tig welded on a 3" 60 degree stainless exhaust pipe. As the exhaust sit's now I'm reading in the low to mid eighties on my decibel meter when I revving the motor statically. I think with a diffuser tip it will quite down even more. Its not to bad on the street.

Hope this helps.

Brett

[Frank818]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/200991790320...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT If you buy one watch out you don't get laughed at (see post #148)

lolll I deserved it, I admit. I just said it looked funny, that doesn't mean it's not useful or even that I would not get one myself. I may, after reading more about it, who knows... Personally I don't care at all how the muffler looks, that's not its purpose! No hard feelings, man.

I tell yeah something. Once I get my muffler in place, I'll show you a pic. I honestly think that, if I don't get a Flowmaster and have someone build me a custom muffler, you'll laugh at it as it's gonna be the worst on this forum. I'm ready to make that bet.

[waruaki]

A few new pictures with the XXR 530 wheels freshly powder coated in Pacific Silver by Advantage Metal Works & Powder Coating in Albany. Highly recommend! Muffler and it's hanger are finished and welded with some silver high temp paint applied. Also a short video carting through the neighborhood, unfortunity the video camera wanted to focus on everything but the car. Trouble codes are all resolved (no more check engine light) and the car has received a mild tune. Anyone who has a kit but has yet to cart it you will be blown away by how quick these cars are!

Looks like its time to start on bodywork.

[metalmaker12]

They are very fast!! Looks sharpe nice job so far.
Looks familiar image.jpg

[waruaki]

They are very fast!! Looks sharpe nice job so far.
Looks familiar image.jpg

Very much so. Thanks for the compliment.

[waruaki]

Since the beginning of our build we have been concerned like most builders with heat soak forming in the stock air to air intercooler and reducing performance. We have considered improving the ducts on the top of the rear fenders (which we plan to do) as well as forming a scoop on top of the intercooler. The problem with all of these is getting adequate outside air forced through the intercooler. On our S model the heidth of the windshield makes air flow problematic for a rear mounted hood scoop. Our personal solution (untested so far except statically in the garage) has been to fabricate an aluminum shroud and install some type of pusher fan assembly. Unfortunately the clearance underneath the intercooler prohibited the use of puller fans so two pusher fans were selected. After comparing manufactures, sizes and CFM I chose a pair of SPA 30100403 6.5’’ Fans.
They produce 325 CFM each at 5.5 AMPS and have sealed motors in a water proof/dust proof housing. See attached link for specifications on the fans. The current plan is to add a screened vent on top of the intercooler in the fiberglass hood (see picture, thanks Wallace) to allow the fans to draw in air from the outside as well as using a screen instead of the sheet medal behind the seats leading into the front of the engine compartment.

Managing the fans will be an Auber Instruments automotive multimeter using a RTD air intake temperature probe. Giving real time air temperature readings leaving the intercooler and turning the fans on and off at a set temperature.
The fans and shroud weight in at just under 5 lbs total. This is just my idea and may not be the fix all or perfect solution but so far I'm impressed with the volume of air coming out of the bottom of the intercooler.

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...products_id=19
http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...roducts_id=167
https://webstore.spalusa.com/en-us/p...6-5-s-12v.aspx
https://webstore.spalusa.com/content...00403_SPEC.pdf

[wleehendrick]

Hi Lee. I have fresh video of the car driving in the neighborhood I took today that I will post shortly. The muffler I purchased off EBay

As the exhaust sit's now I'm reading in the low to mid eighties on my decibel meter when I revving the motor statically. I think with a diffuser tip it will quite down even more. Its not to bad on the street.

Hope this helps.

Brett

Hi Brett,

Congrats on the go-cart... looks and sounds great! Since imitation is the the sincerest form of flattery, I hope you don't mind if I copy your exhaust design. This is what I was hoping AJW would offer, but they've gone a slightly different route. Your design simple and elegant, so I just ordered the bellmouth, and I'll probably get the real FlowMaster muffler to keep it all SS and add a resonated tip.

Thanks again!

Lee

[waruaki]

Hi Brett,

Congrats on the go-cart... looks and sounds great! Since imitation is the the sincerest form of flattery, I hope you don't mind if I copy your exhaust design. This is what I was hoping AJW would offer, but they've gone a slightly different route. Your design simple and elegant, so I just ordered the bellmouth, and I'll probably get the real FlowMaster muffler to keep it all SS and add a resonated tip.

Thanks again!

Lee

Happy to help post a picture when you're finished.

[Stickshift84]

Your build looks awesome, great work!!!

I am also currently trying to figure out how to limit heat soak of the intercooler and I have fit a grimmspeed intercooler to my car (and it fits in the body!!!). I love your idea of the fans and am thinking of doing something similar. Can I ask, how did you attach the shroud to the intercooler?

Also I would recommend against using a screen at the top front of the engine compartment if you plan on a windshield. The low pressure created within the cockpit while driving will more than likely pull hot air from the engine compartment towards the back of your head.