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Thread: 1994 steering rack and control arms.

  1. #1
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    1994 steering rack and control arms.

    I have a MKIII 87-93 kit.

    I have a 1994 steering rack. According to FFR, their inner tie rod kit will allow me to use the 1994 rack.

    Do i keep power steering or use it as manual steering?

    I also have 1994 control arms.
    Do i need to make any changes to the pivit point on the 1994 control arms? (supposedly the 87-93 contol arms require the pivit point changed with spacers provided in the kit)

  2. #2
    Senior Member CraigS's Avatar
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    I am a strong proponent of PS so I say yes, keep it. I don't know about the pivot points but expect that someone here will.
    FFR MkII, 408W, Tremec TKO 500, 2015 IRS, DA QA1s, Forte front bar, APE hardtop.

  3. #3
    Senior Member canuck1's Avatar
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    Your 1994 front LCA's will attach to the inner of the two pivot/mounting points on the FFR chassis. They are slightly longer than earlier styles but your MK III chassis will accommodate them. I also retained PS (with my 95 rack) and it's great. Depowered donor racks are less than optimal.

    Sean
    MK 3.5 roadster (MK IV body retrofit to MK III chassis) 396W stroker, 4 bbl mass air EFI, QH (self-tuned), AFR 195CC Renegade, XE274HR, GP 4-1-4 SS headers, 3link, 3.73, 15" Halibrand replicas, SAI mod, bumpers, 2 X roll bars, IČ electronics, PS, hydroboosted brakes: 95 GT front, custom MK VIII calipers/Cobra discs rear, FFR front, Levy rear LCA's, Forte front, VPM rear bars, CF dash, mod comp layout w/Auto Meter Ultra-Lites, Lucas tri-bar headlights, coupe taillights, painted by SRP (again!)

  4. #4
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    My opinion..either go with the full PS set up, or keep it simple, and buy an aftermarket manual rack, like a Flaming River unit.
    A de-powered donor rack is certainly usable, but not considered the better choice.

  5. #5
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    I'm looking at a Flaming River 1503 manual rack, although I don't know if it's dimensions are right. 45" overall length, 6" of travel, 4 turns lock to lock, 26 spline input shaft with 9/16-18" ends. After getting the basic setup in place, I'm toying with the idea of a shaft mounted electric assist module.

  6. #6
    i.e.427's Avatar
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    If you opted for the base kit from FFR, you most likely recieved a Power Steering rack adapter. If you go full manual, you'll need a different adapter from FFR.

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    my MKIII kit came with spacers for the 87-93 steering rack.

    I will now be using a 1995 steering rack.
    Will i need to use these spacers in the 1995 rack?

    I also have the FFR inner tie rods and FFR tubular lower control arms.

    Do i mount the lower control arms in the 87-93 location or the 94+ location?

  8. #8
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    I used a 94 mustang as a loner car and used the 94 mustang steering rack. However I used a 93 mustang pump. FFR provided an adaptor to use the 94 rack with the steering shaft. No problems, works fine.

  9. #9
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    the MKIII kit comes with spacers that screw into the 87-93 rack. (to add length)
    i assume we do not use these spacers in the 1994+ rack?

  10. #10
    Senior Member canuck1's Avatar
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    Yes, the spacers will fit a 95 rack and most likely improve bump-steer due to the wider pivot point. I have them on my 95 era rack but no longer with donor control arms (I opted for FFR tubular LCAs). 95 donor LCAs mount in the inner set of holes. The 87-93 donor AND FFR tubular LCAs mount in the outer set of holes.

    I'm editing to clarify a few things so you don't curse me later because "I told you this would work!"

    Which steering rack you select doesn't change where the LCAs are supposed to go. Each mounting location is designed for the LCA specified (see above), regardless of rack selection. The 94-04 steering rack is dimensionally the same as the earlier model (input shaft hardware is different though), only the OEM inner tie-rods are longer. That's why FFR supplies shorter replacement inner tie-rods to bring the operating length back to the earlier style. Using the rack extenders (recommended but not required) will mean you will most likely have to trim some length off the threaded ends of the inner tie-rods to make up for the length the extenders add. Rather than ask how much to trim off, you're best to mock it up and figure it out for yourself. There are other variables that exist in most builders components that may make their measurements irrelevant to yours. If you didn't specify an SN95 donor in your kit order then you most likely won't have the right input shaft adapter for the rack (search the 'other' forum for input shaft styles to understand difference between pyramid and splined input shafts).


    Hope that helps!

    Sean
    Last edited by canuck1; 03-01-2017 at 03:28 PM.
    MK 3.5 roadster (MK IV body retrofit to MK III chassis) 396W stroker, 4 bbl mass air EFI, QH (self-tuned), AFR 195CC Renegade, XE274HR, GP 4-1-4 SS headers, 3link, 3.73, 15" Halibrand replicas, SAI mod, bumpers, 2 X roll bars, IČ electronics, PS, hydroboosted brakes: 95 GT front, custom MK VIII calipers/Cobra discs rear, FFR front, Levy rear LCA's, Forte front, VPM rear bars, CF dash, mod comp layout w/Auto Meter Ultra-Lites, Lucas tri-bar headlights, coupe taillights, painted by SRP (again!)

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by canuck1 View Post
    Yes, the spacers will fit a 95 rack and most likely improve bump-steer due to the wider pivot point. I have them on my 95 era rack but no longer with donor control arms (I opted for FFR tubular LCAs). 95 donor LCAs mount in the inner set of holes. The 87-93 donor AND FFR tubular LCAs mount in the outer set of holes.

    I'm editing to clarify a few things so you don't curse me later because "I told you this would work!"

    Which steering rack you select doesn't change where the LCAs are supposed to go. Each mounting location is designed for the LCA specified (see above), regardless of rack selection. The 94-04 steering rack is dimensionally the same as the earlier model (input shaft hardware is different though), only the OEM inner tie-rods are longer. That's why FFR supplies shorter replacement inner tie-rods to bring the operating length back to the earlier style. Using the rack extenders (recommended but not required) will mean you will most likely have to trim some length off the threaded ends of the inner tie-rods to make up for the length the extenders add. Rather than ask how much to trim off, you're best to mock it up and figure it out for yourself. There are other variables that exist in most builders components that may make their measurements irrelevant to yours. If you didn't specify an SN95 donor in your kit order then you most likely won't have the right input shaft adapter for the rack (search the 'other' forum for input shaft styles to understand difference between pyramid and splined input shafts).


    Hope that helps!

    Sean

    thanks! you are the man!

    i am using 1995 rack with FFR tubular lower control arms.

  12. #12
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    so i bought the inner tie rod kit from FFR to install on my 1995 rack.

    I cant get the 1995 outer tie rods to screw on?

  13. #13
    Senior Member Norm B's Avatar
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    You might need the outer tie rod ends for a 87-93. Check the threads on your old ones versus the FFR supplied ones.

    HTH
    Norm

  14. #14
    Senior Member canuck1's Avatar
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    Well, that's surprising... Back when I did my car, you had to select the SN95 donor option if using SN95 era donor style components and they provided new Fox length (shorter) INNER tie-rods as part of the kit but no outer tie-rods were provided. You were supposed to use the donor outers. To be fair, I never actually did (I used Fortes bump-steer kit) but I'm pretty confident the intent was that the tie-rods they provided were supposed to work with your donor outers... I'm at a loss. Do you have or can you find a Fox era outer tie-rod to see if it threads on? I imagine any decent parts store counter would sell/lend you a set if you couldn't scrounge any up otherwise (to return if you don't use)? The threads are sometimes finicky about starting if there is a burr or malformation. Sorry I can't be more help!

    I see Maximum Motorsports confirms the thread pitch is different (metric vs. imperial):

    http://www.maximummotorsports.com/te...ring_rack.aspx

    Sean
    Last edited by canuck1; 03-29-2017 at 05:52 PM. Reason: added link
    MK 3.5 roadster (MK IV body retrofit to MK III chassis) 396W stroker, 4 bbl mass air EFI, QH (self-tuned), AFR 195CC Renegade, XE274HR, GP 4-1-4 SS headers, 3link, 3.73, 15" Halibrand replicas, SAI mod, bumpers, 2 X roll bars, IČ electronics, PS, hydroboosted brakes: 95 GT front, custom MK VIII calipers/Cobra discs rear, FFR front, Levy rear LCA's, Forte front, VPM rear bars, CF dash, mod comp layout w/Auto Meter Ultra-Lites, Lucas tri-bar headlights, coupe taillights, painted by SRP (again!)

  15. #15
    Senior Member Norm B's Avatar
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    Does the new inner tie rod thread onto the rack or rack extenders? I can't remember if Ford kept the rack and inner tie rod threads standard and just changed the outers to metric with the sn95.

    Norm

  16. #16
    Senior Member canuck1's Avatar
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    I do have an SN95 rack that I put FFR rack extenders on and attached the FFR supplied inner tie-rod ends on to. I know those pieces work together!

    Sean
    MK 3.5 roadster (MK IV body retrofit to MK III chassis) 396W stroker, 4 bbl mass air EFI, QH (self-tuned), AFR 195CC Renegade, XE274HR, GP 4-1-4 SS headers, 3link, 3.73, 15" Halibrand replicas, SAI mod, bumpers, 2 X roll bars, IČ electronics, PS, hydroboosted brakes: 95 GT front, custom MK VIII calipers/Cobra discs rear, FFR front, Levy rear LCA's, Forte front, VPM rear bars, CF dash, mod comp layout w/Auto Meter Ultra-Lites, Lucas tri-bar headlights, coupe taillights, painted by SRP (again!)

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by canuck1 View Post
    I do have an SN95 rack that I put FFR rack extenders on and attached the FFR supplied inner tie-rod ends on to. I know those pieces work together!

    Sean
    me too. It is just that the 1995 outer tie rods will not work.
    Will try the 87-93.

  18. #18
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    i ended up only needing one of the spacers on my rack.
    trying to get the steering wheel straight.

    is it common for the steering to crank one full turn to the left and one 1/4 turn to the right? (a little more crank to one side seems odd?

  19. #19
    Senior Member canuck1's Avatar
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    Just to be clear, installed rack extenders (what you're calling 'spacers') looks like this?

    RackExtension.jpg

    Absolutely need one on each side, can't use just one. I suspect your rack isn't/wasn't centered before rough alignment? They aren't really meant to align the front wheels, but for altering the pivot point of the inner tie-rod to better match the other front suspension components' geometry.

    Sean
    MK 3.5 roadster (MK IV body retrofit to MK III chassis) 396W stroker, 4 bbl mass air EFI, QH (self-tuned), AFR 195CC Renegade, XE274HR, GP 4-1-4 SS headers, 3link, 3.73, 15" Halibrand replicas, SAI mod, bumpers, 2 X roll bars, IČ electronics, PS, hydroboosted brakes: 95 GT front, custom MK VIII calipers/Cobra discs rear, FFR front, Levy rear LCA's, Forte front, VPM rear bars, CF dash, mod comp layout w/Auto Meter Ultra-Lites, Lucas tri-bar headlights, coupe taillights, painted by SRP (again!)

  20. #20
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    here is what my spacer looks like
    Attached Images Attached Images

  21. #21
    Senior Member canuck1's Avatar
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    That looks like a rack extender alright! You need one on each side if you're going to use them at all. They aren't a requirement, rather an aid to correcting an identifiable bump-steer problem. If you haven't measured bump-steer, you have no way of knowing if they'll help or not. I found them to help in my application, but everyone's setup is a little different.

    Rack travel should be centered before rough alignment can be attempted. Are you still using 94 donor lower control arms? Are they mounted in the inner frame tab mounting holes?

    Sean
    MK 3.5 roadster (MK IV body retrofit to MK III chassis) 396W stroker, 4 bbl mass air EFI, QH (self-tuned), AFR 195CC Renegade, XE274HR, GP 4-1-4 SS headers, 3link, 3.73, 15" Halibrand replicas, SAI mod, bumpers, 2 X roll bars, IČ electronics, PS, hydroboosted brakes: 95 GT front, custom MK VIII calipers/Cobra discs rear, FFR front, Levy rear LCA's, Forte front, VPM rear bars, CF dash, mod comp layout w/Auto Meter Ultra-Lites, Lucas tri-bar headlights, coupe taillights, painted by SRP (again!)

  22. #22
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    i am using 1994 lower control arms. I will look to see where they are mounted. Could only fit one spacer.

    i drove the car today and find the steering extremely sensititive. too direct. Is that normal for a power rack?

  23. #23
    Senior Member rich grsc's Avatar
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    If you have a spacer on one side and not the other, you have created a dangerous situation. There is no way the steering rack is centered in its travel. What alignment figures did you use, how much caster, how much camber?

  24. #24
    Senior Member Norm B's Avatar
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    Check your manual. I believe I had to cut about an inch off on inner tie rod to get both rack extenders installed and get the alignment correct. The manual explains this pretty well if I remember correctly.. As Rich said, don’t drive the car in it’s present state. It could be an accident looking for a place to happen.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by canuck1 View Post
    That looks like a rack extender alright! You need one on each side if you're going to use them at all. They aren't a requirement, rather an aid to correcting an identifiable bump-steer problem. If you haven't measured bump-steer, you have no way of knowing if they'll help or not. I found them to help in my application, but everyone's setup is a little different.

    Rack travel should be centered before rough alignment can be attempted. Are you still using 94 donor lower control arms? Are they mounted in the inner frame tab mounting holes?

    Sean
    Tubular LCA are mounted on the outside as per instructions.

    Would removing the spacers on wach side be an option?

  26. #26
    Senior Member Avalanche325's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rich grsc View Post
    If you have a spacer on one side and not the other, you have created a dangerous situation. There is no way the steering rack is centered in its travel. What alignment figures did you use, how much caster, how much camber?
    100% agree. The last thing you want is geometry that is not the same on each side.

    With the pyramid type steering shaft connector, you center your steering wheel by adjusting the tie rods.

  27. #27
    Senior Member rich grsc's Avatar
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    First thing you need to do, is figure out what parts you are using!!! In two posts you say you have 1994 lower control arms, in another you say tubular control arms. Which is it? Same with the steering rack, first you say 94, now you're saying 95. I'll say it again, you can't have the spacers on only one side. Take them off the rack, they where only needed to help with bump steer issues. I have a 93 power rack and absolutely did not need them.

    Post pictures if you don't know what you have.

  28. #28
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    i have 1994 rack. Tublar FFR lower control arms. I have the FFR tie rod kit.

    IMG_6561.jpg

  29. #29
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    thanks fellas. i used the spacers. got the rack centered.

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