I epoxy'd studs to the underside of the hardtop to mount the top. Using the existing mounting holes to draw the hold down and keep it secure. DO NOT OVERTIGTEN. This will give you a wavy appearance while looking down the body line. Easy does it
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I epoxy'd studs to the underside of the hardtop to mount the top. Using the existing mounting holes to draw the hold down and keep it secure. DO NOT OVERTIGTEN. This will give you a wavy appearance while looking down the body line. Easy does it
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
working multiple parts at the same time.
The trunk is finished and mounted. pics show aluminum mounting frame. truck is screwed to that. bulb molding seals the truck. Aluminum foil mat should protect it from heat. The rear hatch install provided some challenges as the gas struts are overkill without the glass installed. I need to trim the hatch slightly so its the same size as the glass. The hinge does not seem to keep position no matter how hard I tighten t. ANY IDEAS. working on the interior wiring for the electric windows. IWIRE does a great job. Sending the new front end metal for powder coating.
The hard top does not sit properly , need to pull down parts , will epoxy studs to underside and draw it down. it tends to distort the body slightly. will see how to fix that issue.
I did not put bulb molding on the interior firewall, it raised the hood to a point that was too noticeable. Will seal the backside with silicon to prevent engine gas infiltration.
After reading a few replys , I will NOT use the fans for the airbox. will instead move them to the front bay and have air directed into cabin.IMG_1261.JPGIMG_1263.JPGIMG_1264.JPGIMG_1265.JPGIMG_1266.JPGIMG_1267.JPGIMG_1268.JPGIMG_1270.JPGIMG_1271.JPGIMG_1272.JPG
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
tried to put the flocked glass window molding around the hard top lip. It seems to be thicker than the molding. Anyone else have an issue with that?
Either I have to get larger molding or thin down the lip.
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
things are starting to come together. The new front end aluminum was powder coated. I used cleco's to place them until I am ready to rivet them in. I had to remove the bolts that come with the wing mounts and weld them. there is no way to move them up as the bolts are in the way. I was told by FFR it is a design flaw. I attached studs to the underside of the new top to bring down some high spots in the body line. I will show before and after pics after the epoxy cures. All the Iwire upgrades were installed, only thing left is the headlights.IMG_1285.JPGIMG_1286.JPGIMG_1288.JPGIMG_1290.JPGIMG_1291.JPGIMG_1296.JPGIMG_1298.JPGIMG_1299.JPG
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
the studs epoxy'd to the hard top worked very nicely to bring the high points in line.
I finished the airbox and will be installing it
I noticed a large gap with the new hard top and door
this needs to be addressed. Spoke with AZPETE and he is also working on a solution06-05-2017.JPGIMG_1301.JPGIMG_1302.JPGIMG_1303.JPG06-05-2017.JPGIMG_1305.JPGIMG_1306.JPGIMG_1307.JPGIMG_1308.JPG
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
"Spoke with AZPETE and he is also working on a solution"
Alan is correct that I have the same problem gap, but I don't have a solution . . . yet. OMG, the pressure! If anyone has an idea, please step up.
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
All coupes are gonna have that gap because the tops meant to be removable and the way the doors swing out from under the top not away from a surface. I think ffr should provide that aluminum piece with the kit. Maybe instead of installing it horizontally it can be bent 90° downward where it meets the dash. It would be cleaner then having the aluminum exposed covering the dash.
Flynntuna reminded me that the gap is filled with the donor mirror in a by-the-book build. Alan, if you going to use the donor mirror the problem will be solved.
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
started to install the doors, all the little details are starting to be done.
I can adjust the hardtop height about 1" but then the fiberglass in the front does not sit on the frame.
I really don't want to pull out the grinder to make space for the door.IMG_1309.JPGIMG_1310.JPGIMG_1311.JPGIMG_1312.JPGIMG_1313.JPGIMG_1314.JPGIMG_1315.JPGIMG_1316.JPGIMG_1317.JPGIMG_1318.JPG
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
started to work on the doors. Remembered how much trouble they gave me the first time. The steel frame from the new hardtop is different from the coupe. I will have to fill the holes from previous install. Putting aluminum strip behind the door will provide more holding strength for the screws. I will epoxy a strip of aluminum to the door cards where they attach to door skins.
completed the intercooler airbox. very happy with the results. I will see how this works before using the marine fans.IMG_1324.JPGIMG_1325.JPGIMG_1326.JPGIMG_1327.JPGIMG_1328.JPG
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
I see you have mounted the power window mechanism into the door - looks fine. As a heads-up, the manual says simply "cut the door" for the window glass, but I screwed up, and I know of 2 other guys who did the same, by cutting a straight slot in the top pf the door. The glass is curved, so the slot must be curved. See post #34 of the Hard Top Install Tips thread.
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
The easiest way to test the efficiency of the intercooler with a ducted setup without installing actual air intake temp(IAT) sensors I guess would be to intentionally try to heat soak it(multiple runs under moderate boost without a lot of time to cool down in between....simulating what it would see on a drag strip for instance). Then remove the ducting and use an infrared thermometer to get a temperature for the intercooler inlet and outlet. That should give you an idea how well the ducting is working and whether you need to add the fans. Another way to improve the intercooler efficiency would be to use an intercooler sprayer. A lot of these sprayers use nitrous as the cooling agent(expensive), but co2 works as well, as do various other gasses. The sprayer wouldnt be needed in most conditions anyway, only in those conditions that would normally heatsoak an intercooler which are limited to racing.
So jealous that you have a newer hardtop. Thanks for the photos they really help show the detail of how to fix mine. And your intercooler box is looking really good.
glad to help
I am having lots of issues with mounting the top. It would have been better to loosen the side sails and rear bumper and then attaché top to align everything correctly. I had to put a few studs on the underside to draw down the top so it followed the contours correctly. I see lots of places that FFR did not address with a "finished" look. There is a large gap behind mirror. I have to figure a way to seal rear glass firewall to prevent engine gases coming into cockpit.
I am going real slow with windows. I am also retrofitting the new nose. Also taking my time. Do you have pics of your build?
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
Alan, I had the same challenge sealing the window wall. Unlike the manual, I made five elongated holes at the bottom of the window wall that matched the five 1/4" bolts I had at the top of the rear firewall. Then, I put the window wall in place, pushed it up tight against the ceiling, then tightened the five bolts. Once it was as I wanted it, I drilled holes through the window wall and re-mounted the seat belts.
Next, at the top corners and along both sides there were gaps I filled by screwing on aluminum strips with bulb seal on the outside edges.
If the top doesn't want to fit in some places, try to "encourage" it with tape or weights, then let it "learn" the new position. After a while, maybe encouraging it a little further, the fiberglass will remember. Warmth helps, like all day in the summer sun, not a heat gun.
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
I kept putting it off. Mounting the doors. I was not looking forward to it. It went surprisingly well. The door frame for the hardtop is slightly different than the previous one I have. A few holes had to be repositioned on the skin. All in all it went w. I use paint sticks for the gap and tape them every 9 inches. The latch is attached and door frame with skin is put on body. The bolts to the door/hinge are centered and tightened with the aluminum end piece centered. then the hinge to frame is tightened. The skin is aligned how I want it. I use a sharpie to make the frame and holes on the back. Hinge to body is loosened and door is removed. Attach the skin to the frame where marked, tighten and counter sink bolts. Door is put back on. I had to lossen and move the skin slightly bit it really was not as stressful as first time.
I riveted the new nose aluminum and new top aluminum from Forma., I like the enclosed look.
Started to mock up the hood and new fenders and was really surprised at how well the pieces aligned. The gap is nice and the biggest problem everyone seems to have with the door , fender and windshield really looks good.
I will be cIMG_1335.JPGIMG_1336.JPGIMG_1337.JPGIMG_1338.JPGIMG_1342.JPGIMG_1343.JPGIMG_1344.JPGIMG_1345.JPGIMG_1346.JPGIMG_1347.JPGutting and trimming very carefully not to mess this up.
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
working on the door latches and locks. I found this went easier than I anticipated. I am missing a few pieces to complete the install. I am having a little difficulty getting the key to unlock , but it looks likes its just an adjustment issue. Windows nextIMG_1354.JPGIMG_1355.JPGIMG_1356.JPGIMG_1358.JPGIMG_1359.JPG
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
had a little trouble with the lights. The 2 epoxy's that I used to mount the headlight for some reason did not hold the tabs. I used a product called "goop" which seems to hold . Drilling the holes for the headlights was a little challenging as I have no help to hold the bucket. Spent way to much time trying to center the bucket just right. Result was acceptable. Spent the better part of 2 days trying to get the fenders to line up. I am sure that the fenders are not mirror images of each other. I ended up with what I think is a symmetrical look. Joining the new fenders to the front grill seemed easy until you find there is no room to drill the hole and then you have no room to place the nut in the rear. I had to sand both the fender ( a lot) and the grill to get them to line up as described in the guide. I still need to attach the fender on the top by the windshield, I will need spacers as the fender is about 3/4 of an inch higher than the tab. Pushing the fender down causes it to flex too much. I had the same issue with original fenders. Problem look to be the hood. I test fit and the part yt the grill lines up perfect , the rear by the windshield shows the unsquareness of the frame ( or lousy measuring by me). I will leave that till the end, I saw a thread where someone cut a slice in the hood to adjust it to fit. I will probably try that as I have all the bodywork to do. The parting lines are quite pronounced and I wanted to try my hand at body filler and sanding. After I screwed the grill and fenders I used gorilla tape around the inside edge. This I hope will keep the moisture out and away from headlight. I will also fabricate a Piece of aluminum to prevent road dirt from finding its way in the back of the headlight.IMG_1374.JPGIMG_1375.JPGIMG_1376.JPGIMG_1377.JPGIMG_1378.JPGIMG_1379.JPGIMG_1384.JPGIMG_1385.JPGIMG_1386.JPGIMG_1407.JPG
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
I hope you have better luck with Goop holding than I have had, but it did work for my sneakers. What is your plans for attaching the lenses and then being able to replace the lights? Also, when the hood is matched up with the fenders, what do the gaps look like?
You might have to tweak your door handle bracket once you get the window in place. It will get more complicated once you try getting the window lined up and seated correctly. Good luck with the headlights. I went a different route and decided to just bolt the headlights to the fender by installing rivnuts in the buckets. Easier install, but you have to crack the lenses if you want to remove the buckets. Not that big of a deal for me honestly.
my gaps to the hood are fine on the bottom and not good on the top. I will do some minor surgery after the rest of the vehicle is complete. I am not setting the fenders until the windshield is installed. I wish I had attached the window molding while the top was off the car. I have to sand the edge down to .25 or as close as I can. Passenger side fit fine after the sanding.
Lots of body work to do on the new front end and hardtop.
nothing at all like this on the "s" version.IMG_1412.JPGIMG_1413.JPGIMG_1414.JPGIMG_1415.JPGIMG_1416.JPG
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
after putting on the window molding I must have measured 10 times. I used the instructions from AZPETE for cutting the door skin for the window. Using his instructions I undercut just in case. after the initial cut , the edge of the skin is extremely flimsy, I clamped a wood strip to top and bottom of the skin so I could sand and file the opening to accommodate the glass. It actually came out better than I anticipated. I will have to expand the slot to fit the edge molding. IMG_1417.JPGIMG_1418.JPGIMG_1419.JPGIMG_1420.JPGIMG_1421.JPGIMG_1422.JPGIMG_1423.JPGIMG_1424.JPGIMG_1425.JPGIMG_1426.JPG
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
still working on windowsIMG_1431.JPGIMG_1433.JPGIMG_1434.JPGIMG_1436.JPGIMG_1437.JPGIMG_1438.JPGIMG_1439.JPGIMG_1440.JPG
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
Looking like you know what your doing it looks awesome.
LOL
not a chance
if not for the forum and you guys I would have never been able to get past the inventory.
I sit in my garage and measure 18 times before I cut, and even then I measure again.
what I can do is provide one valuable piece of information
GO SLOW
what's the rush to finish.
if you finish it
then you are looking for another project.
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
rear hatch proved to be a challenge. I taped the rear glass to the hatch and then was able to adjust the hinges through the opening where the side glass goes. After it was tightened down, I drilled a small hole through the 2 hinge pieces and put a small bolt in. This keeps the hinge from rotating. a few minor adjustments still need to be done but the hatch opens very easily and seals when closed. I put the seats back in and put the dash in ( still waiting for front windshield to be installed so dash is not attached permanently)
I put battery cable on to check all the electrical. SUCCESS, I love the IWIRE harness.
NEW LIGHTS are super bright and really nice. Electric windows work. I am in business now.
I still have to put door windows in and adjust.
But car is once again drivable.IMG_1456.JPGIMG_1457.JPGIMG_1464.JPGIMG_1465.JPGIMG_1466.JPGIMG_1470.JPGIMG_1472.JPG
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
Getting the electric windows to align properly has been a time consuming challenge.
all day Saturday and Sunday, does not look good, take it apart
back to square one
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
I had the glass installed yesterday
The installer was impressed at the accuracy of the glass and fiberglass frame. There was no way to have a rubber trim put on as the fit was so close.
The hatch glass was a snap.
I will have the side windows installed at a later date, I need theIMG_1496.JPG opening to adjust the hatch and gas strut movement
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
looking good
818SC chassis #206 EJ207 2.0L VF37 twin scroll || Cusco type RS 1.5 LSD || Wilwood pedal box (firewall attach) || Wilwood superlite front calipers
BUILD Phase 1: 6/6/2014 car delivered || 5/24/2015 first start || 6/7/2015 go karted || 4/20/2016 hard-top-topped || 10/25/2016 registered || 11/18/2016 inspected & complete
BUILD Phase 2: 3/8/2017 EJ207v8 || 5/29/2017 re-first re-start || 7/17/2017 re-assembled with race car bits
Now that the windows are in, the car feels snug, doesn't it? The glass made mine feel like a real car. Wait, it is real isn't it?
When I had my windshield installed, the Safelite guys told me most modern cars don't have a rubber gasket and after looking at a bunch of cars, they are correct. There's a narrow gap around the outside edge that seems to cause no problems on production cars, so I'm good with it.
I was able to adjust my hatch after you sent photos, Alan. Thanks. I was able to adjust the hinges and struts with my side quarter windows installed.
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
LOL
I am 5'7" 160#
I got stuck trying to get out.
I wonder how you taller guys do it
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
Alan, it takes practice to fold up like a pocket knife to get in, and out. I'm 6'3" 220 lbs.
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
I had my glass installed and when i went to the body shop for paint he took all the glass baxk out so i had to install it 2 times
I was adjusting the hatch with the glass and one of the strut attachments dislodged from the mount. ( flimsy set up anyway) When one went , the second quickly followed. Then I had a problem at both doors. I was adjusting the window and leaned on the door body panel, I heard the fiberglass on the aluminum angle pop off. Then there is the issue with the glass hitting the metal linkage to open the door. I stopped work and immediately did what was recommended by AZPETE. I opened a cold one.
I spent yesterday working on the problems. Used rivnuts to install the strut brackets. I think they will hold better than just the screws in the fiberglass. I moved the mount lower so the hatch does not open as high. I till need to adjust the hatch , the picture shows the height I have. I think its to high.
I rilled and counter sunk bolts to hold up the angle piece to support door skin. I drilled in 4 places and will make it disappear with bondo. Now it will not give way. I will do the same for the other side. I ground the linkage trying to prevent the window from hitting it. . Had to bend it slightly , I also wrapped it in felt. it does not scrape, I will watch this. I am going to make the slot for the window larger. I am not happy with the way the rubber lays.
I had a friend stop by who is a body man for 40 years, he showed me best way to remove the parting lines and encouraged me to try to do the body work myself. Guess I am learning a new skill. What a dirty , dusty job this is going to be.IMG_1502.JPGIMG_1503.JPGIMG_1504.JPGIMG_1506.JPGIMG_1507.JPGIMG_1508.JPGIMG_1509.JPGIMG_1511.JPGIMG_1512.JPGIMG_1513.JPG
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
Hi do you have a picture of the door latch instal on your door thanks
IMG_1355.JPGIMG_1356.JPGIMG_1359.JPG
I will take some of both sides as they are now
here are some I had
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016
Do you have one from outside
818S #343 Delivered 5-20-2015
First Start 10-17-2015
First Drive 10-17-2017 ( 100 feet back and forth until I can get off driveway)
First Drive with a non leaking tuned motor 11-12-2015 (wow)
Passed NJ State constructed inspection 8/30/2016