Engine won't start

[hartwellguy]

Was hoping to take my first test drive yesterday, but couldn't get the engine to start. I am using a dieted wire harness from my donor, an '06 WRX. The immobilizer and antenna are in place, and whenever the battery is connected, the security light at the bottom of the cluster blinks on every second or so. Is this normal? (I assumed it was). The engine turns over but won't start. I'm getting 12v to the coils through the red wire and have continuity back to the ECU through the other two wires. Am getting fuel to the engine and also tried starting fluid, with zero response, so I'm pretty sure the problem is electrical. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Doug Moore
Hartwell GA

[Ajzride]

The security light should flash while battery connected and key off. While trying to start it or in acc/run should stop flashing. <-- working form memory, so someone correct me if I'm wrong.

[STiPWRD]

I concur with Ajzride and that the problem is likely with the ECU, it seems to be preventing the plugs from firing. There's still some sort of security protocol that isn't satisfied. Sorry I can't help much here, I have an earlier ECU without all the immobilizer business.

[Sgt.Gator]

This might help:
https://www.iwireservices.com/post/i...20immediately.
"For all immobilized swaps it's important to have the ignition cylinder because the ring around the key (that also lights up when a door opens) is the antenna to pick up the RFID chip from the key. The placement is very precise so even if you hide the key under the dash you'll want to use the ignition cylinder to hold the key in place or it's liable to move and cause the car not to start. Our recommendation is to utilize the chipped key with ignition cylinder on whichever steering column is installed in the car."

and
https://www.iwireservices.com/post/i...-a-subaru-swap

"Option 2 (not recommended): Mounting ignition cylinder under the dash

This option is easier to complete but can lead to problems in the long run. Basically the immobilized key is taped into the antenna (light up ring around the cylinder) and shoved underneath the dash and left alone. The problem with this solution is if the key shifts in the antenna, the immobilized key will no longer work. The key is very picky about where it sits within the antenna so if it moves, the antenna will not pick up the RFID in the key properly and the car will not start. If this route is chosen, at least put the key in the ignition cylinder so that the key will stay in place and potentially could be removed if need be."

[hartwellguy]

The security light should flash while battery connected and key off. While trying to start it or in acc/run should stop flashing. <-- working form memory, so someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Thanks for your comment. You are correct, according to the owner's manual that came with my donor.

[hartwellguy]

I concur with Ajzride and that the problem is likely with the ECU, it seems to be preventing the plugs from firing. There's still some sort of security protocol that isn't satisfied. Sorry I can't help much here, I have an earlier ECU without all the immobilizer business.

Sorry for the delayed response. I finally got my mechanic to come take a look at the car last night, and he pretty much came to the same conclusion. But he was not able to offer a solution. His scanner was not able to communicate with my immobilizer, but he wasn't sure if it was supposed to or not.

[hartwellguy]

Thanks Sgt. Gator for the great info. From what I'm reading, I should be good, since all of the pieces - key and cylinder, immobilizer, and ECU are all from the same car and are all still intact. I did remove the keyless entry module, but from what I've read, that shouldn't cause a problem. Sorry for the delayed response - I finally got my mechanic to come look at the car last night. He suspects that some security protocol is keeping the ECU from firing the plugs, but wasn't able to offer a solution. I will try to contact the guys at iWire and see if they can offer a solution.

[fletch]

You are right that you can delete the keyless entry module without issue. I have the same motor as you and all works well without it. Our first start was delayed due to a rookie mistake on my part... ensure all your engine harness connectors are fully seated with their mating connectors in the body harness. Double check them if you haven't. They seemed seated, but weren't.

[hartwellguy]

Will definitely try that. Seems like it would be something simple, but I have reached the limits of my knowledge and ability! Thanks!!!

[Ajzride]

Where are you, someone might be close enough to come help.

[hartwellguy]

Where are you, someone might be close enough to come help.

I'm in north Georgia, on Lake Hartwell, near the SC border, just outside of Hartwell GA. Would be great to find another 818 guru nearby!

[STiPWRD]

A few other things I'd check:
- Make sure the ECU is receiving 12V power at the ECU connector. There are a few fuses (2 or 3?) that supply power if I recall.
- Make sure the fuses aren't blown
- Was your mechanic able to communicate with the ECU through the OBD2 port? Any check engine codes? You should be able to read all the sensors with the ignition on. If one of the key sensors has gone bad, it will prevent the ECU from firing the plugs. This typically triggers an ECU code.

[hartwellguy]

We were able to communicate with the ECU. The only codes were those related to the secondary air system, which has been disabled. We were able to read all of the sensors that his scanner identified, with the exception of the immobilizer, but we're not 100% sure that we should be able to talk to it. Also, his scanner didn't offer the option to see the cam position sensors (curious), so couldn't check those. He has offered me the use of an older scanner that might have more functionality, so will check that. We checked most but possibly not all of the power inputs to the ECU. That's one thing I can check.

[STiPWRD]

It sounds like you're on the right track. I'd definitely check if the ECU can read the cam position sensor because I'm not certain, but pretty sure, it won't send spark if it can't see the crank or cam position pulses.

[fletch]

It sounds like you're on the right track. I'd definitely check if the ECU can read the cam position sensor because I'm not certain, but pretty sure, it won't send spark if it can't see the crank or cam position pulses.

Pretty sure this is true, otherwise all sorts of bad things could happen. Also, the crank & cam position sensor connectors are some of the hardest to get to on the engine. Might want to check those connections.

I don't recall that the immobilizer is addressable via OBD2. I'm working from memory here, but I don't think we wired it into the OBD2 connector. Aside from leaving it out of the build at first, it hasn't caused us any trouble at all. Power, GND, and two wires to the ECU, plus the connection to the antenna - and everything's been happy since.

[Ajzride]

You can tell if the immobilizer is the problem by looking at the light. If the security light is flashing after you try to start it, you have an immobilizer issue. If you don't have your immobilizer light hooked up, hook it up now. I don't have a gauge cluster and wound up adding an LED so I would know the status of the immobilizer because mine was very fickle due to a bad ground.

[FFRWRX]

And go through every inch of the harness looking for grounds you missed. I had that happen when I was sure I had all the grounds connected; engine cranked but would not fire.

Rick