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Thread: Hidden Power Window Switch

  1. #1
    Member
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    Feb 2013
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    Hidden Power Window Switch

    I have power windows and door locks. I would like to install a hidden switch in the trunk that controls the driver side window that would allow me manual entry if the need should arise. My first thought was just to tap this hidden switch directly into the up/down wires going to the driver window motor. For this switch to work it would have to be connected to a constant 12V feed whereas the current switches are connected through the ignition switch/ fuse box and, of course, only have power in the ON position. Do you think I can connect the hidden switch directly to the up/down wires as planned or do I have to have something like relays, etc. to prevent interference and/or damage to the existing window switches, ignition switch, or fuse box? Since the switch I'm going to use is lighted I'm going to put a Off/On toggle switch in the 12V constant feed so the light in the switch won't run the battery down. This way I will only power the hidden switch as needed.

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  2. #2
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    May 2017
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    If it’s just a redundant lockout mechanism, why not go for something mechanical? Can the door poopers be manually actuated? If so, just a cable should do the trick. No batteries, and should be dead simple to implement.

  3. #3
    Senior Member
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    Nov 2017
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    I also have power door locks and windows. I had similar concerns as you.
    The alarm system I used has Aux outputs that I used to power relays for the door popper solenoids. I ran wires from the relay contacts to a hidden location so I could pop the door open if needed, even if the battery is dead.
    There is more to it that I don’t want to post here as this is a public forum that (I’m guessing) anybody can read.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

  4. #4
    Senior Member johnnybgoode's Avatar
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    Mar 2011
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    Ottawa Ontario
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    My shaved door handle kit came with a pretty robust all-weather remote push button that I hid under the car plus I added a remote pig-tail for charging the battery that exits the trunk into the bottom of the rear fender well.

    https://www.amazon.ca/MIDIYA-Button-...25218567&psc=1

    The only potential issue I could have would be the battery going dead at a show but I've been able to power the car from the positive starter terminal in a pinch (but I would not really recommend this). Scott
    FFR #3870 MK II, Spectra Blue/Arctic White, 1974 414W, 10:1, Eagle 4340 crank and rods, KB Pistons, Ported Performer RPM 2.02 heads & intake, QFT SS-650, Comp XR282HR, Quality Roadsters pan, Crane ignition, TKO600, 3.55 gears, 3 link, SA QA1's, Breeze LCA's, Heim joints & VPM F/R bars, Power steering with Hiedts valve, Power brakes, Fortes bump steer kit, 5 bolt axels, SSBC rear brakes, Oil cooler, Pusher fans, Halibrand Cobra III's with Nitto NT555 G2 245/285/17

  5. #5
    Senior Member
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    I didn’t use the supplied trunk release cable that pops the trunk from the cabin.
    With a locking handle I can always get to my battery.
    '33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
    LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
    TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
    Garage Built, Driveway Painted.

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