Edlebrock Pro Flow 4 EFI fuel pump wiring question

[Buzzsaw]

Confused about how to wire fuel pump. Edelbrock has 2 wires for fuel pump. One orange (Power) and one tan/white Stripe (ground). I have an in tank Holley Sniper fuel tank that has non terminated red (power) and black (ground) wires. The Ron Frances manual shower to cut and splice into the Fuel Pump Relay Control Wire. If I splice and solder the orange Edelbrock wire into the Fuel Pump Relay Control wire. What to I do with the tan / white stripe (ground) from the Edlebrock harness and the how is the connection to the fuel pump made.
IMG]https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=196316&d=1709237180[/IMG]
Anyone using Edlebrock Pro Flow Four have a solution?

Thanks
Ross

[AndrewIdaho]

I am looking at the proflow4 for my build. I think this Edlebrock document answers your question on page 4 https://edelbrock-instructions-v1.s3...rock/35930.pdf
Andrew

[Buzzsaw]

I am looking at the proflow4 for my build. I think this Edlebrock document answers your question on page 4 https://edelbrock-instructions-v1.s3...rock/35930.pdf
Andrew

Thanks Andrew, I have those instructions. My confusion is how does that diagram connect black to the main Ron Frances harness and ignition. You have to excuse me I am not very experienced with wiring.

[AndrewIdaho]

Ah sorry I misunderstood. I agree the RF document is a bit vague on the Fuel pump relay connections. Hopefully someone has some insight and I will follow this thread with interest.

Best Regards, Andrew

[Fman]

I am running the PF4, has been installed for 3 years now and have about 6000 miles with it. You definitely should also be running a relay switch, see page 4 of the Edelbrock manual for reference. I am trying to recall how I tied into the RF wiring harness it should be pretty straight forward. I don't want to feed you improper info so let me do some research on this and get back to you. One thing I was told and would recommend is when installing make sure and follow the directions exactly how Edelbrock explains it to you. I am also running a CDI box which was recommended.

[Jrmotorsports55]

I have an old school MK 2 with a donor harness. I have a stand alone relay and the Pro Flow wiring controls the relay, which in turn controls the fuel pump.

[Buzzsaw]

I am running the PF4, has been installed for 3 years now and have about 6000 miles with it. You definitely should also be running a relay switch, see page 4 of the Edelbrock manual for reference. I am trying to recall how I tied into the RF wiring harness it should be pretty straight forward. I don't want to feed you improper info so let me do some research on this and get back to you. One thing I was told and would recommend is when installing make sure and follow the directions exactly how Edelbrock explains it to you. I am also running a CDI box which was recommended.

Thanks Fman, so if I am reading your post correctly, you followed the Edelbrock instruction and not the Ron Frances manual. The only way I see the Edelbrock tying into the Russ Frances harness is at the ignition based on the Edelbrock instructions. Like I stated earlier I am a novice at wiring so ant help is greatly appreciated!
Ross

[Buzzsaw]

I have an old school MK 2 with a donor harness. I have a stand alone relay and the Pro Flow wiring controls the relay, which in turn controls the fuel pump.

Thanks Jrmotorspoerts, looks like the correct path is to follow Edelbrock instructions. I appreciate your help!
Ross

[AndrewIdaho]

Hello Buzzsaw,

You are about 9mo ahead of me as I plan to order my Roadster in the late summer when I retire. I have analyzed the RF document and I think you can use the RF harness. I have a pdf of a sketch of my analysis. Since I am a newbie, I am not sure I have the ability to post the document. If you PM me with your email, I can send it for you to share with the forum and have my analysis reviewed.

Best Regards, Andrew

[Fman]

Thanks Fman, so if I am reading your post correctly, you followed the Edelbrock instruction and not the Ron Frances manual. The only way I see the Edelbrock tying into the Russ Frances harness is at the ignition based on the Edelbrock instructions. Like I stated earlier I am a novice at wiring so ant help is greatly appreciated!
Ross

After reading my notes and looking at the Edelbrock manual you will just wire the fuel pump directly from the relay switch, this will have nothing to do with the RF wiring harness (See page 17 of the Edelbrock manual wiring fuel pump w/relay). Make sure and also use the Bosch heavy duty relay switch that is recommended by Edelbrock. Your keyed 12v ignition source is what will come from the RF wiring harness (reference page 16 #24/#25 in the wiring harness). I also put my 15 amp inline fuse accessible under the hood, it is nice to be able to remove it to prime your engine when doing oil changes. Also make sure all your grounds are solid. Remember ALL power and ground leads come directly from the battery, do not wire from anywhere else.

Hope this helps you out... let me know if you have any other questions.

[cc2Arider]

I was going to do this soon as well. My approach was to have the Pro-Flo decide when to turn the fuel pump On/Off (via signal to the relay), but provide the high current power to the relay thru the RF harness. I think this is essentially what Fman did

I also like the fuse idea!

Craig C

Off topic: I'd like for the RF harness to process an independent Coolant Tmptr sensor to be used just for the dash panel guage. Does anyone (maybe FMan) have a recommendation on the correct Coolant Tmptr sensor for this purpose?

[Fman]

I was going to do this soon as well. My approach was to have the Pro-Flo decide when to turn the fuel pump On/Off (via signal to the relay), but provide the high current power to the relay thru the RF harness. I think this is essentially what Fman did

I also like the fuse idea!

Craig C

Off topic: I'd like for the RF harness to process an independent Coolant Tmptr sensor to be used just for the dash panel guage. Does anyone (maybe FMan) have a recommendation on the correct Coolant Tmptr sensor for this purpose?

I just used the Speedhut sensor off the manifold for my water temp gauge. One other nice feature about the PF4 is it allows for two separate fan settings. I ended up using terminal #2 for a temp warning light on the dash, it can be set to come on at any desired temp.

[cc2Arider]

Thanks Travis! I never actually unpacked my Dash Panel Gauge box. I had just admired the gauge faces before and never actually pulled them out of the box to see much more content inside the box!

This saves a lot of work that I thought I'd have to do on my own

Craig C

[Alec]

I have your same exact setup (pump, EFI, RF harnass and relays). THis is from memory and it's been ~ 1 year since I wired my car, but my recollection is that the brown/tan wire is a switched ground from the EFI, and I tied that into the fuel pump relay (ground) in the RF fuse box. Hot from the EFI can be terminated, its just a keyed 12v like many others, doesn't modulate. Wire the pump to the RF harnass and include the inertia switch somewhere as well (I have it on the chassis ground side of the pump, mounted inside the trunk on the wall).

[AndrewIdaho]

I believe Alec suggestion is consistent with my analysis. ProposePro4FlowWiring.jpg

I attached a jpeg - hopefully it takes

Andrew

[Buzzsaw]

After reading my notes and looking at the Edelbrock manual you will just wire the fuel pump directly from the relay switch, this will have nothing to do with the RF wiring harness (See page 17 of the Edelbrock manual wiring fuel pump w/relay). Make sure and also use the Bosch heavy duty relay switch that is recommended by Edelbrock. Your keyed 12v ignition source is what will come from the RF wiring harness (reference page 16 #24/#25 in the wiring harness). I also put my 15 amp inline fuse accessible under the hood, it is nice to be able to remove it to prime your engine when doing oil changes. Also make sure all your grounds are solid. Remember ALL power and ground leads come directly from the battery, do not wire from anywhere else.

Hope this helps you out... let me know if you have any other questions.

Thanks so much Fman,
Ross

[Buzzsaw]

After reading my notes and looking at the Edelbrock manual you will just wire the fuel pump directly from the relay switch, this will have nothing to do with the RF wiring harness (See page 17 of the Edelbrock manual wiring fuel pump w/relay). Make sure and also use the Bosch heavy duty relay switch that is recommended by Edelbrock. Your keyed 12v ignition source is what will come from the RF wiring harness (reference page 16 #24/#25 in the wiring harness). I also put my 15 amp inline fuse accessible under the hood, it is nice to be able to remove it to prime your engine when doing oil changes. Also make sure all your grounds are solid. Remember ALL power and ground leads come directly from the battery, do not wire from anywhere else.

Hope this helps you out... let me know if you have any other questions.

Thanks so much Fman, do you have the inertia switch in your wiring?
Ross

[Buzzsaw]

I have your same exact setup (pump, EFI, RF harnass and relays). THis is from memory and it's been ~ 1 year since I wired my car, but my recollection is that the brown/tan wire is a switched ground from the EFI, and I tied that into the fuel pump relay (ground) in the RF fuse box. Hot from the EFI can be terminated, its just a keyed 12v like many others, doesn't modulate. Wire the pump to the RF harnass and include the inertia switch somewhere as well (I have it on the chassis ground side of the pump, mounted inside the trunk on the wall).

Thanks Alec, so I am back to two ways to skin this cat!

[Buzzsaw]

I believe Alec suggestion is consistent with my analysis. ProposePro4FlowWiring.jpg

I attached a jpeg - hopefully it takes

Andrew

Andrew, I may be a head you you on building my roadster but you are miles ahead in understanding wiring!
Ross

Yeah as a relative “newbie” I struggle loading pictures to this site. Somrtimes they work sometimes they don’t.
Ross

[AndrewIdaho]

Ross,

Thanks for the kind response. Do you have a build thread as I would like to follow along? I am curious how the Tremec midshift option is going to work as I am considering it as well when I order my engine package.

Best Regards, Andrew

[robmccon]

Ross,

Thanks for the kind response. Do you have a build thread as I would like to follow along? I am curious how the Tremec midshift option is going to work as I am considering it as well when I order my engine package.

Best Regards, Andrew

Andrew, I did the TKX midshift in mine, feel free to reach out. -Rob

[Buzzsaw]

Ross,

Thanks for the kind response. Do you have a build thread as I would like to follow along? I am curious how the Tremec midshift option is going to work as I am considering it as well when I order my engine package.

Best Regards, Andrew

Hi Andrew,
No I don’t have a build thread, but you can always PM me I will respond. The mid shift option cost about $450 and I believe you have to cut out one of the tranny tunnel braces to be able to shift. I was surprised by the extra cost for the mid shift but I think it will be worth it although not a traditional set up.

[AndrewIdaho]

Hello Ross and Rob,

Thanks for the offers of help. I have sent each of you a PM.

Best Regards, Andrew

[Buzzsaw]

Andrew, I did the TKX midshift in mine, feel free to reach out. -Rob

Rob, did you have to cut a tranny tunnel brace to be able to shift?

[robmccon]

Rob, did you have to cut a tranny tunnel brace to be able to shift?

Ross, I did, here's a picture:
midshift.JPG