In the picture below, will this location for mounting the battery conflict with anything involved with fully assembling the car in the future?
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In the picture below, will this location for mounting the battery conflict with anything involved with fully assembling the car in the future?
Sal Mennella
Unfinished GTM #30 FFR - in progress!
Roadster 5132 - sold
It won't let me enlarge the photo, but it looks like you are behind the rear tire on the passenger side? There is plenty of room there, but you need to have access to that area. I think that the standard exhaust will block access to that area. You could make an excess panel through the back part of the rear wheel well, you would just have to remove your wheel to change your battery which is not a big deal.
There is a ton of room back there, I created trunk space on both sides of the exhaust, but this required going to a central exit exhaust, the standard exhaust again blocks access to that space.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...l=1#post396014
MK3.1 2004 Mach 1 donor. ABS, PS, TC.
GTM #304 LPE 525hp LS3
2000 C5 Lingenfelter LS1@489hp
1999 Corvette FRC/Z06 track car
If that's behind the rear tire there is space.
Slight geek: For a street car, thats an OK place. I would go for the passenger side for better weight distribution.
More geeky: I would recommend in front of the rear tire for weight distribution and a lower poler moment of inertia.
But again, for a streetcar, probably will not matter.
That's going to be a very difficult spot to access when the car is done.
BTW which Braille battery did you get? I started with I believe the AGM that fits that mountain cage and found out it's really not a great battery for this application. Mine died in less than 2 years, I didn't maintain and charge it frequently, and when I filed for a warranty claim, which they honored, the Braille Tech guys told me its not a good battery for this application.
I had already built my GTM around mounting this very low on the frame and up front and built everything around it, so without major changes, I was married to this size battery. I ended up going with the mac daddy, ML30C and holy **** I was impressed. But be ready to pony up $2,000 for that battery I figured if it's good enough for several major endurance racing teams, it would be right at home in my GTM. At 9 lbs and wrapped in carbon fiber it is an impressive little package.
Yes, this is behind the passenger rear tire. I have Kooks exhaust if that matters. It's the 21 series AGM, 3121 I think? And definitely a street car, so not too worried about precision weight distribution.
Sal Mennella
Unfinished GTM #30 FFR - in progress!
Roadster 5132 - sold
I'd recommend another battery. That's the one I started with thinking it would be a great option, but its really not. I believe Shane has had some negative experience with any of the cars that he works on that have these. Just trying to give you some constructive feedback to prevent issues down the road.
Shane, is that true?
Look at post 702
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...e-go!!!/page18
If you do, don't forget my build thread I did on building a Professional Motorsports grade harness. I designed and built a high end harness for my engine and a chassis harness from scratch.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...arness-Venture
Sorry to be late to the game here.....lightning hit near my shop last Friday and took out my shop computer power supply. Just got it back today. Yeah the track record for pretty much all of the non-typical batteries is not good for the cars that have come thru my shop. I think I actually had the very first one come in AND leave in functioning condition on the last car I finished.....which I believe was an Odyssey and was never hooked up until a couple months before the car was finished. Other than that, I think I've had to replace every single one of them.....with the vast majority already being junk when they arrived. In my experience, if you discharge any of these "gel-cell" batteries beyond 50% more than twice, you might as well trash it, because it will never take a charge again.
Shane Vacek
VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
www.vraptorspeedworks.com
Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts
I would probably build a secondary heat shield between the mount and the exhaust. Should be fine mounted there, but yes, you will have to remove the wheel and alum splash panel to access it. I assume you'll probably wire up a way to charge it without having to physically get to the battery?
Shane Vacek
VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
www.vraptorspeedworks.com
Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts
As a side note on the subject of batteries.....this is the battery I pulled from the wrecked donor C5 for the very first GTM we built....going on 18 years ago. Have no idea how old it was when I pulled it out of the donor, but it was old enough then that I didn't have high hopes that it would last me very long. I've been using it primarily as my "window battery" to run the windows/window regulators up and down while I'm installing the regulators and windows in these cars. I hardly ever remember to charge it, so it always gets ran almost dead before I charge it up....and been doing this for 18 years now.....building 40 cars. That's 80 windows, powering them up and down and up and down dozens and dozens of times per window while I make adjustments to the regulator to get it aligned properly. It's on its last legs and will barely do the job now. Keep in mind that I've thrown away dozens of very, very expensive car batteries in the past 18 years that were just a few years old......but still worse than this 18 year old unit. I just exchanged a garbage Optima red top today for a new Wal-Mart MAXX battery......
20240503_132910.jpg
Shane Vacek
VRaptor SpeedWorks, LLC
www.vraptorspeedworks.com
Turn-key GTM, SL-C & Ultima GTR Built to Your Specs!
Offering a full line of GTM Upgrades and Custom Parts