Rebostar MK4 Build in Gaston Oregon

[Rebostar]

I bled the brakes today. Made much easier with the "power" bleeder. Basicly a pump up weed sprayer with fittings and seals for DOT 3. Made it a one man job. Took about an hour. I also fabed up a starter solinoid mount bracket. It wont get installed untill its painted. That wont happen till I paint the last of the trunk sheetmetal.

One house keeping note:
I started to build up my engine but came to a screaming halt when Scat took 10 weeks to deliver my stroker kit, then another 3 to get me the damper I ordered. I am now at a good stopping point. The wiring is the next step in the manual but I'll be designing my own system based on a 12 vt Cessna or Piper electrical system. So I'll be taking the next several days to a week to build the engine. I'll try to post a few times as it goes together.

[Rebostar]

Sure glad I bought that cam bearing removal and installation tool from Summit. Clevite Cam Bearings installed! Next up was the cam and crankshaft. Last year I got the Trick Flow Degree Wheel. Comp Cam does a great job, the cam was spot on to the card. I had to file all the #1 & #2 rings to .015 a job made much easier with the ring dressing wheel that Summit sells. Next was installing the #1 piston and rod. I put a dab of "playdough" on each valve relief on the #1 Piston. I have a set of Head Gaskets I use for stet up, with one installed I installed the right Edlebrock Head. After installing two lifters and old 351 pushrods and rotated the crank/cam a few turns. Used my adjustable pushrod tool to center the rocker tips and got new Chrome Moly pushrods ordered. The playdough showed I had .175 clearance between the piston and valves. Next up will be installing the remaining 7 piston/rod assemblies, heads and oil pump and pick up.

DSC03003.JPGDSC03004.JPGDSC03005.JPGDSC03007.JPGDSC03008.JPG

[Rebostar]

Well, I managed to get all 8 piston/rod assemblies installed without breaking a ring. Once you break one and you have to tell the customer why he cant have his airplane for another few days because you had to order another set of rings, You learn to take your time. I installed the Melling Oil Pump and hardened ARP oil pump drive shaft. I took Jeff K's advice on installing the Moroso 20534 rear sump pan with pick up and dip stick. It has a 7.5" deep pan that wont hang below the frame. Then I permanently installed both Edlebrock E-205 Heads.

I forgot to post the cam card on the previous post, so here it is.

DSC03009.JPGDSC03010.JPGDSC03011.JPGDSC03012.JPGDSC03013.JPG

[Rebostar]

The bottom end is done. I went through all the rod and main bolts, oil pump & pick up and double checked all the torques. Before I mounted the pan I needed to mount the timing cover. When doing that it is essencial to install it loosly with sealent on both sides of the gasket, then install the damper to get the front seal centered before torquing anything. Before all that I fitted all the bolts for size and made a trip to Ace to get all the Stainless Steel bolts I'd need.Then I installed the water pump and only then did I torque the bolts. Theoreticly (sic) the water pump should not leak water and the front seal will not leak oil!! Oh yea, I installed a scookum timing pointer while installing the timing cover.

Then I installed the Moroso Pan. I gotta say its butt ugly but it will get the job done. Very few options for the 351W based engine pans with less than an 8" sump depth and cleared for a 4.1"stroker crank. Seems to be well made though. The other plusses are it comes equiped with a bung for an oil temp probe and has two magnetic drain plugs.

Next up was the Weiand dual plane intake. I've used this intake in my last three engine build and I like the throtle responce and they are very well made. The pushrods will be here in the AM, when they go in it will be time for the Comp Cam Roller Rockers 6:1, then set all the valve lashes. Pretty simple with hydraulic flat tappets. Then I can seal it up and prep for the run stand.

DSC03016.JPGDSC03017.JPGDSC03018.JPGDSC03019.JPGDSC03020.JPG

[Rebostar]

I'm ready to put the engine on my test stand. First I needed to remove my 331 Stroker from my test stand. Before I did I wanted to run it one more time as It might be a few months before it gets back on the run stand. I also wanted to see if I could make a video and post it here so this is a test run.

Sorry about turning my cell camera 90' during the filming. I wont do that again!


https://youtu.be/BL8hPD-60X4

[Rebostar]

The pushrods showed up this morning. Took about an hour to get everything installed and set up. I'll have to re-set the valves after I break in the cam. As you can see I spent the big bucks on a set of Ansen Pent Roof SBF Valve Covers.

DSC03022.JPGDSC03023.JPGDSC03024.JPG

[Rebostar]

I got the 331 Stroker off my run stand and got the 427 ready for installation. I had to use the set up I had for the 331 as the TKX bellhousing wont fit on my runstand (yet). this required me to use the larger flywheel and matching starter I have set up for the 331. This wont matter as this will only be a test run/leak check and breaking in the cam. Once that's done I'll remove it and install the flywheel, clutch kit, bellhousing, and starter on it and install it in the car. The carb that is on it now is a 4160 Holley 600 CFM for the 331. I forgot to order a dual inlet supply line for the 4150 Brawler 750 CFM carb. It wont be here for a week (Summit in Texas) so I'll do the break in with the smaller carb.

I like my ignition wire harness nice and tidy with a minimum extra wire. Just enough slack to time the distributor. I order all the individual Taylor pieces from Summit and make my own harnesses. The vertical wire loom is from R&M. I had to buy an extra loom just to get the matching 4 wire piece thats closest to the distributor, but the final look is worth it.

DSC03025.JPGDSC03026.JPGDSC03028.JPGDSC03029.JPG

[Rebostar]

Well I started the engine only to find a major oil leak from the new Canton Pan. Seems Canton deleted the second hole back from the front that screw into the timing cover, hence the leak). So had to remove it from the run stand, put it back on the work stand and remove the pan and clean everything with MEK the re-seal it. While I was at it I installed the bellhousing that will go on the car. Just had to slightly modify the rear attach point of the run stand. Then all back togeather.

I did a half hour run in for the cam mostly at 1500 rpm, but varied slightly from 800 to 2500. At 180' the oil pressure was 55. Second run in video below. I had to cut it short as I ran out of gas! Reminder to self, gas counts as a fluid to check before starting!

[Rebostar]

As some may recall in several of the above posts I mentioned that I might be using an origonal FE expansion tank. I bought a couple localy on C-list for $40 each. I modified the best one to fit the Windsor. I'll clean it up and put new hoses on it, install it on the run stand, then run the engine to get up to temp and see if the tank leaks before I spend the $$ to ceramic coat or chrome it.

DSC03032.JPGDSC03033.JPGDSC03031.JPGDSC03030.JPG

[Rebostar]

Back a few weeks ago there was a thread asking what folks would do differently if they had it to do over again. One of those was to install all the rear wiring BEFORE installing the rear sheetmetal. Seems like great advice which I've taken. First up was installing the new Optima battery and wiring it up with the jumper posts and running the main power to the front starter solinoid. I crossed over to the right side and ran it down the 4" tube, then up to the solinoid. I put the last bit of fire sleeve I had on the terminal end as it will run close to the right header. I previously welded in a chassis ground stud just below the back side of the jumper lugs aft of the battery. I did not use the FFR supplied battery cables. I've learned the hard way not to use 4 ga. for battery wires. I use either #1 or #2 ga. So now main power is in.

DSC03034.JPGDSC03035.JPGDSC03040.JPGDSC03039.JPG

[Rebostar]

One of the first things I do when I aquire any car or truck whether its a daily driver or a classic to be built is to get rid of that black plastic wire loom. I hate that stuff. Having run literaly miles of wire in aircraft I only use quality wire loom, either Painless or aircraft quality loom. I plan to use the rear and front FFR harnesses only. I'll make the main harness and all aux harnesses. So I stripped all that plastic RF loom off the rear harness and replaced it with high quality grey loom from Summit. I got everything clamped in place using insulated clamps with only a few tywraps. I dont have an in-tank fuel pump, but I do have a Holley "primer pump" I'll run with the existing aft harness wires. I ran the aft harness down the right side of the tunnel.
I have two blowers, two trunk lights, a cubby light, and a USB port to wire in. I'll make one harness to run down the left side of the tunnel that will run all those from switches in the cockpit.(tomorrow I hope). With that done I'll be able to prime, paint and install all the rear sheetmetal.

DSC03036.JPGDSC03037.JPGDSC03038.JPGDSC03040.JPG

[Rebostar]

With all the wiring in the rear of the car run and clamped in place I could etch, prime and paint all the rear aluminum pieces. All the exterior facing sides were sprayed with "Raptor" undercoating tinted primer grey. This was done yesterday. After drying overnight I started the final install of all the sheetmetal. I got both side panels, the battery box cover and the drop trunk installed today. Hopefully tomorrow sees the upper trunk sheetmetal panel installed.

DSC03042.JPGDSC03043.JPGDSC03044.JPGDSC03045.JPGDSC03046.JPG

[F500guy]

looking great, You are really cruising along with this and looks nice. i need to make a visit maybe next week when I get some time!

[Rebostar]

As Promised, the upper trunk panel installed. I'm kinda stuck. I can install the cubby after I line it with carpet, which means I have to make a firm decision on trunk carpet color. Leaning to grey, because that is what I have left over from my 47 Merc.

DSC03047.JPGDSC03048.JPG

On another note, I canceled the back ordered FFR rollbars and ordered a set of Breeze Roll Bars. I can not finnish the trunk and vent mods untill I drill the roll bar mount holes. I've waited 3 months for the FFR bars. FFR says it will be another 6 weeks. Not for me. Mark will have a set to me inside of 2 weeks.

[Rebostar]

looking great, You are really cruising along with this and looks nice. i need to make a visit maybe next week when I get some time!

Any time Lance, just call first in case I'm shagging parts.

[Rebostar]

Before I started the wiring I needed to make the commitment to use circuit breakers and run all my own harnesses. I thought about using the FFR fuse panel mounted below the dash centered over the tunnel cover but thought better of it. So today was another origami day. I needed to make a circuit breaker box. I choose to mount it below the center of the dash with the same slope/ angle so it looks like it should be there. I bought two 5mm x 8" x 12" carbon fiber panels from Amazon. I made the paper mock up then transfered that to the carbon fiber. There will be a hinged door that will open to allow acsess to the breakers. I will copy the glove box door hinge system so the door will be flush with just a .010 gap. I angled the bottom so I can remove the tunnel cover. The outside and the door are 5mm carbon fiber. The circuit breaker mount panel will be recessed in about an inch and made from .040 2024T3 aluminum. It will have space for 12 standard thermal circuit breakers of various amp ratings as nessasary and 2 heavy duty 60 amp breakers. The breakers will feed the bank of relays. I have an aircraft master battery contactor that will feed the breaker box. Below is the mock up. More tomorrow!

DSC03050.JPGDSC03051.JPGDSC03054.JPGDSC03055.JPG

[Rebostar]

Origami done! I now have a carbon fiber circuit breaker box. I had some trouble finding an epoxy that will actualy bond the carbon fiber pieces. Sanding with 120 grit a requirement to get anything to bond! I'm pleased with the results. Will most likely mount below the center of the dash but will ask for input from the forum as to final location.

DSC03059.JPGDSC03058.JPGDSC03061.JPGDSC03062.JPGDSC03063.JPG

[Rebostar]

I'm leaning to installing the circuit breaker box under the center of the dash. The other options are mounted to the top deck of the passenger foot box, leaving room to access the windshield attach bolts, or the upper trunk floor behind the cubby. There may be good reasons for one placement over another that I dont realize. No need to reinvent the wheel so to speak. I would like the forum's opinion as to placement. #1 Dash...#2 Engine Bay...#3...Upper Trunk Deck. Please vote and give a brief reason.
Thanks
Allyn

DSC03065.JPGDSC03066.JPGDSC03067.JPGDSC03068.JPGDSC03069.JPGDSC03070.JPG

[Rebostar]

I've had the wheels and tires since early April. I decided to get them mounted and ballanced and make sure they fit and everything clears the way they should before moving ahead. Everything looks great, no clearance issues......Back to wiring.....ugggg!

DSC03071.JPGDSC03072.JPGDSC03073.JPGDSC03074.JPG

[Rebostar]

Well, back to wiring today. I had to line the cubby with sound proofing and the grey carpet I'll be using for the trunk before I could mount the cubby light and USB port. I'll have five internal lights. Two in the trunk, one in the cubby, and two under the dash. They will all have a local ground and will be wired in parallel to one dash switch for aux lights. I wired in the tail light converter and mounted the fuel level converter box for the Classic Instrument fuel gauge. I also started wiring in the master battery contactor and laid out the bank of relays. I stripped that plastic RF conduit off the front harness and replaced it with quality grey wire loom, then installed it. I'll only be using the front and rear harnesses from RF after replacing the loom. I'll rob the connectors off the main harness to interface them.

On the circuit breaker box, a couple of local Cobra builders will be stopping by on Tuesday, I'll chat with them about location before I make a commitment as to final location.

DSC03075.JPGDSC03076.JPGDSC03077.JPGDSC03078.JPGDSC03079.JPG

[Rebostar]

Took another day off from wiring to fit my FE expansion tank to the the engine. I plan to run it again tomorrow and pressure test the expansion tank. If it holds I'll send it out for either ceramic coating or chroming. It took most of the day to make the added support shown in the below pics. On the orignal FE Tanks the 90' outflow pipe coming from the thermostat housing to the tank was brass and added to the total support of the tank. I replaced that brass pipe with a rubber hose, so I needed to add some extra support. I have three expansion tanks, two of them had cracks in the radius of the soldered on support frame. The extra support should prevent that cracking. I fabed up an upper bracket and there was an unused boss on my water pump directly below the new bracket. I just had to make a link.

DSC03080.JPGDSC03081.JPGDSC03082.JPGDSC03083.JPG

One other item: I drilled a 1" hole for the steering shaft so I could plan my dash layout. I needed the steering wheel and dash mocked up to check gage placement. Looks like the we have a winner.
DSC03084.JPG