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Thread: Rear Sway Bar

  1. #1
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    Rear Sway Bar

    Working on a Gen3 65 and wondering what the thoughts are on a Rear Sway Bar?

    I have seen a lot of posts on the front sway bar, but not much on the rear. Is there any reason not to use the rear sway bar? Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.

  2. #2

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    As you know the Gen-3 Type 65 and Roadsters & FIA cars share the same suspension components.
    Many don't tend to run the rear sway bar with the IRS because it tends to cause oversteer.
    Spring rates, tires and driveline weight all are major factors when setting up your car.
    As for me, I'm running a small 3/4" front bar with no rear on my 3-Link MK-4.
    My car is very neutral and it works well for my limited abilities.
    Hope This Helps!

    The Redbone Roadster:
    https://youtu.be/iwslgKJUaKc

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    Quote Originally Posted by GoDadGo View Post
    As you know the Gen-3 Type 65 and Roadsters & FIA cars share the same suspension components.
    Many don't tend to run the rear sway bar with the IRS because it tends to cause oversteer.
    Spring rates, tires and driveline weight all are major factors when setting up your car.
    As for me, I'm running a small 3/4" front bar with no rear on my 3-Link MK-4.
    My car is very neutral and it works well for my limited abilities.
    Hope This Helps!

    The Redbone Roadster:
    https://youtu.be/iwslgKJUaKc
    Thanks for taking the time to answer. Much appreciated!!!
    I'm just looking for a fun street/road car so I'm not going to put on a rear sway bar.

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  5. #4

    Steve >> aka: GoDadGo
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seagull260 View Post
    Thanks for taking the time to answer. Much appreciated!!!
    I'm just looking for a fun street/road car so I'm not going to put on a rear sway bar.
    Seagull,

    There are some folks out there that really can help you get your car set up to do double duty.
    I'm sure they'll soon chime in and give you some expert advice.
    Most are Auto Cross enthusiasts.
    My car is just a driver.

    Steve
    Last edited by GoDadGo; 05-13-2024 at 09:25 AM.

  6. #5
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    I am in the same boat on this question. I have ordered a Daytona coupe kit and included the rear bar. It seems the general consensus is that the rear bar makes suspension tuning more difficult.
    Someone here that autocrosses and or tracks their cars must know if the rear bar can be made useful. I hope they chime in and can provide us with useful direction.
    Somewhat unrelated, but the GTM could be very tail happy. I remember seeing some video where the car spun at times. Like the others here I am leaning toward eliminating the rear bar. On my MK4, I ran it without sway bar and the only way I brought the rear around on that car was too much brake or go pedal, otherwise very controllable.
    MK4 base kit, 2004 Mach 1 donor, 4.6L DOHC, TR-3650 5-speed, narrowed stock axle with 3.55 gears and TruTrac, PS, PB, ABS, 17" Halibrand replica wheels, started 12/2011, registered 9/2014, sold 3/1/2018.
    1970 Mustang Fastback Coyote powered Boss 302 tribute. Started 10/14/16.
    Gen 3 Coupe Base Kit non-donor build. Ordered 4/5/2024 to be received August 2024.

  7. #6
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    Dave and I both drive our type 65's hard with lots of autocross and other assorted events. I do not recommend the rear sway bar unless your spring rates front to rear are a substantial difference.
    I run 750Lb front and 500LB rear and the rear sway bar would cause lots of oversteer. I think Dave runs about the same spring rates. If you ran 900 front and 400 rear a rear bar might work but I am I not sure on that as I have not tried it. I think the factory five supplied springs are 500 front and 400 rear but not certain. You can always remove the rear bar but do your testing on the autocross course as the rear can come around really fast I don't suggest you try it on the street.

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  9. #7
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    I also run 750/500 fr/rr springs with the front ARB only.

    I do have the front ARB on the stiffest hole setting - I had to use a spacer to get the two bar brackets off the frame a bit more for the bolts to reach the holes. And no rear ARB.

    Set up like this, the car is pretty neutral under even/flat throttle. It's very hard to get the car to understeer regardless.

    You can certainly get the car to oversteer if you try like this, even with no rear ARB:

    https://youtu.be/H4I3ZBuiks0?si=lWLWFsPATOW3r_aw

    and when the rear goes, it goes.

    I'd say order the rear bar, install the mounts/brackets, but don't run the bar until you get the car to understeer - that may never happen on the street.

    Dave
    Gen III #17

  10. #8
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    I'll agree with others above (though I only have about 500 miles on the car so far!)

    I installed the rear bar, on lowest setting hole, and WOW was the car twitchy (very little input = quick lane changes...lol). After 300 miles, I disconnected one of the ends (just left it hanging) and the steering response was MUCH more reasonable. MAYBE I can see it on an autocross course in a tight parking lot? but even THEN.... I doubt it.

    Interestingly, with my gen3 coyote (430-450hp at the wheels), and 315 Toyo R888s, I have a hard time breaking the rear end loose. I was definitely expecting to be rolling at 5mph - floor it, and get mad wheel spin. nope! Goes like hell all the way to 7300 RPM though.....

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