Three Bolts: Mk 4 Roadster Build

[carbon-12]

I came out of the weekend of work with a couple problems to solve.

I had to get a replacement for the castle nut which goes on the ball joint for the lower control arm on the front suspension. Factory Five sent me the wrong size. After a phone call to their tech support, and I now have a proper bolt on its way.

During the same call, I asked for some information about the remaining parts I'll need to complete the my pin drive IRS (independent rear suspension). Their best advice was to go to a junk yard and pick the parts off an old car—a 1990-97 Ford Thunderbird is a suitable donor.

However, I'm not going to do this. I have no confidence in my ability to evaluate the differential, mounting hardware, and fasteners hanging off the back of a twenty-year-old car. I need expert help.

I called Mike Forte. As many of you know, he has a lot of experience providing these parts to kit builders, and I asked him to put together a package with all the parts I'll need. He and his workers will do the sourcing and reconditioning of the old parts, and I'm sure they'll do a much better job of it than I would.

So, I'm somewhat back on track. I'll be held up on the front and rear suspension work for a couple of weeks while these parts make their way to me, but in the big picture, it won't make a difference. I'll certainly find other tasks to fill the time.

[Jeff Kleiner]

...I'll certainly find other tasks to fill the time.

You can always start fitting, marking and drilling the cockpit and trunk aluminum panels. Just like eating an elephant; it won't seem as daunting if you just take small bites, one at a time.

Jeff

[FormulaGod]

You can always start fitting, marking and drilling the cockpit and trunk aluminum panels.
Jeff

I almost wish I wasn't so quick with riveting in my "F" panels on day one of my build. In hindsight, I should have waited until more parts and components started coming together. That silicone is going to be a nightmare to remove. Everything else is gonna head off to powder coat after I mock fit everything. That was step one at the build school right after removing the body. There is plenty of great tips learned at the FF build school, and some things that made me scratch my head. For instance, I would surmise that over half of the builds are going to go with the 302 w/basic components. We installed a Roush equipped bad-boy with an intricate electronic and fuel system. I get that they are a sponsor, but it's always best to go with the majority. Not many people are installing a $15k+ engine.

[carbon-12]

I almost wish I wasn't so quick with riveting in my "F" panels on day one of my build. In hindsight, I should have waited until more parts and components started coming together. That silicone is going to be a nightmare to remove. Everything else is gonna head off to powder coat after I mock fit everything. That was step one at the build school right after removing the body. There is plenty of great tips learned at the FF build school, and some things that made me scratch my head.

Yep, back in reply #38 on this thread, MPTech said:

My advice is to fit and temporarily affix all of the panels (cleco while initially fitting, then put a couple metal screws to hold it until later).
Build the entire car to gel-coat / go-kart, then you know exactly where all of the panels go, any cutting required and any additional holes for wires, cables, hoses etc.
Don't rivet or finish anything this early in the build. If you have to remove it, it will be a PITA, you might damage / destroy it, and cutting larger holes or trimming can be damn near impossible while still on the car.
Take it from all of the Reality TV car / chopper build shows, there's a very good reason why they do a full build mock-up, then send everything out for paint & powder-coat.

I caught this advice just in time. I only marked and drilled the "F" panels last night, and this was after I had the control arms and shocks mounted up. OK, I needed to remove one bolt from each upper control arm to get my drill in everywhere, but the advice from MPTech implies that we should expect to take things apart and put them back together several times.

Once I had all my drill holes in on the "F" panels, I set a couple clecos, and then attached the panels with screws. It will be easy to take them back off when needed.

I think this is a good way to work with the panels. Leave everything provisional until the last minute, then commit to silicone and rivets.

For instance, I would surmise that over half of the builds are going to go with the 302 w/basic components. We installed a Roush equipped bad-boy with an intricate electronic and fuel system. I get that they are a sponsor, but it's always best to go with the majority. Not many people are installing a $15k+ engine.

I don't know what most people do for engines. I'm going with a 302 myself. I ordered it from The Engine Factory. I got their 302/350 HP Atomic EFI Clutch Package. It was about $13k.

[carbon-12]

You can always start fitting, marking and drilling the cockpit and trunk aluminum panels. Just like eating an elephant; it won't seem as daunting if you just take small bites, one at a time.

Jeff

Heh. “Eating an elephant.” Yes, putting together this kit is just like that.

I plan to take your advice and move on to aluminum work. Last night, I scanned ahead in the assembly manual past the front and rear end work. Next comes “Firewall & Driver Front Footbox Aluminum”. I'll get started on that work tomorrow night.

Tonight, I have the sandblaster and powder coating oven reserved at the TechShop in San Jose, CA. I'm going to work on my technique with some test pieces of aluminum.