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Thread: RM1Sepex Build Thread

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  1. #1
    Senior Member RM1SepEx's Avatar
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    Jul 2011
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    Freeport, ME
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    Did you use a brace under the nose to connect to the radiator frame? Mine does but it is only about 3/4 of an inch to the nose...

    Your nose does seem to be a bit ahead of mine and your fender has a different shape where it meets the windshield.

    Thanks for the detailed photo, helps a bunch!

    BTW AWESOME job on the paint, I love the way the metallic pops!

    Did you cut the doors vs mount the latches like the manual? Your gaps look reaaly good, I'm sure you have hrs in moving the panels around!
    Dan

    818S #17 Picked up 8/1/13 First start 11/1/13 Go Kart 3/28/14

  2. #2
    Senior Member Aloha818's Avatar
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    Jul 2013
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    Waikiki
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    Quote Originally Posted by RM1SepEx View Post
    Did you use a brace under the nose to connect to the radiator frame? Mine does but it is only about 3/4 of an inch to the nose...

    Your nose does seem to be a bit ahead of mine and your fender has a different shape where it meets the windshield.

    Thanks for the detailed photo, helps a bunch!

    BTW AWESOME job on the paint, I love the way the metallic pops!

    Did you cut the doors vs mount the latches like the manual? Your gaps look reaaly good, I'm sure you have hrs in moving the panels around!

    Happy 4th! On the nose I cut some 1/8" steel plate close to the width of the radiator support and about 3" or so wide and attached to the top side of the bottom lip of the center section of the bumper with 1/4" x 20 screws. Then I made a couple of angle brackets that go to the back and bottom side of the crossbrace. After I determined the placement for the bumper I marked and welded the angle brackets to the plate and with rivets attached the angle pieces to the crossbrace.

    On the rear top fender area a big piece of gelcoat was missing, so I "sculpted" each side similar that matched the fender without having to add fiberglass and/or a lot of filler. I did use some though.

    I mounted the door latches as per the FFR manual, minus the aluminum trim piece. I purchased some nice tapered head stainless screws and countersunk them in the fiberglass to be flush. Other than the slot going into the latch I have not made any cuts to the doors to fit and adjust. Now I will be cutting and fiberglassing some on them, but for interior cosmetic reasons (other than adding glass back where FFR trimmed the passenger front area too far).

    Wayyyy too many hours! After getting everything thing as close as I could, I used filler on ALL panel edges to decrease the radius, straighten the slanted return lips, and sand to fit the gaps.

    And thanks for liking my paint choice!
    "In wine there is wisdom, in beer there is strength, in water there is bacteria."

    818 (Chassis #34) Delivered 9/25/2013, First start 3/2/2014, First drive 4/5/2014, Registered 8/28/2015, First Dyno 3/18/2016, First SCCA event 4/3/2016, First car show HIN Honolulu 4/23/2016

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