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GTM #370
Car was completed and I have SOLD my car
http://edgemansgtm.weebly.com/index.html
Doing what you like is freedom - liking what you do is happiness
later,
Doug
When I started this project the Gen 2 was just being introduced. I really came to liking the yellow GTM, so when I sent it to the painters this was my vision for my car. It is 2014 corvette yellow and black.
IMG_3047.JPGIMG_3048.JPGIMG_3049.JPG
GTM #370
Car was completed and I have SOLD my car
http://edgemansgtm.weebly.com/index.html
Doing what you like is freedom - liking what you do is happiness
later,
Doug
Had a couple of hours spare today so managed to get the rear diffuser mounted along with Shane's louver insert.
The diffuser itself does not fit well into the body so it took a little finessing to get everything right.
I used thread inserts into the body and chassis so that the diffuser can be removed easily enough in the future.
Could not have completed this without the use of a friends hoist. I think that I would have set fire to the car if I had to do this laying on my back with the car on stands.
Next is to center and trim the exhaust tips then make the exhaust trim pieces to complete the rear.
There are still a few things on the to-do list for the next track day June 4th at MSR.
Cheers,
Dave
GTM # 294 Build Start Date 10/12/2009,
2000 C5 Donor, LS-1 Twin Turbo, AC/Heat, G50-20.02 6 speed, Brandwood Cable shifter
Build site. http://s679.photobucket.com/albums/vv153/dfraser/
I drove my GTM to Carlisle PA this weekend for the Kit Car and Import Nationals. FFR was gracious enough to let me park in their booth (kept my bald head out of the sun!). I had a great time discussing the GTM with at least 50 interested people, and hanging out with the FFR guys and gal (Courtnie, who debuted on the All-Women FFR Roadster Build on Powerblock TV that very morning!).
And Steve's 1/10 model was a huge hit! It's amazing how many women at the show came over just to see it ... "It's soooo cute". Might as well have been a puppy.
-Michael
Last edited by RumRunner; 05-18-2014 at 10:47 PM. Reason: sp
Michael, your car just came my background picture. Love it. picture #3.
GTM #370
Car was completed and I have SOLD my car
http://edgemansgtm.weebly.com/index.html
Doing what you like is freedom - liking what you do is happiness
later,
Doug
I'm back in the land of the living!
Moving to a new house, then some time in hospital and a month of forced rest, then another month of catching up in school....I've been away from the boards for wayyyyy too long!
Gene's videos kept me sane(ish)!
Managed to get this done on the 1/10 scale, though....
(still working out the details on the next coat...)
20140520_082821s.jpg20140520_082814s.jpg20140520_082831s.jpg20140520_082846s.jpg
OOPS.... I guess I should have blown the dust off of her! Dang...didn't think it would show up like that in the photos!
PS...haven't detailed or polished yet...that's the "straight out of the booth" finish. Looks a lot better when its not covered in dust from the bay next to me! D'oh!
Glad to hear that you are still alive! (and ok!)
looking good so far. can't wait to see the final product.
we still need to do coffee. (sorry about that, I really suck at Using The Phone 101)
I am going to be heading back to school myself beginning in august. It is going to be a crazy few months as they are taking a 2 year diploma course and squeezing it into 5 months.
Keep up the good work!
P
Houston Performance Driving had an event a couple of weeks ago and my GTM managed to sneek into the highlights vid.
Makes me wonder what would happen if I gave it a paint job.
http://youtu.be/mGaSq6pCl8E
Cheers,
Dave
GTM # 294 Build Start Date 10/12/2009,
2000 C5 Donor, LS-1 Twin Turbo, AC/Heat, G50-20.02 6 speed, Brandwood Cable shifter
Build site. http://s679.photobucket.com/albums/vv153/dfraser/
It is so odd to see the GTM next to other cars, it is so small.
Last edited by kabacj; 07-03-2014 at 02:35 PM.
XTF #2
build start date June 19 2023
GTM # 344
Build Start December 2010
First track day April 2013
Cheers,
Dave
GTM # 294 Build Start Date 10/12/2009,
2000 C5 Donor, LS-1 Twin Turbo, AC/Heat, G50-20.02 6 speed, Brandwood Cable shifter
Build site. http://s679.photobucket.com/albums/vv153/dfraser/
I took my 10 year old nephew for his first ride in the GTM this weekend. I thought it would be fun to record his reaction for his parents when I got on the gas a bit. He didn't want to stop!
Hope all (in the US) had a good holiday.
-Michael
Hmmmm.... 818R huh? Good for you.
Nice pics.
Mike
The Stig
Some say, that I only know two facts about ducks, (both being wrong); and that if I could be bothered, I could solve the "da Vinci Code" in 47 seconds...
All I know is that I'm called "The Stig".
GTM #0081
Well, for the past couple years I have been talking about what I have been doing to my GTM body. Few pictures, but a lot of talk. I work on this thing a couple hours just about EVERY DAY and many weekends ALL WEEKEND LONG. I've made a lot of changes. So many, that people are telling me it is no longer a FFR GTM. Still, I think it very much resembles a GTM and I have given it the moniker of GTMR. It is starting to take shape...after 3 years, 2 gallons of resin, and over 20 gallons of body filler(you don't want to know how heavy this is) I feel like I am finally getting somewhere. Hopefully the nose will be ready for moulding in the next few weeks, and the rear is getting very close as well. Main body section still needs a lot of details worked out, but it is definitely coming along...
Hood--- GTMR Nose Reconstruction.jpgGTMR Nose Scoop Mods.jpgIMG00415-20130122-1709.jpgIMG00442-20130707-1946.jpgIMG00559-20140426-1816.jpg IMG00576-20140709-1655.jpg
Rear--- IMG00579-20140712-1125.jpgIMG00580-20140713-1500.jpgIMG00581-20140713-1500.jpg
Last edited by crash; 07-14-2014 at 10:47 AM.
Looks good Crash. Are you going to roll in the wheelwell area before making the molds? What are you doing to the hatch glass area? I've done an F1 style scoop in place of the hatch, and I've changed the radiator exit to divert the air around the scoop. I'm doing a flip up rear like the Ford GT. I've done an "open" style rear similar to the LaFerrari and P4/5. With that and side scoops I've made it should cure the cooling issues. Do you have plans to change the very back part of the body for more air flow? I know how much work this is, I think we are the only ones cutting the GTM body up this much. Some days I feel buried in the bodywork but lately I'm starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel. I'm waiting to show the car finished to avoid people asking a bunch of questions like the ones I've just asked! Lookin' forward to seeing your GTMR finished.
Last edited by carbon fiber; 07-15-2014 at 07:13 AM.
I bet that thing is dead nuts on, as far as symmetry, looks good. What are you going to do with it? Do you only have the shell? Will you do all that work, put it on the track to get smashed?
Adjusting things and making them the same right to left was one of the big things I was trying to accomplish. It all starts with the centerline that is on the table you can see in some of the pics. This is a race car. Because I am making moulds and popping out bodies, yes it will be designed to get smashed. We have been extremely lucky with the FFR PDG GTM in that we haven't had a major incident(knock on wood), but in order to take the next step in speed, I felt it also necessary to take the next steps in safety and serviceability/repairability. One thing racing teaches you pretty quickly is that you can work for YEARS on a project and it can all be balled up and on the wrecker in a matter of seconds. If you are a serious racer destroying a car now and again is part of what happens. Sometimes it has absolutely nothing to do with you and your choices. It's just part of the game. Surviving that and continuing to race is only able to happen with good planning...and a good amount of time and money.
I am not going to roll the wheel well areas. This is because I have redesigned the body to accept the largest tires available 725 X 360 rears and 660 X 340 fronts. That's a 28.5" tall by 15" wide rear and a 26" tall and 13" wide front. This is what ALMS LMP1 cars run and I have a set left over from the team I worked on. You can see in picture #3 the FRONT tire in the background. It is A LOT of tire, to say the least. Now, the reason I am not rolling them is because I likely will run a smaller, more affordable tire setup most of the time. Leaving the tire area of the mould flat allows me to size the opening to the specific tire I want to use. The plan is to have a first run of 5 bodies made from the moulds to see how things work out and to have sufficient spares for racing purposes. If there is a stability issue I will glass in a rope on the underside once wheel well openings have been finalized.
The body will be in 6 different parts when this is completed. Rear valance, rear bonnet, center section, 2 doors, and nose. The hatch glass area is now part of the fender area in the rear. I am using Protex latches to connect all the bodywork and see no reason to need to use hood pins or Aero catches. It should be very clean and make for servicing very easily. Should the rear of the car find its way into a concrete wall I'm shooting for a rear body work/engine/transmission change in roughly 15 minutes. That is not easy to do and requires a good bit of thought and planning.
This body is the ultimate low drag model with the required sizing modifications. I may adjust the moulds for down force and cooling in the future, but I decided to keep things clean to begin with. There are ways to deal with cooling. Look at the Grand Am DP cars. Hardly any venting at all. It can be done and the underbody ducting as well as a cleaning out of the rear of the car will definitely help. Again, I can always add scoops and louvers and such, but wanted to make the moulds with a clean closed profile so all options are open "down the road".
I debated posting pictures because I too wanted nothing out there until I had the finished product to show, but it has been a LONG time coming and I felt a little update was in order. Besides, the forums have been slow lately and I thought this might liven them up a bit.
I've also been working on the frame. I bent and tacked the center section up out of 4130, then disassembled it before I end up closing up the body. This will allow me to keep working on building the car even when the body is off to a "fiberglass jeweler" to make the actual moulds. I am also prototyping the uprights and brakes right now, so things are actually moving along much faster than the pictures of the body show.
Last edited by crash; 07-15-2014 at 12:40 PM.
So Carbon Fiber, when will we see your progress???
Sounds good Crash, I'm sure It'll set a new level of performance for anything out there with a GTM body. Sounds like some unreal grip that things gonna have. Even with the body mods you've done it still looks very much like a GTM. Mine shares the basic body lines of the GTM, but the front and rear clip are completely different. So are the top of the hood, hatch and rockers. I've got seven separate pieces minus the doors. The rockers are independent from the body and the front and rear have a lower and upper section. It's sporting a new sunroof too, similar to the Koenigsegg. I've also deleted the window between the interior and the engine compartment. I have closeout panels and then separate interior pieces with insulation between them. I'm going for the most quiet interior award. Probably the polar opposite of what you're doing. But who cares about the decibel level with a helmet on right?
Last edited by carbon fiber; 07-15-2014 at 12:52 PM.
When it's done! I've been tempted many times as I finish certain parts of the car to show pics but I'm going to wait to show the finished product. I've changed so many things as I've built, it would have been confusing anyway. Like Crash and I have both said before, It's a ton of work when it's just one person doing this much modification, and I'm making the molds myself also. I know the forums "didn't see it - didn't happen" motto, but I'm going to get it to paint before I post anything. It'll be worth the wait I promise.
Last edited by carbon fiber; 07-15-2014 at 12:51 PM.
I debated splitting the nose into two pieces, but decided that for crash repair speed it makes sense to have one piece so that alignment issues are minimized. The center section of the car is built for safety. The front and rear can be changed in entirety rather quickly. Still kind of torn with all the lights we use about possibly splitting the nose, but really think that when in doubt, keep it simple.
Last edited by crash; 07-15-2014 at 01:16 PM.
Hey, Crash
are you worried about the center section of the frame being made of 4130?
I was under the impression that moly could be a bit brittle (especially if not properly heat treated/stress relieved after welding), and might break before bending in an unfortunate off-track excursion. I'm pretty sure that the NASCAR rules, for example, require 1.75" x .090 DOM mild steel tubing for all roll cage and safety components.
I'm not second guessing your choice here, merely looking for insights.
Spent almost two hours at the tax office this morning and walked out the door with these.
Although the car is not finished I can at least enjoy driving it and tinker with it at my leisure without needing paper temp plates.
Custom plates will get ordered in the next couple of weeks.
The rules in Texas changed at the end of Feb this year which made the entire process an adventure for DMV, Tax Office and myself. I will give an update to one of the threads on registration with a step by step, but basically my GTM by definition of the new law is a 2014 Assembled Vehicle in Texas.
Cheers,
Dave
GTM # 294 Build Start Date 10/12/2009,
2000 C5 Donor, LS-1 Twin Turbo, AC/Heat, G50-20.02 6 speed, Brandwood Cable shifter
Build site. http://s679.photobucket.com/albums/vv153/dfraser/
I remember the day my registration finally got processed; you must feel like you won the lottery! Congrats on gettin' legal!
Custom LCD Gauges , Data Loggers, Control Touch Screens
www.LCDdash.com \\ 647-522-9953 \\ Voice & Text
Proud new owner of GTM Gen 1., #105 - 08/27/11
LQ9 Powered, G96.00 6 speed transaxle
Cheers,
Dave
GTM # 294 Build Start Date 10/12/2009,
2000 C5 Donor, LS-1 Twin Turbo, AC/Heat, G50-20.02 6 speed, Brandwood Cable shifter
Build site. http://s679.photobucket.com/albums/vv153/dfraser/
This car will be composed of areas that are designed to absorb impacts with "crash boxes" made of carbon and foam in the sides, and also use DOM tubing in the outer "crush" areas. The inner safety area will be rigid and comprised of 4130 and titanium sheets to protect from intrusion during an incident. These items are extremely expensive, but well worth it in the moment that one's life is turned over to these structures to protect it.
Day of loose ends.....
Finally found the vacuum leak (now fixed). I moved my horn to the cruise control button, no more "just the right push" for the horn to work and I finally have seat belts after 2 years of driving illegally. Feels great to finish off the last couple punch list stuff.
I met Aaron yesterday. He's in town and found some time to stop by. His call sign is "AGH" here on the forum. He's building #403 using a C6 Donor http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ighlight=build. Great Guy and it was awesome talking with him.
R/s
Vidal
CURRENT STATUS: Interior Rework and Bodywork.
GenII GTM #331. Delivered (23/9/10)
BUILD LOG AND WEBSITE:
http://gtmbuild.weebly.com/ .
I'm really concentrating on the uprights right now, and am making a jig so as they will all be the same, but I managed to do some more details to the bodywork also...
This weekend and last weekend I prepared to pull my engine to replace the thrust bearing (see my Tic-Tic-Tic thread...).
To make certain I could reassemble everything once I disassembled it, I kept a little log of what I did to pull the engine. In case anyone is thinking of doing this for fun, let this list make you think otherwise!
At least I'm nearly ready to remove the engine ... just need to figure out what to do with the AC system to be able to remove it.
Here's my list, and a picture of the naked GTM....
Transaxle Removal:
1. Disconnect battery ground
Next steps allow rear diffuser to be removed
2. Remove rear license plate and grill to access rear view camera connections
3. Disconnect rear view camera
4. Remove ring from hatch release cable under diffuser
5. Disconnect rear fans
6. Remove diffuser
Next steps remove exhaust
7. Remove exhaust supports (the big “P” shaped ones) from trans mount and exhaust
8. Loosen exhaust clamp rings at x-pipe
9. Remove bolts attaching cat-pipes to headers
10. Remove cat pipes, then remove x-pipe. Only exhaust headers should remain
Next steps remove all attachments from transaxle and sub-frame
11. Remove transmission overflow tube from transaxle
12. Disconnect reverse light switch connectors in transaxle
13. Disconnect speed sensor. Remove speed sensor from transaxle
14. Remove cable shift mount
a. Detach angle adjust with ball driver15. Remove clutch slave cylinder
b. Detach in/out with spring collar
c. Remove mount bolts and nuts (2 trans bolts and 1 trans nut)
d. Remove two small bolts/nuts from small cable mount arm
e. Disassemble small mount arm from main cable mount
16. Remove clutch fork pivot shaft
a. Remove retaining bolt/plate17. Disconnect battery cable from starter
b. Remove rubber grommet
c. Thread M6x1mm tool into pivot shaft and remove while wiggling clutch fork
d. Leave clutch fork in bell housing – will remove fork when transaxle is removed
18. Disconnect starter relay cable from starter
19. Remove starter
20. Remove cable clamps on sides of bell housing
21. Remove catch can
22. Unbolt inner cv joints, move out of the way, and install temp. nuts on the cv bolts to keep them assembled
23. Remove two ¼”x20 bolts holding hatch lock support to trans mount (black sheet steel part)
24. Remove hatch lock assembly and completely remove sheet steel hatch lock support
25. Remove fuel breather filter mounting clips from trans sub-frame
Next steps are preparation for supporting engine and removing transaxle
26. Remove bushing mount for rear sway bar and position sway bar below frame rail
27. Remove rear skid rails
28. Support engine using a 1”x1” square steel tube C-clamped to the chassis just rearward of the oil filter. Use a few washers on each side to space the tube slightly down from the chassis tubes so the 1” square tubing is snug up to the oil pan when clamped. When clamped in this manner, the engine position (height) will remain unchanged when the transaxle is removed.
29. Support transaxle with a few pieces of wood between lower chassis x-frame and transaxle
30. Remove transaxle support bolt at rear end of trans mount
31. Remove trans mount bolts/nuts to chassis to completely free trans mount
32. Remove trans mount through hatch opening
33. Remove transaxle.
a. Remove three nuts the three free nuts34. Catch clutch fork before it falls to the ground
b. Loosen final nut (captive), then slide transaxle back to remove final nut
c. (Note: Needed to cut out a portion of the diffuser body flange directly under the license plate. A semi-circular cut was made to allow the transaxle shift rod to drop down when the transaxle is pulled back from the engine)
d. Slide transaxle straight back, then angle down to clear body.
e. It’s heavy! Use a transmission lift.
35. Remove pressure plate and clutch disk from flywheel
Engine Removal
36. Remove rear hatch from body (allows easier access to engine bay)
37. Drain engine oil; replace drain bolt
Next steps to remove headers:
38. Remove all plug wires (almost all of mine need to be replaced)
39. Remove engine-to-chassis ground cable (driver’s side chassis to cylinder head)
40. Remove oil dipstick/tube
41. Unbolt drivers side header and remove
42. Unbolt passengers side header and remove (Note: this side is much more difficult to extract because of the coolant temperature sensor. May want to drain coolant first, then remove sensor to give more room to maneuver).
Next steps to attach engine hoist plate to valley
43. Remove wiring harness (lots of connectors!)
44. Remove vacuum line from front of intake manifold
45. Remove intake manifold (OK to leave throttle body attached)
46. Clean valley area to keep debris out of cylinders. Clean cylinder heads and tape over cylinder openings to keep crap out
47. Remove valley cover
48. Clean valley flange
49. Install valley cover engine hoist plate
Next steps to remove idler pulley bracket so engine can clear rear wall when removing
50. Remove passenger seat
51. Remove waterfall cover
52. Remove aluminum accessory shield under waterfall
53. Remove serpentine belt by camming idler pulley
54. Remove idler pulley bracket assembly
Next steps to drain coolant
55. Remove coolant overflow canton tank cap
56. Remove trapezoid access cover on underside of chassis
57. Place a dam of some sort (aluminum foil) under main coolant lines where rubber hose meets the straight pipes.
58. Position a garbage can under area to catch drained coolant
59. Disconnect both rubber hoses from the straight pipes and drain coolant
60. When finished draining, re-connect hoses to tubes, ready for refill
61. Disconnect other end of the main hoses from the water pump
62. Disconnect heater hoses from the water pump (need to replace front heater hose – ripped when removing)
Next steps to remove flywheel and KEP adapter plate
63. Remove flywheel
a. Use aluminum angle shop-made tool attached to flywheel to keep it from turning
b. The aluminum tool levers against the trans studs to keep the flywheel from spinning
64. Remove KEP adapter plate
Next steps to deal with A/C compressor
65. What do I do now?
-Michael
Mike...oh crap!!! I'm next, so much for one weekend fix time.
Crash, nice to see you body in one piece again.
I've been making good progress on the LCD gauge project,
and have started to integrate the sonor system into the mix.
Does anyone have a high resolution photo of the GTM from a top view?
Custom LCD Gauges , Data Loggers, Control Touch Screens
www.LCDdash.com \\ 647-522-9953 \\ Voice & Text
Proud new owner of GTM Gen 1., #105 - 08/27/11
LQ9 Powered, G96.00 6 speed transaxle