Brian's Virginia build

[smithbks]

I know I seem to have long delays between updates, but that's what my job does to me...

This weekend was a big milestone for me. The transmission is now in! There's really nothing between me and my first start this weekend. Woo Hoo!

Note for those of you planning to install the transmission separate from the engine - DON'T DO IT! I chose to install my transmission separate for one bad reason and one good reason. The good was that I needed to wait to order it because I had burned through my budget with the engine so the TKO 600 was delayed. The bad was that I was worried about the strain on my floor joists when combining an engine and transmission on the electric hoist. I don't recommend using a hoist unless you do the things I did to reinforce it, and then you don't have to worry. I just over-worried. (I spanned 5 joists perpendicular in two spots with a 2x8 and lag screwed them into the joists. Then I hung a 1 1/2" pipe from the 2x8's and hung the hoist on that so it can move. The final touch was I made a "dead man" out of 2x4's and wedged it under one of the 2x8's when in use to counter the downward pull)

So here is a description of why you don't do it the way I did: You cannot get the TKO up and into position from underneath with the engine bolted in. You need about 3/4" more to clear the bell housing. So, I ended up having to unbolt the engine again to gain a couple of inches. By now it was fully wired so I didn't pull it all the way out. I should have! Once the engien was swung forward I was able to get the transmission up and in and then fit it into the engine and start the four bolts. The A-frame went in ok as did the tranny mount.

Question: The bottom of the boss on the TKO still slightly rubs the frame. Mike Forte cut it off for me and there is only about 1/8" left so it looks really good. Will this clear once the driveshaft is in or do I need to worry about it right now?

So I was feeling really good about my progress until this point. I went to put a wrench on the bolts and tighten them down and it is awful. I have about an 1/8 of a turn of clearance and no room for an air tool for two of the bolts. So for the top two bolts I will spend approximately 2 hours tightening the bolts and killing my shoulder/arm. I'm sure when I'm done I'll fondly remember these times, but for now I think it stinks. Hopefully tonight I can get it done, slip on the driveshaft and get ready to go. That will change my attitude.

[edwardb]

Question: The bottom of the boss on the TKO still slightly rubs the frame. Mike Forte cut it off for me and there is only about 1/8" left so it looks really good. Will this clear once the driveshaft is in or do I need to worry about it right now?

Yes, you need to worry about it. The driveshaft isn't going to change anything. Have you measured your pinion angle yet? Every single TKO install I've seen (including my Mk4) required spacers under the rear transmission mount boss to get it up to the proper angle. This will solve the clearance issue on the frame. Somewhere in the 3/8-3/4-1 inch range. Mike Forte sells a spacer. I made my own. Will look something like this:



Interesting read with your experience installing the transmission after the engine is in. As relatively easy as it is to get the entire engine assembly in and out, you just reinforced my thought to never try that. My TKO was a very tight fit onto the QuickTime bell housing. I wouldn't have wanted to do that assembly other than outside of the chassis. Unfortunately, some of our best lessons are learned the hard way.