That's it. I don't have any of the other lights hooked up, and I tried flipping the switch to see if the cluster lights work and I got nuthin. Not sure if I need to stop where I'm at and figure that out or keep pushing and ignore it for now.
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That's it. I don't have any of the other lights hooked up, and I tried flipping the switch to see if the cluster lights work and I got nuthin. Not sure if I need to stop where I'm at and figure that out or keep pushing and ignore it for now.
You should be able to test the lights themselves with a 12V power supply from a router or RC Car charger or something like that. I love them because they are super low amps (2A) but 12V so they are perfect for testing things on the car. Just run an extension cord over there, plug in the power supply, and then use paperclips to hit the positive and negative feed to the cluster. Then you will know if the lights work or not. From there you can work backwards to find your issues.
https://smile.amazon.com/100-240V-Tr...5863064&sr=8-3
Thanks. I should have been specific. Eventually I'll understand that just because it's in my head doesn't make it obvious, and it definitely wasn't here. I'm more concerned about my wiring than the cluster. I think I remember the lights working before I tore the wire harness apart, but now I'm not 100% positive because it was so long ago, so it looks like I'll be trying this anyway. Good tip, and I have probably a half-dozen of those things laying around. Thanks again.
Uh oh....
The 12V power pack is still a good way to work backwards and find the wiring problem. Keep injecting 12V where you think it should go and work from the light to the switch until you find the connecter where they quite lighting up. Then the problem is between that one and the previous one you tested.
By any chance, did you delete the integrated module when doing the wiring? If so, you may need to jump a wire since the gauge cluster illumination goes through the it.
cluster.png