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Ehansen007/33 Machine Build page
Hey all,
Finally started my build today. Really excited. Just realized there were more parts than expected to powdercoat. I'm surprised the 3 link setup does not come powdercoated but since it's an option they must not do it with the frame. It took a few minutes to clean them up the welds (they got more balls sticking out than the US Men's Olympic swim team) and I'm off to the PC. Then, back to inventory!
Here's my photobucket album!
http://s897.photobucket.com/albums/ac177/ehansen007/
Also, I got my rear end from a local performance shop called GRC. It was used off a mustang he swapped out for a racing rear end. Umberto over there is swapping out the bearings, converting to disc, changing the oil and even hacking off the dog ears and painting it for an even grand. It's a 2.73.
I'm also considering having him build the motor for me since he can get me a 302 fully rebuilt with some new lifters and nice heads that should make an even 275HP or so to start. It would also come with a 3 year warranty and he's local. We'll see if I can't find something better on Craigslist before I take the plunge on that.
Take it easy!
Here's my photobucket album!
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I also just ordered some ceramic coated shorty headers off Amazon for $160!
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Here's the "new-er" rear end. All new bearings and seals. I stayed with the 2.73 for now which is low but it was such a good deal, I can always change it later. I'd rather put that $300-500 towards getting the car rolling. Besides the gears look great. I plan on doing one more coat of paint on it as I was looking for a semi gloss to match the rest of the rear end and the car. I've got a new diff cover coming today which has a girdle system in it for $100 on ebay.
It also came with the brake kit and the axles. I'm in between painting the calipers or leaving them silver and just painting the brackets. Not sure yet.
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Got my new steering wheel in and it is nice. I went with suede since I'll be cruising with the top off a lot in the summer and it wont get as hot as leather. Also, there's no better traction than suede with gloves if I'm going to take her to the track! :icon15: Even the horn button is suede! There's a good chance the chicks will probably dig this..... :shifty: I also like that it's a 350mm wheel vs a 320mm which is what most after market wheels are. I'll need that extra diameter to steer those 245s up front with no power steering!
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This one is easy compared to the other stuff....that is...if you have a nice little bench-belt sander handy. I had to trim the laser cut edges at multiple joints to get around the welds in the frame in the foot box area and the far outsides of the firewall where it meets the body. I had to take them off about 6 times on the lowers to get it right. Then, I used my large bench sander to take off at least 1/8" off the top of the firewall like most of you hear only mine was on the passenger side?
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Picked up a T5 in good shape for $200. Brought her back and gave her a quick flea bath and she's as good as new! On the outside that is. I plan on opening her up to see how she looks on the inside. It's out of a wreck so at least I know there was nothing wrong with it when it came out. The guy said it has 90K miles.
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Factory Five/Russ Francis does a nice job of making this plug and play although it's a lot of wire. The instructions are a bit fuzzy but they do the trick.
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Basic center console. I'm going to do the gauges from the center out and do an EQ and a back-up camera in the console.
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I also installed the e-brake. Turns out I drilled down through the frame and right into the exhaust clamp I put down there so that was fun. I guess you need the stock mustang cables to hook it up. Where do I get those?
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The throttle cable is hooked up but it was a pain. I drilled my first set of holes where it was "comfortable" (according to FFR's manual) and then realized you need to put it where the arm is ABOVE the frame rail on the inside of the firewall. So I drilled another set of holes where it would actually work. Bummer! Even with it mounted in the right place, there is a lot of adjustment to get it to work smoothly with a carb hookup and avoid the "sawing effect" you can get with the angle of the cable and the "S" bend. It's working now though! I also ran some welds on the the pedal mounting bracket to strengthen based on Terry's near death experience.
I wired a lot of the engine with sensor wires for the new gauges, electric choke, horn, starter, etc. The nice thing about the air gap intake is that it gives you a nice place to put the wires. I don't think there will be enough heat under there compared to just outside of it, do you? If I see any issue, I'll relocate them. I covered all wires with conduit as well as a buffer.
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I got some new brake lines for the front from Jegs. The 19's are the perfect length if you swap the left and right for bleeding. Speaking of bleeding. I picked up the air bleeder from Harbor Freight and man that worked great. I got them bled by myself in minutes and it was only $25!
Overall, I'm getting really close to firing the motor. I hope to get a ford expert over here to go over all the details before doing so in case it's all screwed up. I basically made a $500 motor with 90K on it look like a crate engine so I guess we'll see what we'll see. Wish me luck!
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Okay, so I've got the motor started and I had a big party for people to come and help and man did it ever. A really nice guy (xlr8tor) from San Diego drove up in his Daytona and just went to town helping me get her dialed in. Here's the video.
She fired on the first try. We then noticed a misfire and tried rewiring the distributor which didn't work. Finally we just moved the plugs one post counterclockwise to line up with the rotor on TDC and it worked great. Now it starts so fast it's silly!
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Thanks! Although the wheels will be changed soon enough for some deep dish monsters. I will still keep these for track days possibly.
I just got the doors on the car and posted up a video on how I did it. I also did the alignment based on rumbles specs and cut 1/2in off the steering rod, the tie rod end and the LCA. Now I have plenty of room for adjustment! It now appears to be aligned and drives very straight. It's crazy driving a car with no power steering though! Been a long time since my 69 bug in high school. Thanks again Rumbles for your write up on alignment.
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What a PIA! The cables mentioned that should work (FOR-M-2809-A)were 2 3/4 too short (apparently from the new handle assembly). Shortening those was a real task. And I would not recommend this cable to anyone with the new ebrake handle.
I also have a question. Is this the way it's supposed to work? Is that flange supposed to catch the bracket a little for an extra safety catch? At first I thought I would have to grind down this bracket but then I figured maybe it's supposed to work this way? I would understand if they used angle bar here for strength of this tab but, unless I route the cables underneath that previous frame truss and not through it, it will hit this bracket no matter what.
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So I'm thinking I'm going to absolutely attack the wiring in this harness as the next undertaking when I take the body off for paint. Everything is together and working but it's a mess and I've seen some nice wiring jobs out there. I'm thinking some wiring blocks would do the trick. Any advice would be good. I've also created this little center console to hold my switches (Brights, Fan, Fuel, and Backup Cam), EQ, and backup camera screen (bottom). I also plan on putting in a start stop switch but I haven't decided on the location.
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The trunk "formers" (as I believe they are called in the aircraft world a.k.a wing ribs) were just made from aluminum sheet. Instead of trying to bend angle stock, I just used my little bandsaw (a jigsaw would work too) and cut the shape and added tabs a the top and bent them over. I'm going to redo them and possibly have them hardened with a dimpler.
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