Lazrcng MK4 Build Thread

[lazrcng]

Were you able to use the straight driver's footbox inner panel with the Stainless Headers or did you have to go with the bent, offset panel used for modular and big block motors for those headers to clear?
Jim

If I am not mistaken the standard inner pannel will be fine with the headers from Stainless Headers, motor is not in yet to really know. I have not heard of any issues.

[lazrcng]

Thought I would give an update, lots of stuff getting done.

Finally finished the rack and pinion. Needed to cut 3/4" off the driver's side inner tie rod end to get the right fitment.
Fitted, marked, and drilled all rivet holes in driver and passenger footboxes, and trunk. Took all pieces to powder coat (silver vein hammertone)
Fitted and cut trunk floor for FFMetal sunken battery box (very nice add on) took all pieces to powder coat.
Assembled Parking Brake


SilverVein.jpg

Now just waiting for all the Powder Coated stuff to come back to move forward.

Looking forward to the build school this coming weekend.

[hrosenthal]

Some updated photos through Tuesday night.................................

Attachment 17978Attachment 17979

Some issues with the rack inner arms being too long, spoke to Dan at FFR and he confirmed that they would need to be cut about 1/2-3/4 inch. Otherwise its been smooth sailing.

I noticed that you have the tie rods facing down. Does it matter which way they are installed? The manual appears to show them facing up. I'm hoping I got it right on mine.

[edwardb]

I noticed that you have the tie rods facing down. Does it matter which way they are installed? The manual appears to show them facing up. I'm hoping I got it right on mine.

Definitely matters. The tie rods should be facing up. That's the direction of the taper in the spindles. Shouldn't be able to get the tie rods in the wrong way. If so, then the steering arms are on the wrong sides.

[lazrcng]

Definitely matters. The tie rods should be facing up. That's the direction of the taper in the spindles. Shouldn't be able to get the tie rods in the wrong way. If so, then the steering arms are on the wrong sides.

The ends do go in from the bottom, in that photo they were not installed yet as the drivers side was too long (just looks like they were). I had to cut the inner end on the drivers side before final install of the outer ends.

[lazrcng]

Well, still waiting for my tin from the powdercoater and some back order items from FFR so I have been basically doing some small stuff. Routing brake lines and fuel line (taping in place for now), mounting my fan to the shroud, yada yada.

Excited to meet some fellow enthusiasts at the build school this weekend. Driving out tomorrow night.

And a picture cause I know you all like pictures:

QCR.jpg

[lazrcng]

Progress!! Cobra as of last night. Have a few smaller things to do like attached all the brake and fuel lines to the frame, install master cylinder/bleed system. Then time to drop in the motor and trans. Barring any issues the motor and trans will be in by the end of this weekend. WoooHooo!

6-10-12-1 FFC.JPG

[lazrcng]

Got some quality time this weekend. Enjoy the photos:



973469_10200323347303682_682064139_n.jpg997887_10200425150408696_1168426823_o.jpg1006479_10200425154848807_1302448492_o.jpg1020604_10200424884402046_1403954408_o.jpg1021058_10200425157888883_635806476_o.jpg1021058_10200425157888883_635806476_o.jpg

[CraigS]

I am concerned that you only cut the driver's side tierod. Usually there is an equal amount cut from both sides. How did you center the rack and approximate a front end alignment position ?

[lazrcng]

I am concerned that you only cut the driver's side tierod. Usually there is an equal amount cut from both sides. How did you center the rack and approximate a front end alignment position ?

I wondered about that too. When I had the rack on center (2.5 turns) the passenger side was fine but the drivers side was too long to attach to the steering arm while turned all the way on the inner end.

Did I miss something here?

[CraigS]

How did you determine the rack was on center?

[David Hodgkins]

Looking good Scott! SUPER clean so far!

[riptide motorsport]

Nice work...............you'll be gocarting soon!

[lazrcng]

Thanks guys, I am having a ball so far. Should be ready for paint in a few weeks.

CraigS - I turned it lock to lock 5 turns, then split the diff. 2.5 turns either direction from lock then fitted the outer end to steering arms after measuring the front of the tires center to center for rough toe. I thought this would be close to go to alignment. Wrong?

[CraigS]

Sounds good to me. The good thing is that these often have 2.5-3.0 inches of thread inside the tierod end so their won't be a strength problem. I was just a little surprised.

[lazrcng]

Sounds good to me. The good thing is that these often have 2.5-3.0 inches of thread inside the tierod end so their won't be a strength problem. I was just a little surprised.

Agreed, thank you for questioning. Don't want to go wrong there.

[Doubler]

Beautiful build so far!

[lazrcng]

Thank you guys.

[lazrcng]

Thought I would give an update after the weekend.

I am just about done with the wiring. Got the Radiator / Fan Shroud / Fan fitted and mounted. Lots of engine and other stuff done, starter, radiator hoses and overflow, master battery shut off (hidden), made a coil mount bracket to mount coil to front of driver's side head (tore a thumb nail off in the process - no time to bleed though).

Ron Frances wiring set up is nice though wish it was a bit more pliable to work with. I did make some modifications to the harness for cleanliness in the engine compartment. Hooked the battery up and no smoke, thought that was good. Had power to the right places too! ..............

Tonight I will pick up the rest of my panels from powder coat, then the cockpit and trunk can be buttoned up. Also had the LeMons gas cap, trunk and hood handles, license plate light, quick jacks all powder coated black.

6-134.jpg6-13.jpg6-131.jpg6-132.jpg6-133.jpg

[lazrcng]

After about a week and half off for vacation, I spent the day in the garage today.

First start:

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...f&notif_t=like

Started right up sounded great. Have to replace a leaky thermostat housing but all in all runs great.

Also moved the rear calipers to to front of the axle today.

[lazrcng]

Figured out how to load a video:

[lazrcng]

Update:

I have spent the last couple weeks working on the wiring, dash, and misc. small stuff. The car is about ready for it's first drive (Go Cart Style). I did not like the Master Cylinder reservoirs so I ordered a new set up which should be here tomorrow. Once they are mounted I need to bleed the brakes and drive!

Wiring was fun though wished the Ron Francis harness was a bit more pliable and the wires were not all loomed up out of the box. Maybe just all loose so I could have routed the branches for what worked best for my application. I did a fair amount of un-doing and re-doing. Also, made some cool tweaks like hidden headlight switch and high/low beam switch, ignition switch (added a started button), gauge dimmer, and fan rocker for a cleaner dash.

Plumbed my lines for the new Master Cylinder Reservoirs.

Getting excited to have the body on and getting it ready for paint.

FFR9.jpgFFR5.jpgFFR6.jpgFFR7.jpgFFR8.jpg

[lazrcng]

Got the new master cylinder reservoirs mounted up and I should be ready to bleed the brakes this weekend. After that I will drill, seal and rivet the interior panels and mount the seat.

Then it's time for a go cart ride. Whooo hooo!!!

Reservoir1.jpgReservoir.jpg

[lazrcng]

First Drive Go Cart Style!!!! Whooo Whooo!!!!

[lazrcng]

Well last night was a big night for the build.

I "believe" I have completed everything I can leading up to the Body section of the manual. I went ahead and installed the bulb seal and weather stripping in prep for the body fitting. Next is to set the body on this weekend and begin to fit the trunk, hood (and cut the scoop hole), doors, windshield etc.... Then it is off to Schuster Paintworks for paint.

I have to say that the build has been very fun to this point, though I really can use some rest. This past Sunday has been 8 weeks (with two weeks off in the middle) since the build started. I really would like to drive the car "finished" this summer season. Let's hope to take a ride in late Sept. Oct.

I have received lots of information and insight from this forum and it's members : THANK YOU!!!

I have also met and worked with some very good vendors: Breeze Automotive, ********** Accessories, FFMetal, Whitby's, McMaster Car, Replica Parts THANK YOU.

While this next chapter for the build does not include too much work from me I know the anticipation of the Schuster Paintworks masterpiece will be great.

[lazrcng]

Well, it has been sitting in the garage for a week with the body and I could not take it any longer. I had to take it for a ride as it sat with the body.................was AWESOME!!!!!!!


Going to do some fitting of windshield, body and accessory items this eek then hopefully off to paint.



WBody.jpg

[CraigS]

I don't know where you live so not sure how long your summer lasts but anyway...have you thought of driving like this and doing paint when you can't drive it over the winter? Body shops tend to promise X number of weeks and it takes twice that long.

[lazrcng]

Craig.................yes I thought about "completing" it w/o paint, getting it inspected and titled then drive is a bit then paint. Though, the painter is a good friend of mine and he does not take very long like a typical shop.

[oldcobranut]

I installed my Stainless Headers and they did clear the standard, straight inner Driver's footbox; however, header studs will not work at 3 of 4 locations on each bank and must use header bolts that must be removed to change spark plugs. Also, driver's side sidepipe was not parallel to frame rails and Srainless Headers made a tapered flange at no charge that fits between their headers and the side pipes that corrects that splay. Very nice SS headers!
Jim

[lazrcng]

I installed my Stainless Headers and they did clear the standard, straight inner Driver's footbox; however, header studs will not work at 3 of 4 locations on each bank and must use header bolts that must be removed to change spark plugs. Also, driver's side sidepipe was not parallel to frame rails and Srainless Headers made a tapered flange at no charge that fits between their headers and the side pipes that corrects that splay. Very nice SS headers!
Jim

Glad to hear. Also, I will be calling Stainless today, I have the same issue with the driver's side. Thx!

[dforthof]

I'm just starting my build (pick up my car this weekend), planning on sending all the panel out for powdercoating like you did. Any advise? Do you think it's better to drill the rivet holes before powdercoating or not? Did you have to snadblast or hand-sand the panels first so that the powdercoat would adhere? If you had another shot at it, would you powdercoat at all? - thanks!

[lazrcng]

I'm just starting my build (pick up my car this weekend), planning on sending all the panel out for powdercoating like you did. Any advise? Do you think it's better to drill the rivet holes before powdercoating or not? Did you have to snadblast or hand-sand the panels first so that the powdercoat would adhere? If you had another shot at it, would you powdercoat at all? - thanks!

Congrats on getting your car!!! Lots of fun.

Yes, drill the holes before coating. You will find that you will still need to drill some holes for things after coating but it is best to drill the majority before coating. If I had to drill holes after I never had an issue with the coating coming off or chipping. I worked in order of the manual and brought the panels over after drilling, in small loads. No YOU do not have to sand or sandblast them, a good coater will do that as part of the job. Yes, I would coat the panels if I were to do it all over again, it looks great and "finished".

Let me know if you have more questions.

[jackboeker83]

Do u have any pictures of the inside of ur pedal box? I would like to see ur set up from the inside. U used braided steel for the brake reservoir and from the pictures I am not 100% sure what's going on. If u could maybe take a photo of the inside that would be great. Also on that steering wheel did u return the wood one to ff and they give u some credit for the leather one or did u just have to eat it? Also what type of reservoirs are those? They look clean and modern. I am not a fan of chrome and my engine bay is black like urs but I am putting a coyote so I am not sure if that one will fit.

[lazrcng]

jackboeker83 here are some shots I took this AM. My body is mounted as I am fitting doors, hood, and trunk. Footbox top and side still off. Hopefully these help, if not PM me your contact info and I will call to answer questions:

Master.jpgMaster1.jpg

No, I still have the wood wheel, I just purchased the black one separate. I have a few double ups on parts Chrome Drivers Roll Bar (not going to use), Black/Silver Oval "cobra" air filter assembly, etc..... Indecision!!!

[lazrcng]

Well!!!

I made my inspection appt. for Sept. 25th, so I am committed to having it "done enough" for inspection by then. Looking forward!!!

[jackboeker83]

jackboeker83 here are some shots I took this AM. My body is mounted as I am fitting doors, hood, and trunk. Footbox top and side still off. Hopefully these help, if not PM me your contact info and I will call to answer questions:

Master.jpgMaster1.jpg

No, I still have the wood wheel, I just purchased the black one separate. I have a few double ups on parts Chrome Drivers Roll Bar (not going to use), Black/Silver Oval "cobra" air filter assembly, etc..... Indecision!!!

Pictures are worth a 1000 words. I believe I am going to run my remote reservoir the same way you did. I already ran my hard lines to the master cylinder this weekend but it wasnt as bad as I thought. Thanks for the help.

[lazrcng]

I took the car over this past week to Schuster Paintworks. They will be fiiting the doors, trunk, this week. Then I will pick it up and finish the car for inspection. My appt. is the 25th. Once i get my vin an tags set I hope to drive it until the weather turn, then I will give the body back to Schuster for paint over the winter.

[jackboeker83]

Thought I would give an update after the weekend.

I am just about done with the wiring. Got the Radiator / Fan Shroud / Fan fitted and mounted. Lots of engine and other stuff done, starter, radiator hoses and overflow, master battery shut off (hidden), made a coil mount bracket to mount coil to front of driver's side head (tore a thumb nail off in the process - no time to bleed though).

Ron Frances wiring set up is nice though wish it was a bit more pliable to work with. I did make some modifications to the harness for cleanliness in the engine compartment. Hooked the battery up and no smoke, thought that was good. Had power to the right places too! ..............

Tonight I will pick up the rest of my panels from powder coat, then the cockpit and trunk can be buttoned up. Also had the LeMons gas cap, trunk and hood handles, license plate light, quick jacks all powder coated black.

6-134.jpg6-13.jpg6-131.jpg6-132.jpg6-133.jpg

Did you build that battery box?

[seagull81]

Can you get the battery out with the body on?

[lazrcng]

FF Metal battery mod is definitely the way to go. Very clean installation. Yes battery is easily able to be removed with body on. I used a light weight Braille, 21lb. B3121 I think, would have look at recipes to be sure if anyone needed.