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Thread: MKIII #5369 "Refresh" Thread - Lic. Plate and Louvers Mounted

  1. #1
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    MKIII #5369 "Refresh" Thread - Lic. Plate and Louvers Mounted

    No, it's not for sale yet because I'd like to go through it and spruce it up but I thought I'd let you guys know it's coming up soon.

    I'm going to make this a "Refresh"/build thread. There are several areas that need attention, and I'll put those down in a moment, but first a little background on the car:

    F5R1005369RD was purchased in March 2006 and delivered April 22, after the Knott's show, where it hung from the back of the Stewart Transport truck. I spent a year on the forum doing research before pulling the trigger and it's been an ultra-reliable, fun car since I first got it on the road in 2009 and had it painted in 2011 by Da Bat. However, it's been in a perpetual "98% done" state, and I never really finished it. I was having too much fun DRIVING it!

    The Basics:

    • Pin Drive, with Trigo Wheels
    • IRS option, featuring Torsen limited slip differential with 3.55 gears
    • Levy Double Adjustable Koni's
    • Manual Wilwood Brakes
    • MKIV trunk
    • Polished trunk with Russ Thompson expansion box and FFMetal hidden battery box
    • Custom carpet. It's a bit worn so the original carpet will probably be installed
    • Quick-change steering wheels, Leather and wood
    • custom polished cubby behind driver and passenger
    • I-squared wiring
    • Billet cut off switch
    • Custom glove box
    • Custom Kirket lowback seats with custom seat brackets
    • Custom .060 dash and lower support panel
    • Wind Wings, Sun Visors
    • Wilwood pedal box from Fortes
    • Hydraulic throwout bearing (Fortes)
    • FFMetal Firewall expanded driver and passenger footboxes (polished)
    • Ford Racing BOSS 302 Crate Motor - M-6007-X302B - with Canton road racing pan (345 Rated fwhp)
    • Massflo EFI
    • Ceramic coated FMS shorty headers
    • Ceramic Coated Catalytic converters
    • Gas'n side pipes
    • Levy hardened "super" T5 with Midshift due to S10 tail housing
    • QuikTime Bellhousing
    • Breeze Louvers and lower Radiator Mount
    • Overriders and bumpers (boxed quick jacks)
    • Manual steering rack
    • Jeff Miller Customs paint job includes stripes on underside of the hood and trunk


    As mentioned above, I'm going to do a "refresh" to clean up and coat all the polished panels. I'm also putting in some "build" time to finish off a lot of small details that never got done. Here's a - sorry, very big - shot that shows both what is already very good about this build and where it is clearly not finished. Every time I look at the photos from the LA Arboretum show a few years ago I wince a little, because all I can see now is the missing nose aluminum, lack of splash panels, a big hole in the driver's footbox where a fresh vent hose should be, no side louver and no wipers:


    Still, it has a classic look and most of the time no one notices that stuff. At the last Serpents in the Garden show. She looked very pretty, enough to get some air time on the local news. Here are some pics and video from that event:







    And here are a few shots from the HB Cruise-In a few years ago. Again, I see flaws. Weird loose wires in the trunk. No proper trunk prop rod. No block off plate on the trunk lid. No nose aluminum:







    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  2. #2
    Senior Member Raceral's Avatar
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    That is a very nice looking ride.. it will sell in a hurry.
    Thanks,
    Al Adkins
    Certified "Kool Aid" drinker

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    Senior Member Jazzman's Avatar
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    Barrett Jackson starts next weekend here in Scottsdale. It's probably too late to get it into that auction. However in the spirit of this great auto auction, perhaps you want to begin taking bids! It certainly is a great looking car. I'll bet you could get a bidding war going!! Good luck on the sale.
    Jazzman
    MKIV "Flip Top" Roadster Ordered July 30, 2015. Tilt front, Coyote Engine, Tremec T600, IRS w. 3.55 final, 18" Hallibrands, dual rollbars, custom Zebrawood Dash
    Delivered November 25, 2015, First Start December 24, 2016, First Go Cart, January 6, 2017. | Build Thread | Frame Dolly Plan

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    Great color, are the aluminum panels in the trunk polished?

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    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bcovell View Post
    Great color, are the aluminum panels in the trunk polished?
    Yes they are. They will be getting a fresh polish as part of the prep for sale.


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  6. #6
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    5 years later, the original build continues...

    Last night started the work of assembling all the parts that I had neglected to put on the car originally. Since I never "graduated", I guess this is all part of the original build!

    First I rooted around my attic and came up with a box of never-finished and never mocked-up aluminum pieces:



    That's under-door trim, all 4 splash panels, a trunk lid block-off plate and the nose aluminum. I'll be adding nose and upper rad shrouds, and anything else that comes up as the build/rebuild/refresh project progresses.

    As I didn't have the energy to start polishing the front splash panels I decided to start with the nose aluminum. I originally used a breeze lower rad support so I thought the rad would need some adjustment before I would be able to add the aluminum but as it turns out the rad was in a perfect position! That was a nice surprise. I had a heck of a time getting the lower AL piece in place though. I eventually ended up taking one of the over-riders off to get it in there. I decided that I needed to enlarge a few of the cut outs so that the piece would rest against the lower rad mount without tension so I measured an cut them out on my band saw. I then cut new radii into the corners with a round-back file. Here's a shot of the mod. I placed the pieces relative to where I cut them out. The result is a nice symmetrical piece that matches the chassis-centered radiator:



    I only had to modify the passenger side piece to follow the contour of the nose. I then marked and drilled all 3 pieces and fit the bulb seal on the side pieces. I then placed it all in the nose and drilled out the frame and cleco'd it all together:







    When I positioned the pieces, I left enough room the get a wrench in to tighten the over-rider bolts...



    ...but now I realize I'll have to remove the side pieces to remove the bolts if/when I remove the body. I'm not sure if I AM going to remove the body as part of this project so the nose will remain clecko'd for now.

    Next I am going to make an upper rad shroud and based on a tip from AZPete I'll head over to Lowes to see if they have some .025 aluminum I can use for a nose shroud. I should have another update soon...


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  7. #7
    you covered everything pretty much except what engine is in it?
    thanks
    ck

  8. #8
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcflash View Post
    you covered everything pretty much except what engine is in it?
    thanks
    ck
    You're right! I forgot that not-so-minor detail. I've added it above but it is a Ford Racing BOSS 302 Crate Motor - M-6007-X302B - with Canton road racing pan (345 Rated fwhp). It's the same motor as I have in my more recent 15th Anniversary build (see the link in my sig). THAT motor, with a Holley HP EFI pulled 374HP on the dyno.





    For those eagle-eyes out there, I changed out to a QuikTime bellhousing after these pics were taken.


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  9. #9
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    I've been working on the car this week; I started polishing the splash panels until I ran out of Nuvite. Time to order a new batch of F7, C and S! I've tried a few other products and I like this stuff the best.

    Here's my latest batch of panels to do:


    That's 2 splash panels, the upper rad shroud and two 818 door panels that are getting engine turned. Missing is the trunk lid block off plate. After getting the prerequisite "before" shot I got to work doing the rough polish of the splash panels:


    After a while, they start to take the initial shine, although you can easily still see some big swirl marks:


    I ran out of the Nuvite F7 compound when I finished the second splash panel, and since I am out of C and S compounds I decided to quit for now and work on another project, fitting the rear splash panels. In order to get good block-off I had to mount them at a slight angle, further back than my MKIV build. I also loosened the gas tank in order to adjust it horizontally to fit between the rear splash guards:




    Since this car is more traditional than the MKIV build I'm leaving the panels raw, to match the rest of the car. I might come back to all the wheel wells at some future point and either coat them with POR15 or some sort of spray-on bed liner. I haven't decided which yet and need to do some research on different products. but for now, they will stay raw.

    --------------------------

    While I have the car up on the lift I decided to check out the engine area and found a few problems. First, I've got a pretty major leak happening with my remote oil setup. I think it's in the the line-to-remote-oil-filter connection. You don't ever want to see this:


    I'm going to do an oil change this weekend and will take the opportunity to tear this apart and clean it up before putting some fresh pipe dope on and re-assembling. The whole bottom of the chassis is oil-soaked, and while it's actually kind of embarrassing to post about it, at least I'm doing something about it now.

    I found another potential issue in that the lower rad hose actually touches the frame. Not good:



    I'd love to put a new FFR rad in there but don't want to waste the $$$ to replace a perfectly good rad so I'll try to clean up this connection and initial bend to see if I can create a proper gap between the rad hose and the frame.

    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  10. #10
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    I just wanted to add a couple more pics. I thought getting an in-process pic would be pretty cool:



    I really do love this lift! And with the integrated scissor lift I can have a car in the air in literally seconds instead of using a floorjack and jackstands, which you can waste 10 minutes or more futzing with. Plus, I've had the car slip while setting up the jackstands and that just scares the **** outa me! I feel so much safer with a 2200lb car on a 9000 lb lift!:





    If you don't have a lift, GET ONE!


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  11. #11
    Senior Member AC Bill's Avatar
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    David, I added a thick rubber piece zip-tied on at the point that it was close to the frame.
    It acts as a rub protector, if the engine torque causes any rubbing.

    IMG_2989.JPG
    FFR6803RD, MK 3.1, 302 EFI, fr/rr disc brakes, WC-T5, c/w Hurst Competition Plus shifter, 3 link rear, Koni adjustable coil over shocks, dual roll bars, BBK 4-4 headers, 3.55 rear gears, BBK rear lower control arms c/w poly bushings. Ivy Green Metallic Arrived-02/08, On road 09/2010

  12. #12
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by AC Bill View Post
    David, I added a thick rubber piece zip-tied on at the point that it was close to the frame.
    It acts as a rub protector, if the engine torque causes any rubbing.

    IMG_2989.JPG
    That's a good idea. Certainly couldn't hurt! Even if I can create a gap I'm going to add a piece of rubber there as you suggest.

    Thanks!


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  13. #13
    Ok Dave I have to ask. Are you enjoying sprucing up the old ride with that extraordinary new ride sitting nearby?
    MKII "Little Boy". 432CI all aluminum Windsor. .699 solid roller, DA Koni shocks, aluminum IRS, Straight cut dog ring T-5, 13" four piston Brembos, Bogart wheels. BOOM!

  14. #14
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeinatlanta View Post
    Ok Dave I have to ask. Are you enjoying sprucing up the old ride with that extraordinary new ride sitting nearby?
    Well, it's different, that's for sure. It's not an empty slate anymore. I'm debating whether to just polish up the panels by hand and then cover with SharkHide or do I pull the body so I can get to the firewall and cubby wall and really go nuts? Taking it all the way down to the frame and powdercoating seems like a real rat-hole. I don't want to go there. I think my best plan is to keep the original minimalist idea and not get into a bunch of upgrades. I'd really like to do some engine turned bits but I'm worried the car won't have total cohesion if for example I engine turn the upper rad shroud and front nose shroud but leave the firewall polished. My thinking right now is to just polish, sharkhide and install.

    Speaking of nose shroud, I worked on that last night. The front of this MKIII is very different than the MKIV, even the nose shape. As a result, the template I used on the MKIV was almost totally useless. I didn't have any more flashing material so I just went to town on my last 2'x4' piece of stainless. The "grey" color is actually a thin white plastic covering that is protecting he stainless from scratches. If I end up using this and not keep it as a template all I have to do is peel that covering off and it will be ready to polish. This is where it is as of now:

    Sorry for the blurry shot...




    The metal started taking the shape of the opening and as a result the right side is kind of flopped over in this shot:



    I think I'll go to Lowes today and pick up some .025 AL sheet and see if I can get that to work without pulling the rad. If that doesn't work out I'll keep the shroud I made last night as a template and go get some more stainless.

    Tonight I'll finish installing the rear splash guards so I can drop the rear back down and then I'll work on the front splashguards. I need to pick up some 3" hose at a local industrial hardware store so I can FINALLY finish up the footbox fresh-air fan project that was never completed before.


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  15. #15


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    Quote Originally Posted by David Hodgkins View Post
    Well, it's different, that's for sure. It's not an empty slate anymore. I'm debating whether to just polish up the panels by hand and then cover with SharkHide or do I pull the body so I can get to the firewall and cubby wall and really go nuts? Taking it all the way down to the frame and powdercoating seems like a real rat-hole...
    It's a beautiful car as it sits! My opinion (which you didn't ask for ) is to finish up the incomplete bits but resist the temptation to go crazy by yanking the body, etc. Keep in mind your return on investment---of both $$$ as well as your time---when the sale finally comes to fruition. If you spend X number of hours to take it all the way down, polish and upgrade what will it actually put in your pocket vs. simply doing a neat and tidy job of wrapping up the loose ends? Unless of course you just need a hobby 'cause we know how you just looooove to make things shiny Good luck my friend!

    Jeff

  16. #16
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    It's a beautiful car as it sits! My opinion (which you didn't ask for ) is to finish up the incomplete bits but resist the temptation to go crazy by yanking the body, etc. Keep in mind your return on investment---of both $$$ as well as your time---when the sale finally comes to fruition. If you spend X number of hours to take it all the way down, polish and upgrade what will it actually put in your pocket vs. simply doing a neat and tidy job of wrapping up the loose ends? Unless of course you just need a hobby 'cause we know how you just looooove to make things shiny Good luck my friend!

    Jeff
    I agree. I think I'll keep it the way it is and just add the missing bits. I'll probably tear the dash out so I can add a proper glove box though. As it is now there's no GB structure behind the door. It should be a proper glove BOX. I probably should finish the other rollbar too (single full width). It needs to be chromed and have the LED brake lights added. The car will get new tires too. So there's still quite a bit to do still. I want it to be pristine for HB.


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  17. #17
    Senior Member Carlos C's Avatar
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    This project of yours reminds me of when I restored my '87 Mustang 5.0, back in 2007; not because it needed the work, but because I wanted a new (old) Mustang. Keep up the good work. I love reading your updates.

    Carlos
    FFR Coupe #0635; Heart: 358ci supercharged, 603 RWHP, Viper-spec T-56, custom rear end w/ 3.73:1 gears; Soul: '88 Mustang, road/drag racer

  18. #18
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carlos C View Post
    This project of yours reminds me of when I restored my '87 Mustang 5.0, back in 2007; not because it needed the work, but because I wanted a new (old) Mustang. Keep up the good work. I love reading your updates.

    Carlos
    I'm with you. If I sell something I want to make sure it's in great shape first. Thanks for following along. If you have any suggestions, let me know!

    I finished the rear splash guards last night but not without some minor headaches. I removed the driver's side splash guard to get to a few clecos still holding in the rear harness, one of which ended up being a real bear to replace with a rivet. There was also a wire outside of a loom inside the wheel well. It is for the LED brake light on the large roll bar that hasn't been finished yet. You can see it - and one of the clecos - in the shot below. Also worth noting are the cleckos holding in the brake line chassis bracket. I have to get some POR 15 applied to that bracket before riveting so that'll be another project to do a little later:



    The cleco that gave me fits was in the rear-most corner of the chassis, right above where the rear loom "Y's" in this shot. It took me almost a 1/2 hr. standing in various positions trying to get a ***-**** rivet in there. And yes, I did redo the electrical tape at the end of that loom:



    Here's the finished panel, after applying silicone and riveting. Also note the loose wire is now snaked into the loom:



    By the way, here how I attached the ear to the body, using a padded c-clamp to hold the two together.



    I drilled it with a 1/8" pilot hole first, then the 3/16" bit went through like butter. I spaced it 1/2" from the edge of the body. The finished rivet almost faces straight down and can't be seen normally:



    ...and here's the driver's side panel. The green wire is the ground for the lemans gas cap:



    ...and another shot at ride height. It feels good to see this FINALLY finished!:



    To those that might be horrified that I put a rivet through the body, I say, "What rivet?"

    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  19. #19
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    More progress...

    I evened out the front over riders and installed the front bumper last night. I trimmed the over rider tubes a bit to bring the over riders a bit closer to the body and the bumper hoop is noticeably closer. What do you think?







    I also started working on fitting the front splash guards. They needed a lot of "english" to re-bend them to fit properly, They had flattened out considerably over the years being stacked in various boxes. Here's the passenger side just sitting after being worked into position. I think I'm going to put some more bend in the panel before I'm through. I also obviously have to open a hole for the hose that should be connected to the fan for the footbox vents. I still need to purchase the hose for that.







    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  20. #20
    cobra Handler skullandbones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Hodgkins View Post
    More progress...

    I evened out the front over riders and installed the front bumper last night. I trimmed the over rider tubes a bit to bring the over riders a bit closer to the body and the bumper hoop is noticeably closer. What do you think?







    I also started working on fitting the front splash guards. They needed a lot of "english" to re-bend them to fit properly, They had flattened out considerably over the years being stacked in various boxes. Here's the passenger side just sitting after being worked into position. I think I'm going to put some more bend in the panel before I'm through. I also obviously have to open a hole for the hose that should be connected to the fan for the footbox vents. I still need to purchase the hose for that.






    Little adjustments like that will be missed by many people but sure make a difference in the fit and finish. I like moving the bumper and halo in closer. Looks good. Still have some of that stuff to do on mine yet. Driving is so much more fun.

    Good luck,

    WEK.
    FFR MkIII 302 (ATK), EFI 75mm TB with custom box plenum chamber, 24# injectors, 4 tube BBK ceramic, cold air sys, alum flywheel, crane roller rockers, T5, Wilwood pedals, custom five link with Watt's link, 4 rotors, coil overs, power steering with Heidt valve, alum FFR rad, driver's crash bar mod, mini dead pedal mod, quick release steering wheel hub #6046

  21. #21
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Yesterday I took out the few rivets I had in the F Panels and pulled them off the cars. The only rivets were the brake hardlines and the panels had never had silicone applied so once I pulled the clecos - yes, the panels were still being held on with clecos - they came right off.

    This F-Panel as you can see is being "protected" by a layer of oil, courtesy of the remote oil filter. Can't wait to get to THAT project...



    I do think once these panels are shined up again they will look quite nice:



    ...and it will be nice to finally get rid of the gaping holes that have been behind the front wheels forever:



    Now that I've got the f-panels off the car and drilled to be ready to assemble with the splash guards I've got everything off the car that still needs to be polished by machine. Everything else will be polished by hand. I'm putting all that off for a bit so I can drill the holes for the vent hoses yet to be installed, fix that oil leak and get the wipers installed.


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  22. #22
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Whelp, it's been an interesting few weeks. I went to drain my air tank and found out it was dangerously rusted! Everything was put on hold while I fixed it:
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...ost-rusted-out!

    The "F"-panels are cleaning up nicely though...


    The air compressor is back on-line and I'm picking up some new footbox vent hose today so we're back on track!


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  23. #23
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    I guess I forgot to update the thread on another issue: The leaky remote oil filter. I removed the bracket and hoses from the car and worked over the hoses with a wire wheel to clean them up. The hoses went from this:



    ...to this:



    Here are some more shots taken during the cleanup:









    Here's hoping the oil deluge is a thing of the past!


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  24. #24
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    The air tank rehab project got it's own thread, and I took the advice contained there to replace a section of hardline with softline. Since I work on the car mostly in the evenings and only part time on the weekend that sucked another day from the MKIII project. But I'm finally back on task and making some progress.

    The latest task is finally adding the foot box vents. The fans have been wired and working since the initial build, but the hose I installed originally between the front intakes and the fan self-destructed and took one of the front hose intakes with it. (I still have to replace that.) the hose that came with the vent kit was simply too flimsy. I found some robust 3" wire-reinforced hose at a local industrial supply house. Unfortunately the shortest they have is 25' so I'm going to have a ton left over.

    I never had the front splash panels installed, and I had to cut out holes for the vent hose. One the driver's side I also have the front harness coming down from the foot box so that would have to be accounted for too. I'm glad I waited because the outer dimension of this hose is bigger than the original hose, at nearly 3-1/2". I first made a template of the hole I wanted, which isn't a perfect circle. Once I had that I traced it onto the splash panel I carefully cut it out with my dremel, using both the small cut off wheel and grinder tip.

    Here's the driver's f-panel and splash panel with the harness and vent holes:


    The other main thing not installed was the vent waste-gates. The problem there is that on both sides, but the passenger side in particular, the waste gates don't stick up through the sheet metal very far, and getting a hose clamp to grab it is nearly impossible. So I decided to make some extensions that I would screw onto the waste gate collar and give the hose something more stout to be clamped on to. I went to Home Depot and found these 3" vent hose elbows that fit the collar nearly perfectly:



    I ended up cutting the bottom 2+" off the elbow to use as the collar extension. However, even with the tight fit the extension was too big for the hole in the foot box, which meant I'd have to push the collar through the foot box from the bottom, and then screw the extension on from the top of the foot box. Here's what the passenger side collar looks like with the extension bolted on:


    And here is what it looks like mounted and with generous amounts of silicone applied for waterproofing. I actually added a bit more silicone on the front after the pic was taken but the pic came out too blurry to post:


    The driver's side was better, and it ended up looking like this:


    ..and here it is with the hose installed:




    continued...

    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  25. #25
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    ...I just wanted to add this...

    I wish Goodyear would start making the Eagle GTII's again! They are a decent road tire, and their looks! I totally dig them over, say, BFGs...



    The car is going to go back together after the vent hoses are finished so I can take it to the CA BAR and get a new sticker put onto the frame instead of the firewall. If I can get that done in a timely manner the plan is to take the body off so I can pull the firewall and give it "the treatment"! Then I can give "the treatment" to the upper fan shroud and front nose shroud like TROJAN has.




    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  26. #26
    Senior Member Carlos C's Avatar
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    David:

    May I suggest for you to invest on a hole saw set? By the tools you described using, I'm sure the holes took you a while to cut, and the job was tedious. The hole saw would have done the job in seconds. I also noticed that the holes have jagged edges. I would recommend using a round file to smooth them out. Otherwise, you may end up damaging your hoses and harness. The hole saw also makes smooth edges. Keep posting. I love reading your updates.

    Carlos
    FFR Coupe #0635; Heart: 358ci supercharged, 603 RWHP, Viper-spec T-56, custom rear end w/ 3.73:1 gears; Soul: '88 Mustang, road/drag racer

  27. #27
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carlos C View Post
    David:

    May I suggest for you to invest on a hole saw set? By the tools you described using, I'm sure the holes took you a while to cut, and the job was tedious. The hole saw would have done the job in seconds. I also noticed that the holes have jagged edges. I would recommend using a round file to smooth them out. Otherwise, you may end up damaging your hoses and harness. The hole saw also makes smooth edges. Keep posting. I love reading your updates.

    Carlos
    Carlos,

    Yeah, what I probably should have at least is one of those variable cut bits, you know the one with the adjustable arm that sticks out. These holes are a little oblong too to account for the angle of the splash guard, although it could have been more so, judging from last night's work. That's why I made a pattern before cutting, to match side to side. I do have a set of hole saws, which I've used to make dashes, cut holes in panels, etc.

    Thanks for the tip on the round file. I did hit it some more and also bought some plastic trim ring to line the hole with, which you can see in these shots:









    I need to buy a few more worm clamps but the passenger side is done for now. I still need another front air vent cover to attach the hose to on the driver's side to complete that side. I made some brackets to hold the pull cables for the waste-gate that I need to cover with POR15 before installing.

    I got an appointment for MONDAY at the BAR so everything is going to be buttoned up and tested starting today through the weekend. I've decided that after the BAR appointment I'm going to pull the body off to really detail the aluminum and sharkhide it. I'll also pull the firewall to give it some ET racing stripes. Basically try to bring it up to the 2nd build standard.

    I'm still on the fence about upgrades for power steering and a radio though...


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  28. #28
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    I drove the car around a bit this weekend and it seems there is still an oil leak. It looks like it's coming from the main seal (UGH!) so after I take the car to the BAR today to get the sticker changed out I'm not only going to be pulling the body but I might be pulling the motor as well...


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  29. #29
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Kleiner View Post
    It's a beautiful car as it sits! My opinion (which you didn't ask for ) is to finish up the incomplete bits but resist the temptation to go crazy by yanking the body, etc. Keep in mind your return on investment---of both $$$ as well as your time---when the sale finally comes to fruition. If you spend X number of hours to take it all the way down, polish and upgrade what will it actually put in your pocket vs. simply doing a neat and tidy job of wrapping up the loose ends? Unless of course you just need a hobby 'cause we know how you just looooove to make things shiny Good luck my friend!

    Jeff
    Quote Originally Posted by David Hodgkins View Post
    I agree. I think I'll keep it the way it is and just add the missing bits. I'll probably tear the dash out so I can add a proper glove box though. As it is now there's no GB structure behind the door. It should be a proper glove BOX. I probably should finish the other rollbar too (single full width). It needs to be chromed and have the LED brake lights added. The car will get new tires too. So there's still quite a bit to do still. I want it to be pristine for HB.

    Quote Originally Posted by David Hodgkins View Post
    I drove the car around a bit this weekend and it seems there is still an oil leak. It looks like it's coming from the main seal (UGH!) so after I take the car to the BAR today to get the sticker changed out I'm not only going to be pulling the body but I might be pulling the motor as well...

    Seems I couldn't help myself.

    It started out with "Gee, it's hard to get to the entire firewall to re-polish it. And you know, it would look cool if I engine-turned it..."

    A slippery slope? More like:



    You may have noticed I went a little dark. I've been busy. I basically decided that if I was really going to sell the car, it deserved to be as right as possible. So I made a list of projects:

    • A̶l̶l̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶p̶o̶l̶i̶s̶h̶e̶d̶ ̶a̶l̶u̶m̶i̶n̶u̶m̶ ̶s̶h̶o̶u̶l̶d̶ ̶r̶e̶c̶e̶i̶v̶e̶ ̶a̶ ̶g̶o̶o̶d̶ ̶f̶i̶n̶a̶l̶ ̶p̶o̶l̶i̶s̶h̶ and be protected with sharkhide.
    • F̶r̶o̶n̶t̶ ̶s̶p̶l̶a̶s̶h̶ ̶g̶u̶a̶r̶d̶s̶,̶ ̶u̶p̶p̶e̶r̶ ̶f̶a̶n̶ ̶s̶h̶r̶o̶u̶d̶ ̶a̶n̶d̶ ̶n̶o̶s̶e̶ ̶s̶h̶r̶o̶u̶d̶ ̶n̶e̶e̶d̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶b̶e̶ ̶p̶o̶l̶i̶s̶h̶e̶d̶.̶
    • The wheel well aluminum should be sprayed with bedliner paint.
    • The under body needs more bedliner paint.
    • The oil leak needs tending to. (oil NOT leaking during rest after tightening oil pan. Will it after running??)
    • Some detailed pieces, like the hood hinges, needed touch-up paint.
    • The engine bay wiring was functional, but ugly. I need to go through and clean it up. (90% done, just need to wrap with tape)
    • Engine turn the f̶i̶r̶e̶w̶a̶l̶l̶, c̶u̶b̶b̶y̶ ̶w̶a̶l̶l̶ ̶(̶b̶o̶t̶h̶ ̶s̶i̶d̶e̶s̶)̶ ̶ upper fan shroud and front nose shroud. All with racing stripes.
    • New tires. I'm thinking Cooper Cobras. 235/60 R15 front, 295/50 R15's rear.
    • Chrome plate full width roll bar and add LED brake light wiring.
    • Power steering? (probably not)
    • Add access panel to upper driver's footbox panel.
    • No clecos anywhere! 10 years after kit delivery, there are still clecos on the car.
    • Wipers were never hooked up. Motor was installed, but the wipers themselves never were...
    • Replace o-rings on fuel injectors.
    • Detail clean the ENTIRE car.
    • A̶d̶d̶ ̶g̶l̶o̶v̶e̶ ̶b̶o̶x̶ ̶w̶a̶l̶l̶s̶ ̶b̶e̶h̶i̶n̶d̶ ̶d̶a̶s̶h̶.̶
    • Fix carpet.
    • ...


    In short, it's looking BAD for HB!

    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  30. #30
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    OK so on 3/21 I drove the car for the last time. Despite my twitching eyelid and increased blood pressure from the trepidation I felt I dug into this new phase of the refresh.

    First things first, off with the body!

    Good bye roll bar, doors, bumpers, body bolts, trunk, gas tank tube, windshield, hood. Oh, and unplug lights. Thank you weatherpack!



    Remember all that progress on the nose aluminum? pffft.



    And here is a sight that makes every builder want to cry:





    Everyone get wrinkles folks. That's genuine patina right there. Right??


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  31. #31
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Next I found out that yes indeed, you can actually remove the body with the splash-guards attached:



    Looking at the go-cart, when I saw the engine bay the gravity of what I was about to do hit me:



    Look at that engine bay. Disgusting. When I built the car I took a lot of pride in polishing up all the engine bay and trunk panels but I never wanted a beauty queen. The car has been an ultra reliable cruiser from day one and has almost 12,000 miles on it. I had polished the panels once between 2012 and 2016, and the road grime was certainly doing it's bit to contribute to the mess.

    Two things about this next shot. The SPCN sticker ended up being a bear to get off. And look at that wiring! It really hit me how good the current complete kit wiring is. The EFI harness added another squid to the pod. I had a couple of small looms coming into the engine compartment via the EFI harness, only to exit the other side into the driver's footbox! Lastly, after I loomed all the wiring initially I had to add all the sensor wires (Hey, it was my 1st build!) and that is contained in it's own separate loom that was just tie-wrapped to the bigger main loom. Wiring the thing was the hardest part of my initial build and I was more than happy that it ran! Clearly though, I have to see what I could do about cleaning up that mess:



    Oh, and then there's this:



    Again, the thing is, everything worked! The gauges have issues though. They are very early speedhut gauges that I got through Kirkham racing. (they had them way before FFR). When you turn on the key a little Kirkham logo flashes. It's kinda cool. Well anyway, it uses another early generation external GPS box that I miss-calibrated so the speedo was recording 2 miles for every one. Awesome. The little LED screen on it that shows - among other things - the fuel level isn't backlit and can't be read at night, and finally all the gauges have needles that don't light up so they too are hard to read at night. So I pulled all the gauges and sent them off to speedhut for $126 worth of upgrades.

    This is an outline of the access door I'm going to add to the driver's upper footbox. I've never used DZUZ fasteners before and will give it a shot for this project:



    I know the SOMEWHERE beneath all that road grime, a beautiful panel is waiting to shine again! This time, I'll add jeweling and Sharkhide and we'll see how long that can last:




    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  32. #32
    Mr David

    Thanks a lot. Now that makes two cars I cannot visually take apart and learn from the "masters ", you and CRZN 427 at HB 2016.
    I know there will be others but I "wasted" three years looking at the hot rod until this past winter changed my mind to the
    roadster.

    On a side note that is an interesting place for the " roll over " switch.

    Greetings from the high desert Lancaster, Ca.

    Cecil

    PS 26 hours till big " Tonka Truck " arrives

  33. #33
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    In order to polish and engine-turn the firewall, I had to remove it from the car. Step one drill all the rivets. I hate to admit this, but I put that sucker together with 1/8" rivets. Believe me, the firewall was in there SOLID, but I'll drill those out to 3/16" when I put it back together. I had a few issues getting the firewall out. First, I had 2 hardlines routed through it. The rear brake lines and the clutch line. Luckily, the rear brake line has a union just below the bottom of the firewall so it could just be unhooked. But the hydraulic clutch line was a single piece between the master cylinder and a short soft line connection at the clutch arm:



    OK so there's a union way down next to the 4" tube. The point is it's too big to pull with the firewall and so I cut it out and ordered a new braided softline from Fortes. It's plug and play, a real snap to install. It doesn't route through the firewall, but goes through an existing slot at the top of the footbox. It will occupy a space currently taken by a to-be-rerouted wire loom. Plus with the 90 degree fitting at the clutch the line isn't as exposed as before. It went from this connection:



    To now, roughed in, it looks like this:



    The second obstacle that stumped me initially was the silicone between the firewall and the frame. I ended up using a screwdriver to pry the two apart, but it took some force. I proceeded carefully though and the firewall came out without any bends. It's too bad FFMetal doesn't make these anymore.

    Once I had the firewall out I pulled the rear cubby wall, f-panels and front splash guards, and set up the ol' polishing station. They, plus the upper rad shroud and front nose shroud, all needed a ton of additional work to bring them to full shine:





    continued...


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  34. #34
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Polish.

    PolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPo lishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPoli shPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolish PolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPo lishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPoli shPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolish PolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPo lishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPoli shPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolish PolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPo lishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPoli shPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolish PolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPo lishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPoli shPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolish PolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPolishPo lishPolishPolishPolishPolish.














    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  35. #35
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    ...setting down the polisher for a moment, I started on the wiring. The first thing I did was drill out the rivets (and pull a CLECKO - grrr) holding the EFI harness, which had the sensor and wiper harnesses zip tied to it. Then I stripped said harnesses and figured out which wires were going across the engine bay.



    It turned out to be the wires for the MAP sensor and the coil, in two separate looms. The coil wires ran down the front harness to about the f-panel, where they exited the harness to attach to the coil. One of the coil wires was joined to a wire going to the distributor at the rear of the engine so the decision was made that the coil wires would follow the path of the distributor wires and cross to the coil from the front of the engine. I used a small screw driver to disassemble the coil plug and carefully fished the wires out from the front harness loom. I then merged the coil wires into the distributor harness and fed it under the intake to the front of the motor.

    Another change I'm making is to shorten both power cables that feed into the cockpit by routing them through the bottom of the firewall instead of following the harness out to the edge of the chassis and back. That saves 2 feet of thick wire (X2) and with those gone I should have enough room in the original harness loom for all the sensor wires. Once I re-loom everything you should see how much difference dropping out that big sensor loom is!

    Speaking of looms, when I hooked up the motor originally I laid the looms on the top of the motor along side the fuel rails. By re-routing all those through the valley under the intake the whole motor will look a lot cleaner. Just halfway through the process on the driver's side, you can see the intake below the fuel rails now, a much cleaner look:




    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  36. #36
    Hi David,
    reall cool how you just finish the "missing bits" and the outcome will be nearly a completely rebuild. I'm more than impressed and getting really jealous to see you working on your baby. I'm now just waiting, dreamimg and further investigating...
    Great to follow all you guys here...
    Georg

  37. #37
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lancaster Lad View Post
    Mr David

    Thanks a lot. Now that makes two cars I cannot visually take apart and learn from the "masters ", you and CRZN 427 at HB 2016.
    I know there will be others but I "wasted" three years looking at the hot rod until this past winter changed my mind to the
    roadster.

    On a side note that is an interesting place for the " roll over " switch.

    Greetings from the high desert Lancaster, Ca.

    Cecil

    PS 26 hours till big " Tonka Truck " arrives
    Cecil, thanks for chiming in. Did the "Tonka Truck" arrive?

    And, is there something wrong with my inertial switch placement?



    Quote Originally Posted by Georg View Post
    Hi David,
    really cool how you just finish the "missing bits" and the outcome will be nearly a completely rebuild. I'm more than impressed and getting really jealous to see you working on your baby. I'm now just waiting, dreamimg and further investigating...
    Great to follow all you guys here...
    Georg
    Georg!

    How are you my friend? Hope everything is good in China... Still thinking about Paris, or the States?


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  38. #38
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    This past weekend I spent more time working on fixing up the engine harness and also engine turned a few panels.

    This is the coil wire, which was one of the wire looms that was spanning the back of the engine bay. It was grouped with the distributor wiring loom and now exits the front of the motor where it will cross over to the coil. You can see in this shot ho much I need to shorten it:



    I re-routed the power cable that is being fed from the alternator from the driver's side footbox and it now is grouped with the othe power cables. There are now NO wires running from the DS footbox to the motor. The wiring has all been routed and gathered on the passenger side, and id now routed under the fuel line:



    Once all the wires were re-routed I put the loom back on. I lost two additional looms on the passenger side and after I wrap it it should look nice and tidy:



    Once I had the harness under control I tied it to the upper hoop to give me full access to the passenger foot box. After a good clean up and some hand-applied polish it started to get that ol' shine back:





    Speaking of polishing, I put a final polish on the firewall before engine turning. How's this?





    continued...

    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  39. #39
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    continued...

    Back to engine turning. Yesterday I did the firewall and one side of the cubby wall. They came out really nice! I was able to use a single pad for each section and so they are all really even. I'm feeling much more comfortable with the process now:











    Today I'll engine turn the back of the cubby/trunk wall and maybe even finish engine turning the nose shroud. There is still tons to do but I MUST have the body back on THIS WEEK!!


    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


  40. #40
    Administrator David Hodgkins's Avatar
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    Just because...



    I engine turned the cockpit-side of the cubby wall last night, after taping up the trunk side and doing some detail polishing on the cockpit side.

    This time I used the first side as a template to set my center stripe and then measured out the rest befor starting on the engine turning. Like the first side, it only took me 3 5/8" disks of the scotch bright to do the whole panel. One for each side and one for the center stripe and pin stripes. I'll let the pics do most of the talking on this one:





    Measuring 1/2" offset for the pinstripes...



    Now stepping 1/4" back in to set up the pinstripe:







    continued...

    FFR 5369 Pin Drive, IRS, Trigos, Torsen, Wilwoods, FMS BOSS 302 "B" cam , Mass-flo. CA SB100 (SPCN) Registered
    Delivered 4/23/06. "Finished" 4/2012 (still not done!)


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