Plavan's 818R Build Thread

[C.Plavan]

Thanks Bob. I'll look at the manufactures website to check. I found the ball joint box.

[DruOdil]

The bump steer kit is from Baer. I bought it through Summit. Yes, it's aluminum and blingy

Jeff- yes, those are M16's in the upper hole. They fit perfect after some tapping with a rubber mallet. The bracket welds can make it difficult.

I'll also add another tip in addition to being able to improvise- do yourself a favor and buy a ton of metric hardware, then buy more. I bought a ton (McMaster-Carr is your friend- and have a great IPAD app for ordering). I'm using it all over. I don't like the fact they mix SAE and metric fasteners. It should all be metric, and I hope they consider that in the future. I only use SAE where I have to. There is nothing worse than grabbing the wrong wrenches at the track when you are in a hurry. Not to mention my track tools/crash box is all metric- haha.

I looked on Summit for the bump steer kit. It said it was for 2002 to 2005 WRX. I have a 2006 WRX donor is there any reason they wouldn't work?
Thank you, Dru

[Wayne Presley]

100 lbs is plenty, the tapered seat of the spindle adapter and ball joint virtually becomes one part at that torque and the castle nut and cotter pin locks the two together. Make sure you align the pin hole before tightening, otherwise you have to pull them apart and that's not fun...

[C.Plavan]

100 lbs is plenty, the tapered seat of the spindle adapter and ball joint virtually becomes one part at that torque and the castle nut and cotter pin locks the two together. Make sure you align the pin hole before tightening, otherwise you have to pull them apart and that's not fun...

Thanks Wayne. That's what I was worried about.

[C.Plavan]

I looked on Summit for the bump steer kit. It said it was for 2002 to 2005 WRX. I have a 2006 WRX donor is there any reason they wouldn't work?
Thank you, Dru

I believe my front spindles (98% sure) are from a 2006 (Non donor build here). I was worried when I ordered it. I have not torqued down the tie rods to final spec, but it looks like it should work fine.

[longislandwrx]

Chad, what spindles are you using? Bolt in hubs/bearings?

[C.Plavan]

Nope- They are just the press in bearings. I pressed new OEM bearings in all 4 corners (actually 6........ forgot the rear caliper backing plates the first press.....lol)

FYI- Great tool for rat tailing the spacers out that FFR sends you. You will find that a lot will not fit over the bolts. You need to file them. Grab a couple of these and attach them to your drill. They also make a Sawzall attachment, but it is not really needed.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[wleehendrick]

FYI- Great tool for rat tailing the spacers out that FFR sends you. You will find that a lot will not fit over the bolts. You need to file them. Grab a couple of these and attach them to your drill.

I just de-burred everything this weekend and now you're telling me I have to go back and open them up?!? Seriously, though, thanks for the tip; just added it to my Amazon cart.

[C.Plavan]

I just de-burred everything this weekend and now you're telling me I have to go back and open them up?!? Seriously, though, thanks for the tip; just added it to my Amazon cart.

Haha- Sorry! About 40% of my spacers did not slide over the respective bolt. PITA with a manual Rat Tail File. This thing is the bomb.

[C.Plavan]

More progress- Mocked up the front radiator- now I know what you guys are saying about the bottom radiator outlet interfering with the steering rack boot. I'll look again at build threads, and raise the radiator up.

[C.Plavan]

Edited due to vendor policy.

Wheels, Wheels, Wheels- Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2's- If they can take the abuse from the Bristish Touring Car Championship, they can handle anything I can throw at them.

I'm going 17x8 front ~19 pounds (et+40, 5x100, 56.1 hub bore) and 17x9 (et+40, 5x100, 56.1 hub bore) ~20 pounds both Matt black.

The only bad thing is that it will be 6-8 weeks for delivery (They have to be made-Europe). I'm ok with the wait because I have experience with these wheels on the track. They are tough, unlike other brands I would never track.

[David Hodgkins]

Chad, group buys are reserved for supporting vendors... Maybe you can give Wayne Presley or another vendor a call?

[C.Plavan]

Chad, group buys are reserved for supporting vendors... Maybe you can give Wayne Presley or another vendor a call?

Opps Sorry!

[Wayne Presley]

I have a set of those wheels for the Lotus. nice wheels

[David Hodgkins]

Oops Sorry!

No worries Chad; I've let it go before on an item that no vendors were selling. But if one of our own vendors can facilitate it we should give them the opportunity...

[DruOdil]

Chad, on your steering rack did you just plug the other 4 holes? I can see the 2 that you connect together to equalize pressure. The instructions don't address it.
Thank you, Dru

[C.Plavan]

Chad, on your steering rack did you just plug the other 4 holes? I can see the 2 that you connect together to equalize pressure. The instructions don't address it.
Thank you, Dru

Hey Dru,

Yes, I just used clear silicon to plug the other holes. Just clean them with some brake cleaner before so the silicon sticks good.

I think Wayne did some great videos on the GRM car that explains a lot of stuff missing from the manual.

[FFRSpec72]

So just catching up as I prepare for a R build. This whole control arm spacer seems to be poorly designed, why wasn't there just a R mount at the right height?

[C.Plavan]

So just catching up as I prepare for a R build. This whole control arm spacer seems to be poorly designed, why wasn't there just a R mount at the right height?

No sure why- but they are trying to make as many 818 frames as fast as they can I imagine.

This is what I just got back from Jim at FFR- All future 818R builders use this as a good reference.

"Chad,

Sorry for the delay here.
The low ride height is something we designed into the chassis to allow for building a dedicated track car only that you are willing to compromise any street use as well as things like trailer and lift access. The standard donor package still assumes the higher ride height so there is some sourcing of parts needed to do the low ride height.

What you need if you want to run the lower ride height (not recommended for street use) This ride height is also only set up for Sedan control arms.

Move the upper control arm to the top of the chassis and put 4 .815 spacers in the old arm mounting locations to strengthen the new mounting location. Longer bolts will be needed to mount the arms on the top.
Mount the front lower control arms in the upper set of holes on the front mounts.
For the rear bushing mount on the control arm the inner mount bolt should be spaced up by .875 and the outer bolt should be mounted on top of the plate with a .400 spacer as a starting point. The height of the rear mount can be raised if you would like to dial anti-dive into the chassis as a tuning tool.
Running the low ride height requires the use of a bumpsteer kit because the steering rack stays in the same chassis location. We used the Baer kit but drilled out the spindles and replaced the tapered shaft with a longer bolt for more adjustment.

In the rear the low ride height mounts will only work with adjustable control arms. The easiest and intended set-up is to use 13 inch long swaged tubes with 3/4 shank rod ends that have 5/8 holes. We then drilled the rear spindles out just a hair to allow us to use the standard size rod ends and a 5/8 cross bolt.

Hopefully that gets you started in the right direction, there is lots of adjustment that can be done and when you are ready I can also give you our baseline setting to start out from if that helps.

Jim"


As you can see, we have gotten a lot of different numbers for the LCA spacers- Now 7/8" (.875) inner and 13/32 (.4063) outer. That outer one has been changing a lot (he does says its a start at .400)- but we have gotten 11/16th (.6875), and 9/16th (.5625). I want to know what is exactly on the FFR 818R? Is it (.4063)?

I may CNC the outer spacer block to .400 then add shims, or just do a .5 block.

This is where I over think things.

[longislandwrx]

Awesome, sounds like an answer that was thought through. I think these numbers sound accurate and a good place to start.

[C.Plavan]

Awesome, sounds like an answer that was thought through. I think these numbers sound accurate and a good place to start.

I'll order up 10 sets each of outer and inner blocks. it will be raw 6061 aluminum (enough for 5- 818R's) I'll make them in the measurements Jim provided. We could use 1 or 2 fender washers as shims if needed (keeps cost down).

[C.Plavan]

All ordered- I'll have them in about 8 business days

Outer:


Inner:

[C.Plavan]

Well- I officially have a "Roller" (If I had wheels...lol). It looks like I'm going to have to buy some junk wheels if my race wheels do not show up in time. Motor/trans are going in next.

FYI- Installing the rear Wilwoods is not as simple as bolting on. There is a little careful grinding and drilling involved. The fronts were a piece of cake compared to the rears.

[Scargo]

I'll be racing it at COTA (Austin, Tx) later this month at the SVRA National Championships. I cant wait to drive that Formula 1 track.

New to the forum and looking forward to building an 818. I was born near COTA. Now, in CT, I hope to get on it myself one day. Back in the day, I raced on Texas World Speedway.

[JeromeS13]

New to the forum and looking forward to building an 818. I was born near COTA. Now, in CT, I hope to get on it myself one day. Back in the day, I raced on Texas World Speedway.

Welcome, Glyn!

[longislandwrx]

Looks great, I was scared to put that shock brace on, the edges are so sharp I was worried someone would lose an arm. I'll wait until the very last minute.

I also went to harbor freight and got a few packs of their earth magnets and used them to install the under battery, belly pan and a few more panels to keep them in position and out of the way until I am ready to install.

[C.Plavan]

Here are some pictures from COTA a few weeks ago. I had the National Championship in the bag until I lost 3rd gear in the 1.5 hour enduro . The enduro was BEFORE my final race.... and in the rain... I didn't like that, and I proved to be right. There is always next year. I got down to a 2:32- but I had another 2 seconds in me. (2.5L motor spitting out 211 RWHP)

[Frank818]

Were you on 2 wheels? The picture isn't clear due to the shadow.

[C.Plavan]

Usually only on 3 wheels, but I have been known to get on two The spectators love it. Ironically, it handles better that way for me.

[longislandwrx]

My Aunt had a Riviera/Mexico/ Blue? 944 back in the day. Love light blue Porsches.

[Frank818]

Ha, that one's clearer!
Probably on 2 wheels cuz the suspension travel is really small too. But still must be fun. And less tire wear! lolll

[C.Plavan]

Threw the Clutch Masters Aluminum Flywheel on last night and torqued everything down. I plan on installing the clutch/pressure plate today sometime (CM FX-400 6 puck). Hopefully I will have time to put the motor/trans in car later today- if not Friday. Darn work gets in the way.

[Mechie3]

Do you have an 06 motor?

[C.Plavan]

It's a Frankenstein 2.5L motor from AJW- Everything is 06/07 except new case etc. My trans is a Legacy GT- matched up the clutch/flywheel to the trans

FYI- Picked up two used harnesses for an 06- The engine area one with box and under dash one. I will be using your awesome guide to trim crap out. Thanks again for putting that together.

[Mechie3]

If its an 06 that big valve on the back can be removed (both of them). If its an 07, there is 1 valve (iirc) that can be removed except you need to retain the sensor on the top (cut it off valve body).

[C.Plavan]

If its an 06 that big valve on the back can be removed (both of them). If its an 07, there is 1 valve (iirc) that can be removed except you need to retain the sensor on the top (cut it off valve body).

Thanks- I have a lot of questions on what can be removed. I figured I would leave it to the guys like yourself who really know about these motors.

[longislandwrx]

Chad Just send that out to NY. I'll have it trimmed down lean and mean in no time. no guaranty on the mileage when it comes back though.

[C.Plavan]

Chad Just send that out to NY. I'll have it trimmed down lean and mean in no time. no guaranty on the mileage when it comes back though.

I'll pay you to have it done by 2014! Haha

Guess what?....
The motor/tranny is IN! I called my Dad to come over to help guide it in, by the time he got there (15 min) it was already in. So easy.

[C.Plavan]

Just a picture of it in..... Now time to clean the garage, then start going at it again.



Hmmmm what next? I need to find outer CV's that fit, then I can remove the 4 wheel drive stuff. I am going to cut out the "Seat limiter bar", then maybe start doing some of the interior..... Not looking forward to wiring.

[Santiago]

Chad, I thought the official word from FFR was that they recommended against cutting out the seat bar due to an important structural role they feel it plays. Are you planning on a different brace/support that will suit your seat placement, or are you just leaving it out altogether?

Best,
-john