Adam's Canadian 13B Rotary 818-SR Build

[Canadian818]

Starting to sort out my axle, hub, and brake upgrades. I assembled the front 07 STI axles with rear outer cv’s. I’ve cut up my 07 Impreza hubs to use a bolt on STI front hub/bearings. I’ll eventually source STI front knuckles so I can run the same bearings all around. My wheels and rotors have both 5x100 and 5x114.3 holes as I knew this would eventually be happening. Today I test fitted the axle to make sure it will work, and it will, still have a 1/2” of in/out play with the axle level. I’ll be using a square brake setup, STI front calipers and Z32 aluminum calipers will be on all 4 corners now. Calipers will show up tomorrow and I’ll figure out how to mount them. Also need to make the flange to bolt in the hub to as it’s currently a light press fit.

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[Canadian818]

Well it's done, and I think editing the video took longer than the whole engine build. That's ok, I enjoy the end result and sharing my build. This video is obviously rotary engine specific and might be boring to anyone not interested in my Doritos, however if you skip to about the 35 minute mark (yep, she's a long one!) then there's a time-lapse of assembly that might interest you. Engine is now fully assembled and installed, and with any luck I'll be firing it up for the first time tomorrow.



If you're not already subscribed to my channel, I'd appreciate it! Link to YouTube below.

https://youtu.be/ZJYJ5ES3-fY

[Canadian818]

Modified my ZDM 5mt shift linkage to fit the 6mt. All gears are easily found and have a crisp feel, little to no flex felt from the cables. I'll probably add shift stoppers to the base of the kTuned shifter at some point so I can slam the gears and feel a firm stop. I'd imagine that would make it feel like traditional mechanical setup. Still need to cut down and clean up the rear bracket but first I need to sort out my reverse lockout. I recall someone using a lever and bike cable in a build thread, but I don't remember who. It's unfortunate how much good information gets lost in build threads. Has anyone done the reverse lockout electronically with a solenoid or actuator?

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[Rob T]

I ended up using a twist lock, push pull cable mounted left of the driver's seat. The lock helps me make sure nothing moves on the track. I have a different set up in the back and used the factory arm on the lock out with a fabricated bracket. There are pics in my build thread.

If I remember correctly, Hobby Racer did a really excellent mod as well. His design would not fit on my transmission because we have different attachments in the back.

You definitely want this or finding 5th is a nightmare, at least on the track.

[Canadian818]

I ended up using a twist lock, push pull cable mounted left of the driver's seat. The lock helps me make sure nothing moves on the track. I have a different set up in the back and used the factory arm on the lock out with a fabricated bracket. There are pics in my build thread.

If I remember correctly, Hobby Racer did a really excellent mod as well. His design would not fit on my transmission because we have different attachments in the back.

You definitely want this or finding 5th is a nightmare, at least on the track.

Cable is probably the most reliable way to go, but I had it in my head to try and do it electronically. I used a door lock actuator that tucked nicely in under my cable bulkhead bracket. 6” adjustable rod to my modified factory lever. Failsafe is no reverse, but I can change that by adjusting the rod if so inclined. Got 4 actuators for $20cad on Amazon, and it has more than enough pull. Flip a switch on the console and reverse becomes available. I’m really happy with how the whole setup came out. Took longer to do it neatly, but definitely worth it. Need to change out the rod ends to match the other bits but that can be done later.

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Only mechanical thing left to sort out is the hub/brake assembly. But my calipers are stuck in Memphis with FedEx.

Got some ecu issues sorted a couple days ago, and then the temperature plummeted into the -20’s. Will warm up in the next few days so I’ll fire up the rebuilt engine. My anxiety level about starting this motor is brutal. So much time and money tied up into one moment. Wish me luck!

[Rob T]

An innovative solution. The other thing I learned is that there are multiple position in the rotation of the lever that either allow or prevent reverse. I solved that with some mechanical stops in my linkage.

[FFRWRX]

Very nice work! And just to prove you are in Canada.........the small box of parts from Princess Auto.

[Canadian818]

An innovative solution. The other thing I learned is that there are multiple position in the rotation of the lever that either allow or prevent reverse. I solved that with some mechanical stops in my linkage.

I noticed that too. The manual makes it seem like the hole needs to be aligned to lockout reverse. If someone wanted more return spring pressure they could just rotate it more and find the next lockout position.

Very nice work! And just to prove you are in Canada.........the small box of parts from Princess Auto.

Haha, good catch! It's such a useful place, but you just got to know what is ok to be "powerfist" brand and what you should maybe spend a little more money on. I actually got my shift cables from there, couldn't believe it, thought for sure I'd have to pay a fortune ordering them from south of the border.

[Blu]

I actually got my shift cables from there, couldn't believe it, thought for sure I'd have to pay a fortune ordering them from south of the border.

I never thought PA would have something like that, nor did i even think to check? Checked online, yup 5 in stock, heading there tomorrow to pick them up. Thanks for that!

[Canadian818]

I never thought PA would have something like that, nor did i even think to check? Checked online, yup 5 in stock, heading there tomorrow to pick them up. Thanks for that!

I'm glad to help! They're pretty cheap, especially when you save on shipping across the border, and they sell the cable end-links too!

[Canadian818]

I've been updating this thread more so my videos are just a little behind. In this one I button up the engine, flush my oil coolers, finish up the flat floor under the engine, and fab a panel to seal the intake from the turbo/engine. Jump to 18:15 for a laugh if you're not interested in watching it all.




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https://youtu.be/br3RqnWbzmM

[Canadian818]

Continuity is a little off as you all know my engine is in and so is the 6mt. I cover the frame modifications required to fit the 6 speed in this video, next video will cover my DIY of converting it to 2wd.




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https://www.youtube.com/channel/UClP...WJbWScfpuzsCGg

[Canadian818]

Rear brake and hub mods are coming together. Still have some work left on the brackets, I gotta add a flange for the hub, and of course a bunch of welding. But it’s coming along nicely, spring is right around the corner and this is the last modification required to make it driveable.

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[Hobby Racer]

I wish mine was that close to being drive able

I would be careful about welding directly on the hub that close to the bearing location. The casting will most likely distort slightly from the heat and make the bearing hole out of round. You may need to precision bore / hone out the hubs afterward.

[Canadian818]

I wish mine was that close to being drive able

I would be careful about welding directly on the hub that close to the bearing location. The casting will most likely distort slightly from the heat and make the bearing hole out of round. You may need to precision bore / hone out the hubs afterward.

I know it’s hard to tell from that picture but I’m using bolt on STI front hubs that fit in a piece that will be welded after. This is a base model knuckle that was opened up to accommodate the STI axle. No part of the old assembly bore is relevant anymore. I’ll detach the new hub bore and flange before welding the caliper mount and then weld it on after. While it’s a “bolt on” hub, it’s still a slight press fit.

[Canadian818]

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Really dragging my feet on my knuckle modifications. Almost done! Lots of care needed when welding to cast, pre/post heating, peening, and slow cooling. I’m using some dye penetrant to check for hairline cracks. No cracks, but found a few pinholes that could be a future starting point for a crack. Need to grind them out and weld them up and then I can start assembly. Unfortunately my rotors won’t be here until I head away for work again, but hopefully I’ll have these done and mounted before I leave so it’s only fitting the rotors and calipers left.

[Hobby Racer]

Welding cast iron, especially old, greasy cast is a real challenge. Looks good!

[Canadian818]

Finally edited this video. Filmed in January, lol. Car is all back together now, got a few days off so I'll start breaking in and tuning the new engine. Wish me luck!




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https://youtu.be/wMs_Us4hn00

[Frank818]

Oh yeah! Finally seeing some progress! It's really good, but... January? lollll
We all understand how much time working on these beasts take and video editing/posting isn't priority. Unless you teach your wife how to do it. Could you?

So, when should we expect a street or track video of you driving those massive rubbers?


Hey Adam, how does your fuel and timing look like on that 13B? How rich are you running, how low or high timing is it running?

[Canadian818]

Haha, no the wife couldn’t be bothered.

I have a first start video filmed, and now that it’s all back together I’m just working on the tuning. Might take it for a drive tomorrow.

Rotaries don’t like timing, so that’s quite conservative, and AFR’s are rich. Under full beans it’ll be 10.5-11:1

[Frank818]

Holly crap! 10.5-11! Is it fouling plugs after a while?
No wonder why the RX7 and RX8 always were thirsty engines. Well, better have a couple of runs before Trudeau decides to ban combustion engines. lolll

[Canadian818]

Holly crap! 10.5-11! Is it fouling plugs after a while?
No wonder why the RX7 and RX8 always were thirsty engines. Well, better have a couple of runs before Trudeau decides to ban combustion engines. lolll

A lot of that is for cooling, but mostly detonation protection. Most tuners don’t use knock sensors cause once you can detect it, it’s too late.

And don’t get me started on that guy.

[Canadian818]

Long time without update. Plan to do a video catching up on some progress but I weighed my car today and wanted to share the results. Surprised at just how heavy it is. I know the 6 speed added 100lbs, and my wheels/tires add a fair bit, and also 3/4 tank of fuel, but still more than I expected. CEEC9FC2-05C7-404D-A0A8-6B4FB7D10DE2.jpeg

[Sgt.Gator]

Long time without update. Plan to do a video catching up on some progress but I weighed my car today and wanted to share the results. Surprised at just how heavy it is. I know the 6 speed added 100lbs, and my wheels/tires add a fair bit, and also 3/4 tank of fuel, but still more than I expected. CEEC9FC2-05C7-404D-A0A8-6B4FB7D10DE2.jpeg

It is surprisingly heavy. Heavier even than mine with a halo cage. Is this without a driver in the seat?

I've added your data to the Post Your Weights thread. let me know if I need to edit it. Thanks.

[Canadian818]

It is surprisingly heavy. Heavier even than mine with a halo cage. Is this without a driver in the seat?

I've added your data to the Post Your Weights thread. let me know if I need to edit it. Thanks.

This is without driver.

[FFRWRX]

So it isn't an 818.......it's a 1023.

[Canadian818]

Once again I’m waaaaay late editing a video, but it’s more about documenting the build then keeping anyone else’s attention. There’s a teaser at the end that you won’t want to miss!!!





https://youtu.be/cSiC_uif6LA

[Frank818]

Oh wow, 1023kg? I am at 1040, how can it be so close to a heavy VR6 with G50...
You don't have any idea what makes it fatter than expected?

[Canadian818]

Hey Frank, the 6mt is 70lbs more than a 5mt and I doubt the g50 weighs any less then the 6mt at 163lbs dry. Also while a rotary is in fact a small package it isn’t lighter than the ej25. I have a large rad, and two large oil coolers with 30ft of -10 oil line all full (7-8L of oil). Three fuel pumps. The turbo is 30lbs. The extra body work making it widebody. Sound deadening on the entire floor and all 4 wheel wells. 13” vented rotors front and back. And my wheels/tires are particularly heavy, the rear wheels are 27lbs each! (Something I hope to remedy in the near future)

It's definitely heavier then I expected, but it’s not hard to account for it all.

[Frank818]

The turbo is 30mins.

You got a 30-minutes turbo? How does it work, after 30mins it gets heavier? LOOLLLLL

I am impressed about the 6mt, the G50 is 153lbs dry, that's still 10 pounds less than the 6mt!
And all the other stuff you added above makes a lot of sense... It takes what it takes to get your car where you wanted (which is pretty darn far!), I believe the weight is the compromise most of us did. In the end it's still lighter than a Lotus, so we're good.

27lbs for the rear wheels, you probably mean 27lbs for the RIM alone. It's a wide rim!

So... you driving it more often, now?

[Canadian818]

You got a 30-minutes turbo? How does it work, after 30mins it gets heavier? LOOLLLLL

I am impressed about the 6mt, the G50 is 153lbs dry, that's still 10 pounds less than the 6mt!
And all the other stuff you added above makes a lot of sense... It takes what it takes to get your car where you wanted (which is pretty darn far!), I believe the weight is the compromise most of us did. In the end it's still lighter than a Lotus, so we're good.

27lbs for the rear wheels, you probably mean 27lbs for the RIM alone. It's a wide rim!

So... you driving it more often, now?

Haha, yeah the turbo is 30lbs, lol.

And yes each rear wheel is 27lbs, the wheel and tire combined are 60lbs!

I’ve been driving it, slowly tinkering with the tune and at the same time learning more and more about tuning. At the same time I’ve been tracking my rx8 and improving my driving skills prior to tracking this little monster. With any luck I’ll be tuned well enough for the track in the next month and then start testing there. At some point I’d like to get it on a dyno, but that can wait until later in the fall when the track is closed.

[Frank818]

the wheel and tire combined are 60lbs!

Holly f******** crap!

Crossing fingers you'll learn good while slowly driving it and taking experience with the x8 before you post a monster video of the 818 flat out!
This fall is in a few months, pretty close! I'll be watching my youtube notifications.

[Canadian818]

I've been terrible with filming and editing the progress of this build. The last 10% of any build seems to take the longest, and is so tedious that it doesn't make for good content (wholesome or otherwise, lol). So I made a video recapping the progress I made last year, the problems and the wins. Lots of driving videos sprinkled in there, but not being from the tik-tok generation I decided to reward those with attention spans and the better clips are later in the video.



https://youtu.be/80qk3hDQ-38

[Rob T]

Your car sounds amazing. Thanks for the update.

[J R Jones]

C818 For what it is worth, I bought a 1983 RX7 with a bad 12A. I had access to a Mazda factory built marine 13B with a four barrel carb that dynoed at 200hp. I reconfigured for the car and bought Racing Beat exhaust.
The primaries had pre-chambers and twin pipes continued back to the rear muffler which was kind of a Borla copy. The sound was what I described as "titanium bees". It was terrific and not too loud.
jim
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[Canadian818]

C818 For what it is worth, I bought a 1983 RX7 with a bad 12A. I had access to a Mazda factory built marine 13B with a four barrel carb that dynoed at 200hp. I reconfigured for the car and bought Racing Beat exhaust.
The primaries had pre-chambers and twin pipes continued back to the rear muffler which was kind of a Borla copy. The sound was what I described as "titanium bees". It was terrific and not too loud.
jim
RX-7 redux 002.jpg
RX7 engine.JPG

I love a clean FB, very nice car! With some good resonators a rotary can sound good and not crazy loud. My problem is I don’t have the room for long resonators or pre-chambers like on a rx7. The car also got quite a bit louder after the rebuild as I went aggressive with the engine porting. I’m about halfway done the new exhaust now. I’m using a much bigger muffler that’s 1 into 2 and then two resonators but I’ve eliminated the cat. It should flow better than before and with any luck be quieter too. It’s using up all the real estate above and on the sides of the trans and adding weight, so hopefully it’s not for nothing.

[J R Jones]

I love a clean FB, very nice car! With some good resonators a rotary can sound good and not crazy loud. My problem is I don’t have the room for long resonators or pre-chambers like on a rx7. The car also got quite a bit louder after the rebuild as I went aggressive with the engine porting. I’m about halfway done the new exhaust now. I’m using a much bigger muffler that’s 1 into 2 and then two resonators but I’ve eliminated the cat. It should flow better than before and with any luck be quieter too. It’s using up all the real estate above and on the sides of the trans and adding weight, so hopefully it’s not for nothing.

C818,
My Nikki four barrel was small, the Racing Beat Holley would have made more power.
I had bridge ported secondaries and stock primaries that resulted in great idle and throttle response. Getting vacuum and velocity across the venturis is a challenge.
As mentioned on the forum before, the SCCA GT3 RX7s use a large muffler can with lava rocks inside. When they disintegrate they open the can and put in new rocks.
The sound level was legal on the track, I don't know about the street.
jim

[Canadian818]

Didn't get any better last year with filming or editing in a timely manner. Another attention span reward at the end of this one. I have some more driving videos, so I'll put them together with some of my analysis in the coming weeks. Only a few upgrades this winter, so expect some dyno and track videos finally! If you think it feels like forever, imagine how I feel!




https://youtu.be/D-KEZp6se78