Adam's Canadian 13B Rotary 818-SR Build

[Canadian818]

Grabbed some axles out of the attic that I figured I’d keep, turns out they all use the same outer spline with the exception of what I’m running now. The furthest one away is 07 non-turbo outer and wrx inner with the FFR supplied shaft, next is 99 STI, then 04 wrx I think, followed by the 07 STI axles that came with the trans. I might be able to do this much easier and cheaper by modifying and adapting the 07 non-turbo rear spindle to the 07 STI front bearing. If I go this route then I’ll have to use one of the rear axle outer cv’s as the fronts with the tone ring are too fat to fit into the spindle. My goal is to only have to buy bearings/hubs but I realize I might have to buy a axle shaft if one of these doesn’t work.

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It might make more sense if I mentioned that I’m no longer using the rear drum handbrake and plan to duplicate my 2 piece DBA front rotor and Z32 calliper front setup on the rear. At the time I had that part of the build done it wasn’t known that matching brakes are preferred on the 818.

[Canadian818]

Engine build is underway. She'll now have the brap brap idle that modified rotaries are known for as well as even more power potential than before. Typically bridgeports and peripheral ports idle around 1500-2000rpm, I should be able to get it closer to 1000rpm with the drive by wire.



https://youtu.be/rrlTRa7xM8o

[Canadian818]

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Modified the frame today for the 6mt. Used my lowered mount from the 5mt and fortunately the washers scored the paint so I just bolted it up where the 5mt mounted. Set the input shaft at the right elevation and mocked up the new tubing. Also weighed the 6mt as is, no fluid, no conversion.

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[Canadian818]

6mt is installed!

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After the 2wd conversion it’s down to 163lbs. My 5mt is 104lbs, so it’s an extra 60lbs behind the rear axle. I’ll leave the 6mt in for this coming summer’s testing and tuning, but I’ll keep the RA 5mt as I might want to try it later on and see if I can feel the difference. Of course that’ll have to wait until I’m comfortable enough with the car on track to be able to measure the change.

My 6mt is a 2007 without the pump, and while it’s supported by FFR I didn’t feel like paying 1/3 of my transmission cost ($500cad w/ shipping) for the adapter. I mostly followed John’s (Hobby Racer) instructions, but the DCCD is quite different than the VSCD so my welded adapter looks different. I’ll eventually edit my video on it and add the info to his 6mt thread.

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Welding the tail housing was a huge PITA. There’s just no getting it clean, contaminated right through. But it’s welded on both sides and I leak tested it. Using my modified slim transmission mount, and my engine sitting 1/4” higher on the mounts I had to trim the rear frame. Mounts are fairly solid and there’s about a credit cards width gap, lol

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Transmission oil pan is just below the frame so I’ll have to cut a hole in the diffuser to clear it. I wonder if it’s worth removing it and welding on some cooling fins as they’ll be in some good airflow.

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[Hobby Racer]

I mostly followed John’s (Hobby Racer) instructions, but the DCCD is quite different than the VSCD so my welded adapter looks different. I’ll eventually edit my video on it and add the info to his 6mt thread.

That would be excellent. I've been hoping someone would add DCCD specific instructions for those looking to convert that style of transmission.

[Santiago]

Transmission oil pan is just below the frame so I’ll have to cut a hole in the diffuser to clear it. I wonder if it’s worth removing it and welding on some cooling fins as they’ll be in some good airflow.

Adam have you considered remolding the diffuser surface after you cut a clearance hole? Sticking a bluff body in the roof of your diffuser is less-than-ideal. If you smooth this out though, the air won't mind much.

My trans platform mods dropped the trans (5MT) far below the frame, but I don't want flow interrupted. So I'm going to just mold around it. Just a thought.

[biknman]

Finally able to catch everyone up on the project! Car is really coming together nicely, but unfortunately it isn't all good news. Going to be a busy winter, but I'm confident she'll be ready and waiting for spring! Just found out a track near me (10mins away!) is reopening and I'm so pumped. It's a technical and tight little track designed for karting and bikes, basically auto x on steroids with walls and gravel pits! So I now have 2 tracks close by to put the car and myself to the test.



https://youtu.be/Pp-OX0iRGUE

Canards look great! Good to see they made it up there OK.

[Canadian818]

I’ll probably get around to cutting it this weekend, so I’ll see just how much it sticks out. My hope is I can get away with it, but if need be I can definitely mold around it. I’ll post pictures once it’s cut so we can discuss further.

[Canadian818]

Thanks again man! I really love their aggressive look. For those who don’t know, Dave offered these canards, and when I inquired about how much he said “You can have them for the cost of shipping, consider them a form of payment for making some great YouTube video content that I have enjoyed over the years.” Sorry if you didn’t want that shared Dave, but good guys like you make this community what it is! Cheers

[Canadian818]

Starting to sort out my axle, hub, and brake upgrades. I assembled the front 07 STI axles with rear outer cv’s. I’ve cut up my 07 Impreza hubs to use a bolt on STI front hub/bearings. I’ll eventually source STI front knuckles so I can run the same bearings all around. My wheels and rotors have both 5x100 and 5x114.3 holes as I knew this would eventually be happening. Today I test fitted the axle to make sure it will work, and it will, still have a 1/2” of in/out play with the axle level. I’ll be using a square brake setup, STI front calipers and Z32 aluminum calipers will be on all 4 corners now. Calipers will show up tomorrow and I’ll figure out how to mount them. Also need to make the flange to bolt in the hub to as it’s currently a light press fit.

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[Canadian818]

Well it's done, and I think editing the video took longer than the whole engine build. That's ok, I enjoy the end result and sharing my build. This video is obviously rotary engine specific and might be boring to anyone not interested in my Doritos, however if you skip to about the 35 minute mark (yep, she's a long one!) then there's a time-lapse of assembly that might interest you. Engine is now fully assembled and installed, and with any luck I'll be firing it up for the first time tomorrow.



If you're not already subscribed to my channel, I'd appreciate it! Link to YouTube below.

https://youtu.be/ZJYJ5ES3-fY

[Canadian818]

Modified my ZDM 5mt shift linkage to fit the 6mt. All gears are easily found and have a crisp feel, little to no flex felt from the cables. I'll probably add shift stoppers to the base of the kTuned shifter at some point so I can slam the gears and feel a firm stop. I'd imagine that would make it feel like traditional mechanical setup. Still need to cut down and clean up the rear bracket but first I need to sort out my reverse lockout. I recall someone using a lever and bike cable in a build thread, but I don't remember who. It's unfortunate how much good information gets lost in build threads. Has anyone done the reverse lockout electronically with a solenoid or actuator?

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[Rob T]

I ended up using a twist lock, push pull cable mounted left of the driver's seat. The lock helps me make sure nothing moves on the track. I have a different set up in the back and used the factory arm on the lock out with a fabricated bracket. There are pics in my build thread.

If I remember correctly, Hobby Racer did a really excellent mod as well. His design would not fit on my transmission because we have different attachments in the back.

You definitely want this or finding 5th is a nightmare, at least on the track.

[Canadian818]

I ended up using a twist lock, push pull cable mounted left of the driver's seat. The lock helps me make sure nothing moves on the track. I have a different set up in the back and used the factory arm on the lock out with a fabricated bracket. There are pics in my build thread.

If I remember correctly, Hobby Racer did a really excellent mod as well. His design would not fit on my transmission because we have different attachments in the back.

You definitely want this or finding 5th is a nightmare, at least on the track.

Cable is probably the most reliable way to go, but I had it in my head to try and do it electronically. I used a door lock actuator that tucked nicely in under my cable bulkhead bracket. 6” adjustable rod to my modified factory lever. Failsafe is no reverse, but I can change that by adjusting the rod if so inclined. Got 4 actuators for $20cad on Amazon, and it has more than enough pull. Flip a switch on the console and reverse becomes available. I’m really happy with how the whole setup came out. Took longer to do it neatly, but definitely worth it. Need to change out the rod ends to match the other bits but that can be done later.

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Only mechanical thing left to sort out is the hub/brake assembly. But my calipers are stuck in Memphis with FedEx.

Got some ecu issues sorted a couple days ago, and then the temperature plummeted into the -20’s. Will warm up in the next few days so I’ll fire up the rebuilt engine. My anxiety level about starting this motor is brutal. So much time and money tied up into one moment. Wish me luck!

[Rob T]

An innovative solution. The other thing I learned is that there are multiple position in the rotation of the lever that either allow or prevent reverse. I solved that with some mechanical stops in my linkage.

[FFRWRX]

Very nice work! And just to prove you are in Canada.........the small box of parts from Princess Auto.

[Canadian818]

An innovative solution. The other thing I learned is that there are multiple position in the rotation of the lever that either allow or prevent reverse. I solved that with some mechanical stops in my linkage.

I noticed that too. The manual makes it seem like the hole needs to be aligned to lockout reverse. If someone wanted more return spring pressure they could just rotate it more and find the next lockout position.

Very nice work! And just to prove you are in Canada.........the small box of parts from Princess Auto.

Haha, good catch! It's such a useful place, but you just got to know what is ok to be "powerfist" brand and what you should maybe spend a little more money on. I actually got my shift cables from there, couldn't believe it, thought for sure I'd have to pay a fortune ordering them from south of the border.

[Blu]

I actually got my shift cables from there, couldn't believe it, thought for sure I'd have to pay a fortune ordering them from south of the border.

I never thought PA would have something like that, nor did i even think to check? Checked online, yup 5 in stock, heading there tomorrow to pick them up. Thanks for that!

[Canadian818]

I never thought PA would have something like that, nor did i even think to check? Checked online, yup 5 in stock, heading there tomorrow to pick them up. Thanks for that!

I'm glad to help! They're pretty cheap, especially when you save on shipping across the border, and they sell the cable end-links too!

[Canadian818]

I've been updating this thread more so my videos are just a little behind. In this one I button up the engine, flush my oil coolers, finish up the flat floor under the engine, and fab a panel to seal the intake from the turbo/engine. Jump to 18:15 for a laugh if you're not interested in watching it all.




Please Subscribe
https://youtu.be/br3RqnWbzmM

[Canadian818]

Continuity is a little off as you all know my engine is in and so is the 6mt. I cover the frame modifications required to fit the 6 speed in this video, next video will cover my DIY of converting it to 2wd.




Did you Subscribe yet?
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UClP...WJbWScfpuzsCGg

[Canadian818]

Rear brake and hub mods are coming together. Still have some work left on the brackets, I gotta add a flange for the hub, and of course a bunch of welding. But it’s coming along nicely, spring is right around the corner and this is the last modification required to make it driveable.

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[Hobby Racer]

I wish mine was that close to being drive able

I would be careful about welding directly on the hub that close to the bearing location. The casting will most likely distort slightly from the heat and make the bearing hole out of round. You may need to precision bore / hone out the hubs afterward.

[Canadian818]

I wish mine was that close to being drive able

I would be careful about welding directly on the hub that close to the bearing location. The casting will most likely distort slightly from the heat and make the bearing hole out of round. You may need to precision bore / hone out the hubs afterward.

I know it’s hard to tell from that picture but I’m using bolt on STI front hubs that fit in a piece that will be welded after. This is a base model knuckle that was opened up to accommodate the STI axle. No part of the old assembly bore is relevant anymore. I’ll detach the new hub bore and flange before welding the caliper mount and then weld it on after. While it’s a “bolt on” hub, it’s still a slight press fit.

[Canadian818]

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Really dragging my feet on my knuckle modifications. Almost done! Lots of care needed when welding to cast, pre/post heating, peening, and slow cooling. I’m using some dye penetrant to check for hairline cracks. No cracks, but found a few pinholes that could be a future starting point for a crack. Need to grind them out and weld them up and then I can start assembly. Unfortunately my rotors won’t be here until I head away for work again, but hopefully I’ll have these done and mounted before I leave so it’s only fitting the rotors and calipers left.

[Hobby Racer]

Welding cast iron, especially old, greasy cast is a real challenge. Looks good!

[Canadian818]

Finally edited this video. Filmed in January, lol. Car is all back together now, got a few days off so I'll start breaking in and tuning the new engine. Wish me luck!




Did you Subscribe yet?
https://youtu.be/wMs_Us4hn00

[Frank818]

Oh yeah! Finally seeing some progress! It's really good, but... January? lollll
We all understand how much time working on these beasts take and video editing/posting isn't priority. Unless you teach your wife how to do it. Could you?

So, when should we expect a street or track video of you driving those massive rubbers?


Hey Adam, how does your fuel and timing look like on that 13B? How rich are you running, how low or high timing is it running?

[Canadian818]

Haha, no the wife couldn’t be bothered.

I have a first start video filmed, and now that it’s all back together I’m just working on the tuning. Might take it for a drive tomorrow.

Rotaries don’t like timing, so that’s quite conservative, and AFR’s are rich. Under full beans it’ll be 10.5-11:1

[Frank818]

Holly crap! 10.5-11! Is it fouling plugs after a while?
No wonder why the RX7 and RX8 always were thirsty engines. Well, better have a couple of runs before Trudeau decides to ban combustion engines. lolll

[Canadian818]

Holly crap! 10.5-11! Is it fouling plugs after a while?
No wonder why the RX7 and RX8 always were thirsty engines. Well, better have a couple of runs before Trudeau decides to ban combustion engines. lolll

A lot of that is for cooling, but mostly detonation protection. Most tuners don’t use knock sensors cause once you can detect it, it’s too late.

And don’t get me started on that guy.

[Canadian818]

Long time without update. Plan to do a video catching up on some progress but I weighed my car today and wanted to share the results. Surprised at just how heavy it is. I know the 6 speed added 100lbs, and my wheels/tires add a fair bit, and also 3/4 tank of fuel, but still more than I expected. CEEC9FC2-05C7-404D-A0A8-6B4FB7D10DE2.jpeg

[FFRWRX]

So it isn't an 818.......it's a 1023.

[Canadian818]

Once again I’m waaaaay late editing a video, but it’s more about documenting the build then keeping anyone else’s attention. There’s a teaser at the end that you won’t want to miss!!!





https://youtu.be/cSiC_uif6LA

[Sgt.Gator]

Long time without update. Plan to do a video catching up on some progress but I weighed my car today and wanted to share the results. Surprised at just how heavy it is. I know the 6 speed added 100lbs, and my wheels/tires add a fair bit, and also 3/4 tank of fuel, but still more than I expected. CEEC9FC2-05C7-404D-A0A8-6B4FB7D10DE2.jpeg

It is surprisingly heavy. Heavier even than mine with a halo cage. Is this without a driver in the seat?

I've added your data to the Post Your Weights thread. let me know if I need to edit it. Thanks.

[Canadian818]

It is surprisingly heavy. Heavier even than mine with a halo cage. Is this without a driver in the seat?

I've added your data to the Post Your Weights thread. let me know if I need to edit it. Thanks.

This is without driver.

[Frank818]

Oh wow, 1023kg? I am at 1040, how can it be so close to a heavy VR6 with G50...
You don't have any idea what makes it fatter than expected?

[Canadian818]

Hey Frank, the 6mt is 70lbs more than a 5mt and I doubt the g50 weighs any less then the 6mt at 163lbs dry. Also while a rotary is in fact a small package it isn’t lighter than the ej25. I have a large rad, and two large oil coolers with 30ft of -10 oil line all full (7-8L of oil). Three fuel pumps. The turbo is 30lbs. The extra body work making it widebody. Sound deadening on the entire floor and all 4 wheel wells. 13” vented rotors front and back. And my wheels/tires are particularly heavy, the rear wheels are 27lbs each! (Something I hope to remedy in the near future)

It's definitely heavier then I expected, but it’s not hard to account for it all.

[Frank818]

The turbo is 30mins.

You got a 30-minutes turbo? How does it work, after 30mins it gets heavier? LOOLLLLL

I am impressed about the 6mt, the G50 is 153lbs dry, that's still 10 pounds less than the 6mt!
And all the other stuff you added above makes a lot of sense... It takes what it takes to get your car where you wanted (which is pretty darn far!), I believe the weight is the compromise most of us did. In the end it's still lighter than a Lotus, so we're good.

27lbs for the rear wheels, you probably mean 27lbs for the RIM alone. It's a wide rim!

So... you driving it more often, now?

[Canadian818]

You got a 30-minutes turbo? How does it work, after 30mins it gets heavier? LOOLLLLL

I am impressed about the 6mt, the G50 is 153lbs dry, that's still 10 pounds less than the 6mt!
And all the other stuff you added above makes a lot of sense... It takes what it takes to get your car where you wanted (which is pretty darn far!), I believe the weight is the compromise most of us did. In the end it's still lighter than a Lotus, so we're good.

27lbs for the rear wheels, you probably mean 27lbs for the RIM alone. It's a wide rim!

So... you driving it more often, now?

Haha, yeah the turbo is 30lbs, lol.

And yes each rear wheel is 27lbs, the wheel and tire combined are 60lbs!

I’ve been driving it, slowly tinkering with the tune and at the same time learning more and more about tuning. At the same time I’ve been tracking my rx8 and improving my driving skills prior to tracking this little monster. With any luck I’ll be tuned well enough for the track in the next month and then start testing there. At some point I’d like to get it on a dyno, but that can wait until later in the fall when the track is closed.