Oh, yea!
It drives.
It drives quickly.
Now for the body.
IMG_9469 sm.jpg
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Oh, yea!
It drives.
It drives quickly.
Now for the body.
IMG_9469 sm.jpg
Awesome... congrats!
So how loud is the straight pipe... You want a muffler yet?
The straight pipe is not loud at all at idle. It does get too loud above 3k. It sounds good, but just too loud. I have a muffler, but am waiting on the body to be installed to know where to cut the pipe.
Looking great!
That's similar to what I did, but I already mounted a Flowmaster Super 10. I'll trim my tailpipe after to body is on.
It's a tiny can, so I expect it to be loud, but hope it's a reasonable loud.
Yea Matt! Rematch at AutoX
Hurry up
We had to get creative to fit our needs for a cat/resonator (V-bands, easy swap) and a muffler so we felt confident that we'd pass sound tech at some local auto-x events.
-Andrew
Building 818S/R #297 with Tamra
08 Mazdaspeed3 | '12 F800R | '97 Miata
I have a built in muffler.
What ended up being your idle problem? Glad to see you got it up and running!
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You were right. An intake leak. I unplugged that MAF sensor and it ran much better. I then pressurized the intake and I could hear the air leaking out between the TGV and intake manifold. Ordered new gaskets and all should be fine now.
I really appreciate the advise you provided.
While pressurizing the intake may point out leaks (under pressure) it is not the same as testing it under a vacuum. It's unnatural for how it performs. There are methods for finding leaks that are more relevant. Spraying some fluids around intake joints or potential leak paths will raise the RPM if there is a leak. I'd look into that approach.
V-bands are great for when you need to swap out exhaust parts.
"Scotty, give me all the TRACTION she's got!" Pictures of what I drive till 818R is finished
Track Car Journal on IWSTI (with build info)
experimenting with video
https://plus.google.com/111981428899...ts/PCrcn6t3v4g
I'm building the car in my shed which is down a gravel path. I couldn't take the risk of trying to drive the car up the gravel path as its first test drive. We pulled it up with the tractor, and my son, age 10, is technically the first person to drive our 818. Father-in-law helped with steering directions. I think they did 12 zig-zags in 75 feet
818 first drive sm.JPG818 go cart 3 sm.JPG818 go cart 4 sm.JPG
Congrats on the milestone! That first photo with the smiling first driver is a keeper!
818S/C : Chassis #25 with 06 WRX 2.5 turbo, ABS, cruise, PS, A/C, Apple CarPlay, rear camera, power windows & locks, leather & other complexities. Sold 10/19 with 5,800 miles.
Mk3 Roadster #6228 4.6L, T45, IRS, PS, PB, ABS, Cruise, Koni's, 17" Halibrands, red w/ silver - 9K miles then sold @ Barrett-Jackson Jan 2011 (got back cash spent).
I also customized my tranny block-off plate (satin black powdercoat and laser etched logo), but didn't think of putting the chassis number on. Nice touch!
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By that reasoning, my wife was the first to 'drive' mine... When I brought mine home recently, she steered while my friend and I rolled off the flatbed into my garage.
This was at K1 speed when Mechie visited San Diego. Mechie in front, followed by Brando, and finally me. Not to brag too much, but, the last of three races we placed the reverse of the picture below.
full disclosure: I was slowest for the first two races.
K1 speed.JPG
Yeah...I had problems the last race. Some of them came in the form of slow driving females that stop mid turn so I get a warning flag.
Your house looks to be out of the way. That's nice!
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Last edited by Tamra; 02-24-2015 at 02:45 PM.
Tamra
Building 818SR #297 picked up 10/25/14 with Andrew (xxguitarist)
First start 12/21/14, First "drive" 1/17/15
First Dyno at EFI Logics 3/7/15- 310whp at 15psi for break in, full spool by ~3500rpm!
First autocross 3/29/15
1st Registered 818 in Connecticut 7/24/2015. 9 months - 1 day from kit pickup!
Maybe in karts, not in F500 I'm ok at karts. I do better (much much better) in my F500. I have several driving quirks that work well in F500 that hinder me in karts. I didn't mean to imply all girls are slow drivers, just in this particular race there were a couple that would hit the brakes in the middle of a full throttle zone. You'd be 6" behind trying not to hit them them when they hit the brakes "BAM!" and then the track officials get mad at you for hitting them but not mad at them for being stupid. It was close to closing time and they tried to cram too many people into 1 race.
edit: There was also a guy that was doing something similar, tapping his brakes right at the apex. At least he didn't do a full on stop in the middle of a turn.
Last edited by Mechie3; 02-25-2015 at 08:59 AM.
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I took it to a trophy shop and they did the laser etch really cheap for me; the laser blows off the powder coat and etches a matte white finish into the aluminum. I'd think the powdercoat should hold up fine down there, but wear and tear is why I went with this process rather than a vinyl logo or paint.
I'm not going to let her know that; she'll never let me get over it. I will be first to press the throttle, though!
Matt's location says Ramona, about 15 miles inland from where I am. From the photos, I'd guess he's off Highland Valley Rd, north of Mount Woodsen... some nice property out there, and up and coming wine country... Matt, you ever try to grow any grapes?
Last edited by wleehendrick; 02-24-2015 at 06:10 PM.
let's see some more pictures of that shift linkage!
A well stocked beverage fridge is the key to any successful project.
Why do I get such satisfaction out of building stuff that are such low priorities?
I made a recessed license plate holder like Aloha did on his black 818. But I did it with what tools I had available. First designed it on sollidworks, then made a 3-d print of it. Tonight I roughed it in. I really like how its going to look.
It has some function too. The plate illumination lights are tucked in so you can't see them. The sides of the plate are vented to help keep engine compartment cooler.
I think I'll just clear coat the exposed side, and then reinforce the inside with some fiberglass. I'll use the same FFR mesh for the vents. From far away it looks regular black, but closer up you can see all the layer marks from the 3-d printer.
IMG_9641.JPG
IMG_9642.JPG
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Great job Matt, I like it.
Michael and I were discussing something like this at dinner tonight. With the rear radiator we are going to vent most of the top section.
Bob
818S #22 Candy Blue Frame, Front Gas Tank, 2.5L Turbo, Rear radiator, Shortened Transmission, Wookiee Compatible, Console mounted MR2 Shifter, Custom ECU panel, AWIC soon
My Son Michael's Turbo ICE Build X22 http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...rts-818S-Build
My Electric Supercar Build X21 (on hold until winter) http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-Build-Thread
Thanks Bob!
I should now put some more attention into the hood, fender, bumper, windshield alignment.
IMG_9636.JPG
Definitely looks more OEM.
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Very nice job on the license plate, looks great
-Steve
I was going to have two sets of wheels. The stock 2006 WRX painted black, then some craigslist xxr wheels that have a 114.3 B.C. I could run hub spacers to get the WRX wheels out the needed distance to match the fenders. I could run different adapter/spacers to get the XXR wheels to match the rear fenders. But it looks like the front XXR wheels will stick out too far with the 1” adapters. It looks like it needs to be about a full 1” in.
So, how about I put on FRONT STI spindles & hubs? This would let me bolt on the 114.3 XXR wheels directly on the hub. This should put the spacing just about right for the front. For the rear I’ll stick with the adapter/spacer on the WRX hubs. I will not be able to use my 06 WRX wheels any longer, and that is no big loss.
As I understand it; I will have to get front STI spindles, front STI rotors, and modify the FFR suspension piece that goes to the upper ball joint.
The STI uses a bolt on unit bearing so changing out studs will be super easy. The ABS should still bolt right up (I think). The red 4-pot 06 WRX brake calipers should bolt up. I don’t think I’ll have to run the outer CV to hold bearings in place (right?) due to the different bearing design.
Now what STI years can I use? ‘06-‘07? Or ‘05-‘13?
Last weekend was the first time I had all of the body on. It's not all mounted yet, but getting closer. Has anyone noticed how much harder it is to work on the engine with the body installed? And when installing the side panels on correctly, it will not come off easily. I will try to use riv-nuts where ever possible.
IMG_9791.JPGIMG_9780.JPGIMG_9779.JPG
I took off my rear bumper to test fit the AJW exhaust and realized how much easier it was to simply step "inside" and work on my AWIC mounts. You can definitely use 05-07 STI uprights. Not too familiar with the GR setups (08-14).
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I don't know if all aftermarket steering wheels have the same copper ring for the horn, but here is how we fixed it.
We used a carbon brush from McMaster, #65705K29, and a 3-D printed housing. The 3-D part fits snugly into the Subaru plastic piece just behind the steering wheel. Its held in with a little epoxy, but I think it will stay there with nothing.
(Its the RED part)
horn2.JPG horn.JPG
I tried to match the logo on the STI heat exchanger. What do you think? I'll put one on the intercooler too.
image.jpg
I received the 07 STI knuckles and rotors I ordered. I read that I should be fine with my 4pot red WRX calipers on STI hubs and rotors. The new STI rotors are huge and THICK. About 30mm thick. The stock WRX rotors are about 25mm(?) thick. I just got all the stuff in last night, and have not had a chance to install it, but It looks like the new rotors will not fit in the old calipers. How do I fix this?
I see my options as, getting the STI Brembo brake calipers or finding a rotor that will work on 5x114 circle but fit the STI hub.
Or maybe they will fit?
IMG_9965.JPG IMG_9963.JPG IMG_9964.JPG IMG_9961.JPG
I did finish my rear emblem and exhaust.
IMG_9968.JPG IMG_9966.JPG
I would look at the diameter you need for the four-pots you have and go from there. I would look at Girodisc or Stoptech and two-piece floating rotors. Those stock rotors are crazy heavy.
"Scotty, give me all the TRACTION she's got!" Pictures of what I drive till 818R is finished
Track Car Journal on IWSTI (with build info)
Scargo, I'll have to call these places tomorrow, as I can't find anything online. Its all standard fitment stuff.
I've started to install the new stuff to see what it's like. The FFR knuckle bolt on extension "IFS Bracket" (on page 83) is actually a close fit with one welded on plate removed.
The WRX knuckle upper piece is .99" wide,
The STI is 1.19" wide.
Thats a difference of ~.2"
The FFR is very close to .99" wide.
Each inner plate to the "IFS bracket" is ~.120" thick
Is it better to remove one plate and have a little more caster and bend out the bracket ~.02" or remove both plates and squish the bracket down ~.1" ?
I'll remove .02" of material from the inside to make it fit better.
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And, I bought two different years STI knuckles. One has a large chunk of metal cast into it and one does not.
What about replicating the inner plate out of thinner shim stock, or maybe some washers? That way there's no need to bend the bracket and you still get a tight fit around the knuckle. As far as the brakes, I'd just buy brembos and sell the 4-pots. You'll end up losing some money buy won't have to deal with the rotors.
The one with the red is the 04 sti (knuckles have the same part # for all impreza that year) and the bottom one with the bolts on back is the 05-07 sti with better wheel bearings.