2015 Coyote Control Pack

[edwardb]

I did a terrible job explaining that and had it hooked up according to the instructions originally. But to provide a bit more background on the yellow wire; with the lead 16 (yellow) not hooked to anything at all, simply hanging off of the control pack connection, these are the results I get.

With the key in the On position, there is 12v coming from the yellow wire. This is what throws me as there is 12v coming back through the PDB to the Yellow wire. With the Ford Racing instructions, I understood it that the key/ignition would provide power to the yellow wire, not the other way around.

When the key is in ACC, there is power at the ignition but not 12v on the yellow wire. Thus the ignition switch is now providing the 12v to the yellow wire.

So with that being said, if the yellow wire is hooked to ACC, the PCM/PDB sees 12v at the yellow lead whether in ACC or On.

Your explanation was OK. I understood that aspect, but limited my comments to wondering why the yellow wire had to be disconnected vs. having the switch in the off position. I agree the instructions from Ford Racing seem to say that the key/ignition switch is providing the 12 volts to the yellow wire vs. the other way around. The fact that you can measure 12 volts on the yellow wire from the PCM could be normal and maybe very low current. Or it could be an indication of something else. I certainly don't know. For me the main question remains what is the purpose of the yellow wire? It's clearly not needed for the engine to run, witness your experience plus the instructions for setup A. Is there some reason the designers of this systems thought it was important for the PCM to "know" the ignition switch was in the ACC position? Maybe to not run the fuel pump or even the ignition system itself? At this point none of us knows, and frankly for these builds ACC isn't that important. I rarely if ever use it on my other builds, plus I'm planning to have an under dash fuel pump switch and maybe even an ignition cut-off switch. For security purposes plus there are times you have the key on and just don't want those things running, e.g. during construction, troubleshooting, etc. I'm not going to call Ford Racing support about this question alone, but if I need to call them about something else will probably ask.

Separate questions. Just curious. Did you do any kind of oil priming step before your first start? Also, were you able to figure out a way to tap one of the coil wires and get your tach running?

[2bking]

Separate questions. Just curious. Did you do any kind of oil priming step before your first start?

I didn't on mine. It's run at the factory so it has oil everywhere. My first start was actually while spinning the motor with fuel pump disconnected to get oil pressure. The residual fuel pressure was enough to bring it to life and the oil pressure came up before I could hit the off button.

[jcjorgensen]

Separate questions. Just curious. Did you do any kind of oil priming step before your first start? Also, were you able to figure out a way to tap one of the coil wires and get your tach running?

I took the same route King did. I was actually surprised it shipped with oil and then my first step was to drain it all out to replace the pan! I researched different ways to try to prime it but in the end just cranked the engine over prior to hooking up the fuel lines. Pressure came up quickly so I proceeded forward.

As for the tach I didn't have any luck. I have the Autometer Ultra-Lites and used your suggestion on tying into the #7 cylinder. The tach needle would just bounce around at ~500 RPM regardless of what the engine was doing. I have the Autometer tach adapter on order and will see if that helps.
https://www.autometer.com/media/2650-561X.pdf

[jcjorgensen]

It has been a while since I have updated the thread. I am now registered and have put about 100 miles on it. Removed the body yesterday to finish up a couple of loose ends and begin to check all the nuts and bolts to insure nothing is backing off. Not sure how most do it but even though I am registered, all my sheet metal is still cleco'd and the wiring wasn't complete. So the body is off so I can begin to complete it before off to paint.

So, the control pack. Two things to update.

1. The clutch bottom switch (CBT) page 4 of the control pack install guide. https://performanceparts.ford.com/do...-6017-504V.pdf I didn't final install this but to enable getting this switch to work for me to start the engine, I ended up taking the upper portion (the portion where the plug inserts into the switch) and just installing it 180 deg or clocked in an 180 deg in relation to its original orientation. That worked to date but did notice while sitting at a stop light, if you counted to about 7, the engine RPM would raise about 100 rpm and stay that way until you took off. I believe this makes sense, the PCM is seeing the CBT or clutch depressed all the time while the CTT (clutch top switch) stays open, signaling that the clutch is never depressed. Imagine this is confusing the PCM. So while the body is off I am converting to a signal switch and using another brake light switch configured to provide the open/closed signal to the PCM. Will report out if that fixes the high idle after sitting phenomenon. Since I am converting two switches to one, thus raising the resistance would drop the current so relatively confident I will not damage anything in the PCM. Fingers crossed!!

2. The second issue I ran across. My tach hasn't worked since day one. I used edwardB's recommendation to connect to the #7 cylinder. To enable my Ultra-Lite tach to work, I had to purchase the autometer tach adapter. http://www.autometer.com/tach-adapter.html Once I purchased this and hooked up to the #7 cylinder, it did not read while hooked to the yellow COP wire. I actually had to hook it up to the purple wire going to #7. Still want to do some more troubleshooting as the tach needle bounces more than I would like to see.

Hope this helps those installing the new control pack.

[edwardb]

It has been a while since I have updated the thread. I am now registered and have put about 100 miles on it. Removed the body yesterday to finish up a couple of loose ends and begin to check all the nuts and bolts to insure nothing is backing off. Not sure how most do it but even though I am registered, all my sheet metal is still cleco'd and the wiring wasn't complete. So the body is off so I can begin to complete it before off to paint.

So, the control pack. Two things to update.

1. The clutch bottom switch (CBT) page 4 of the control pack install guide. https://performanceparts.ford.com/do...-6017-504V.pdf I didn't final install this but to enable getting this switch to work for me to start the engine, I ended up taking the upper portion (the portion where the plug inserts into the switch) and just installing it 180 deg or clocked in an 180 deg in relation to its original orientation. That worked to date but did notice while sitting at a stop light, if you counted to about 7, the engine RPM would raise about 100 rpm and stay that way until you took off. I believe this makes sense, the PCM is seeing the CBT or clutch depressed all the time while the CTT (clutch top switch) stays open, signaling that the clutch is never depressed. Imagine this is confusing the PCM. So while the body is off I am converting to a signal switch and using another brake light switch configured to provide the open/closed signal to the PCM. Will report out if that fixes the high idle after sitting phenomenon. Since I am converting two switches to one, thus raising the resistance would drop the current so relatively confident I will not damage anything in the PCM. Fingers crossed!!

2. The second issue I ran across. My tach hasn't worked since day one. I used edwardB's recommendation to connect to the #7 cylinder. To enable my Ultra-Lite tach to work, I had to purchase the autometer tach adapter. http://www.autometer.com/tach-adapter.html Once I purchased this and hooked up to the #7 cylinder, it did not read while hooked to the yellow COP wire. I actually had to hook it up to the purple wire going to #7. Still want to do some more troubleshooting as the tach needle bounces more than I would like to see.

Hope this helps those installing the new control pack.

Thanks for the update. Good to hear a 2015 Coyote is running and working. Comments about your two points:

1. I'm not 100% clear about what you're describing. Sounds like you rigged the clutch bottom switch to be always closed? It does have to be closed in order for the PCM to allow a start. But still closed while the clutch top switch is open (meaning the clutch not pressed down) isn't normal so you're guessing this is confusing the PCM? Could be. I'm not getting your two switches in one comments. Simple question. Why not wire the switches the way they're supposed to work? That's what I'm planning to do. I already have a top switch installed using a similar bracket and switch as the FF recommended brake light installation. I haven't done it yet, but planning to rig up a bottom switch that actuates when the clutch pedal is depressed. I'm not sure the Ford supplied switch will be best, and it's quite large and oddly shaped. I'm thinking of using a pretty normal roller micro switch rigged into the Wilwood pedal box. Still TBD. Comments?

2. According to the Speedhut instructions, I only need a single wire for the tach, and it has to be the signal one (yellow in the case of #7) and not the common one (orange). Obviously I'm hopeful it works as they describe. Sounds like Autometer is quite different.

[jcjorgensen]

Thanks for the update. Good to hear a 2015 Coyote is running and working. Comments about your two points:

1. I'm not 100% clear about what you're describing. Sounds like you rigged the clutch bottom switch to be always closed? It does have to be closed in order for the PCM to allow a start. But still closed while the clutch top switch is open (meaning the clutch not pressed down) isn't normal so you're guessing this is confusing the PCM? Could be. I'm not geeting your two switches in one comments. Simple question. Why not wire the switches the way they're supposed to work? That's what I'm planning to do. I already have a top switch installed using a similar bracket and switch as the FF recommended brake light installation. I haven't done it yet, but planning to rig up a bottom switch that actuates when the clutch pedal is depressed. I'm not sure the Ford supplied switch will be best, and it's quite large and oddly shaped. I'm thinking of using a pretty normal roller micro switch rigged into the Wilwood pedal box. Still TBD. Comments?

2. According to the Speedhut instructions, I only need a single wire for the tach, and it has to be the signal one (yellow in the case of #7) and not the common one (orange). Obviously I'm hopeful it works as they describe. Sounds like Autometer is quite different.

Great comments.

1. On the two clutch switches, I have gone back and forth for several months trying to determine the best way to configure them. What I don't understand is why the need for both switches to perform the same task. Both are normally open and as I read it (for the hundredth time it seems) they both close when the clutch is depressed. I have played around with trying to mount them but two things have me concerned. They are both rather bulky and don't lend themselves to easy mounting but it can be done. Second is that I want to mount them from below so that better access is available in the future. So I played around with mounting both of them below in a similar fashion to how the brake light switch is mounted. During that process I got the idea of just using a brake light switch and combining the electrical leads so one switch is used in lieu of two. Jury is out on whether this will be a good idea or not. I did get it mounted, started the engine and everything acts as it should. Engine will not start without the clutch depressed, regardless of how the RF harness is configured. Since the body is off, I have not figured out whether it fixes the high idle phenomenon at a stop light. Will post more in a couple of weeks once I have the interior finalized and body back together.

2. The Autometer Ultra Lite tach only needs a single wire to provide the signal as well. On my #7 cylinder, I had a yellow and a purple wire for the COP and did not see an orange. I tried hooking my tach up to both wires and only received the signal from the purple wire. Not sure how the Speedhut works and my Autometer would not work without the additional tach adapter box, also from Autometer. In this case I believe the different brands leads to different solutions so I wanted to provide what worked for me. Hopefully you don't run into any issues.

[edwardb]

On the two clutch switches, I have gone back and forth for several months trying to determine the best way to configure them. What I don't understand is why the need for both switches to perform the same task. Both are normally open and as I read it (for the hundredth time it seems) they both close when the clutch is depressed.

That's partly true. But actually the top switch would close with just the slightest clutch movement, while the bottom switch wouldn't close until the clutch is all the way down. From a safety standpoint, makes sense the bottom switch would be used as a starter interlock, e.g. when the clutch is fully depressed. But regarding the two working together, I think it's likely the designers want to differentiate between the two clutch positions. When I asked Ford Racing tech support about whether the speed dial was needed for the new 2015 control pack, they responded no and said hardware and software changes had been made to solve the idle/stall issue of the previous crate control pack. He specifically cited the clutch switches as part of that solution. My takeaway is to figure out a way to make them work as designed. I'll be interested in what you come up with, and how it affects the engine's running characteristics.