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Thread: Sbhunter’s coyote build

  1. #81

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    Full disclosure. I have a fork lift that I use as an engine hoist. The stand is just for storage until install. I bolted the stand to the engine while it was hanging. I just snugged the bolts up enough to prevent movement. I took it off yesterday and dropped it in my car for first test fitting. There was no evidence it had been on there. No marks or mars at all. You would definitely have more room to change the pan the higher it’s off the ground. I was just saying it’s possible on the stand with a little extra ground clearance.
    MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
    17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
    overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry

  2. #82

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    Engine is in!!..temporarily

    The forklift makes a great engine hoist but I had to come in from the side for clearance. This actually worked out to be an advantage because I could move the engine back and forth with it while rolling the dolly to move the engine front to rear.



    Anyone that says this motor isn't big hasn't stuffed it in this hole yet. It did fit with no issues. The panels are form fitted around it like they were made for it, huh.





    I was already planning on relocating the first section of rear brake line to inside the DS footwell and come out at the bottom to follow the 4" round tube back but this confirms that the face of the DS panel is not a good place for fluid filled lines.



    I have the midshift conversion from Forte installed and there was interference in the tunnel in the usual place. I have cut out a section and will weld in a piece of 3/4 tubing beside it.



    I was able to get my pinion and driveshaft angles set and made a transmission spacer for final install. I used the TREMEC app on my iPhone to set these angles but double checked them when I had it the way I wanted it. Anyone who still needs to setup their driveshaft needs to download this app. It makes it really easy to check adjustments in angles.
    Last edited by sbhunter; 02-23-2018 at 07:49 PM.
    MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
    17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
    overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry

  3. #83
    lewma's Avatar
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    That's cheating using a forklift

    Looks great!!
    Mk4 Complete Kit #9312 ordered 1/27/18, Delivered 3/24/18 - Coyote, IRS, Power Steering, Wilwood Brakes, 17" Halibrand

  4. #84
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    Ok, glad to know the heads wont get messed up on the stand. I talked to Dan at FFR today and he confirmed thats how the engine should sit in it, however I guess the tabs you mention and the diagram were misplaced so he sent those out today, waiting another week for them to arrive. Dan said those tabs mount to the transmission somewhere and then mount to the rear crossbrace to provide support for the transmission so its not just the engine holding all the weight. I wish I had a forklift and the space apparently you have, bet that makes organization and storage so much easier! Wish I could say I was as far along as you but I just got the body off and panels marked and taken off last weekend. I wasnt a big fan of the rivets FFR sent so Im waiting on a sample pack to come in from Hanson Rivet to see if those will work better. Once I get the rivets picked and stocked up I think Ill be good to start moving ahead. Hows your back order list coming along? I'm only missing 2 more items; lemans cap and fuel pressure regulator and hoses...

  5. #85

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    I am missing the same 2 items!! I am using the fixed pressure regulator at the tank that I have discussed on the roadster page and I won’t need the fuel cap till final assembly so I’m moving forward. Big shops are great if you can limit the projects. I have a tractor in, my dad is building a sailboat, and my sons are constantly working on something. Keeping tools and parts located and sorted is a constant battle.
    MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
    17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
    overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry

  6. #86

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    lewma, my forklift is a best buy ever. It’s like having an extra set of hands. I use it every day to do something. It’s a 78 Hyster and was built in Danville, IL which is 13 miles from my house. I’ve had it for 20 years and haven’t spent $50 on parts yet.
    MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
    17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
    overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry

  7. #87
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    Hah, yeah I think Im going to do the returnless fuel line option from Mark on his Breeze site. Yeah I can imagine your shop being quite upended with all that traffic, best of luck to ya! Im still here waiting for my account to get unlocked so I can edit my profile and start posting my build as well. I feel now that its here sitting in the garage its going to take a lot longer than I expected. I just checked my number on my car and I'm #9252, I still think thats funny our cars rode together. As soon as my account is unlocked I can load all the details of my order...in hindsight I wish I would have just gotten the Wilwoods but thats an easy upgrade later on if I feel I need it. However I was originally looking for the Bullitt style wheels like you got but got too frustrated trying to find the right backspacing and sizing requirements that I just bit the bullet and got the wheel/tire package from FFR...oh well

  8. #88
    Mark Eaton's Avatar
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    Just downloaded the Tremec app on my iPhone, thanks for the heads up!
    MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017.
    DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread

  9. #89
    Straversi's Avatar
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    My Moroso pan leaked from the side plug and the drain plug. Both fixable, but now is a good time to put a couple quarts of oil in and check for leaks.
    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  10. #90

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    I saved the oil when I changed my pan and poured it right back in. Haven’t had a drip yet. I have read of others leaking which is partially why I did that.
    MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
    17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
    overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry

  11. #91

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    odds and ends

    I got all the measurements and checks I needed with the motor in done and recorded. I removed the motor and commenced modifying the frame some more. I welded in a piece of 3/4" square tube where I had cut out a section to clear the midshift. I welded 2 bolts on that will be the bracket for the Lokar parking brake handle.



    This is the final install of the fuel tank. That is the Breeze high flow vent on top. The Breeze high flow return is in the middle since I installed a 255 pump. I will plug off the 1/4" return.



    I used spare hose to seal up the resevoir feed lines. A 2" section of 1" ID hose fit tightly into the predrilled hole and I was just able to pull the 3 resevoir lines through. I filled the gaps with silicone. I used a piece of the 1/4" fuel line to sleeve the front brake line to protect it from abrasion. I did the same on the bottom of the foot box where the rear line passes through.



    I got my seat frames back from the powdercoater. They look great. I realize that most of it will be covered but the sides and part of the back will be visible after the cover is reinstalled. I ordered tires yesterday. I decided to be practical and went with the Nitto NT555 G2 . The fronts are 255/40R17 and rears 315/35R17. As much as I would love to spend most of my time on a track, more than likely a high percent of the miles will be on the road.

    MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
    17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
    overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry

  12. #92


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    Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    Coming along nicely Scott!

    Jeff

  13. #93

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    fuel lines and parking brake

    Fuel lines are completed. I ran 3/8" to the front and decided to put the connection right behind the fuel rail inlet for the Coyote. I finished the connections on the filter/regulator and got it mounted.





    I powder coated the Lokar parking brake handle and installed it. 3 clicks and it is locked. I really like how this turned out. I used longer bolts so that I can adjust position sided to side with washers and double nut.



    MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
    17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
    overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry

  14. #94

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    Coyote is home

    I have not taken any pics lately. I haven’t done anything different or unique but have made advances. After completing the fuel and brake lines, I went ahead and laid in the RF harness and locked it down from the firewall back. I may have jumped the gun but I went ahead and riveted in all the trunk panels. Hopefully it doesn’t bite me later. I routed all the wiring that lays under the motor and made sure it would reach the correct positions. Once that was done I couldn’t think of any reason not to drop the motor in for good. The only reason I might need to raise it out of the mounts would be to assist getting the header bolts in. The headers are currently being ceramic coated inside and out so I wasn’t able to install them while I lowered the engine as some have suggested. I bled the brakes and clutch with no leaks and a good hard peddle. I used the pressure cap for the CNC reservoirs and it worked fantastic. Unfortunately, I proved what many have written about already. I currently have a 3/4” master and 3/4” slave for the clutch. There was not enough throw even with all slack out of the system. The clutch disengaged one inch from the floor. I will order a 7/8” master and replace it. I am wading my way through the wiring now. It is overwhelming when I look at the whole but manageable if I focus on one area at a time.
    MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
    17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
    overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry

  15. #95

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    Oil pressure senders?

    My frustration with myself and the wiring is ongoing. In preparation for putting the coyote in, for hopefully final time, I had removed the coyote sender and installed the ffr supplied oil pressure sender. I just happened to catch edwardb’s response to a wiring question. He stated that the sender needs to be tee’d in with the original as the coyote harness uses the original sender for pressure if I am interpreting that correctly. The fact that I continue to miss things like this really concerns me. I feel like I am understanding the multiple sets of instructions but I keep making mistakes like this. Now I’m going to be working in a hole to redo what I’ve screwed up.
    Last edited by sbhunter; 03-10-2018 at 08:04 AM.
    MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
    17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
    overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry

  16. #96

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    Question on oil pressure senders. I have the latest version of the coyote wiring and RF harness instruction as far as I can tell. It clearly states to remove the coyote oil pressure plug and sensor and that they will not be used. The instructions show it both tee’d in and removed depending on pic. Later, the manual references a low oil pressure shut down, which appears to be the removed sensor. I’m assuming edwardb is correct as his research and knowledge far exceeds mine. Please confirm one way or the other someone. This is a gen2 coyote
    MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
    17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
    overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry

  17. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by sbhunter View Post
    Question on oil pressure senders. I have the latest version of the coyote wiring and RF harness instruction as far as I can tell. It clearly states to remove the coyote oil pressure plug and sensor and that they will not be used. The instructions show it both tee’d in and removed depending on pic. Later, the manual references a low oil pressure shut down, which appears to be the removed sensor. I’m assuming edwardb is correct as his research and knowledge far exceeds mine. Please confirm one way or the other someone. This is a gen2 coyote
    OK. Looking at the most recent instructions on the FF website, you're right. It does say remove the OE Coyote oil pressure sender and replace with the Speedhut one. That's different than what it said when I did mine with a tee connection, leaving the OE one and adding the Speedhut sender, and how I've responded when the question was asked. Also a bit confusing as you say because the tee connection is still pictured in the FF instructions. I suspect it's just fine without it. Apparently the OE sender is also only for the gauge display, and not needed since the Speedhut sender is all that's needed for gauges in our builds. FWIW, I just looked at the data log files used by the tuner on my Coyote. Of the nearly 40 data streams coming out of the computer, oil pressure isn't one of them. Apparently the computer doesn't monitor it either, which supports not needing the OE sender.

    The oil level sensor is in the oil pan. My 2015 Gen 2 had the sensor and wire, and I installed in the Moroso pan. I've heard, however, that this function is also disabled in the crate version, and isn't even included in later years. Moroso has a plug for that hole in the pan.
    Last edited by edwardb; 03-10-2018 at 08:51 AM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  18. #98

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    You are fantastic edwardb. The data log info is really good stuff. I can confirm that when I changed my pan that there was no sensor or wiring for oil monitoring in that area on a late 2017 motor.
    MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
    17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
    overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry

  19. #99


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    Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    I'm working on a Coyote powered car currently; no "T", only the Speedhut gauge sender.

    Jeff

  20. #100

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    wheels

    I FINALLY got my wheels from the powdercoater and got the tires mounted. I think they turned out fantastic. They are the standard issue American Racing wheel but I removed the paint with a media blaster and had them powder coated gloss black. I would have done them myself but I haven't built a larger oven yet.





    MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
    17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
    overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry

  21. #101

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    KRC pump

    This is the KRC pump/resevoir assembly installed on my Coyote engine. This is the kit that FFR is selling now.





    It really tucks into the head and valve cover nicely. The kit also includes 2 stainless braided lines premade.
    MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
    17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
    overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry

  22. #102


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    Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
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    I like the wheels Scott!

    The new pump and reservoir are really nice and tidy.

    Jeff

  23. #103
    Mark Eaton's Avatar
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    Scott, those wheels look great!

    Mark
    MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017.
    DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread

  24. #104

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    Failed goals and frustration

    When I took delivery in early January, I set a goal of go-cart by 4/1. It was ambitious yes but I thought I could do it. I quickly revised this to at least have the engine running by then. Neither has occurred. I work 3 days out of 9 as a career firefighter and am a grain farmer when I’m home. I do all my posting, reading and research in my down time at the fire station. Planting season is almost here and I’m going to have to throw a tarp over this project till June unfortunately. I’ve been installing field tile for a couple weeks and was prepping tillage tools Friday (50 degrees and sunny). Saturday was a full on blizzard with 8” of blowing snow. There aren’t very many trees left where I live and 8” of blowing snow = 4’ drifts on the county roads and my driveway. I spent all day plowing drives and makes rescue calls for accidents for the volunteer department I’m on. Sunday afternoon was 50 and sunny again. Gotta love spring in Indiana. I did get my 3/4” master switched out for a 7/8” master on the hyd clutch (3/4” slave). I now have the appropriate amount of throw, it is fully disengaged 2” from the stop, and am happy with the feel. The wiring has slowed me down but I’m slogging through it.
    Last edited by sbhunter; 03-26-2018 at 04:04 AM.
    MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
    17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
    overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry

  25. #105
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    Life does get in the way, eh? I'm over a year building. Did my first start in October and just now almost ready for go-kart. I didnt set any time goals... just said I'll take my time and what happens... happens.

    Dont let it frustrate you. She'll be waiting when you can get back to her.
    Thanks for your firefighter / rescue work.
    ---Boyd---
    MkIV #9042 build thread
    www.boss427.us
    Plan: 427W-X, TKO600, Moser 3.55 rear.
    Delivered Feb 2017, first start Oct 22, 2017, first go-cart Mar 26, 2018

  26. #106
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    Hang in there Scott. My build has slowed too due to a dead AC unit that is forcing the timeline on my house renovation. (It’s already warming up in Pensacola so the new AC has to go in soon!)

    Goals and timetables can help us gain focus, but they can also frustrate and rob us of the joy of the journey. It has taken me the better part of 30 years to recognize the pitfalls and begin to find some balance and enjoyment of the journey rather than just driving for the satisfaction of the accomplishment.

    Find your balance that keeps you moving, but don’t forget to relax, take some pressure off yourself, and enjoy the journey!

  27. #107
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    BTW — loving your build thread. Good stuff!

  28. #108
    Senior Member cgundermann's Avatar
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    Very cool wheels Scott!

    Chris
    MK4 Basic Kit #7404, 347 EFI - Pro M Racing ECM, 30# injectors, 70 mm throttle body, 80 mm MAF, Edelbrock Performer aluminum heads & RPM II intake, all new G-Force T5, 3:55 gears, Pro 5.0 shifter, 3-link, carbon fiber dash/custom Speedhut gauges and paint by Da Bat.

  29. #109

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    Drive shaft hoop

    I am always impressed by this forum. I took 2 months off to put crops in the ground and I'm pushed clear back to page 4!! I have just started to get back on my build. The last 2 days were mostly trying to remember where I had left off. I got my driveshaft hoop built. I had been wanting to make my own but struggling with what to use. I found this old hydraulic cylinder in one of my sheds.



    I used a plasma cutter to cut a 2" ring out.







    The brackets are welded on so that the bolts pass up through the frame members into a welded on nut for easy removal from under the car.



    MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
    17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
    overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry

  30. #110
    Straversi's Avatar
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    Well, now you know why you saved that old cylinder all this time. I never throw out anything either. Nicely done.
    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  31. #111
    Mark Eaton's Avatar
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    Now thats some fabrication! I really like the idea of welding the nut onto the chassis. And I'm sitting here trying to figure out how I have gotten this far in my life without a plasma cutter...
    MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017.
    DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread

  32. #112

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    Wiring and plumbing

    I don’t have pics because I’m not doing anything unique. I have been going through wiring diagrams and hooking up the appropriate leads from the various harnesses. It is not that complicated but it requires concentration to make sure each area is complete and correct. Ive also been buttoning up the front of the motor. Power steering, radiator, etc. If all goes well, I’m hoping for first start by the end of this week.
    MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
    17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
    overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry

  33. #113
    Senior Member Dave Howard's Avatar
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    Nice job on the safety hoop.

    As for the wiring and plumbing, It's pretty straight forward. FFR did a great job with the Coyote install manual. I found this part of the build to be the biggest challenge. Not a challenge from the point of it being difficult. It was a challenge to stay focused with mind on task. Early morning work with a clear head. Read the instructions, find the various tie in points on the wiring harnesses, check, check, check and make the solder connections. Determining the physical position for the Coyote electrical components was fun. Everything hidden and out of sight. And at the end of it, turn the key and VROOM.

    You'll be posting first start video before the crop sprouts.

  34. #114

    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Williamsport, IN
    Posts
    170
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    first start

    It happened Friday! Probably jumped the gun but I got the ignition wired and had to try it. My son put 2 gallons of gas in and vroom!!

    https://youtu.be/RwyHhi62Gbk

    I did not have the radiator plumbed yet and had no intention of running it very long. When I bent over to goose it, there were 3 rapidly growing pools of gas on the floor. I had not tightened any of my fittings very tight and some quick wrenching fixed them all.
    MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
    17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
    overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry

  35. #115

    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Williamsport, IN
    Posts
    170
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    I am starting to get some decent hours to work on the roadster again and all 3 of my sons are home right now from college. Good times are being had in the Hunter shop!! The radiator lines and overflow tank are run and mounted. I continue to tie down and finish up areas of the wiring harness. Last night we decided we were far enough along to put in some panels. We siliconed and riveted in all the panels for the passenger compartment except the tunnel top which will be removable. I had one set back. The new FFR optional KRC power steering pump has an integral tank. The fittings are part of the tank and are aluminum AN style. The supplied lines are chrome plated. I knew better but I threaded the top fitting together dry. It leaked a little so I tightened it. It didn't fell right so I attempted to take it off. The threads galled and stripped all the threads off the aluminum fitting. New tank is ordered ($150 with shipping) and I will be more careful on the reinstall. I will take pics of the setup when it is installed and not leaking.
    MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
    17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
    overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry

  36. #116


    Not a waxer
    Jeff Kleiner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Bloomington, Indiana
    Posts
    3,666
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    Awesome Scott!

    Jeff

  37. #117
    Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Orlando, FL
    Posts
    38
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    My only other suggestion is I have a spreadsheet I called tips and tricks. As I read through build threads and other discussions I grab the ideas and put them in my spreadsheet. I really need to do the next step now and that is take those jewels and put the notes right in the manual where they belong.

    Would you be willing to share this spreadsheet?
    Thanks,
    Michael
    [email protected]

  38. #118

    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Williamsport, IN
    Posts
    170
    Post Thanks / Like
    Hacksaw84, I don't have a spreadsheet. If I stated that I had one in an earlier post, I apologize. That is a great idea and would speed up the build process.
    MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
    17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
    overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry

  39. #119

    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Williamsport, IN
    Posts
    170
    Post Thanks / Like

    Dash work

    The dash layout has been something that has really consumed my thoughts since I started this project. I have looked at countless pics of standard versus competition layouts and many custom setups. I finally decided to just sit in the car with the steering wheel and put them where they look good to me.



    They aren't squared or finished yet but this is what I came up with. I drilled 4 holes for the indicator lights to put in as many have and somehow managed to get one just a hair off. When I popped the lights in, they looked terrible. I was crushed and staring at it when my 3rd son said he had an idea and to let him fix it. He took the oil temp gauge which I hadn't used, gutted it, made a new face plate, and mounted the lights in it. I think it looks great and couldn't me more proud of him and relieved that my mistake had been hidden.



    After wiring up the gauges according to the ffr instructions for the Autometer set, the water temp, tach and speedo did not work. the tach required an adaptor from Autometer to correct the signal.



    This taps into the main feed wire to the coil packs on the coyote setup. The speedo just needed to be calibrated. The water temp took a bit longer to figure out. After much trial and tracing, one of my sons found that the wires for the water temp and oil temp were crossed in the dash plug. All gauges are functioning normally now.
    Last edited by sbhunter; 07-01-2018 at 08:19 AM.
    MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
    17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
    overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry

  40. #120

    Join Date
    Oct 2017
    Location
    Williamsport, IN
    Posts
    170
    Post Thanks / Like

    odds and ends

    I used one of the brake resevoirs from the kit to make my fuel tank vent. It was also a test piece for my powdercoat setup. I think it turned out really nice for something that no one will see again once the body is on.



    I used a Canton overflow tank with a sight gauge to finish up my coolant plumbing.



    Two of my sons offered to learn how to do alignments and rough align the car for me. They spent 4 hours on google and setting up string around the car like a museum exhibit. Using a square, tape measure, and calculator they got the car very close to the standard numbers from the manual. I will take it to a shop I know and have it finished but on initial drives, it tracks straight and feels good.

    MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
    17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
    overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry

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