New engine is mounted on the stand. This is the stand that comes from Factory Five. The engine lift points are also from Factory Five.
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New engine is mounted on the stand. This is the stand that comes from Factory Five. The engine lift points are also from Factory Five.
Last edited by sbhunter; 01-11-2018 at 10:37 PM.
Woo-hoo!!! Congratulations and enjoy the build.
MKIV complete kit w/powder coating and cut outs, serial #9189 delivered 10/10/17, first start - 10/5/18, legal - 10/08/20. Blueprint 306 w/Holley Sniper EFI, TKO 600, power steering, Breeze fan shroud, trunk cubby, & engine compartment battery kit, CNC brake reservoirs, RT turn signal & gas pedal, mechanical throttle linkage, METCO safety loop, GASN side pipes, drop trunk, dual chrome roll bars, vintage gauges, glove box, custom center console, cup holders, and speakers.
Had a few hours to work on it yesterday. I got the F panels mounted and as much of the front suspension done as I could. I am going with a scotchbrite and clear coat finish for the engine bay. I am missing parts to put the coil overs together and most of the steering components. I painted and mounted the rear dif. I ran into an issue with the alternator. The bottom bolt sleeves through the block and needs a bushing in the block to fit correctly. I could not find any mention of one in any of the directions. I will have to call Factory Five or Ford racing Monday or Tuesday. I got the McLeod clutch bottled up after switching out the alignment pins. I sorted out all the bare metal parts and took them to my powder coater.
This is the frame stripped of panels and ready to start in.
These were my helpers last night. My oldest son and 2 of his friends from college.
I used the Ford part for the vent. I cut down the tubing and riveted it to the upper trunk panel.
I called Ford Racing and confirmed that the lower alternator bolt is a loose fit in the block. I don’t like it but bolted it up anyway. I have a question on the flywheel bolts. I pulled the flywheel on the coyote to change the clutch alignment pins. The torque spec that I found for these bolts is 177 ft lbs + 60 degrees. These are not large bolts. I ran them up to 150 lbs and chickened out. Now I am second guessing myself and considering taking the clutch back off and adding lock tight. I need opinions.
I'm pretty sure the stock flywheel bolts are torque to yield, so if you removed them they should be replaced.
Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe builder
Whoa. Lucky you didn't break something. That spec is 177 inch pounds + 60 degrees. Or 20 foot points + 60 degrees. I'd probably replace those. Probably stretched pretty good. BR3Z-6379-A.
Listed on this document: https://performanceparts.ford.com/do...6007-A50NA.pdf
Last edited by edwardb; 01-16-2018 at 08:10 PM.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Holy Cow!! I can’t believe I misread that. Thanks Paul. I will order new bolts and redo it. Hopefully they come out. Thankfully they didn’t snap off. I hate using easy outs.
Does anyone see anything wrong with my front suspension so far? The UCA was assembled upside down from FFR. I don’t have any of the steering assembly yet from FFR or all the parts to put the coils on the shock so this is as far as it goes for now.
Last edited by sbhunter; 01-23-2018 at 03:25 PM.
I installed a Forte midshift kit in the TKO and got the back mount trimmed off.
I am left with this linkage loose in the rear of the case because I didn't split the trans to take it out. It doesn't interfer with anything but I am worried about it rattling back and forth. There is a detent that keeps it from going for and aft. I am considering wrapping it with something to hold it in place. Has anyone else delt with this?
I received new bolts for the flywheel and got them changed out. Thankfully they came out without breaking. I ordered a dial gauge to set the bellhousing. I am trying to get the engine/trans put together so I can set them in to mock up some changes I want to try. I am missing the trans mount a frame among many other things so it will have to wait for that too.
Measure away. But there's no way on your build to adjust it if it's out of spec. On the Coyote, the index dowels are hollow with the mounting bolts going through them. So there's no way to use offset dowels to move things like on a SBF and most other engines. Measure it for reference if you want but if it's off I'm not sure what you would do. Try a different bell housing? I'll bet it's OK though. I didn't measure mine. Not saying that was the right thing to do.
BTW, best I can tell your front suspension looks correct.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Big day yesterday for me. FedEx dropped off the Wilwood brakes, steering rack, trans A frame, the missing shock pieces, and many other items that I will need soon. I got the front brakes assembled and safety wired and got the rack installed with the Breeze mounts.
I dial gauged the bell housing. I wish I hadn't. It is out of center by .0065 which is out of tolerance. As edwardb correctly stated, there is no apparent way to correct this because I cannot find offset bushings for a Coyote block.
I went ahead and mounted the clutch, bell housing, and transmission. I locked the rear shifter shaft in place by driving a piece of wood dowel into it and then running a screw into it through the top plate with gasket compound.
Last edited by sbhunter; 01-27-2018 at 06:32 PM.
If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread
Yes, the centering ring is installed. The disk is tipped back in the photo which is hard to tell because the upper a arm is run all the way in at this point. I didn't realize until I went to install the rotor that I had yet to order any lug nuts. I found 4 laying around the shop just to hold the rotor on to square and align the caliper.
MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry
Very good. One other thing that I missed on mine, is that the 6 piston Wilwood caliper is directional. There is one set of pistons that are slightly bigger diameter, and if I remember right, they will be on the trailing end of the caliper. (as the rotor turns, it's the last set of pistons.) I had to swap the calipers side to side after they were already bled. What a pain.
If Brute Force doesn't work, you're not using enough of it.
Basic Stuff: MK4 Complete Kit #8439, Wilwood's, 17" Halibrands. Extra Stuff: Stainless brake and fuel lines, Breeze cooling, Battery mount, SS Roll Bar. Old Fart Stuff: Heater, Seat Heaters, Footbox Fresh Air, Stereo, Keyless ignition, Power Steering, Hyd Clutch.
Young & Dumb Stuff: 427w Dart, TKO600, 3 link Moser M9/Ford 9", 3.5:1, Eaton TruTrac Posi. Graduation Thread
I got a few things done yesterday. I mounted the front sway bar. No issues. I cut out the trunk drop mod and modified the rear framework to allow full access and support it from the bottom. I let my son rivet the aluminum drop piece on because he wanted to run the pneumatic rivet gun. He did a great job until I noticed that he had put it on backwards!! It was easier to cut a new access to the tank sender hole than drill out the rivets, clean off the silicone, and redo it.
I cleaned, prepped, primed and painted most of the loose brackets.
I have a question on the rear cockpit panel. I started at the front of the car and aligned and drilled most of the panels. The rear panel for the cockpit is not lining up. If I align the seat belt cutouts with the frame member the right corner of the panel and the right base are 1/2" high. If I push the panel down until the corner and bottom are in the right place then the seat belt cutouts on the right side are half covered by the frame member. Which is better? The seatbelt cutouts are the only thing that will be visible when done but I don't want the top edge to affect the body alignment. Also, I laid my blank dash on the arced frame member. If I line up the outer edges with the top edge of the tube, the middle is just on the tube by 1/4". I haven't read the directions yet for this piece but it doesn't seem right.
MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry
Properly positioned, the frame member will be above the seat belt openings in the rear cockpit wall. Usually 1/4-inch or so. This is by design so the belts wrap over the frame member vs. the edge of the aluminum panel. It should be the same on both sides though. I've never had any trouble getting it that way. For the dash, the hoop isn't typically either symmetrical or the same curve as the dash. Typically the dash is going to be a little higher than the tube on the ends, and a bit lower than the tube in the middle. The body roll covers everything.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
I assembled the pedal box yesterday. I used the FFR instructions and edwardb's advice combined to set up the throttle pedal. I trimmed the module down and moved it up as far as I could. Then I cut the plastic pedal off and grafted the FFR pedal on. I flipped the spring over and reshaped it so that it was holding the pedal up instead of pushing it down. I then set the brake and clutch to be 2" in front of it. I have a Focus ST that is a blast to drive and I am using measurements from its pedals as my model. I bolted the Wilwood plates on to the left to gain foot room for the throttle pedal. I had assembled the clutch stop onto the top of the box as per the instructions but it is not within 4" of the clutch when down. It must be for a different pedal or I missed something. My clutch pedal at full stroke just hits the 3/4" bar that causes interference. I am going to leave it alone until I have everything plumbed and can check operation. I will make some kind of stop and plate for the other switch at that time.
This is where it sits at this time. All the panels are fitted and drilled. Next for me is to remove them, clean them up, coat them with Sharkhide, and rivet some on.
MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry
I apologize for the pics. I continue to struggle posting pics. I trimmed these and rotated them before saving them. They show correctly in my album. I don’t understand why they turn when they load into the post. They show up on google chrome on a windows system correctly. When I open this post on an ipad (my normal interface for reading), they are turned.
Last edited by sbhunter; 02-05-2018 at 06:20 PM.
MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry
Mk IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17, Registered and Completed 10/18/18. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build Graduation Thread: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...-Roadster-8901
Some might find this useful. I am using the ffr supplied power steering rack with the Breeze bushings and the supplied shaft. I had to put the foot box bearing on the inside of the foot box which isn’t unusual from what I’ve read. I had to add 1/4” of washers under the bearing at the wheel to get the shaft to clear the frame which is also fairly normal. Here is where I found an issue. When I tried to tighten the Allen lock screw at the rack it pushed the collar up off the lower set of splines. On inspection, the hole for the Allen screw is too low and hits the splines. If I had left it, the bottom of the collar was not engaged with the lower splines. I carefully ground the splines off where the Allen screw needed to set and put it back together. This allowed the collar on the shaft to fully seat on the splines from the rack and created a flat spot for the Allen screw to bite into. Sorry, no pic taken.
MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry
I just read Kleiner’s post in Dagwood’s thread. I didn’t read anywhere about adjusting rebound in the shocks before assembly. That is depressing. Back apart it comes. Where are the instructions for the adjustment? I see them on Koni’s Website but I don’t recall seeing any mention of this in the manual or the instructions with the shocks.
MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry
I read Kleiner's post in Dagwood’s thread also and just stared at it blankly. I'll bet I have redone something on my front suspension at least six times since I started my build. On Saturday I just replaced the pivot joints on both UCA after I ruptured the bushings by over tightening them.
MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017, Street Legal 2/14/2020.
DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread
I need some input. My front sway bar has 4 holes instead of 2 in most pics. The third hole is closest to lining up but I see most in the second hole from the front. My sway bar is against the LCA hard before full droop no matter where I attach it. Also I’m wondering if anyone cuts the bushing down that sleeves onto the bolt attaching the sway bar to the heim linkage. Mine is cocked out hard at close to full droop and never passes straight down as I pull the suspension through its motion. I cut the heim joint down to the size that ffr wanted. Now I’m wondering if it needs to be longer to clearance the bar from the lca.
MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry
I have the suspension above full droop but below ride height in this picture. You can see on the left side of the pic where the LCA contacts the sway bar. The bar is centered. It is hitting on both sides the same. Also the link is pointed out as it goes down. This seems like a weak attachment and would be improved by shortening the bushing. However, shortening the bushing makes it that much harder to get a hole in the bar to line up with the heim joint. Thank you edwardb for the response.
MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry
Apologize for the slightly dark pic. This is #8674 from a couple minutes ago. Just stuck my phone under the car. It's at ride height of course. This is how mine worked out. You could put yours up at ride height and see if it looks similar. I know it's disconcerting for it to be hitting where you're at right now. But in the real world not sure you'll ever be at full droop. Another option would be turn out the rod ends some and see if that helps.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
Thank you edwardb. As usual, you are prompt, detailed, and knowledgeable. I ended up cutting 1/2” off the bushings and using the third hole from the front. I turned the heim joints 1 turn further apart. Once I put the shocks back on, they are not hitting the sway bars. I had taken the shocks back off to check the rebound setting. They were all preset on soft. Now I know for sure. This allowed it to droop more than it ever could with the shocks on. I will post a new picture once I get up to my computer.
MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry
Yesterday's progress pics
I got the fuel pump assembled and installed
The radiator is assembled and installed with Breeze mounts top and bottom.
I cut the tab and mount off the frame on the passenger side for the fuel tank mounts. Made a new mount and welded it on. I then made a cover plate for the hole in the panel.
I finished drilling all the trunk panels.
MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry
I cut off the factory parking brake bracket and made a cover panel.
I am pretty sure that the Lokar brake will go here. It will not bolt on like it is setting. It will be mounted from underneath the 3/4" tubes. I need to do some more research to make sure before I make the bracketry.
Question on the computer mount. From what I can find this is where it goes. the bottom rear hole is lined up with the front of the passenger foot box. The plug from the motor has a molded 90 degree bend the wrong way. I will have to trim it so it can be straightened.
At this point I am starting to search for things to do. I am missing the entire rear suspension, fuel level sensor and many other items that are making it difficult to proceed. I did order a corvette fuel filter/regulator that I read about in someone's post. The regulator is preset at 58 psi and goes back at the tank. This will make the return line short and reduce the clutter on the firewall.
MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry
I ordered the Eastwood dual voltage powdercoat gun and found an old electric oven. I found that I really enjoy powder coating and am considering building a bigger oven using the parts from this one.
This is my first batch. It is almost all of the small bracketry. I had painted them and didn't care for how they turned out so I ground them clean and started over.
MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry
I received my CNC triple and built a bracket for it. The bracket needs to be finish cleaned and powdercoated. I used an engraver to mark the resevoirs by where they feed to as it will be hard to tell after the body goes on. The green bolts are temporary.
I installed the heater in the firewall and decided that it needed a brace.
I was cleaning up the other night and found this near the front of my car. It appears to be a set screw with an allen drive. It is stainless steel. I cannot find a home for it anywhere on the car. Does anyone recognize it. My project is not the only thing going on in my shop so it could be from something else. Or it could be a prank from one of my boys. They have a tendency towards tearing down a motor or some other project and leaving the piles around the shop to get in my way. I have been known to toss a random bolt or other part into their pile just to watch the consternation when they can't figure out where it goes.
Last edited by sbhunter; 02-19-2018 at 02:12 PM.
MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020. Build Thread and Video. Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020. Build Thread and Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023. Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
I received all the IRS parts Friday and spent Sunday putting it together. Due to those who have traveled before me, it was fairly straight forward. I knew going in that some of the mounts would be tight and or misaligned so I had a long punch and a large crescent wrench on hand. I had preorganized all the needed parts bags and other items needed into one box.
And finished the evening by installing the rear sway bar.
MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry
I went completely through the steering column. That was my first thought also. I wonder if there was an extra set screw packaged with it that fell out when I was unboxing it.
MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry
I finished out the brake install yesterday. This is how I mounted the flex line to the body in the rear.
This is the front. I went to the front 2x2 upright with the mount. I liked how the flex line laid better this way.
This is what I ended up with going across the front. Its hard to tell in the picture but the power steeriing lines should have plenty of room to come up through the bend in the brake line going to the passenger side.
This is the line that shipped with my kit. It is awesome. It bends easily, doesn't kink, and the coating doesn't peel off when bent.
MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry
I installed the fuel sender that just arrived from the POL list and mounted the tank. I had cut off and lowered the passenger side rear tank strap mount previously. I had to shorten the tank strap for that side by about an inch. I cut it in two and laid it back on itself and welded both sides. Then I rebent it to the contours of the tank.
Sorry for the busy picture. This is starting to look like a car!!
Last edited by sbhunter; 02-21-2018 at 08:35 AM.
MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry
I just got my engine stand from FFR today to mount the coyote on (versus the crate it came on) so I can get the oil pan and transmission on while it waits to go into the car sometime later. Quick question, it appears that it mounts to upper set of exhaust bolts, is that where yours is mounted?
BTW I think our kits rode together on the truck, mine was delivered 3 days after yours!
Last edited by Silv3rsurf3r; 02-23-2018 at 12:02 AM.
Yes, that is how I mounted mine. I was able to change the oil pan while on the stand. I had to set the stand and motor up on some 2x4’s to have room to work. It is close to the floor but it worked. There are 2 tabs that bolt onto the back that I haven’t found a use for. I had them loosely bolted on and had to remove them when I mounted up the bellhousing due to clearance. There are some spacers that need to be used when you bolt the lift plates onto the motor. I added a couple washers on the front one to move it out farther and get it squared up.
MkIV complete kit #9259, Coyote, TKO600, IRS, Wilwoods x 4, many parts from Breeze, Forte, Russ's Garage and North Racecars
17" Bullit style wheels, custom Kirkey seats, mid shift conversion, drop trunk, KRC power steering, Forte Hyd. clutch and slave, manual brakes
overall build plan: build it to drive, not polish and black it out wherever possible, paint will be some shade of dark cherry
Did you use any spacers or padding when you bolted the stand to the engine? Im afraid that the steel engine stand will dig in and/or gouge the aluminum heads with all that weight (eng,clutch, transmission, etc)...Thoughts anybody? Dan at FFR said he does the pan while engine is in air on hoist then mounts engine to stand, says theres alot more room to maneuver. My stand didnt come with any tabs but the rear cross-brace does have the 2 holes in it and I have 4 carriage bolts and nuts left over. Maybe they are supposed to support the transmission somehow. I also didnt receive any lift plates so I purchased some off of ebay that came with all the hardware and spacers and are working very nice. Ill have to post some pics after work today as soon as I can figure out how, I'm pretty new to this forum posting thing...Rob