Quote Originally Posted by freds View Post
Hi Paul. Please list the dimensions of the cut-out you made to clear the radiator and A/C hose connections. I'd like to piggy back on the work you did lifting the cowl on and off.
Thanks, fred
I thought about listing the dimensions in my original post, but decided not to. Since you ask, I'll describe what I did with one huge caveat. Please check very carefully that these dimensions are correct for your build. I've been working on getting the nose placed for a couple weeks now (off and on, not continuously...) and finally have it where I want it. But to be honest it's been a bit of a struggle. Capped off by once I thought I had it where I wanted it, I added the gas structs and that pushed it forward 1/4-inch or so when closed compared to not having the struts installed. I mentioned this before. So ended up adjusting the hinges again and it's as good as it's going to get. The left (driver) side pivot bolt is at the end of it's adjustment range. The right (passenger side) isn't quite. I also found the wheel lips are asymmetrical side-to-side. With everything else centered, the right (passenger side) overhangs more than the other side. Not a lot and it won't be noticeable when done and everything else is pretty good. But just one example of how you have to balance the fit everywhere and find what works best for you.

So having said that, my cuts on the underside of the cowl are 2-inches in from the outside edge of the hinge brackets. Right up to the metal base on both sides. Even cut into it slightly on the left side. Then another 1-1/8 inches in from the inside of the base of the hinge brackets to clear the A/C condenser. Plus the angle on on the right side, per my picture, to clear the hose connection on the condenser. That angle also cut slightly into the base of the hinge bracket. You'll also need to cut the aluminum panels on each side of the radiator as I showed previously. Once that's all done, also be careful about the placement of the connections for the gas struts. Move the outside of the frame rail as I showed. Also watch the length. With the nose all the up as far as it would go (e.g. the base of the hinge very close to the chassis sheet metal and radiator) I found the frame location needed to be moved back about 3/4-inch. Otherwise the strut would have been pushing hard against the chassis and the radiator right behind it. I suspect there is a lot of variation in all of this, and what I'm citing is my personal experience. Yours maybe different. So check carefully before cutting or drilling anything. That's my main advice. Good luck.