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Thread: Fabb's MK4 Coyote Build Thread

  1. #41

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    Day 3 IFS Work and IRS Prep

    Pretty cool to get the first parts going on the car. I haven't torqued everything down yet but making sure I get this right.

    DS: Things went together well I think, the lower castle nut advice from WarEagleScott was helpful (thanks). The upper castle nut seems to be able to tighten up well past the cotter pin point, so wonder if a spacer is needed there? I am using the standard Mevotech ball joint.


    PS: I have a curious gap on the front side, I haven't really wrenched hard on it, but curious if I should expect to close this gap with torque or spacer and if I need to worry angles of the arms?


    For the IRS prep... So the manual says to sawzall a big chunk off my rear spindles. Really?

    And then the manual says to hammer out the wheel studs, but I haven't found the replacement wheel studs, did I miss them in my inventory?

    Thanks all
    -B
    MK4 Complete Kit #9311 - Coyote, TKO600, IRS
    Ordered: 1/23/18 | Production Complete: 3/6/18 | Delivery: 3/30/18
    Build thread

  2. #42

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    I found the replacement wheel studs, so I guess that part of the plan is going to happen.

    -B
    MK4 Complete Kit #9311 - Coyote, TKO600, IRS
    Ordered: 1/23/18 | Production Complete: 3/6/18 | Delivery: 3/30/18
    Build thread

  3. #43
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    Is that gap on the fore or aft arm?
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  4. #44

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    Is that gap on the fore or aft arm?
    Fore arm. The temptation is to torque it up...
    MK4 Complete Kit #9311 - Coyote, TKO600, IRS
    Ordered: 1/23/18 | Production Complete: 3/6/18 | Delivery: 3/30/18
    Build thread

  5. #45
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    It shouldn't be a problem... I've got (basically) the same upper A-arms on my Camino.
    As long as the cross-shaft doesn't run out of thread before the nut is tight you'll be OK... the pivot joints on the aft arm will compensate.
    (Just remember that the cross-shaft nuts don't get final torqued until the suspension is under load - full weight of the car after bouncing it a few times)
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  6. #46
    edwardb's Avatar
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    Yes, the metric wheel studs for the 2015+ IRS hubs are removed and replaced with 1/2-20 SAE studs provided in the kit. Then they match the front hubs and also the kit provided lug nuts. And yes the IRS knuckles get a section removed. The IRS instructions are quite thorough and both of these subjects are covered in detail. I cut them using my bandsaw vs. a Sawzall. Where to cut is shown in the instructions, and isn't super critical.



    For the front suspension, not unusual for the lower tabs to have moved around some when welded. They bend pretty easily with a large combination wrench. Or they can be spread with a piece of threaded rod and nuts and washers. I've never had to use spacers in the fronts. For the rears, totally normal to use the provided washers on one side when using the FFR LCA's (versus Mustang donor LCA's). Described in the instructions. I've personally not had to use a washer on each side. But wouldn't hurt if you did. You'll need to use some judgement whether a washer is best, of whether the tab just needs to be moved/straightened. The instructions give the torque setting to be applied with the LCA in a horizontal position. The tabs and or washers will tighten against the inner steel bushings. I normally fill the joints with grease before assembly. Makes them a bit easier to assemble plus makes absolutely positive they're adequately lubed.

    For the upper cross arm, that gap has to be closed. The bushing should be fully captured on both sides. The instructions are pretty specific about how this gets installed. No torque specs are given. It says to tighten them enough to where they move relatively easily, but not so tight to where grease pumped in through the zerk is unable to squeeze through the small grooves in the bushings.

    One other hint. For the picture of your UCA in post #41, generally it's good practice to have bolts go in from the top and the nut on the bottom. The bolt on your UCA next to the upper ball joint has the nut on the top. Suggest you flip it over. In the unlikely event the nut were to fall off, the bolt may still stay in place to prevent a catastrophic failure.
    Last edited by edwardb; 04-03-2018 at 09:15 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  7. #47
    Mark Eaton's Avatar
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    x2 what Edwardb said about the UCA. If you want to see how not to do it look at my build thread. I tightened them too much and ruptured the bushings on both sides. Had to replace them. Also, I found removing the section from the IRS knuckles difficult with my Sawzal but my angle grinder cut through it like butter!
    MK4 #9130 , complete kit, arrived 8/10/2017.
    DART SHP 347, EFI, TKO600, IRS
    http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...n-Build-Thread

  8. #48

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    Day 4: IRS Knuckles and Hubs

    Didn't get as much done today as I had hoped, but made some progress.

    Knuckles and Hub Studs:
    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Yes, the metric wheel studs for the 2015+ IRS hubs are removed and replaced with 1/2-20 SAE studs provided in the kit. Then they match the front hubs and also the kit provided lug nuts. And yes the IRS knuckles get a section removed. The IRS instructions are quite thorough and both of these subjects are covered in detail. I cut them using my bandsaw vs. a Sawzall. Where to cut is shown in the instructions, and isn't super critical.
    Yep, I reviewed your build thread and followed your pattern and used the bandsaw on my knuckles and then polished them up a bit:




    I also got the wheel studs out using my hydraulic press (I actually have one for cider making). That worked well, although putting the new ones in with the press seemed a bit awkward (the stud liked to go at an angle with the press), so I am likely going to try impact drill method tomorrow.

    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    For the front suspension, not unusual for the lower tabs to have moved around some when welded. They bend pretty easily with a large combination wrench. Or they can be spread with a piece of threaded rod and nuts and washers. I've never had to use spacers in the fronts. For the rears, totally normal to use the provided washers on one side when using the FFR LCA's (versus Mustang donor LCA's). Described in the instructions. I've personally not had to use a washer on each side. But wouldn't hurt if you did. You'll need to use some judgement whether a washer is best, of whether the tab just needs to be moved/straightened. The instructions give the torque setting to be applied with the LCA in a horizontal position. The tabs and or washers will tighten against the inner steel bushings. I normally fill the joints with grease before assembly. Makes them a bit easier to assemble plus makes absolutely positive they're adequately lubed.
    Cool, I went with the spacing and a single washer worked just fine on that side. As for the grease, something like this?

    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    For the upper cross arm, that gap has to be closed. The bushing should be fully captured on both sides. The instructions are pretty specific about how this gets installed. No torque specs are given. It says to tighten them enough to where they move relatively easily, but not so tight to where grease pumped in through the zerk is unable to squeeze through the small grooves in the bushings.
    Makes sense, I have been test fitting stuff until I am very confident its good, so I will get this one cinched up as well.

    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    One other hint. For the picture of your UCA in post #41, generally it's good practice to have bolts go in from the top and the nut on the bottom. The bolt on your UCA next to the upper ball joint has the nut on the top. Suggest you flip it over. In the unlikely event the nut were to fall off, the bolt may still stay in place to prevent a catastrophic failure.
    Thanks for catching that. It's funny, because I am sure you or someone else have made that point before because I remember it being a great tip. I haven't tightened up those yet, so, looks like tomorrow's theme is getting my torque setup correct.

    I also learned the local powder coating here (Seattle area) is 2-2.5 weeks backed up... Did some test options on a spare piece of aluminum with the etch + clear-coat and 2 other color options. We'll see what looks good tomorrow.

    * Tip: make sure bolts are on top and nuts on bottom in case they get loose and fall out (see above).

    ? Question: For the panels. I assume the best practice is get all the parts positioned on the body and drilled/cleco'd in. Then send them to powder coat, then install later. I figure positioning/drilling/cleco with the nicely PC'd stuff would not be as fun.

    Thanks!
    -B
    MK4 Complete Kit #9311 - Coyote, TKO600, IRS
    Ordered: 1/23/18 | Production Complete: 3/6/18 | Delivery: 3/30/18
    Build thread

  9. #49
    edwardb's Avatar
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    Yes, fit and drill the panels before powder coating. That's my process and I think the most common. You should find they all fit really well and won't require much tweaking. But occasionally a bend needs to be adjusted a little, trim made to clear a weld, whatever. When back from PC, you may find you need to run the #30 drill bit through the holes, depending on thick the powder was applied. But it only takes a minute or two per panel. No big deal.

    For the chassis grease, I've never gotten too fancy with that. Whatever name brand the local parts store had on the shelf. I do typically pick the synthetic.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 crate Coyote. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  10. #50

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    More stuff to buy

    As I read thru all the build threads, I compiled my list of goodies I wanted to get as well:
    1. Breeze: Battery Front & Lower radiator support kit & Fan Shroud
    2. Replica parts: Radiator Panel, trunk support
    3. Russ T: Trunk Kit (is the hoop conversion kit listed the right one to order, I have this pic and think it is called the drop box but cant find on his website)

    4. FFMetal: Thicker firewall

    Then the choice between a couple brands:
    1. Koolmat from Breeze (pre-cut but pricey) vs Thermo-Tec and Jazzman's cardboard template method
    2. Radiator pipes for Coyote from Boig or Breeze

    I also have some pics for stuff I dont know if folks love/hate like Wheel well liners (Alex Custom Roadster Interiors).

    Always interested in your feedback on the stuff you have really loved adding to your car. Let me know.

    -Brian
    MK4 Complete Kit #9311 - Coyote, TKO600, IRS
    Ordered: 1/23/18 | Production Complete: 3/6/18 | Delivery: 3/30/18
    Build thread

  11. #51

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    Actually, just saw this thread with lots of comments on mods and feedback. I will add my 2 cents over there.

    -B
    MK4 Complete Kit #9311 - Coyote, TKO600, IRS
    Ordered: 1/23/18 | Production Complete: 3/6/18 | Delivery: 3/30/18
    Build thread

  12. #52

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    Powder coating fun

    I didn't realize how long the engagement with local powder coating places was going to take... After a couple weeks of back and forth, I think I have found the right crew and reasonable price. 20+ years experience, probably take them a week, and between $800-1000 depending on the details of final parts list and such. They also are happy to do my calipers in my accent color for another $200 or so. Seems reasonable.

    As I have been going thru this, I have read many other build threads that say "I should have included that on my PC list", so I have tried to do my best to be 1 trip and done, we'll see. Here's the list I compiled of stuff going to the powder coater.

    53 panels to Powder Coat:
    Part # Description
    10551 Footbox Outside Vertical Wall, PS
    10554 Footbox Outside Vertical Wall, DS
    10853 Footbox Top, PS
    10858 Footbox Top Outside Section, DS
    10905 Footbox Tunnel Side Vertical Wall, DS
    12273 Engine Harness Block Off Plate
    12407 Dash Harness Block Off Plate
    12806 Transmission Tunnel Front Vertical Wall
    13138 Footbox Front Vertical Wall, PS
    13139 Footbox Tunnel Side Vertical Wall, PS
    14733 Footbox Front Wall Patch Cover, DS
    15015 Footbox Top Outside, PS
    15523 Footbox Top Inside Section, DS
    15802 Wilwood Clutch Blockoff
    16061 Footbox Top Inside Cover, DS
    16277 Footbox Front Wall Panel, DS
    10559 Firewall
    10863 F Panel, PS
    10864 F Panel, DS
    10963 Firewall Extension, PS
    13647 Fuse Panel Mount
    16274 Coyote 2015 Computer Mount
    16484 Coyote 2015 Fuse Panel Mount
    B70561 Front Battery Box (Breeze)
    B32204 Fan Shroud (Breeze)
    RP101 Main Intake Cowl - Nose Opening (Replica Parts)
    10560 Trunk Floor, Upper (Front)
    12959 Trunk Floor Block Off Plates (x2)
    15011 Trunk Outside Wall, DS
    15012 Trunk Outside Wall, PS
    15222 Trunk Floor, Lower (Rear)
    15223 Trunk Side Cover (x2)
    RT101 Trunk Drop Box (Russ Thompson)
    10557 Cockpit Floor w/Tunnel Wall, DS
    10558 Cockpit Floor w/Tunnel Wall, PS
    10563 Transmission Tunnel Top
    10823 Rear Cockpit Vertical Wall
    10906 Transmission Tunnel Rear (U-Joint Access Panel)
    12274 Transmission Harness Block Off Plate
    12985 Footbox Dropped Floor, DS
    13247 Transmission Tunnel Rear Corner, PS
    13634 Footbox Dropped Floor, PS
    13642 Under Door Lower, PS
    13803 Under Door Top, DS
    14057 Transmission Tunnel Cover Block Off Plate w/Hole
    14582 Under Door Lower, DS
    14583 Transmission Tunnel Rear Corner, DS
    14584 Under Door Top, PS
    15020 Rear Cockpit Corner, DS
    15021 Rear Cockpit Corner, PS
    RP102 Underdash Filler Panel (Replica Parts)

    Notice I am not using certain parts because I am replacing with parts from ReplicaParts, etc. This is mainly just the Nose panels and a couple dash switch mounts.

    31 Additional Parts for Powder Coating:
    Part # Description
    33113 Bracket: Trunk Hinge Mount
    15639 Trunk Hinge Arm
    14788 Wilwood Brake Light Switch Mount, Steel
    16209 Wilwood Pedalbox Mount
    16210 Wilwood Pedalbox Rear Mount
    13972 Bracket: Gas Strut, 90 deg bent, Short
    13451 Frame Adjustment Plate, DS
    13452 Arm Support Plate, DS
    13520 Arm Support Plate, PS
    13946 Hood Mount Plate
    14006 Frame Adjustment Plate, PS
    15143 Long Arm, DS
    15144 Long Arm, PS
    25410 Arm: Short
    13531 Spacer: 3/16, Steel (Door Latch)
    15176 Lower Handle Assembly
    15661 Front Body Mount, DS
    15662 Front Body Mount, PS
    12470 QJ Bent Hook, DS
    12471 QJ Bent Hook, PS
    16000 IRS Swaybar Mount, DS
    16001 IRS Swaybar Mount, PS

    23 parts I am planning to simply paint with POR.
    Part # Description
    13653 Bracket: Brake Line Mount
    14495 Fuel Filter Bracket
    14689 Braided Brake Line Mount
    15170 Bracket: E-Brake Mounting
    15431 Accelerator Mount Bracket
    60175 Drive Shaft, 31 Spline x10.50
    15167 Fixed Gear
    15168 Handle to Ratchet Mount
    15169 Ratchet Tooth
    14689 Braided Brake Line Mount
    15016 Fuel Strap Block Off Plate
    16258 Clutch Top Travel Switch Mount
    16259 Clutch Bottom Travel Switch Mount
    16260 Clutch Pedal Switch Mount
    16262 Bottom Switch Clutch Quadrant Plate
    16122 IRS Center Section

    And lastly the 4 splash panels in Dupli-Color Bed Armor.

    So my questions:
    1. Am I forgetting anything? Or am I including stuff I won't actually use (I have the Coyote Fitment Kit + IRS).
    2. With the calipers, I was thinking of ordering decals to put Wilwood back on after. Does Wilwood sell them, or just buy aftermarket like these on Amazon?
    3. Pedal boxes, for things like the clutch quadrant assembly, should that be painted? POR or PC?
    4. What about the Door Latch spacers? I think EdwardB simply attached them before body painting and they got painted.
    5. The manual suggests PC for certain parts, yet some seem silly to PC, and are on my POR list, any concern? Like the quadrant stop and switch mount.

    Thanks again
    -Brian
    MK4 Complete Kit #9311 - Coyote, TKO600, IRS
    Ordered: 1/23/18 | Production Complete: 3/6/18 | Delivery: 3/30/18
    Build thread

  13. #53
    RR20AC's Avatar
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    How about the radiator cowl cover, brake duct grills from breeze and the side louvers
    20th Anniversary MK4 Roadster, #8752, 18 of 20, Delivered 12/03/15, 1st Start 01/28/2017, off to paint 4/13/2017, Forte 351w/ Holley EFI, Forte throttle linkage, TKO 600/Forte Hyd. Clutch, UniSteer Electra Steering, RT's turn Signals, many Breeze parts, Paint by the Cobra Colorist. Finished on 10/08/2017. 500 mile inspection on 10/21/2017

  14. #54

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    Quote Originally Posted by RR20AC View Post
    How about the radiator cowl cover, brake duct grills from breeze and the side louvers
    Yep, I have the cowl cover going to the PC, while the brake duct grills will be body color (spray paint), and the side louvers are still coming from FFR in their upgrade version (no PC needed).

    Looking forward to more input.

    Thanks
    -B
    MK4 Complete Kit #9311 - Coyote, TKO600, IRS
    Ordered: 1/23/18 | Production Complete: 3/6/18 | Delivery: 3/30/18
    Build thread

  15. #55

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    Catch up on build thread - HBCI

    Ok, been a while since I updated my build thread, so time to catch up.

    First, my son and I flew down for the HBCI, that was awesome! So many fantastic people and stories and learned a ton. Special thanks to Jazzman, Straversi, RR20AC, David H and his family, both Jeff's (Miller and Kleiner) and many others for being so generous with their time and expertise! Also, thanks to Dave Smith for his part, my son got to meet him at the end and was pretty excited to meet the guy who started our car-building adventure.

    Here's a few of the best pics from the event. First, Jazzman's award winner (and my son's two thumbs up!):


    Next, my son's personal favorite (he loved the visible fans and the color):


    Very cool Matte Grey with offset stripe:


    Amazing metallic paint and interior detail. This one looked like a luxury car:


    I will post some more on the actual build progress soon.
    -B
    MK4 Complete Kit #9311 - Coyote, TKO600, IRS
    Ordered: 1/23/18 | Production Complete: 3/6/18 | Delivery: 3/30/18
    Build thread

  16. #56

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    Catch up on build thread - April 2018 Stuff

    Now that I have a few minutes to catch up here, time to show some actual car build updates.

    1st, I got the IRS components prepped, including the pre-grease before attaching to the car:


    Then a whole bunch of drilling and cleco-ing to get all the panels aligned and set.


    Couple of things I learned:
    1. Use good drill bits.
    2. Double-check all alignments
    3. With rivnuts, make sure you drill a nut hole and a screw hole


    On the rivnuts, I only used in a few locations, but when I drilled it in the top of the engine panel on the driver side, I used the same size bit to drill thru both panels. Oops, this means I need to use a larger screwhead or a washer. Not a huge deal, but something to learn from.

    Then onto POR painting, mostly the center section in the IRS. I decided to do mostly POR and a then clear-coat (Dupli-color clear ceramic) on the aluminum cover. I can't find a pic of the finished paint, but here's the before pic:


    I am pretty happy with how it came out with a good look and solid protection factor.

    More updates shortly...
    -B
    MK4 Complete Kit #9311 - Coyote, TKO600, IRS
    Ordered: 1/23/18 | Production Complete: 3/6/18 | Delivery: 3/30/18
    Build thread

  17. #57

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    Catch up on build thread - April 2018 Stuff Part 2

    Ok, so last couple of things my kids and I did before the trip to HBCI was getting the last of the Powder Coating stuff prepped to deliver to the shop. That includes getting the Breeze Battery Box in:


    I wound up making a few shims out of wood run thru my planer to get the gaps precise per Mark's spec. Maybe a little OCD on my part, but it worked well for me.


    Then it was on to getting Russ Thompson's trunk drop box in place (call/email him, its not listed on his site but he still sells it). I positioned the box walls:


    Key learning for me on this part, I tried to get too close on the 1st labeled corner (DS front). Russ labels this one as the cut to get right and the others are approx. I tried to get a bit closer to the corner and forgot this will make it a bit tougher to rivet. No biggie, but my advice would be, get that 1 cut exactly how Russ lays out, then progress slowly around the rest of the cuts 1 at a time. It worked very well to just get 1 part cut aligned at a time to then make sure it all worked. Also, I got a bit over-invested in my drilling and wound up drilling 2 holes in the cross beam here I wish I hadn't. Oh well, I will find a way to make that a planned thing.

    Then traced the cutout on my trunk floor and cut:


    Then started the cleco assembly:


    Final cleco view:


    After this prep and a few more parts arriving from Replica Parts and Breeze I was able to take all my stuff to the PC and hop on the plane to HBCI.

    More later.

    -B
    MK4 Complete Kit #9311 - Coyote, TKO600, IRS
    Ordered: 1/23/18 | Production Complete: 3/6/18 | Delivery: 3/30/18
    Build thread

  18. #58
    Senior Member
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    I like putting Clecos in every hole, too, but you don't have to. I try to space them out about every 10-12 inches, but I always fill the hole nearest the next hole I'm about to drill. Looks cooler when all the holes are filled, but takes longer.

    Looking good!
    Mk4 #8861 Complete kit. Delivered: 27 Apr 2016, Roller: 12 Jan 2018

    Forte: 2016 Coyote & cover, alternator, engine controls, clutch kit, bellhousing, Moroso pan, TKO600, midshift, 3.55 axle, 190lph fuel pump, Spectre air inlet and filter. Breeze: battery forward and switch, fuel pressure regulator and braided hose, radiator shroud and mounts. Replicaparts: radiator panel, under dash panel, weathertight connectors.

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