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Insulating the underside of the transmission tunnel cover
I've used Thermo-Tec to insulate the interior panels of my roadster and after fitting the transmission tunnel cover I'm thinking of using DEI Lava Shield on the underside. The cover will be upholstered with a thin padding and leather. Any thoughts on my plan (pro/con)?
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Super Moderator
Yes, use removable screws of any number of ways so you can remove the trans cover. this will make it so much easier for any future needed work.Use fewer screws then more so it's easy to remove the cover and plan the screw placement so they are clear of the seats.
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Originally Posted by
Russ Thompson
Yes, use removable screws of any number of ways so you can remove the trans cover. this will make it so much easier for any future needed work.Use fewer screws then more so it's easy to remove the cover and plan the screw placement so they are clear of the seats.
Good advice about making sure the screw placement isn't hidden by the seats!
Thanks,
Dave
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Senior Member
It's not particularly hot under there (e.g. compared to the engine compartment, around the headers, etc.) so maybe the DEI stuff is overkill. Just some ordinary spray on or stick on insulation would do the job as well IMO. But insulation is definitely a good thing and will minimize whatever heat there is plus reduce noise a bit. I used leather and padding on the top of my removable cover on #8674 as well, so brushed several layers of Lizard Skin heat and sound insulation on the underside. Normally it's sprayed, but for small areas brushing works OK. Looked like this when done. Not pretty but for that location who cares. The brackets on the bottom are how it's held on. They line up with cross braces on the tunnel and are where I can reach them from the bottom. More work than just putting screws in the side from the top. But I don't expect to take it off very often (haven't yet!) and wanted the mounting screws hidden. The piece on the front slides under the aluminum in that area and holds the front down.
Last edited by edwardb; 01-28-2018 at 07:20 AM.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020.
Build Thread and
Video.
Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020.
Build Thread and
Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023.
Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
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Senior Member
I used the Thermo tec everywhere including the underside of the trans tunnel cover. Works great and no complaints. I used the same mounting system that EdwardB shows above. Works great as well.
MK4 #8900 - complete kit - Coyote, TKO600, IRS - Delivered 6/28/16 First Start 10/6/16 Go cart - 10/16/16 Build completed - 4/26/17 - 302 days to build my 302 CI Coyote Cobra - Registered and street legal 5/17/17
Build Thread
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...e-build-thread
PHIL 4:13 INSTAGRAM - @scottsrides
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Originally Posted by
edwardb
It's not particularly hot under there (e.g. compared to the engine compartment, around the headers, etc.) so maybe the DEI stuff is overkill. Just some ordinary spray on or stick on insulation would do the job as well IMO. But insulation is definitely a good thing and will minimize whatever heat there is plus reduce noise a bit. I used leather and padding on the top of my removable cover on #8674 as well, so brushed several layers of Lizard Skin heat and sound insulation on the underside. Normally it's sprayed, but for small areas brushing works OK. Looked like this when done. Not pretty but for that location who cares. The brackets on the bottom are how it's held on. They line up with cross braces on the tunnel and are where I can reach them from the bottom. More work than just putting screws in the side from the top. But I don't expect to take it off very often (haven't yet!) and wanted the mounting screws hidden. The piece on the front slides under the aluminum in that area and holds the front down.
Paul,
I plan to show your cover to my upholstery shop. I want the same look with the stitching. I see you riveted those braces on. Any concern about the rivets showing through the finished upholstery over time?
Thanks,
Dave
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Senior Member
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Senior Member
I applied a layer of Hydromat Extreme through the cockpit including the trans tunnel. Worked very well and was super easy to apply. Basically peal and stick. I have two cup holders in the transmission cover between the seats. While driving on a cool morning a couple of years ago, I pulled up one of the cup holders to expo the end of the transmission. The tunnel is under pressure and the amount of heat blowing up was amaizing. Even with heated seats, a heater/defroster, and good gloves, the additional heat blowing up was welcomed and kept my right hand warm on that particular long drive. SO, yes to your plans.
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
Papa
Paul, I plan to show your cover to my upholstery shop. I want the same look with the stitching. I see you riveted those braces on. Any concern about the rivets showing through the finished upholstery over time?
Thanks,
Dave
Good luck with that. A local auto upholstery shop stitched mine as well. I didn't have any way to that myself. No issue with rivets showing through. All are flush rivets and dead flat with the rest of the aluminum. If you used regular rivets they would definitely show. You can use solid aluminum rivets and just flatten them on the back side with a hammer on a small anvil. Or you can get flush pop rivets. I've done both. In either case need to drill a small countersink.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020.
Build Thread and
Video.
Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020.
Build Thread and
Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023.
Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
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Originally Posted by
edwardb
Good luck with that. A local auto upholstery shop stitched mine as well. I didn't have any way to that myself. No issue with rivets showing through. All are flush rivets and dead flat with the rest of the aluminum. If you used regular rivets they would definitely show. You can use solid aluminum rivets and just flatten them on the back side with a hammer on a small anvil. Or you can get flush pop rivets. I've done both. In either case need to drill a small countersink.
As always, Paul. Than you for the expert advice. The latch you used looks great. Is it functional? Where did you source it from?
Dave
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This setup looks interesting:
https://www.mcmaster.com/#remote-act...tches/=1bbrd2j
I could use the same approach as Paul along the front edge and then install one or two of the remote latches at the rear with the release handle in the trunk.
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
Papa
As always, Paul. Than you for the expert advice. The latch you used looks great. Is it functional? Where did you source it from?
Dave
I'm not sure what you're asking about. Maybe the shiny cover in front of the shifter? That's a vintage style ash tray. Original Cobras had one. I use it for our ear plugs. http://www.**********accessories.com/p-82-ashtray.aspx. Let me know if that's not what you mean.
Originally Posted by
Papa
FWIW, that strikes me as unnecessarily complicated. I wouldn't overthink the hidden fastener thing. I'm not expecting the cover to come off very often. Likely if it is, for something more serious where I'm under the car anyway. So I wasn't too worried about how easy/hard it was. Just doable, compared to not being to take it off at all because it's riveted and carpeted in place. But something simple on the bottom or a few screws along the outside edge works.
Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017.
Build Thread
Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. Sold 09/07/2020.
Build Thread and
Video.
Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Gen 3 Coyote. Legal 03/04/2020.
Build Thread and
Video
Build 5: 35 Hot Rod Truck #138. LS3 and 4L65E auto. Rcvd 01/05/2021. Legal 04/20/2023.
Build Thread. Sold 11/9/2023.
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Originally Posted by
edwardb
I'm not sure what you're asking about. Maybe the shiny cover in front of the shifter? That's a vintage style ash tray. Original Cobras had one. I use it for our ear plugs.
http://www.**********accessories.com/p-82-ashtray.aspx. Let me know if that's not what you mean.
FWIW, that strikes me as unnecessarily complicated. I wouldn't overthink the hidden fastener thing. I'm not expecting the cover to come off very often. Likely if it is, for something more serious where I'm under the car anyway. So I wasn't too worried about how easy/hard it was. Just doable, compared to not being to take it off at all because it's riveted and carpeted in place. But something simple on the bottom or a few screws along the outside edge works.
Ha! I thought you had engineered some slick paddle latch! Okay, I'll skip the ashtray. I may still look at the hidden latch setup though, if for nothing else than providing something to talk about that is different than everyone else's builds! Besides, overthinking is what engineers do!
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Senior Member
I insulated the underside of the cover, as another means of reducing cockpit heat. Back when I was building, many owners were complaining about the heat issues.
Although I initially covered the tranny cover with vinyl, to match the dash, I ended up carpeting it. Carpet is much cooler to rest your arm on, after the sun's been beating down on it.
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Senior Member
Originally Posted by
edwardb
But insulation is definitely a good thing and will minimize whatever heat there is plus reduce noise a bit. I used leather and padding on the top of my removable cover on #8674
The noise reduction is a good point!. Your cover is really well done. Love the stitching job.
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