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Thread: The 40 Watt Garage - #9365 is in the house!

  1. #121
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    40 Watt Garage - Mk4 Build - IRS Rear Brake Lines

    Made a little progress yesterday running the braided flex and hard-line crossover pipe. The instruction manual isn't very clear on this, so I did a "sit and stare at it" session for a bit. Criteria was tucked up out of the way, clearance from moving suspension, but serviceable (future flex line replacement), and ultimate routing of the main feed from the rear master cylinder.

    I settled on mounting the flex to hardline tabs midway on the diagonal tube for the upper control arm
    RearBrakes01.jpgRearBrakes02.jpg

    Here's a few shots from further back... note the blue marks on the tabs. I clipped the fittings in place on the bench, and marked the tabs for the minimum clearance to have the retainer clips fully engage.
    RearBrakes03.jpgRearBrakes04.jpgRearBrakes05.jpg

    The "T" fitting is on the Driver's Side. I'll be running the main feed from the Rear Master down this side of the car.

    Here's a few shots of the hardline "crossover" pipe. This was a cut-to-fit piece, and needed to have one end properly double flared.
    RearBrakes06.jpgRearBrakes07.jpgRearBrakes08.jpgRearBrakes09.jpg

    This line is tucked up against trunk floor cross-brace. I'll lock it down with some of the rubbery/coated clamps.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  2. #122
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    40 Watt Garage - Mk4 Build - Wilwood Pedal Box

    After the rear brake line job, I started on the Wilwood pedal assembly.

    One of the things that has concerned me was that others have had interference issues with the 3/4"sq. upper chassis/body tube and the clutch pedal (travel).

    I jigged up the pedal assembly, bolted it in, and my clutch pedal is at 98% of travel (before hitting the footbox tin) when it contacts the 3/4sq. tube.
    Pedals02.jpg

    I'm not going to cut the tube, splice, bolt/weld, whatever at this rate. I'll imagineer an adjustable stop-bolt off the 3/4" tube, and play with the throw adjustment at the slave & master cylinder.

    The Wilwood pedal assembly went in without a hitch... (the directions suck) but it's in there. Also in these pics is the Forte's Performance hydraulic clutch master cylinder (Wilwood piece).
    Pedals01.jpgPedals03.jpgPedals04.jpgPedals05.jpgPedals06.jpgPedals07.jpgPedals08.jpg

    Next step will be Cleco'ing the DS footbox tins back in place and determining hard line routing out of the footbox.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  3. #123
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    40 Watt Garage - Mk4 Build - Front Brake Lines pt.1

    Had the last couple of days off from my whirlwind trip of SD, WI, and SC, and got back into the shop for some quality decompression & build time. (Amazing what a DVD in the player and tinkering will do for your mental health!)

    Since there's no "set" plans on routing, and it's pretty much left to builder's discretion... here's my take on the hardline-to-flex line transitions.
    FrontLines01.pngFrontLines02.pngFrontLines03.pngFrontLines04.pngFrontLines05.pngFrontLines06.pngFrontLines07.pngFrontLines08.pngFrontLines09.png
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  4. #124
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    40 Watt Garage - Mk4 Build - Front Brake Lines pt.2

    Now that I had an "Aiming Point", I could route the hardline between wheels, and figure a way out of the footbox for the main feeder.

    Using the Wilwood front footbox panel, there are 3 holes in the steel "bulkhead" that are unused/covered up.
    I decided to utilize the outboard-most hole for my exit from the footbox for the main front brake feeder. I opened up the bulkhead hole to 5/8", cleco'd the panel in place, marked the hole, and drilled the aluminum panel to fit a 3/16" (ID) rubber grommet.

    The wheel to wheel crossover pipe was bent and tacked to the front "X" brace and routed to each wheel coupler.

    FrontLines10.pngFrontLines12.pngFrontLines13.pngFrontLines14.pngFrontLines15.png
    Last edited by Fixit; 08-01-2018 at 10:24 PM.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  5. #125
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    40 Watt Garage - Mk4 Build - Footbox Plumbing

    This was a real "sit and stare at it" session. There's a LOT going on in this little space, and the only access to it is either through the top hatch, or upside-down on your head in the footbox when everything is glued n screwed together.

    Figuring out a way to exit the footbox for the rear brake main feeder was the biggest challenge. I wanted to keep in INSIDE the footbox, away from the headers/sidepipes, but not in the way of anything. There's this neat little channel/space between the 3/4" sq. tube and the round front floor/nerf bar tube. I was able to snake the line through this gap, and it's protected and out of the way.

    RearFeed01.png


    This is what the finished product looks like, and you can see a better angle of the front main feeder line exit.

    Lines01.pngLines02.png
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  6. #126
    Straversi's Avatar
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    Nicely done. I really enjoyed running brake lines for some reason. Good problem solving challenge.
    Yours is well planned and executed.
    -Steve
    MK IV #8901 - Complete kit, Coyote, TKO-600, IRS. Ordered 5/23/16, Delivered 7/14/16, First Start 8/13/17, First Go-Kart 10/22/17. Build Thread: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showt...V-Coyote-Build

  7. #127
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    Had a few FFR boxes waiting for me on the stoop... Down to 2 items on my POL list
    Tie Rod ends
    Bumpers
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  8. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fixit View Post
    Had the last couple of days off from my whirlwind trip of SD, WI, and SC, and got back into the shop for some quality decompression & build time. (Amazing what a DVD in the player and tinkering will do for your mental health!)

    Since there's no "set" plans on routing, and it's pretty much left to builder's discretion... here's my take on the hardline-to-flex line transitions.
    FrontLines01.pngFrontLines02.pngFrontLines03.pngFrontLines04.pngFrontLines05.pngFrontLines06.pngFrontLines07.pngFrontLines08.pngFrontLines09.png
    Im concerned. It looks like your flex line will rub when the suspension travels upward.

  9. #129
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    Im concerned. It looks like your flex line will rub when the suspension travels upward.
    Nope... 1" clearance on the upper A-Arm at all times unless the steering is broken & the tire is rubbing a hole through the "F" panel (bigger problems)
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  10. #130
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    40 Watt Garage - Mk4 Build - Brake & Clutch Reservoir

    A little more progress on the braking system the last few days.
    The supplied single reservoir and "Tee" fitting/hose arrangement has always struck me as a bit "oogie", and leaves no provision for a hydraulic clutch. Enter the Tilton 3-chamber reservoir.
    It'll set you back about $110 bucks, but solves all the problems in a really nice, all-in-one unit... until you consider the options. They make them with AN fitting output, or hose barb output.

    I ordered the hose-barb version. Problem is that the hose fittings on the Tilton unit are for a 3/8" hose - the barbs on the Wilwood master(s) are for 1/4".

    So, I voided any warranty and sawed off the molded-in hose fittings, drilled the nubs, and tapped the bottoms of the reservoirs for 1/8" NPT. A trip to the corner hardware store netted three 1/8" NPT to hose barb 90deg fittings, and they're threaded into the Tilton piece.

    A few hours, some .040 aluminum sheet and a mounting bracket was fabbed up, some RivNuts set, and the Tilton reservoir is in place. Now to bleed the brakes and see if I can still do double-flares correctly!

    Lines03.pngLines04.pngLines05.pngLines06.pngLines07.pngLines08.pngLines09.pngLines10.png
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  11. #131
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    40 Watt Garage - Mk4 Build - Mustang Rear Brakes & E-Brake Cables - Pt. 1

    I am using the 2015 and up Mustang IRS & disc brakes. This led to a dilemma with the Emergency/Parking brake cables.
    I'm assuming that the earlier IRS/T-Bird calipers used a slotted arrangement for the wheel end of the cable - where a "knob/stop" was swedged on the end of the cable.

    This is not the case with the later calipers, and the available cables from FFR won't work with the 2015 & up Mustang brakes... here's why
    Attachment 91139 The Mustang calipers use a hook & slot setup on the axle end of the cable Attachment 91140

    This means I'll have to reuse the cables from the Mustang.
    (I purchased a complete rotor-to-rotor rear axle assembly - a zero mile "take-out" unit - that included the springs, shocks, ABS sensors, and E-Brake cables).

    Step 1 - using a lineman's pliers or big sidecutters, nip off the handle-end swedged knob on the end of the inner cable (NOT the end pictured above!) Slide the inner cable out of the sheath and set aside for later.
    This should leave you with two outer cable sheaths something like this... Attachment 91141

    Step 2 - Removing the un-needed mounting brackets. The only bracket you need to save is the one about 6" from the caliper - everything else can go.
    Attachment 91142 Mark the bracket, and cut off the ear for the ABS sensor cable E-Brake05.jpgE-Brake06.jpg

    The brackets are very easy to remove from the sheath. Clamp the bracket in the vise, and use a BIG straight-blade screwdriver to coax the rolled area open
    E-Brake07.jpgE-Brake08.jpgE-Brake09.jpg When you're done, you should have a pile of brackets...E-Brake10.jpg

    Step 3 - Shortening the cable sheaths
    The chassis end "fitting" (grey plastic) of the cable sheath is not glued/swedged/whatever on the end of the sheath.
    E-Brake11.jpg
    It is threaded onto the outer jacket, and is removeable (!). It is however Left-Hand thread. A really good grip on the sheath and a twist to the right will spin the fitting off the sheath (sorry, no detail pic of them off the cable).
    - Remove the ends and test fit the cable ends in the holes on the frame mounting tab. (I needed to file the holes a bit for them to snap in)
    - Remount the cables on the caliper end(s), and snake them cables through the frame, and through the mounting tab on the chassis.
    - In my instance, the DS side went through the bottom hole, PS through the top.

    Play around with this a bit, think about routing, clearance, smooth bends/radii, and potential hazards from suspension parts. Also consider locations on frame tubes for mounting a retainer clip or two for the cables.

    - When you've determined your routing, mark the cable sheaths at the point where they go through the frame tab holes, and remove.

    My cables wound up being 42" on the Driver's side, 36" on the Passenger
    Measured from here (caliper end): E-Brake12.jpg to here E-Brake13.jpgE-Brake14.jpg

    I recommend using a hacksaw with a 32 tpi blade to cut the cable sheaths. There's the outer jacket, the metal core, then the inner sleeve. Go easy on it and they cut through very cleanly.

    Re-install the grey end fittings on your newly shortened sheaths, and slide the inner cables back in. Install them on the car.
    Last edited by Fixit; 08-12-2018 at 07:14 AM.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  12. #132
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    40 Watt Garage - Mk4 Build - Mustang Rear Brakes & E-Brake Cables - Pt. 2

    I'm not too crazy about the "recommended" routing of the E-Brake cables under the main 4" frame cross-tube...
    (Knowing my luck, the 1st speed-bump or hunk of road debris I encounter will take out the cables)

    I can see why FFR suggests you route the cables under the frame tube - the radius of the frame tube sends the cables in a straight shot to the parking brake handle clevis for a nice clean pull on them - however this method induces a lot of friction in the mechanism.
    Here's my take on the pulley modification that's been done by many others...

    The route from the frame tab, under the proposed pulley mounting, to the handle clevis is not a straight line... there's a bit of a "kink" in the run.
    I needed robust, large diameter pulleys, but something with extended flanges to guide the cables, for 1/8" cable - enter the garage door repair parts aisle at Home Depot.

    E-Brake23.jpg

    With the pulleys in-hand, I measured the distance between the 4" frame tube, and the bracket on the 1x1 tube - split the difference and drilled a 3/8" hole through the tube. E-Brake16.jpg E-Brake17.jpg

    The through-bolt is a bit of custom work. I wanted to create a solid "axle" for the pulley hubs - not having threads where the hubs ride. I used an extra-long bolt with enough un-threaded shank for the hub area.
    - Slide the bolt through the frame
    - Slide the pulleys on, mark the shank at the edge of the pulley hub
    - Remove everything, and cut new threads to your mark
    - Reinstall everything, install the retaining nut, mark the bolt
    - Remove everything, cut the bolt and clean up the end/threads.
    - Reinstall the pulley assembly.
    E-Brake18.jpgE-Brake19.jpg (Sorry about the crappy pictures... my camera wants to focus on the floor, not the object)

    Here's where it gets interesting. You will have to install new crimped/swedged ends on the raw cable ends. There's a couple of options.

    - I used the FFR supplied clevis parts on the E-brake handle, and crimped new ends on the cables (In another life I did a lot of rigging/flying of pro-sound gear, and have access to the NicoPress tools to make these ends).
    - Imagineer a method, make a crimping die, and swedge the ends on yourself.
    - Purchase a crimping tool
    - Check for a local "Chain & Cable" or "Rigging" supplier. Bring your cables to them and have ends installed.
    - Look for a non-crimp cable end device. Many guys have used something from Lokar.

    E-Brake20.jpg I slid the cables through the clevis, marked them, cut them, and crimped on new ends.

    E-Brake21.jpg The completed job. (I'm thinking about putting a "skid plate" between the clevis and bracket. The pull isn't quite straight, and a plate would give a smoother slide surface for the clevis than the head of the carriage bolt)

    **Note** The passenger side floor/tunnel tin will need a divot dimpled in to clear the bolt head so it'll fit flush.
    Last edited by Fixit; 08-12-2018 at 07:29 AM.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  13. #133
    edwardb's Avatar
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    Nice job with the e-brake pulley mod. I don't care for the cables routed under the frame either. Although if you're hitting them like you mentioned, you have bigger problems than the cables. Way too close. You mentioned the Lokar S-8078 clevis some of have used. It helps with an improved angle and also clamps the cables so they don't have to be swaged. But what you did looks great. I don't know about your brakes, but the Wilwoods I used on my setup don't require much cable movement. Basically just tightening the cables and the e-brake engages. I suspect most don't move too much. The pulleys are mainly routing the cable as much as they are turning. Same with the clevis area moving over the head of that carriage bolt.

    I am a little nervous about your placement of the Tilton reservoirs. You need to keep the area clear starting at 11 inches in front of the intersection of the 3/4-inch rail and the footbox. The hood gas strut and bracket will drop into that area. Also, I've found the caps shouldn't be more than about 1/4-inch above the top of the 3/4-inch rail. Otherwise they may interfere with the hood. Hard to tell from your pictures, but looks like you may be close on both accounts. Something to check.

    Your build is looking great. Lots of good work and informative build thread.
    Last edited by edwardb; 08-12-2018 at 06:43 PM.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  14. #134
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    As you've described using the Wilwood brakes, the Mustang brakes only take about 3 clicks and the E-Brake is engaged like a rock. (Enough to where I could install & torque my driveshaft adapter on the pinion hub and NOTHING moved!

    Tilton Reservoir.
    Yup... I discovered a dyslexia moment in my calculations and template for the bracket. It does sit too "proud" of the 3/4" upper tube, and I should kick it "inboard" about a half inch. Oh well, nothing wasted but some sheetgoods, a few rivets/nutserts - It'll do for bleeding and karting.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  15. #135
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    40 Watt Garage - Mk4 Build - Hydraulic Clutch Pedal Stop Bracket pt.1

    I don't know if FFR has changed the layout of the frame tube in the pedalbox area on recent kits.
    Many of the earlier build threads have detailed a modification to the upper 3/4" frame tube for clutch pedal clearance - where you cut the tube, and graft on another piece creating a "void" for the last bit of pedal travel.

    I'm using the Forte hydraulic clutch setup and the FFR supplied Wilwood pedals. In my particular instance the clutch pedal lever contacts the 3/4" frame tube with only about 1/8" of travel left to go (and about 1/2" clearance to the front footbox wall). I'll give up 1/8" travel in exchange for not cutting/splicing the frame tube!

    This exchange warrants some type of positive stop for the pedal arm. I don't want to contact the frame tube, nor use the cylinder piston as my travel stop. Here's what I came up with...

    Started out with some barley pop case cardboard for a template and made two, 1" squares on it. You need to determine the angle of the down tube in relation to "square" of the pedal assembly. Where the frame tube joins the main 2x2 dash crossbar (near the door hinge) is where I calculated from. This isn't brain science or rocket surgery, you're just making a stout bracket.
    StopBlock01.jpgStopBlock02.jpgStopBlock03.jpg

    Once the basic shape was established on the template, some mounting slots were cut out, and those were transferred to the 3/4" down tube. Spend a bit of time here, making sure the pedal arm contacts your bracket just before it would hit the frame tube. Mark the frame tube with the bracket slots outlines.
    StopBlock04.jpgStopBlock05.jpgStopBlock06.jpgStopBlock07.jpgStopBlock08.jpg

    (no pic) - I drilled the frame tube for 10-32 NutSerts. The holes were placed in the center of the bracket slots for maximum adjustment travel.
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  16. #136
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    40 Watt Garage - Mk4 Build - Hydraulic Clutch Pedal Stop Bracket pt.2

    The next step was to transfer the template to some steel. I had a chunk of 3/16 mild steel plate in the scrapbox.

    The shape was scribed on the plate, some holes drilled, and over to the bandsaw for cutting (this could easily be done with a jigsaw or handsaw as well...). After cutting the edges were eased/deburred, a trip to the blast cabinet for cleanup, and a coat of primer applied. Once dry it was fitted on the car.

    StopBlock09.jpgStopBlock10.jpgStopBlock11.jpgStopBlock12.jpgStopBlock13.jpgStopBlock14.jpgStopBlock15.jpg
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  17. #137
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    40 Watt Garage - Mk4 Build - Coyote Clutch Position Switches pt. 1

    #9365 will be running a Gen 2 Coyote 5.0 courtesy of Mr. Forte.

    I haven't been closely following the Coyote install updates, but something was nagging at me about the clutch position switches - there was talk that Ford has eliminated the need for one of them. Whatever... I'll install both switches and if one isn't needed it'll just be along for the ride.

    FFR provides some beautiful laser-cut brackets for the FoMoCo switches that come in the Controls Pack kit for the Coyote...
    However (isn't there always a "however"??) FFR hasn't addressed the needs for a builder that's using a hydraulic clutch. FFR's bracket for the "gray" bottom-travel switch is designed for a cable clutch car.

    (There are no modifications needed for the "black" top-travel switch. Install this switch as described in the assembly manual. (I drilled and tapped the adjustment holes for 8-32 machine screws, but the provided self-tappers are fine... OCD machinist moment)).

    Modifying the FFR provided "gray" bottom-travel switch bracket(s) for a juice-clutch car:

    Switch Mounting:
    Snap the switch into the FFR bracket, and install it on the pedal box as described in the manual. Snug it down in the middle of it's adjustment range. Mark the switch plunger shaft where it's fully seated/engaged.

    GraySwitch_01.jpgGraySwitch_02.jpgGraySwitch_03.jpg

    Actuator Bracket:
    My idea here was to use the protruding "nub" of the clutch pedal clevis pivot as the anchor point for the bracket. A 2nd smaller point would be used for a hold-down.
    Get the FFR "actuator" bracket (for the cable clutch setup). You'll need to do some layout work.

    GraySwitch_04.jpg

    Project a line down from the "contact pad" of the bracket down onto the oval shape. I just used a straight-edge on the pad, slid it down onto the oval, and scribed. Then scribe a 2nd line perpendicular to this, through the center of the original hole, off the end of the oval.

    GraySwitch_05.jpg

    This is where it gets a little difficult, and you'll need your "X-Ray Specs" from the cereal box.
    You're going to need to SWAG where the center of the clevis pivot pin winds up on the switch attachment bracket when the clutch pedal is fully depressed. Make a mark on the bracket where this point is.

    GraySwitch_06.jpg

    With the clutch pedal fully depressed, hold the FFR bracket in place against the switch - pushing it in fully. Using your previous mark, transfer the pivot pin location to the oval part of the bracket. You need to be as accurate as possible here, keeping the bracket parallel and perpendicular.

    GraySwitch_07.jpg

    Back on the bench, finish your intersecting line on the oval part

    GraySwitch_09.jpgGraySwitch_08.jpg

    The pivot pin is 3/8". Get ready for the scary part... next post "Pt. 2".
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  18. #138
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    40 Watt Garage - Mk4 Build - Coyote Clutch Position Switches pt. 2

    On my car, the new hole needed for the clevis pivot pin "nub" wound up leaving only about 1/16" of meat between it and the original hole.
    This is where it gets a bit scary, as you don't want to tear-out this little bit when drilling.
    I recommend you sneak up on the final size.
    Start with a 5/16, then step up through the drill index to 3/8". Go Slow, use some oil/cutting fluid, and make as clean a hole as you can.
    GraySwitch_10.jpg

    From the center of your new 3/8" hole, mark and drill a 3/16" hole, 9/16" aft/rearward on the oval. This will be your attachment hole for the mounting screw.
    GraySwitch_11.jpg

    Remove the clevis from the top of the clutch pedal arm and actuator rod. Be careful with the snap-ring or you'll find out why they also call them "Jesus Clips" (don't ask me how I know). Slide the pin through your bracket and into the clevis. Mark the clevis for drilling.
    GraySwitch_12.jpg

    Drill the clevis for a 10-32 hole (#21), and cut threads into the clevis.
    GraySwitch_13.jpg

    Reassemble the clevis and actuator rod back onto the pedal arm (You get a 2nd chance to find out why they call them "Jesus Clips", unless you bought a spare from the previous chance)
    GraySwitch_14.jpg

    Using a 10-32 x 1/2" machine screw, a small flat washer (shim), and a drop of Loctite, install your new bracket onto the clutch pedal clevis. You'll see how the bracket registers over the pivot pin "nub", the washer takes up the difference, and it locks down tight.
    GraySwitch_15.jpgGraySwitch_16.jpgGraySwitch_17.jpg

    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

  19. #139
    edwardb's Avatar
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    Nice work and detail. Couple comments.

    No question FFR has changed the frame or the pedal box location or something to eliminate the frame interference with the clutch pedal. I guarantee those of us who dealt with that weren't cutting the frame, notching something, or whatever to gain 1/8-inch. The clutch arm was hitting with several inches of clutch travel remaining. The remaining 1/8-inch will easily be offset by insulation, carpet, etc. So effectively there's no interference. Glad to see confirmation that's really been fixed. Your stop looks good. Where it's positioned, or even if needed, will be determined by your clutch setup and mainly the master cylinder/slave cylinder combination. You want the maximum clutch pedal movement possible while still not driving the slave beyond it's rated travel. I've found that with the right combination, even with the pedal pushed hard against the back of the footbox, the master isn't against the stops and the slave hasn't exceeded its rated travel. Your stop hopefully allows as much travel as possible. Less travel = increased effort.

    For the Coyote clutch switches, I've seen from multiple build threads and also from looking at the most current Gen 2 instructions (Ford and Factory Five) that the top clutch switch has been eliminated with the 2017 version. Nice work on the bottom clutch switch to make the FFR cable setup brackets work with the hydraulic clutch. Will be doing something similar with my Coupe build.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014.
    Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. #7750 Build Thread
    Build 3: Mk4 Roadster 20th Anniversary #8674. 03 of 20. 2015 crate Coyote, 2015 IRS. Legal 04/18/2017. #8674 Build Thread
    Build 4: Gen 3 Type 65 Coupe #59. Delivered 12/2/2017. #59 Coupe Build Thread

  20. #140
    Senior Member
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    Jan 2018
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Nice work and detail. Couple comments.

    No question FFR has changed the frame or the pedal box location or something to eliminate the frame interference with the clutch pedal. I guarantee those of us who dealt with that weren't cutting the frame, notching something, or whatever to gain 1/8-inch. The clutch arm was hitting with several inches of clutch travel remaining. The remaining 1/8-inch will easily be offset by insulation, carpet, etc. So effectively there's no interference. Glad to see confirmation that's really been fixed. Your stop looks good. Where it's positioned, or even if needed, will be determined by your clutch setup and mainly the master cylinder/slave cylinder combination. You want the maximum clutch pedal movement possible while still not driving the slave beyond it's rated travel. I've found that with the right combination, even with the pedal pushed hard against the back of the footbox, the master isn't against the stops and the slave hasn't exceeded its rated travel. Your stop hopefully allows as much travel as possible. Less travel = increased effort.

    For the Coyote clutch switches, I've seen from multiple build threads and also from looking at the most current Gen 2 instructions (Ford and Factory Five) that the top clutch switch has been eliminated with the 2017 version. Nice work on the bottom clutch switch to make the FFR cable setup brackets work with the hydraulic clutch. Will be doing something similar with my Coupe build.
    I am not as far along but my experience matches this, no meaningful interference with the wilwood clutch pedal.

  21. #141
    Junior Member
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    Dec 2017
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    I was wondering how I would mount the bottom clutch switch in my MK4 when I read John’s solution. After a bit more thought and lots of measurement, I believe its possible to switch out the clevis pin for a longer, 1”, pin, move the switch mount closer to its front limit and attach the actuator to the clevis using its existing 3/8” hole. I’ll still have to drill and tap for a small screw to keep the actuator from rotating but but it will be securily captured under the clevis pin retaining ring. I’ll let you know how it works out.
    https://www.mcmaster.com/#93890a149/=1e6u2bw

  22. #142
    Senior Member Fixit's Avatar
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    If I recall correctly I contemplated using the original hole before deciding upon drilling a new one.
    I think you'll run out of switch travel (it'll be buried) before the clutch pedal is fully depressed, and there's not enough slot in the mounting bracket to compensate...

    Check it out and let us know - it would save a bit of work!
    John D. - Minneapolis 'Burbs

    1965 El Camino - LT-1, 4L60e, 4wh discs, SC&C susp.
    2013 F-150 Platinum - Twin Turbo 3.5
    2018 Mk4 Roadster - #9365 Build Thread

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