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Thread: Exhaust dilemma

  1. #1
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    Exhaust dilemma

    The headers do not fit to the side pipes
    Passenger side...
    20200103_161422.jpg
    20200103_161430.jpg

  2. #2
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  3. #3
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    So, when I switch them around - the problem just mirrors.
    Gen3, 347 BluePrint

  4. #4
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    looks very similar to what I had with mine. FFR helped with some shims and spacers but in the end I replaced the exhaust system with "Quiet pipes" from Boig. They fit and tame the noise a little.
    David W
    Mkll 4874 built in 2004
    Gen 3 coupe #16 registered 2018 painted 2019

  5. #5
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    I have the same problem, gen 3, 306 Blueprint. Even if we can get them to fit, there's major obstruction in flow because the flange on the side pipes cover a great deal of the header pipes. I'm trying to construct my own side pipes based on 4" corvette pipes mated to 4" elbows and some custom flanges I had made at emachine shop. I had the pipes on without the body - they are pretty loud. I don't see any reasonable way to make them fit once the body is installed, even with Breeze spacers.

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    I pretty much expected these answers, hoped that there will be an 'easy fix'. Thank you guys for the fast reply. I'll shorten the headers and create a 4 inch 'box'. At least I can place the side pipes exactly where they need to be and the O2 sensor gets a good spot too. The pontoon covers from Russ will hide the coupler....
    C-ya on the road!

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    4" flanges/elbows using Doug's Corvette side-pipes and inserts - nice to be able to tune the level of 'community outreach' by swapping out the cores.

    Dave

    Gen III #17
    Attached Images Attached Images

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  10. #8
    Waiting for my 65 Coupe nskaats's Avatar
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    I decided to build my own after looking at the build quality on the FFR pipes. I would be willing to bet those pipes will cost me 50 hp at minimum if I try to run them. Order some aftermarket pipes or fab your own.
    --Nick Skaats--
    Gen 3 Coupe #80 - LS1/T56 - SCCA Bound
    Link To Album For Updates

  11. #9
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    This is really problematic. How can you expect people to spend more money to correct FFRs issue? That said FFR in my experience will stand behind they’re product. I think you should talk to them. Let us know what they say.

  12. #10
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    When I posted pictures of the Gas-N Gen 3 Coupe headers and side pipes I'm using on my Coupe build (another option) I received a message from Factory Five that they have a new version of the Gen 3 Coupe side pipes with the ball swivel header setup like they're showing also for the Roadster here: https://youtu.be/zxdKAniNNhw?t=341. Don't know if they're available yet. But Factory Five knows those original steel Coupe pipes leave something to be desired.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave Tabor View Post
    4" flanges/elbows using Doug's Corvette side-pipes and inserts - nice to be able to tune the level of 'community outreach' by swapping out the cores.

    Dave

    Gen III #17
    hey Dave are these the ones you're talking about? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/d...-b?seid=srese1

    and assuming it is just a pair of 4" flanges and a weld on 90 degree bend?

    I absolutely dispise the look and sound of the quad pipes and have been looking for a more economical option than the Boig/others without having to go full custom.

    Thanks!

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    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ProJoe View Post
    I absolutely dispise the look and sound of the quad pipes...
    Quad pipes?
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwardb View Post
    Quad pipes?
    the duals on each side of the car.

    quad.

  17. #14
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ProJoe View Post
    the duals on each side of the car.

    quad.
    Got it. Hadn't heard it expressed that way. But OK. They are authentic to the original and are part of the distinctive look of the Daytona Coupe IMO. But to each his own. As we say, it's your build so make it the way you want. But the steel pipes from Factory Five, aside from appearance, are insanely loud. I didn't use them on my build either.
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  18. #15
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    oh I totally respect anyone that wants to do it that way, build how you want to. Personally I just vehemently dislike the sound and appreciate other options.

    IMO it makes the car sound flat. loud, but flat

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    [QUOTE=ProJoe;394398]hey Dave are these the ones you're talking about? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/d...-b?seid=srese1

    and assuming it is just a pair of 4" flanges and a weld on 90 degree bend?


    Yes, that's the pipes and you can choose a set of inserts as well - ones from Doug's or Hooker will work in the 4" side-pipes- I bet they re identical.

    4" flanges seemed to be the best result in not blocking each of the 4 header-out tubes 'too' much and at least they are all blocked equally. I don't have a pic handy of how much is blocked- maybe 1/5 the area of each. It's just a 4" elbow cut to make 2 ~90-degree bends, then cut/welded to get the angles/clocking right - welded from the inside- looks clean.

    The changeable inserts are the best part- I have 3 pairs. The 'reverse-flow' inserts are quiet enough to drive the car without earplugs or wake the family/neighbors- but you can feel the power loss. The full-flow inserts are loud- I'd say not as loud as the FFR pipes and the car really rips compared to the reverse-flow inserts. The medium glasspacks are sort of in the middle. Still sub-$1000 in parts, but who's saving money at this point...

    Dave
    Gen III #17
    carb'd 302, TKO600, IRS

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  21. #17
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    From the other forum which I will no longer be posting on:

    https://www.ffcars.com/threads/new-s.../#post-6081934

    I'll be doing some more dB testing as well as 3rd-gear pulls using a dragy to try to get a feel for the power loss with the more restrictive/quiet inserts. I can say that by the seat-of-the-pants that I can feel the difference between the three inserts- and my butt is calibrated to about a 20 hp minimum- like adding a 200 lb passenger-you can tell...

    Dave

  22. #18
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    Dave, I'm using the Doug's side pipes too. If you don't mind sharing - how did you attach hanger(s) for the pipes to chassis? Thanks,
    Mike

  23. #19
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    Mike,

    Attached is a pic of how I'm supporting the pipes at the rear.

    I have a grade 8 bolt with spacers sticking out, acting like stud to which I can hang the pipes.
    The bolt goes through one of the diagonal side-bars in the door sill area.

    I had this setup when I was running Flowmaster Slimlines and they just happen to line up with one of the Doug's mounting tabs.
    Key for me was to be able to drop the pipes quickly and this works- I can swap cores in about 5 mins per side.

    Eventually, I'll move to one of the rubber mounts pictured- welded directly to the Doug's pipe or welded to a 4" bracket as shown- just to get some rubber/flex in there. It's nice to be able to clock/adjust them via the bracket.

    Dave
    Attached Images Attached Images

  24. #20
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    Thank you Dave, I appreciate it.
    Mike

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    So now im alittle concerned. I havnt even tried my side pipes from FFR on my #50 Gen 3. FFR supplied the headers for my 1965 289. I guess i can probably expect some issues also with that too.


    car 7.jpg

  26. #22
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    Try them out.

    My FFR header and pipe combo fit with a couple of wedge-shims.

    I did not have the big gap like earlier pics in this thread.
    I'd also say, push the pipes toward the body a bit further and/or add a spacer.

    My engine is a Ford Racing 302.

    Dave
    #17

  27. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Automan View Post
    So now im alittle concerned. I havnt even tried my side pipes from FFR on my #50 Gen 3. FFR supplied the headers for my 1965 289. I guess i can probably expect some issues also with that too.
    Just by looking at your PA side headers ... you are in the same boat. Hold them on and report back - thanks.

  28. #24
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    So, here is my fix:
    Got 4 exhaust 4in1 collectors (for 1 7/8" pipe) and 4 3/8" exhaust flanges. First task was to shorten the BBK headers and weld the flanges on.
    1.jpg
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    4.jpg
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    • File Type: jpg 2.jpg (1.11 MB, 103 views)

  29. #25
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    Next was to mount the headers and bring the side pipes where they need to be. Measure and cut the collectors, weld flange 3 and 4 on both, tack weld, check, recheck and weld them. The collectors on the pipe side were directly welded on the exhaust to have full flow.
    5.jpg
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    9.jpg
    Last edited by G-Pete; 01-14-2020 at 09:25 PM.

  30. #26
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    I'm very happy with the position, distance to body and angle of the pipes. On the 'left overs' I will shorten these by 3/4" and weld flanges on. These stay in reserve if I go a different route with the pipes. That brings the outer flange to the original location.
    10.jpg
    11.jpg

  31. #27
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    PS: The whole fix was less than $130.

  32. #28
    Senior Member edwardb's Avatar
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    Very nice work. The fit looks great.
    Build 1: Mk3 Roadster #5125. Sold 11/08/2014. Build 2: Mk4 Roadster #7750. Sold 04/10/2017. Build Thread
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  33. #29
    East Coast Speed Machines Erik W. Treves's Avatar
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    Nice job! Looks really good! I think they actually might be a bit quieter with that "pre-merge" collector in there - so you will enjoy that aspect of it as well!
    FFR 1879, Blown DSS 306,REDLINE management, VeryCoolParts Tuned 460RWHP

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  34. #30
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    You sir are a genius!

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    [QUOTE=G-Pete;395576]So, here is my fix:
    Got 4 exhaust 4in1 collectors (for 1 7/8" pipe) and 4 3/8" exhaust flanges. First task was to shorten the BBK headers and weld the flanges on.


    looks awesome!!! Well Done!! Where did you get the collectors and flanges from?

    Nelson

  36. #32
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    The collectors came from Summit and the flanges were laser cut - buddy of mine.

  37. #33
    Top Notch Builder P100DHG's Avatar
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    I saw the need for this and ask FFR to send me come with my kit. FFR sent me some flanges. Call FFR.

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