I could not resist working on the car to find out why the 4 way flashers were not working. First thing, in the manual it says to cut the horn and flasher leads from the steering column. Why would you not want those functions to work from the steering column? Beyond me.
I found out the flasher socket in the Ron Francis is not making connection on one side. I bypassed the socket with some wires and spade connectors. Now they work. That is the second problem I found with the Ron Francis wiring harness. I'm not confident of that part from FFR!
When wiring the headlights to use the daytime running light, the front lights will not flash unless the key is on. I don't know if that is a problem with state inspection. I will check with my son as he is a state inspector.
Yup they have to work with the key off. Well I'll have to use my electronics background to solve this one. A few diodes. Parts on order.
On the head light there are the green and red wires. The red is for the DRL (white) and green for directional (amber). However for the amber to work 12 volts needs to be applied to the red wire also. So I wired up some diodes to both allow voltage from the green wire but block that voltage from feeding back thru the brown wire which I changed in the wiring harness to the electric choke circuit, which was connected to the red wire. The diodes I got were off Ebay 6A2. A bit over kill.
Connect the two negative sides of the diodes together (the side marked with the gray line) and to the red wire after disconnecting the brown wire. The other end of one diode connects with the green and blue wire. The other end of the other diode connects to the brown wire that was disconnected from the red wire. It should look like the pictures. Disconnect the battery first! 100_2380.JPG100_2382.JPG
The 4 way flashers now work with key off/on and directional working fine.
Last edited by colsen23153; 12-06-2019 at 09:59 AM.
'33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.
Cliff,
With the Virginia registration replica laws, your requirements for inspection are only those of a 1933. It would definitely be worth reviewing the requirements for registration now. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...have-plates!!!
I have been working the past three days, setting the correct ride height. First try I could not get the front lower then about 5 3/4". Now I have been under the belief that the bottom set of mounting holes were for a standard car ride and the upper was for setting the race height. I found out that the lower holes are for the truck and upper for the 33. I mounted EVERYTHING in the lower holes. So now that the car is almost complete I have to change all the control arms, upper/lower control arms, etc after everything is mounted and in the way. I changed the front and without adjusting the springs yet, I am just above 4". I ran into a few problems with the rear. It's 4 link and I was able to get the upper control arms moved after removing the back half of the exhaust. Also the e-brake cables were in the way. I could not get the lower control arms until I removed the drive shaft. After that it sat down and is a tad lower then 5". I'm measuring from the frame to ground. Now to adjust the shocks and I'll be all done. The drive shaft is still hiting the frame when the frame is lifted and the rear droops. Not a good thing to have. Second thing I noticed was the camber of the passenger side is way off. I had adjusted the front end when it was much higher. So now I have to redo the front end adjustments.
As I said, I'm almost ready to put the car on the road (title, reg. plates). Before I do I'm reading the instructions from page one and making sure I did everything correctly.
Last edited by colsen23153; 12-03-2019 at 10:08 AM.
'33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.
Those measurements jive with mine. I don’t think it’s reasonable to get the car as low as they want it. I additionally wound up with the coil overs in the lower position upfront so as to improve the control arm angle. Honestly, I don’t think it’s a simple as set it and forget it with these things. There are simply too many variables.
33 Hot Rod #1133. LS/TKO600
Delivered 6-17-19. Started work 7-3-19. First start 9-6-19. First drive 9-24-19
Titled 2-28-20
Cliff,
With the Virginia registration replica laws, your requirements for inspection are only those of a 1933. It would definitely be worth reviewing the requirements for registration now. https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...have-plates!!!
I am pretty sure Texas is the same. There were no 4-way flashers in 1933.
33 Hot Rod (Gen 1) Stage 1 delivered on 4/27/2017, Stage 2 delivered on 9/21/2018
LS3 495hp/480 lb. ft., 4L70E, Electric PS, Classic Auto Air, Lokar electronic sport shifter, 13 inch Wilwood front and 11.68 Cobra rear brakes, Ford 8.8 w 3.73 w 4 link, Billet Specialty Legend Series MAG wheels and Mickey Thompson
Sportsman S/R 26x8x18 front and 29x18x20 rear tires.
In setting the ride height, I found the rear shocks had to have the adjusting slider almost at the top of the black threaded part. I looked at some photos from the build school and they have the "C" clip in the upper position. So under the car I go again and with some cleaver jacking I moved the clip up and now the adjuster ring is mid way. 100_2384.JPG I like it this way.
I adjusted the ride height again and now it's 5" rear, 4.5" front. Just right.
The front passenger side camber was because one of the lower control arms was off just a bit. A full turn or two on the rear arm. A quick measurement with my incidence meter and it's about 6 degrees. OK for the ride to the shop for the alignment.
My next two projects are to install the water fall with the roll bar cut outs and finish with the dash wiring and heater duct. I'm installing a switch to allow my trans to lock the converter.
'33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.
Funny how we all wind up at the same conclusions. I did the same with the rear coil overs. My
ride height is slightly higher, but not much. My car will be at my shop in danville by New Years. Hopefully we can swap notes!
33 Hot Rod #1133. LS/TKO600
Delivered 6-17-19. Started work 7-3-19. First start 9-6-19. First drive 9-24-19
Titled 2-28-20
I thought about putting the Transmission Tunnel Cover in but it was too damn cold and damp. I think I have it figured out. The grommets that are on some of the cable bundles are not for the 33. They are used to go through the bulkheads of other models (roadster). So they get cut off and I will reuse them when I make my "C" cut in the tunnel top cover. Should be simple. I already changed the Lokar linkage to give me extra room. I have the gas pedal already mounted but I gave it some space for the cover. Hopefully the weather will be a bit warmer tomorrow. I am anxious to get this phase of the build over so I can contact the VA. State police and get myself a title.
'33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.
When I started to rivet the driveshaft aluminum cover I noticed a scraped ring around the driveshaft. Yup it's hitting the floor. It must have started after I adjusted the ride height. So I'm back some 5 months where I'm working on the trans mount and engine mounts. I changed to 4 link suspension to take away any axle angle questions. That was a few months ago. So it can only be the trans mount or engine mounts. I asked for help from FFR but they said to jack up the trans mount. You might remember all the problems I had with the exhaust. The trans mount/ engine mounts and exhaust system all interact with each other. Change one you change all 3. If I go up any more with the trans mount I will have the trans pointing up. It was level before. So I am at a confusing stand still now until I come up with a solution. I don't know where to go from here.
'33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.
When I started to rivet the driveshaft aluminum cover I noticed a scraped ring around the driveshaft. Yup it's hitting the floor. It must have started after I adjusted the ride height. So I'm back some 5 months where I'm working on the trans mount and engine mounts. I changed to 4 link suspension to take away any axle angle questions. That was a few months ago. So it can only be the trans mount or engine mounts. I asked for help from FFR but they said to jack up the trans mount. You might remember all the problems I had with the exhaust. The trans mount/ engine mounts and exhaust system all interact with each other. Change one you change all 3. If I go up any more with the trans mount I will have the trans pointing up. It was level before. So I am at a confusing stand still now until I come up with a solution. I don't know where to go from here.
I had a similar issue with a Chevy and TKO with the 3-link rear. I ended up with limit straps to prevent contact, then tweaked to transmission mount to get it as low as possible. So, at this point I think I can get everything OK. Still adjusting ride height and Pinion angle, but I'm quite close.
Well it has been some time since my last post. It's been cold but with the change in the weather I have been able to accomplish many things on my to do list. FFR says the drive shaft will hit the floor under the trans. tunnel so I'm not going to do anything now until it become a problem.
The trans tunnel is in. It's not flush with the aluminum between the firewall and floor. I tried every way possible to get to flush but no luck. I installed the drivers seat with the jeep slider. What a job getting all the holes to align. I took care of some wiring that involves the A/C and EFI. I used a SPDT relay to wire up the WOT signal from the EFI to kill the A/C. Also turning on the radiator fan when the A/C compressor comes on. After putting the trans cover on I cleaned up some messy wiring. The dash is back in. I worked on the drivers door latch. It was working but not smooth enough for me. I found out if I tightened the latch to the door the latch would bind. I had to leave it just a bit loose.
So tomorrow I'm installing the passenger seat and the waterfall.
I'm also getting the paper work ready to send to DMV next week. I can't wait until it's registered, insured and has plates on. I started the motor up just for the hell of it! Sounds great.
'33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.
Today I worked on the drivers side of the trans tunnel. It was not laying flush up against the firewall and floor. I cut off the piece that would mate to the floor and fabricated a aluminum piece to cover the side. I'm using Gorilla tape to join all the seams around that area of the trans tunnel. Looks better now and I will only know what happened there as it is covered with insulation and carpet.
At build school they made a bracket for mounting the accelerator pedal that raises it a inch or so above the floor. I'm going to remount it with a coupling nut. Should be just as good.
Tomorrow I'll lay down the insulation and get that damn waterfall in. Any suggestions on how to locate the roll bar holes?
Last edited by colsen23153; 02-24-2020 at 09:27 PM.
'33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.
There are a number of build threads with ideas on how to locate the roll bar holes. The easiest IMO is a low tech solution I've seen used a number of times in threads dating back years. Have a look at post 71 of Tom's build for his wife https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...allace18/page2
Steve
Gen 1 '33 Hot Rod #1104
347 with Holley Sniper & Hyperspark, TKO600, IRS, 245/40R18 & 315/30R18, DRL, Digital Guard Dog keyless Ignition
There are a number of build threads with ideas on how to locate the roll bar holes. The easiest IMO is a low tech solution I've seen used a number of times in threads dating back years. Have a look at post 71 of Tom's build for his wife https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...allace18/page2
Steve
Good idea! I'll use that method. Thanks Steve.
'33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.
May I also suggest you get a pair of these 3" Grommet Seals from Seals-It (https://sealsit.com/product/3-grommet-seal/), I will be using one that has a 1-1/4" hole in it, this way it stretch around the pipe and will cover any over sized hole and it will also seal around the pipe, keeping the finish clean. When I install the waterfall I will slide the grommet on the roll bar first and then align and bend the ring plate into place onto the waterfall (protecting the paint on the waterfall with tape, then go ahead and screw it down onto the waterfall. 3in Grommet for Roll Bar from Seals-It.JPG
Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
Andreas
Thanks for that bit if info AJT, I just found them on Amazon w/free shipping.
'33 Hotrod, #1047 Gen 1, delivered on 2/27/18, go cart on 9/24/18.
LS3 w/Gearstar Level 3 4L65e Tranny, Yank converter, Lokar shifter, Electric PS, Vintage AC/Heat/Def, 8.8" 3.55
TorqThrust II Wheels w/Toyo Proxy T1 Sport Tires, F 235/45ZR17 R 295/35ZR18
Garage Built, Driveway Painted.
Thanks for that bit if info AJT, I just found them on Amazon w/free shipping.
No worries, I'll be prepping and painting the aluminum trim on mine satin black to match the water fall.
Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
Andreas
It has been a few weeks since my last real progress post. I have been taking care of all the little things that have to be done to complete the car. I finally took care of the EFI wiring for the fan control and the A/C kill function. I can say the wiring is done!
At build school the instructor made a gas pedal bracket which raises the pedal off the floor by a few inches. I mentioned it a few posts ago. I used 1/4-20 coupling nuts to duplicate this bracket. Worked out fine. Gas pedal is now just below the brake pedal. 100_2427.JPG100_2428.JPG
I also finished putting down the sound/heat pads. 100_2433.JPG
I think I'm a week away from having the car derivable. Small things like mirrors, seats & carpet. So I'm going to concentrate filling out the documents for VDOT and sending them off.
'33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.
With regard to the process, I submitted my paperwork January 25. They issued title about a week ago and I got a call from the state police vin inspector today. I will be fully registered and licensed tomorrow 3/5.
I sent them a check for about $1400 for taxes, invoices for complete kit, motor, transmission, and rear end and a Carfax for the salvage title on the engine that was the donor for my car. There’s a good thread with Virginia registration information that is exactly correct. I did not have any additional paperwork to do, no additional fees to pay....Just had to be super patient.
33 Hot Rod #1133. LS/TKO600
Delivered 6-17-19. Started work 7-3-19. First start 9-6-19. First drive 9-24-19
Titled 2-28-20
With regard to the process, I submitted my paperwork January 25. They issued title about a week ago and I got a call from the state police vin inspector today. I will be fully registered and licensed tomorrow 3/5.
I sent them a check for about $1400 for taxes, invoices for complete kit, motor, transmission, and rear end and a Carfax for the salvage title on the engine that was the donor for my car. There’s a good thread with Virginia registration information that is exactly correct. I did not have any additional paperwork to do, no additional fees to pay....Just had to be super patient.
Good to know. I'll look for the Virginia registration and follow it. You just have a vin # and registration. Now you have to get the plate? When did you get your insurance? How much did you cay the car weigh?
'33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.
I have registration and title complete. The officer that visited today verified Vin on the frame and on the motor. He submits his paperwork to Richmond online today and they will process it on Monday morning. I can go pick up license plates after 2 o’clock Monday. I have insurance through Hagerty. They insure 4 of my cars and my trailer. The car costs about $300 insured for 40k.
The car weighs 2272.
33 Hot Rod #1133. LS/TKO600
Delivered 6-17-19. Started work 7-3-19. First start 9-6-19. First drive 9-24-19
Titled 2-28-20
Thanks sethmark just the info I needed. I'll get started today.
'33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.
Major step accomplished today. I sent off the forms to DMV and now I wait. Actually I need to put in the carpet, bolt the seats in and install the mirrors.
'33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.
How did you guys bend and attach the inside door panels? Is that double sided tape in the box? Use that?
'33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.
Bent with my knee. Attached with trim screws in kit. Pre drill for ease.
I didn't see the trim screws. I'll check box 9 anain. Thanks
The inside of the doors is very thin. Rivnuts would make a mess. If I don't find the trim screws I'll get them locally.
Last edited by colsen23153; 03-11-2020 at 07:14 PM.
'33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.
I used rivnuts (10-32 I think) but bought the rivnuts made for plastic and fiberglass. They expand much larger and seem to hold fine. Also used them for the waterfall.
Last edited by colsen23153; 03-14-2020 at 02:14 PM.
'33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.
I used rivnuts (10-32 I think) but bought the rivnuts made for plastic and fiberglass. They expand much larger and seem to hold fine. Also used them for the waterfall.
I have used the 10-32 rivnuts for the dash. The inside panel is thick and hard to shape to the inside door. I'll work on it tomorrow and use the #8 screws FFR provided. If they pull out I'll just use the same mounting holes for the rixnuts for plastic.
'33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.
Yesterday I worked on the waterfall and rollbar. I used the suggestion from FF33rod and used the method by wallace18. Namely drilling holes in a piece of plywood strip that fits the roll bar width. I put that on top of the rear of the car and secured it with straps. I marked the board and car with markers so I could remove it and install the waterfall. I just used a felt tip marker to follow the inside of the holes and mark the waterfall. I cut the holes with my reciprocal saw. I then used a tool like a Dremal sander to finish it off.
They didn't ship me the quick release clips, they sent me door latch levers instead. A email to FFR and the correct part will ship next week.
Last edited by colsen23153; 03-14-2020 at 09:19 PM.
'33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.
Yesterday I worked on the waterfall and rollbar. I used the suggestion from FF33rod and used the method by wallace18. Namely drilling holes in a piece of plywood strip that fits the roll bar width. I put that on top of the rear of the car and secured it with straps. I marked the board and car with markers so I could remove it and install the waterfall. I just used a felt tip marker to follow the inside of the holes and mark the waterfall. I cut the holes with my reciprocal saw. I then used a tool like a Dremal sander to finish it off.
I'm trying to install the Right Cockpit Rear upper cover panel and I can't get it to fit even without the weather striping on it. Anybody else have the same problem?
'33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.
I'm trying to install the Right Cockpit Rear upper cover panel and I can't get it to fit even without the weather striping on it. Anybody else have the same problem?
I will be doing mine tonight and fully expect to have to trim it to fit correctly, I will post tomorrow if we get them in. Which seal did you use on the edge as they don't show which one to use?? I am assuming right now its the same seal as the top of the trunk vertical plates? 20200222_153026.jpg This is the one I am thinking of and cannot remember how much I have left.
Black & Copper #1028 ("The Mistress" according to my wife! )
Brought home: Nov. 2017, GoKart: May 2018, will be Plated & on the Road April 2020
Andreas
I will be doing mine tonight and fully expect to have to trim it to fit correctly, I will post tomorrow if we get them in. Which seal did you use on the edge as they don't show which one to use?? I am assuming right now its the same seal as the top of the trunk vertical plates? 20200222_153026.jpg This is the one I am thinking of and cannot remember how much I have left.
AJT'33 I can see the difference between my car and yours. As in the picture from the book the piece fits over the door hinge. On Gen II that cross bar goes below the top of the door hinge. Gen II rear cockpit.JPG
So I believe yours will fit. I ran out of weather striping also. I would think it is the same used in the trunk.
I have a message into FFR tech. Dan about this problem. Looks like they will have to make a different piece.
Dan got back with me about this piece. It's only for Gen I not Gen II and they don't have a replacement part. It's a shame they didn't go thru all the parts and see what has to change for the Gen II.
Cliff
Last edited by colsen23153; 03-21-2020 at 09:41 AM.
'33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.
In post #185 I mentioned that I sent off the necessary paperwork and check to VDMV. I was so excited that in a few weeks after that I would have the '33 on the road. No such luck. 3 days after DMV received my package the Governor closed all DMV's. So I am placed on indefinite hold. I completed everything to get it on the road except the carpet and seats. The seats have already been in. All that is needed is to cut the holes in the carpet and bolt them in.
My birthday is 4/12 and I was hoping to have it done them.
Life has a way of changing everything. I have to fight myself to work on the car. I just don't see the reason now.
'33 Hot Rod Chassis #1118, Gen 2, hard top, bike fenders, AC, electric steering. BluePrint Engines Chevy 383 Fuel Injected with the 700R4 transmission 8.8" rear 3.55.