Marsha's Gen-1 33 build by Wallace18

[wallace18]

It has nothing to do with gen-1 or 2 it is the 4R70W uses a different yoke than FFR offers on their drive shafts. FFR currently does not offer a drive shaft with the correct yoke.

[wallace18]

I got a new CPP master cylinder from Summit. Neat unit it has a built in adjustable rear brake pressure regulator. I adjusted the stroke on the booster rod as well as changed the angle of the booster and brake pedal so now everything works perfectly. Not sure if the previous owner got all the right stuff from Jeff. I was able to modify it to work for me. All I have left is front alignment then I go-cart!

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[wallace18]

Had a great Morning! I finished up the front end alignment and took the 33 out for a test drive. We live in a rural neighborhood that has many roads and is basically empty of cars when everyone is at work. Car drove perfect, ran 190 all the time. Good oil pressure and transmission shifts great. I love driving go-cart stage. This thing is like driving a sprint car. Instant throttle response. Very pleased other that I think this one is faster than my 35 P/U, LOL. Here is short video.

[TxMike64]

I got a new CPP master cylinder from Summit. Neat unit it has a built in adjustable rear brake pressure regulator.

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I'm planning on using the Whitbey power brake setup, but one thing that I've never liked was the extreme angle of the mounting. So I had been thinking about making my own setup using a similar CPP MC and making my own firewall bracket.

cpp 7sbmcb1.jpg

Did you use Jeff's booster or the CPP booster? Looks like a single 7". And I'll have to figure out the pushrod as well.

[wallace18]

I'm planning on using the Whitbey power brake setup, but one thing that I've never liked was the extreme angle of the mounting. So I had been thinking about making my own setup using a similar CPP MC and making my own firewall bracket.

cpp 7sbmcb1.jpg

Did you use Jeff's booster or the CPP booster? Looks like a single 7". And I'll have to figure out the pushrod as well.

I modified Jeff's mount. I used his booster as well. I think I may try to make my own P/B kit next time.

[Olli]

Wallace, very off topic question here. How wide is your driveway?

Olli

[wallace18]

Wallace, very off topic question here. How wide is your driveway?

Olli

12' wide Works well for burn outs!, LOL.

[wallace18]

Getting chassis ready for body to go on. Do yourself a favor and glue the brass bushings in place for the doors. You will thank me when you put the doors on and off a few times during the build. Ask me how I know, LOL. This is my 3rd 33 build.

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[wallace18]

Had time today to build a body buck. I have a universal base that I have used for GTM, 818, Type65 and 33.I just make the rest as I need. I have a dedicated buck just for MK4's. I mocked up area for cowl openings. Gen-2 guys do not have to do the cowl openings due to the removable dash front. There is some work you can do before putting the body on the chassis. You can do the cowl openings, dash cutouts, tail lights holes, clearance the trunk opening for the lid and seal and A/C vent holes. I also will coat the underside with truck bed liner before installing on chassis.

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[wallace18]

Had a good day today. I had to break out my propane torpedo heater today. 40 degrees this morning in FL. It will be 30 and 28 next 2 mornings, BRRRRR! I was able to install some nutserts for the cowl openings and engine turned the covers. I also mocked up the tail lights. I trimmed the trunk opening. If you do not do this you may have problems closing the lid. I trim the edge to 5/16" and then use a belt sander to make sure the thickness is correct for mounting the trunk seal. If the edge is too thick the seal won't install properly. I finished up doing all my dash holes. Instruments, A/C controls, A/C vents, light switch, Hi/LO beam switch, ignition switch and aux. fan switch. Hope to cover the underside with Bed-liner on Wednesday.

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[FF33rod]

You're moving quickly. 5/16" is quite the difference from the 3/4" that the manual states. Good pointer on the thickness...

[wallace18]

You're moving quickly. 5/16" is quite the difference from the 3/4" that the manual states. Good pointer on the thickness...

I tried the 3/4 once and the lower rear drivers side corner was hitting the raised part of the trunk lid and would not let it sit down flush. Just something I ran into on 2 previous builds. You can always do 3/4" try fitting the trunk lid then trim as needed.

[wallace18]

Warmed up to a whopping 56 here today, LOL. I did take the body off the buck and found some big bubbles and voids in the fiberglass. Not the first time I have seen this in an FFR kit but pretty bad here in the back. I will fill with Dura-Glass down the road. I did have time to coat the underside of the body with HF bed-liner. I will let this dry for 48 Hours then hopefully start mounting the body Friday or next week. I am going to get checked out tomorrow for cataract surgery. Not sure how long I will be out of commission.

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[Aircontroller]

You'll be up and going in no time!

Warmed up to a whopping 56 here today, LOL. I did take the body off the buck and found some big bubbles and voids in the fiberglass. Not the first time I have seen this in an FFR kit but pretty bad here in the back. I will fill with Dura-Glass down the road. I did have time to coat the underside of the body with HF bed-liner. I will let this dry for 48 Hours then hopefully start mounting the body Friday or next week. I am going to get checked out tomorrow for cataract surgery. Not sure how long I will be out of commission.

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[Dodgeman]

That's what mine looks like, Voids and putty in every seam, some seams I will have to reglass from the inside, couple of seams are less than 1/8" thick. I've been working on it for 4-months now when time allows and i am home.
I'ts almost fustrating knowing that Factory Five lets this go out the door. What is their QA/QC doing, or do they even have a QA department?

Bob

[JOP33]

That's what mine looks like, Voids and putty in every seam, some seams I will have to reglass from the inside, couple of seams are less than 1/8" thick. I've been working on it for 4-months now when time allows and i am home.
I'ts almost fustrating knowing that Factory Five lets this go out the door. What is their QA/QC doing, or do they even have a QA department?

Bob

I had some similar issues with regards to my Hardtop...voids, weaknesses, cracks. I sent pics to FFR as it added about 30 - 40 hours to the body work...didn't get any response with this particular issue. Was extremely frustrated by the quality (again specifically on hardtop) and then doubly frustrated by no response.

[cob427sc]

Are you guys building Gen 1 or 2? Mine is a Gen 2 and it does not have anywhere near the body issues you have experienced. I will admit the door jamb near the hinges was a little thin, however this is not a structural point and only required a little touch up on the backside. I have been building FFR cars since 1998 and I can tell you the bodies are soooooo much better than they used to be in both finish and fit.

[wallace18]

Mine is in the title of the thread.

[wallace18]

Installed the body on the chassis today. I lower the body down with a winch I have mounted in my ceiling. First I attach the firewall then the rear wheel well bolts then the side area inside the door opening. I tap the frame side rails with a 10-32 tap and secure with 10-32 screws. I do not use any rivets to hold body on. This makes it easy to remove for paint later. I like the body in its proper place and secure before moving on. Then I do the door hinge cutouts.

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[FF33rod]

Tom, it just occurred to me that this kit you picked up is around the same vintage as mine - one of the last of the Gen1. As such, some changes were likely already made to the chassis. One of the items that a couple of us have found is that the striker mount location has been welded a couple of inches higher than older Gen1s. When we went to install the striker and get it to engage with the latch we couldn't get the striker low enough and FFR had to fab some different mount plates for us. Just fyi in case you run into the same issue.
Steve

[wallace18]

Tom, it just occurred to me that this kit you picked up is around the same vintage as mine - one of the last of the Gen1. As such, some changes were likely already made to the chassis. One of the items that a couple of us have found is that the striker mount location has been welded a couple of inches higher than older Gen1s. When we went to install the striker and get it to engage with the latch we couldn't get the striker low enough and FFR had to fab some different mount plates for us. Just fyi in case you run into the same issue.
Steve

Thanks, I will pay close attention to that when I do the doors.

[wallace18]

I removed the body and did some trimming on the dash for the steering column. I also installed my A/C and Defrost hoses. I use #10x1/2" pan head screws to hold hoses on A/C unit. I also block off center A/C outlet. I just use 2 outside vents. I finished up exhaust after reinstalling body.

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[wallace18]

Started on the passenger door today. I use Erik Hansen's 5-part video as well as the FFR manual. I sort of combine the best of both. Below is a link to video's. First I install the top hinge arm with all the bushings. I use 2 different washers so I get a good tight fit of the arm to the frame bracket. Then I lay a ruler on top of the arm to get a mark for the top of the cutout. I then use Erik's measurements but I do not make them as long as he has them. You can always remove more if you need it down the road. After installing the top arm, I install the door parts and trace a mark for the lower arm, using Erik's measurements again. Do yourself a favor and mock up all the door stuff if you are doing P/W. Don't forget to trim the P/W channel as per the FFR manual. Tomorrow I should bw able to finish up the Passenger door.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/show...a-5-part-video

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[wallace18]

Tom, it just occurred to me that this kit you picked up is around the same vintage as mine - one of the last of the Gen1. As such, some changes were likely already made to the chassis. One of the items that a couple of us have found is that the striker mount location has been welded a couple of inches higher than older Gen1s. When we went to install the striker and get it to engage with the latch we couldn't get the striker low enough and FFR had to fab some different mount plates for us. Just fyi in case you run into the same issue.
Steve

You are correct Steve. I have the same issue. I called FFR and am waiting on Tony to get back to me. All part of the fun, LOL.

[wallace18]

Tony at FFR is shipping me the correct striker plates. It seems the last few Gen-1 chassis had the Gen-2 dip towards the front of the door openings on the frame. They take slightly different plates. No biggie, I have plenty to keep me busy. I did do most everything to the drivers door today that I can . I did just like the passenger side. I will start on trunk tomorrow.

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[wallace18]

Installed the trunk lid today. I used a trick another forum member used to locate the trunk hinge brackets. The double sided foam tape worked great! I taped the lid in place and pushed up the brackets from the bottom. The brackets stayed in place after I removed the side bolts. Then just marked and drilled. I used 6/32 screws for the latch instead of rivets. That way I can easy remove for paint. Lid opens and closes like a charm.

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[wallace18]

Went to install my rear cockpit rear cover and found out the way the previous guy ran the fuel lines made it impossible to install the cover properly. I was able to move the suction fitting on the tank unit enough to get clearance. I also had an issue with the top area of the body where it meets to trunk lid was low. I had this same issue on my last 33 build. I install 2 adjustable hood bumpers I get from the boneyard on the rear top frame bar. This way I can adjust them to get a great alignment of the body and the trunk lid. I did end up getting the cover mocked up. Installed the 1/4-20 rivnuts on the body. Still need to do speaker and roll bar holes.

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[progmgr1]

Got to do some work today. The rest of the Gen-2 hood hinge brackets came in. Got them all mounted. Very stout S/S assembly IMO. I like much better than Gen-1 set-up.

Sorry to dredge up such an old topic, but I just got my Gen 2 hood hinges from FFR and was wondering what changes you had to make to adapt these pieces to the Gen 1 Hot Rod? Is it just a matter of drilling new mounting holes or something more? Thanks, Keith

[wallace18]

Sorry to dredge up such an old topic, but I just got my Gen 2 hood hinges from FFR and was wondering what changes you had to make to adapt these pieces to the Gen 1 Hot Rod? Is it just a matter of drilling new mounting holes or something more? Thanks, Keith

Since I am just building this Gen-1 I have not had to do anything but install the hinges to the radiator brackets. I have not mounted the hood yet. If you already have the Gen-1 hood completely installed , I am not sure what you will have to do. Sorry I can't help at this time.

[RDieck]

I love the jeweled firewall. That's my plan!

[wallace18]

Finished up the rear cockpit cover or waterfall as I call it. Let me share a few tips I learned installing these with the roll bar. First I take a long shaft that I cut a slit in. I put some 60 grit paper in it and clean out the inside roll bar tubes on the frame. Then I clean the outside of the roll bar where it slips in the frame tubes. This makes for an easier time of install and removal. Next I have 2 long boards that have a hole that the roll bar fits through. I put the roll bar thru the boards and into the frame tubes. I then clamp the boards down to the body. I remove the roll bar and temp install the waterfall. Then I set the roll bar thru the boards making sure it is at the proper angle. This allows for easy marking of your hole saw cut. Then I just remove the roll bar and drill out the holes at the correct angle. Perfect hole every time at least for me. Much easier than the manual way, IMO. I mocked up my speaker holes and now can move on to the hood on Monday.

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[FF33rod]

Thanks for the tips, definitely the way to go as compared to the manual...

[Dodgeman]

What size speakers are they? are they in a good location so you can hear the sound system.

[wallace18]

What size speakers are they? are they in a good location so you can hear the sound system.

6" 3-way. Same location I put them in other 33 builds and seems to sound good to me. Most of the music comes from the car though, LOL.

[wallace18]

I was very surprised Fed Ex delivered Marsha's seats yesterday at 11:30 AM. Anyway they are from PRP out of Calif. Marsha wanted seats with headrests and adjustable lumbar. I bought these mainly because they fit the narrow area of the 33 floor. The mounts are very nice, 3" tall and only 11" wide. We put the roof on and both her and I fit fine with this combo. We will have them recovered in leather once she decided on her colors for the car. Adjustable headrests and inflatable lumbar.

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[wallace18]

The updated striker brackets came in the mail the other day. I was able to finish up the passenger door today. I also installed my door solenoids for my shaved doors. Everything went together fine. I use some of the FFR outside door handle parts to do my solenoids. I hope to get drivers side tomorrow.

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[wallace18]

Struggled a bit with the drivers door this morning. I finally won the battle, LOL. Moving on to the lower radiator cowl tomorrow. Taking rest of the day off to help out the wife.

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[tony]

Im so jealous how fast you put it together. I'm 9 months in and just in the middle of bodywork

[FF33rod]

Good luck with the radiator cowl - will be interesting to see how you approach it. Congrats on winning the battle with the driver's door, I lost. In the end both doors were hitting the door sill on the body and FFR is sending 2 Gen2 doors. What solenoids are you using Tom?

Tony, nothing wrong with being in the middle of bodywork after 9 months. That's actually darn quick IMO.

[wallace18]

Good luck with the radiator cowl - will be interesting to see how you approach it. Congrats on winning the battle with the driver's door, I lost. In the end both doors were hitting the door sill on the body and FFR is sending 2 Gen2 doors. What solenoids are you using Tom?

Tony, nothing wrong with being in the middle of bodywork after 9 months. That's actually darn quick IMO.

I buy the Spal unit set from Speedway.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/SPAL-...Kit,42474.html